Many make the claim of “New York-style pizza,” but few can back it up as authentically as Grimaldi’s in the West Village, a new spawn of the original in Brooklyn that pizza fanatics credit with having the best New York pizza in the world. Dallas is part of a Southwest expansion by way of Arizona; a second Texas branch opens in Allen in June. The large bustling room, shiny bar, and unsteady service may not precisely duplicate the claustrophobic coziness of the original, but the pizza’s essentially the same, from the fragrant charred crust to the extra-sweet (too sweet?) tomato sauce. The coal oven, burning ultra-hot, cooked the pizzas in minutes, creating the distinctive personality of the crust: dark spots on the rim, crisp bottom to withstand toppings, even in the thinning center, and an irresistibly toasty flavor that evoked popcorn. There’s not much else on the menu to speak of, other than some oversized salads and decent cannoli. Even the toppings selection was limited. Meat, meat, and meat, basically. No California-style arugula or sliced pears. This is New Yawk. If you’re hung up on the authenticity deal, take your slice and eat it out on the sidewalk. Go on, knock yourself out.

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