Food&Drink

Zen Mongo Bar and Grill



You will find total peaceful enlightenment at Zen Mongo Bar and Grill, especially If your mantra Is ESPN. Unlike a Buddhist temple, the walls at Zen Mongo are counter feng shui, blasting purple, gold, and blue tones around the room. TV monitors are in every corner, tuned to various sporting events. So happiness here is picking your own dinner ingredients and combining them with your favorite beverage and ballgame. Don’t be put off by the do-it-yourself Mongolian grill concept; cook-by-numbers instructions are painted on the wall and provide the cooking-for-dummies basics on how much oil and sauce to use. Of course, if you know a thing or two about food preparation, then the sky is your limit-you could come In every night and create a meal according to your mood. Perhaps that is why they opened in Addison Circle, an area full of singles too busy to cook at home. You can easily move along the line of goodies-fresh meats, vegetables, oils, and spices-and then hand your creation to the grill master. Less than two minutes later, your masterpiece is handed back on a plate with a scoop of rice. All without missing a touchdown, goal, or penalty, -Nancy Nichols

5064 Addison Circle, 972-233-9362. $. 7

NEWCOMERS



LUNA DE NOCHE



Hang on to your jalapenos, Dallas; it’s going to be a bumpy ride. Just when you thought it was safe to go back to Mi Cocina. Luna tie Noche, the young upstart from Garland, has boldly positioned a second location at the comer of Forest Lane and Central Expressway. And the food here is better than most of the haunts on my “favorites” list.

No other local controversy stirs up as many emotional responses as the Who Serves the Best Tex-Mex in Town debate. We are achy full of experts, loyal as pit bulls to our favorite cheese enchilada. Twenty years ago, 1 had a boyfriend who broke up with me because I wouldn’t switch from my favorite booth at Herrera’s to his at Rosita’s. (1 spotted his car parked there just las) week.) When I eventually snagged a husband, we got married at Herrera’s on Maple Avenue because, 1 reasoned, I’d had more religious experiences there than at any church I’d ever attended.

Well, I belter start looking for another husband, because I’ve found a new church.

On my first visit, I took my longtime eating buddies Eric and Jeannie. Now to understand just how good Luna de Noche is, I have to tell you a little about my friends. They are creatures of habit, and for every one of their food moods, they have a corresponding source. I don’t want to say they are stubborn, but Mia’s would have to burn down before they would eat sour cream chicken enchiladas anyplace else. Just getting them to eat with me at a new restaurant was a big deal. But when Jeannie took a bite of the shredded chicken enchiladas simmering in a delicate sour cream sauce, she was speechless. And that’s saying a lot.

On the other side of the table. Eric was stunned by a platter of spicy enchiladas-a unique creation of shredded beef enchiladas covered with melted cheddar cheese sauce blended with tomatoes, onions, and serrano peppers. Usually the quiet one. Eric had an exclamation after every bite.

Meanwhile, I was only too happy to find that Luna de Noche’s enchiladas verdes were the best I’ve ever had-the spicy green tomatillo sauce spiked with grilled onions smothered two corn tortillas | filled with shredded chicken. The accompa- nying refried beans weren’t heavy with lard. Second time around, we stopped in for appetizers (they serve seven varieties of nachos) and margaritas. A half order of , grilled shrimp quesadillas along with a half order of vegetarian nachos piled high with sautéed mushrooms, onions, and guacamole was more than enough for four. The I Eclipse-a frozen margarita swirled with a touch of Chambord-is a refreshing twist on a favorite drink. And the homemade sangria erased all of my bad Spinada memories. 7927 Forest Ln. 972-233-1800. $-$$. -N.N.



BUCO Dl BEPPO



“You’re kidding, right?” our waitrEss chided us with a mischievous smirk. “No wine with Italian food? That’s like PB without the J. Let me bring you a little burgundy and we can toast our newfound friendship.”

