Review: Jasper’s

Don’t let the fancy interior fool you. It’s possible to dine here without jeopardizing your car payment.

This comfortably upscale restaurant that focuses on American regional cuisine has matured into a solid, dependable dining destination. Don’t let the fancy interior fool you. It is possible to dine here on gourmet cheeseburgers or pizzas without jeopardizing your car payment. Of course, if you don’t really need your car, the higher-end entrées and finer wines will happily help the repo man. The Maytag blue cheese potato chips—freshly fried chips piled in a basket covered with tiny sprinkles of pungent cheese—are worth a trip. It isn’t a gooey nacho mess, and the chips remain crisp to the end. On a recent packed Thursday night, service from beginning to meal’s end could not have been more professional. Servers were friendly and efficient; every table in the crowded room seemed to be running smoothly. Prime rib cooked on a rotisserie over hickory and oak arrived perfectly thick and medium rare. A lovely, smoky flavor permeated the meat without overpowering the natural flavor. Tender barbecued pork tenderloin was scented with Texas peaches for a sophisticated yet down-home dish. Roasted Yukon potatoes the size of golf balls made a perfectly petite side, but you can’t visit Jasper’s without trying the creamed corn laced with bourbon, a nice touch by executive chef Kent Rathbun.

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