When we entered the Preston Forest location of Ziziki’s on a stuffy September night, we were hot, tired, and crabby. Too bad for us the wine we were served was hot, and our server was tired and crabby. The place was maybe half full, and one would think a server would be happy to get a six-top on a slow night. Instead, he slapped down menus and robotically recited the specials. I’m no authority on the fine points of Greek wine, so I asked for a recommendation. Our surly server looked at me like I was a Neolithic idiot. He walked around the table, sighed, and pointed to a Bizios Estate Nemea. Pushing him for a bit of agricultural enlightenment, I asked what grape was used in the wine. “They don’t do it like that over there,” he said. I asked to see the bottle. He brought out a glass and proceeded to take our order. Our food was lovely. All of this Greek/Italian restaurant’s greatest hits—artichoke hummus, Mediterranean salad with lamb, and lamb gyro—satisfied our craving for the distinctive Ziziki flavor profile. However, the wine, which was made from Agiorgitiko grapes (said so right on the bottle I finally commandeered) was so hot that I could have steeped a tea bag in it for 20 seconds and enjoyed a nice cup of wine-soaked chamomile. Which might have been divine with a slice of the baklava ice cream cake, but we got out of there as soon as we’d finished our main courses.

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