Bold salesmanship like that might go unnoticed at an Amway meeting, but it’s hardly typical procedure at a chain restaurant. Then again, there’s very little about Buco di Beppo that’s typical. Its gregarious, in-your-face bravura might seem pushy if it weren’t for the fun-loving servers and the familial manner in which they go about their business. Bus boys juggle dishes. Cooks stop by to recommend their favorite fare. Before your meal is over, you might even have me whole waitstaff goading you into after-dinner sips of Limoncello, a toxic brew of Everclear, lemon rinds, and sugar. Trust us. It’s tastier than it sounds-that is, what our foggy minds can recall.

The Minneapolis-based chain has grown to 44 restaurants thus far. but this is the first Buco di Beppo in Texas. Across the street from NorthPark Center, the modular, redbrick building with its neon sign and flags seems standard issue. Inside, dining areas are sectioned like small rooms in a house. Buco does the typical madcap-and-zany-memorabilia-as-décor thing that most chain restaurants live by. Bui this time the various photographs of Italian icons such as Sophia Loren. the Pope, and little old Italian grandmothers all craggy and feisty seem inspired. At the very least, they’re fun to browse.

They also serve as a harbinger for Buco’s hearty, marinara-drenched offerings. Southern Italian standards like meat ravioli, chicken parmigiana. and Neapolitan pizzas are served family style. One entree can easily serve four or more diners. If the choices seem uninspired, keep in mind that Buco is striving for authentic immigrant-style cuisine. The recipes might be common, but the ingredients are fresh and the flavors bold and memorable.

Mozzarella caprese proved to be an uncomplicated yet vivid starter. Little in life is better than the simple combination of fresh mozzarella, plump tomatoes, and basil. Buco adds roasted red and yellow peppers for a zesty punch. Garlic bread is plenty pungent. Only the fried calamari disappointed us with its less-than-crispy coating.

Pizzas range from standard pepperoni and sausage to inspired pies like the rich Pizza Bianca; gorgonzola, provolone, mozzarella, romano. and a blanket of sweet red onions. The prosciutto rollato seemed like a hybrid between a pizza and a calzone. Ham, goat cheese, mushrooms, mozzarella, and provolone are rolled up in a pizza crust, baked and sliced into easy-to-eat wedges. Served with a bowl of peppery marinara, the rollato was by far the table favorite.

Pasta choices are Italian favorites like rigatoni with chicken and cheese tortellini, both of which are done well. A couple of selections even surprised. Spaghetti matri-ciana is smoky and sweet with tomatoes, red onions, bacon, and imported pecorino. A hearty choice, the Buca rigatoni country style is packed with Old World flavors like white beans, sausage, broccoli, and tomatoes. It sounds simple but tastes divine.

Likewise. Buco’s entrées are time-tested classics. The staff likes to boast over the chicken cacciatore and for good reason. The bold bird was crispy and plump, its herb-crusted skin crackling with flavor. Served over dense but tasty garlic mashed potatoes, the entrée is so mammoth our table of four could only eat half. Other meaty standouts include a delicately citrus-like veal limone and chicken parmigiana. Buco’s wine List is nothing special, but it’s reasonably priced and appropriate for the kitchen’s simple but savory creations.

If you can save room for dessert. 1 applaud your endurance and urge you to indulge in the cream canoli with Sambuca chocolate sauce or the wonderfully firm-not soggy like most-espresso-laced tiramisu. Other-wise, linger over a cappuccino, chat with your neighbor, and take in the energetic sideshow at other tables. Buco di Beppo’s goals are simple: offer fair prices, entertain as well as serve, and wine and dine its guests until they threaten to burst. After all, isn’t that what family is all about? 7843 Park Ln. 214-361-8462. $$. -Todd Johnson



JEROBOAM



AS WE SIPPED OUR WINE BETWEEN COURSES AT the new downtown stunner Jeroboam, one of my tablemates sighed with contentment. “Now don’t think me some country hick,” he prefaced. “But it’s nice to look out the windows at a restaurant and see skyscrapers and taxi cabs whiz by instead of eating in some shopping center.” We clinked our goblets in agreement.

