VARIATIONS ON A THEME

Manstyle for fall ’87 is a rich, earthy balance of modern simplicity and casual sophistication. Translation? Understated tailoring and easy shapes; uncontrived clothing sewn in elegant, investment-level fabrics and supple leathers, the palette a mix of deep terra firma tones with browns as base. And starring in both the American and European collections this season, a classic white shirt, subject to interpretation: first translation by the designer; final presentation entirely up to you.

Leather lakes the lead, topping off fall’s rich neutrals or stealing the spotlight in dramatic basic black- THIS RAGE: Claude Montana’s dynamic duo in supple black studded by silver done easy with a white cotton turtleneck; at Neiman-Marcus. Richard III armchair by Philippe Starck at ICF. RIGHT: Gianni Versace’s euro-wit: stellar white-on-white oversized shirting tucked into triple-pleated, wool-jersey trousers in deep olive To toss on: a pin-striped taupe wool pullover. At Torie Steele.