And who wouldn’t? Certainly downtown Dallas has a decent share of fine restaurants: the French Room, the Pyramid Grill, and the Chaparral Club to name a few. But a true cosmopolitan city-a self-proclaimed destiny Dallas still longs to achieve-demands a thriving central business district, not just more entertainment areas like the West End or Deep Ellum. Happily, the new “urban brasserie” Jeroboam captures this downtown experience with relaxed sophistication and sumptuous. French-inspired fare.

Located on Main Street in the first floor of the renovated Kirby building, Jeroboam is the creation of partners Brandt and Brady Wood, Erick Schlather, and Whit Meyers- the same successful team that birthed the Green Room, one of the city’s most hip and consistent restaurants. But don’t let the term “brasserie” worry you. These days it’s synonymous with “bistro.” referring to a modest restaurant or neighborhood cafe. True to form, Jeroboam is slick and stylish yet comfortable. Polished wood, large, streetside windows, and art deco chandeliers infuse the open and airy restaurant with warmth and light. Separate dining areas include a private room, a large communal table, and a lounge area hidden from bar patrons by heavy, velvet drapes-a hip hangout for late-night drinking and dining.

Of course, even trendy, loft-living urbanités will tell you that style isn’t everything. The proof is on the plate. Executive chef Garreth Dickey-formerly of the Green Room-has fashioned a solid menu that may not be daring but delights with every course. Two patés-a course, country-style spread and a light, black pepper mousse-proved flavorful, unobtrusive starters. Our table’s accolades were saved, however, for the horseradish fried East Coast oysters. Served with béarnaise, chard, and chives, these plump bivalves were sweet and meaty, packing just enough sinus-clearing intensity.

Likewise, the wonderfully nutty, curried cauliflower soup didn’t overwhelm. An arugula. spinach, and Parmesan salad mixed with sweet peppers and dry cured olives was fresh and simple. But the romaine-celery root salad, with its light and ethereal cam-bazola-crème fraiche dressing, was cool, creamy, and the best of the lot.

We were enticed by the fruits de mer section, where shellfish, caviar, and salmon or tuna tartare are available in single servings. The Grande Tasting-a combination of lobster, oysters, crab claws, shrimp, prawns, clams, and salmon and tuna tartare-seemed a bargain at $55. But the main entrées proved too alluring and rightfully so. Trout with almonds was pan sautéed with an almond beurre blanc. The flavor was mild and the presentation delightful. Lemon sage roast chicken was plump and exercised much restraint; the nutmeg mashed potatoes were a solid side choice.

I couldn’t decide between the beef tenderloin Madagascar or the tournedoes of pork loin. My server suggested the beef, saying. “It sounds simple but it’s wonderful. And don’t forget to add the foie gras.” It was a delicious recommendation. The beef was small but sublime, resting in a pool of peppercorn demi. The foie gras topping marked a rich, buttery contrast to the peppery steak. A puree of cinnamon, potato, and butternut squash was a bit heavy but sweet and tasty.

Speaking of heavy. Jeroboam’s wine list isn’t for the weak limbed. Reading like a James Michener opus, the list of French wines is only eight pages long, but the following chapters describe each wine in detail, including notes from critics, wine magazines, and the restaurant’s own sommelier. Though well meaning and informative, it’s a bit overwhelming for wine novices. The list is well chosen, however, and the prices offer something for everyone’s pocketbook.

The only course that disappointed was dessert. A chocolate mousse cake seemed dry and uneventful compared to the rest of Jeroboam’s offerings. But happily, a French press of heady brew delivered and served at the table satisfied our request for coffee. Maybe it was a tad showy. But it was yet another stylish, suave detail to Jeroboam, a restaurant that lends a welcome cosmopolitan Hare to the dark streets of downtown Dallas. 1509 Main St., 214-748-7226. $$. -T.J.



ASIAN FUSION



D BEST Abacus. Kent Rathbun’s kitchen is a stage; dinner is a show. Lobster shooters are served sake-style-six cups contain a chunk of lobster tossed back with a shot of coconut milk, red curry, and sake. Entrées of pan-seared wall-eyed pike with scallion whipped potatoes and pork loin with pumpkin risotto are inspired meat and mash variations. Dinner only. 4511 McKinney Ave. 214-559-3111. $$$.



Citizen. Tuna tartare served on the base of an upside-down martini glass and sake served in wooden boxes may be as tricky as the décor, but somehow it all works. A stunningly simple slab of black cod is served solo on a banana leaf, a blond miso anchoring the ethereal fish. And Kobe beef, grilled and sliced, is the ultimate extravagance at around $15 an ounce. 3858 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-522-7253. $$$.



Jimmy Lu’s. The menu is full of Americanized Asian dishes thai are hit and miss. If you avoid the cinnamon beef and stick with the delicious black pepper shrimp. Kung Pao shrimp, and chicken in red curry sauce, you’ll be happy. Mango margaritas are a definite must. 17727 Dallas Pkwy. @ Trinity Mills Rd. 972-852-8888. $$.



D BEST Liberty. Annie Wong, the mother of Thai food in Dallas, still owns three all-Thai restaurants, but Liberty is where her imagination is freed. Romantically and softly lit, with beaded candleshades on each table and bamboo birdcages animated with twinkling Christmas lights, the brightly lit kitchen makes Liberty into real dinner theater, and Wong is the star. What makes her food different is what makes any chef’s food special: imagination. 5631 Alta Ave. 214-887-8795. $$.



BAKERY/SANDWICHES



Celebrity Cafe & Bakery. AI I of the locations share the same name, but different owners operate them, so the hours and offerings vary. The sandwiches are always reliable-egg salad is spiked with mustard, and the Santa Barbara includes two pieces of marble rye stuffed with turkey, avocado, bacon, lettuce, and Monterrey Jack cheese. The bakery case is crammed with cookies, cakes (Coca-Cola fudge!), sweet breads, and pies. 2418 Fairmount St. @ McKinney Ave. 214-922-9866. $. Multiple locations.



Highland Park Pharmacy. We can only describe the Pharmacy atmosphere as reassuring. Some people love the Palm Beach sandwich (pimento cheese to you) or the tuna salad with cherry cokes. For us, the grilled cheese is the winner- American slices melted to glue, the bread buttery and crisp. Chips are extra; sodas and milkshakes are priceless. Lunch only. 3229 Knox St. 214-521-2126.$.



Strut’s Famous Sandwiches. A sandwich can be just a sandwich, but at Street’s it’s more like a meal. Fresh ingredients are key: turkeys. roasts, and desserts are baked on the spot. As for the sides, Chinese sesame noodles, cole slaw, and potato salad are fine filler. But you might skip those and go straight from your sandwich to the rum cake. 3848 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-526-2505. Multiple locations. $.



Wild About Harry’s. Harry’s serves real Chicago dogs, topped with onions, mustard, peppers, and the authentic neon-green relish-he also serves them smothered with Texas chili, sauerkraut, and pretty much everything else. You have to have custard after a Harry’s dog-it’s smoother than crème brulée, and every day there’s a different selection of flavors. This is the kind of place that gives you hope for American culture. 3113 Knox St. 214-520-3113. Multiple locations. $.

BARBEQUE



The Original Porkie’s Barbeque. Beef brisket is lean, with plenty of smoky flavor, and the hot links, pork ribs, and chicken are standouts as well. Even the crispy catfish is moist and grease free. But the po’ boy sandwich elevates Porkie’s into the pulled-pork pantheon of barbeque gods. 65 15 E. Northwest Hwy. @ Abrams Rd. 214-987-0424. $.



D BEST Peggy Sue Barbecue. Though Sonny Bryan’s still wins in the beef sandwich category-the definitive dish when you’re talking Texas barbeque-Peggy Sue’s beats Sonny’s by a rib in meats, side dishes, and sauces. And the smoked chicken quesadillas alone are worth a trip. A new favorite is brisket fajitas-soft flour tortillas filled with grilled barbequed brisket, onions, and green peppers. 6600 Snider Plaza. 214-987-9188.$.



Sammy’s Barbecue. Barbeque for the banking crowd at bankers’ hours. Everyday at lunch, Sammy’s is full of white-collar types, ties thrown over their shoulders, chowing on great red-stripe brisket, ribs, and homemade Mom-style pie. No, really-Sammy’s is a family-run enterprise, and all the Pritchards pitch in. 2126 Leonard St. 214-880-9064. $.



Sonny Bryan’s, For 40 years, Sonny Bryan’s meaty ribs, moist brisket, and classic barbeque sauce have been the standard by which all other Dallas barbeque is judged. For the classic barbeque experience, return to the original Inwood Road joint, sit on the hood of your car. and gnaw on tender smoked ribs, chopped beef, and giant onion rings. 2202 Inwood Rd. 214-357-7120. Multiple locations. $.



BURGERS



Angry Dog. The menu is standard bar cuisine, including some great burgers, nachos, and sandwiches, but it extends to include some inspiring options. The Angry Dog-a grilled. all-beef hoi dog split and served open-faced, covered with grilled onions, chili, and cheese-is truly fantastic and a bargain at $4.50, For serious beer drinkers, there are 120 beers to choose from. 2726 Commerce St. 214-741-4406.$.



D BEST The Prince of Hamburgers. The crispy-edged, toasty bun. the slim but beefy-tasting, just-cooked patty, and the simple but fresh garnitures combine to make the quintessential American sandwich. Prince sticks to the classic accompaniments: thick shakes, incredibly frosty root beer, fries, and fabulous onion rings, all brought to you by a real live person. 5200 Lemmon Ave. 214-526-9081.$.



Purple Cow. This burger-and-shake diner uses Blue Bell ice cream and features 10 flavors of milkshakes, including the signature Purple Cow and the Peanut Butter and Jelly. The Blue-Cheeseburger is a great variation on standard soda-shop fare, dripping with rich, creamy blue cheese. But the reason we’ll go back is the grilled Palm Beach-a hot pimento cheese sandwich that oozes down your arms. It’s worth the price of the dry cleaning bill. 110 Preston Royal Village. 214-373-0037; 5934 Royal Ln. Ste. 110. 214-373-0037.$.

Snuffer’s. The burgers and frosty brew are a sensory way-back machine for those who thought that college was the prime of their life. They probably were, if you continue to eat things like Snuffer’s cheese fries (a basket of deep-fried strips, covered in gloriously greasy cheese) because you can’t last long if you eat this way often. 3526 Greenville Ave. 214-826-6850; 14910 Midway Rd., Addison. 972-991-8811. $.



Texas Hamburgers. This Texas kitsch joint is filled with stuffed armadillos. Texas flags, cowboy memorabilia, good of boys, and Armani-clad Design Center sophisticates. Besides great half- and third-pound burgers accompanied by fresh fixings, this place serves some great meat-loaf with a tasty tomato sauce laden with celery, onions, and peppers. 1606 Market Center Blvd. 214-747-2222.$.



CHINESE

Arc-En-Ciel. The kitchen employs separate cooks for the Chinese and Vietnamese fare, but everyone really goes there to eat Vietnamese. We ordered our last meal in a leisurely way, a few dishes at a time. Pristine Imperial rolls: shrimp pounded and molded on sugarcane; grilled pork to roll in rice paper with rice noodles, cilantro, mint, lettuce, and sprouts-each dish delightful, fresh, excellent. 3555 W. Walnut St., Garland. 972-272-2188.$-$$.

D BEST Jenny No’s Szechwan Pavilion. Alter 20 years of trying, Jenny Ho s is serving some of the best Chinese in town. We never eat here (or takeout) without a plate of twice-cooked pork-paper thin squares of pork stir-fried in black bean sauce with thick cuts of carrots and crisp vegetables. If you are lucky enough to live nearby, they’ll deliver, 8411 Preston Rd. 214-368-4303. $-$$.



Peking Duck. Most of the good Cantonese and northern Taiwan-influenced kitchens in town disappeared when the Szechwan craze swept Dallas in the mid-’70s. Bui classical Mandarin is alive and well here with three “tastes” of authentic Peking duck dinners offered every night. 4043 Trinity Mills Rd. @ Midway Rd. 972-307-8638. $$.



Royal China. Royal China serves the same neighborhood clientele that has been faithfully eating here since Buck Kao and his family opened the place in 1947. Appetizers are still in peak performance, including a wonderful hot and sour soup and perfectly steamed pan-fried pork dumplings. But the General’s Chicken tends to look and taste like chicken McNuggets in a sweet orange sauce. 201 Preston Royal Village. 214-361-1771. $-$$.



Uncle Tai’s. The kitchen never fusses when asked to prepare old-time favorites no longer on the menu. Seafood lovers will swoon over Sa-Chai jumbo shrimp with baby corn in a spicy tea-infused sauce. And the Hunan Chicken is lightly stir-fried in the best black bean sauce in Dallas. Service can be flaky or efficient. In the Galleria, 13350 Dallas Pkwy, @ LBJ Fwy. 972-934-9998. $$$.



DELI



Dell News. For most of us, the closest we come to Russian cuisine is a vodka martini, but whenever we get the urge tor a bowl of borscht and a few Siberian pelmenis, we’re off to Deli News. A favorite hangout for the small but dedicated Russian community in Dallas. the menu offers classic versions of shashlik mignon (grilled steak chunks skewered with garlic potato wedges and veggies) and pelme-nis (beef dumplings!. There is also an extensive menu with oversized sandwiches. 4805 Frankford Rd. 972-733-3354. $.



Gilbert’s. All you Yankees pining for the comforts of the Carnegie Deli, stop whining. The Cilbert family has been dishing out potato knishes. stuffed derma, and kasha varnishkas as good as any in the Big Apple for more than a decade. They also have a decent plate of spaghetti and meatballs for the shiksa in your group. 11661 Preston Rd, 214-373-3333.$.



ECLECTIC

Bistro A. Peripatetic chef Avner Samuel’s latest venture is his best yet, and better yet. Bistro A looks like it’s going to be around awhile. Dishes with Middle Eastern influences are especially good, but the chef does equally well with simple steak fries, and casserole-roasted chicken could be the best bird in town. Beware of spotty service. 6815 Snider Plaza. 214-373-9911.$$-$$$.



Bread Winners. Three different menus a day are all imaginative. But the buttermilk pan-fried I chicken breast with mashed potatoes and cream gravy is the real winner-lightly battered and fried fork-tender chicken over leek mashed potatoes and cream gravy so good it makes the bland bread better. 3301 McKinney Ave. 214-754-4940.$-$$.



Genghis Grill. You get a stainless steel bowl from I the stack and choose your ingredients from a I cafeteria line on ice: bins of meat and vegetables, along with your choice of oils and seasonings. Then you give your bowl to the grill-master, who losses it on a giant round griddle, cooks it quick, then serves it back to you in the bowl. And Genghis Grill provides basic recipes for people who don’t know the difference between tamarind and teriyaki. 1915 Greenville Ave. 214-841-9990; 4201 Belt Line Rd @ Midway Rd.. Addison. 972-503-5995. $-$$.



The Grape. Whether you’re hoping for a marriage proposal or looking to get lucky, the chances of a “yes” are practically assured in this dark and romaniic dining room. The seductive food doesn’t hurl either-the mushroom soup still thrills and grilled halibut is served with a dreamy creamed rice. As always, the wine is divine. 2808 Greenville Ave. 214-828-1981.$$.



D BEST The Green Room. Undoubtedly the grooviest chef and dining room in town. Marc Cassel’s “Collision Cuisine” menu includes a knockout prime strip steak served with lemon-horseradish potatoes and a delicate coconut-steamed rainbow trout. Don’t be fooled by the young staff; they know the menu and wine list and service is hip and polished. 2715 Elm St. 214-748-7666. $$-$$$.



Sipango. Still a sate haven for the taut and trendy money crowd, but the kitchen has slipped. Soggy crab cakes, listless pizza, and an anemic tomato and mozzarella salad don’t work no matter how good the music is thai drifts in from the bar. However, we found the sea bass with creamy sweet roasted red pepper risotto more than passable. 4513 Travis St. 214-522-7684.$$,



St Pete’s Dancing Marin. The marlin doesn’t mean seafood; it’s just a clue thai the owner likes to fish. The only seafood here is the dancing tuna sandwich-mostly, the food is simply designed to go with your beer. Beware the Diablo Tempestuous, pasta doused in fiery jalapeno-tomato sauce. It’s so hot it comes with a chaser of chocolate milk. 2730 Commerce St. 214-698-1511. $-$$.

Soho. The imaginative one-world-on-a-plate concept isn’t as complicated as it sounds. The mahi-mahi with a light ginger and lemongrass crust, grilled to tender, bedded on nutty red wehani rice, and encircled with a soy-lemon sauce is the dish that would lure us back to pseudo-Soho. An armagnac poached pear with toasted walnut and rice mascarpone cheese is simple elegance done well. 5290 Belt Line Rd., Addison. 972-490-8686. $$.



D BEST Thomas Avenue Beverage Company.TABC isn’t a beer and burger pub. although they do serve both. Chef Kerry Kelly has elevated the menu to the level other fine restaurants in town by rotating creative versions of Southwestern. Cuban, and Italian with any other cuisine that fits his mood. The tikka chicken is a great rendition of the Indian classic. 2901 Thomas Ave. 214-979-0452.$$.



FRENCH/CONTINENTAL



Addison Cafe. It’s called “Le French Bistro,” but in reality. Addison Cafe is a restaurant serving classically prepared French and New American dishes, which has kept them in business for 15 years. Tournedos of beef are cooked medium-rare and served in a textbook bordelaise sauce. And dark chocolate mousse is worth every hip-hugging calorie. 5290 Bell Line Rd.@ Montfort Dr.. Ste. 108. Addison. 972-991-8824. $$-$$$.



French Room. This is the prettiest dining room in Dallas. It’s only natural to expect perfect food that matches the fairy-tale room. Sweetbread schnitzel is perfect, placed on a bed of asparagus ragout. Lamb ribeye is precisely matched with rosemary goat cheese polenta and tomato confit with basil, combining every Mediterranean high note in a single dish. Dinner only. Hotel Adolphus. 1321 Commerce St. 214-742-8200. $$$.



Hofstetter’s Sparge! Cafe. Kala and Norbert Gregor gave their popular German eatery, Hofstetter’s. a new name and menu. Most of their trademark Germanic fare has been replaced by sassy Euro-Continental classics like salmon with a delicate dill beurre blanc sauce. However, diehards can still feast on their signature schnitzel, bratwurst. spaetzle. and, of course, the asparagus. 4326 Lovers Ln. 214-368-3002.$$.



Jennivine. The charming old house is as popular a pop-the-question romantic spot as ever. Wood floors, quaint bar candles, flowers, and fine food are the setting for a nice selection of wines by the glass. The tilapia is a perfectly tender filet on a layer of lemony orzo with red cabbage and a tablespoon of sweet potatoes. And the chocolate mousse here is classic-bittersweet, firm, and lopped with fresh whipped cream. 360.’> McKinney Ave. 214-528-6010. $$.



D BEST L’Ancestral. All the entrées are prepared with great precision and care-steak au poivre is flamed with cognac.Grilled lamb chops gently rolled in herbes de Provence melt easily off the bone and onto the fork. Service can be slow at peak hours, but they are always helpful and gracious. 4514 Travis St. 214-528-1081.$$.



Lola. This quaint Victorian home that until recently housed Barclays continues in the tradition of fine Continental fare with a user-friendly, fixed-price menu. Excellent sautéed foie gras and wild mushroom soup. Some of chef Jamie Sanford’s concoctions sound bizarre-mahi-mahi rubbed with cumin served with black beans and grapefruit butter sauce- but we’ve never been disappointed with the end result. Save room for dessert. 2917 Fairmount St. 214-855-0700. $$-$$$.



Old Warsaw. Hanging on to a reputation as one of Dallas’ oldest elite restaurants is tough, but La Vielle Varsovie is valiant. It takes effort to find much fault with the food-from appetizers to dessert, the meal is an anachronistic treat. Servers, however, are only acceptably pleasant. 2610 Maple Ave. 214-528-0032. $$$.



Paris Bistrot. Paris Bistrot spills out onto McKinney like a sidewalk cafe in Paris. We’re infatuated with the classic duck confit, coarse paté campagne, delicately julienned and turned vegetables, and lamb shank with rich creamy risotto. Chocolate mousse is the real thing. 2533 McKinney Ave. 214-720-0225. $$.



The Pyramid Grill. The name and the chef have changed, hut the glorious dining experience has been maintained. Maryland crab cakes with Thai sauce and tender escargot resting in garlic butter are perfect starters. We swooned over a subtle, buttery, and perfectly cooked veal chop. Thankfully, the mid-course sorbets in ice-sculpted swans are still there, as is the fluffy Grand Marnier souffle. Fairmont Hotel. 1717 North Akard St. 214-720-2020. $$$.



St. Martin’s. St. Martin’s is doing its best to keep romantic dining alive in Dallas. The service is impressive, and while the food isn’t flashy, the French-American fare is brilliant. Chateaubriand is served as a single portion and the hollandaise is flawless. 3020 Greenville Ave. 214-826-0940. $$.



Voltaire. All the elements of line dining have been taken to surreal extremes. The wine list is 15,000 strong. An expanded menu offers sophisticated seafood, poultry, meat, and pasta selections, including a lovely lobster harissa with garlic mashed potatoes, grilled asparagus. and a warm Thai-scented sauce. 5150 Keller Springs Rd. @ Dallas North Tollway. 972-239-8988. $$$.



We/Oui. American food with a French accent in a high-energy (read: loud) dining room. Below the din. the paté is authentic and the desserts are charming, but in between, the canard a l’orange and the wine list are only average. 100 Crescent Court. 214-220-3990. $$.



GERMAN



D BEST Kuby’s. Kuby ’s has been serving the best wurst in town since [961. There is also a bakery and German convenience store, but the place really rocks on the weekends when they stay open for dinner, Waitresses are festooned in colorful dresses and deliver house specialties like schnitzel plates and brats on a bun to the sounds of a live oompah band. 6601 Snider Plaza. 214-363-2231.$.



Rhinehouse. The atmosphere is bare-bones German, but the food is worth a drive to McKinney. Silky spaetzle.ja, Crispy schnitzel. ach ja. Homemade marinated herring, ach gott. ja! They have imported beers on tap. including a double bock, and a deli case crammed with traditional German sausages. 1330 N. McDonald St.. McKinney. 972-562-0124. $$.

GOURMET TO GO



City Cafe To Go. Docs anybody cook from scratch anymore? According to the servers at City Cafe To Go. most people don’t even know how to use a regular oven to reheat the precooked food they buy there. They all want microwave instructions. But for those of you who can handle it. most of the dishes (for instance, a thickly sliced rare leg of lamb with charred, sun-dried tomatoes) are tasty and reheat beautifully. 5757 Lovers Ln. 214-351-3366. $-$$.



City Harvest. We can always count on the infamous King Ranch Casserole-:a comforting Mend of chicken, cheese and chilies-to lake the edge off of a hard day at the office. You can dine in or take out from a list of other old favorites including Frito pie and Mom’s meal-loaf. 939 N, Edgefield Ave. 214-943-2650. $.



Eatzi’s. Eatzi’s definitely lives up to its circus hype, Hear the strains of opera and waltz through the crowds collecting the already cooked makings of a gourmet dinner–down to the imported beer, fresh bread, and flowers. Or choose salads or sandwiches made to order. Checkout lines are infamously long. 3403 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-526-1515. $.



Marty’s Cafe TuGogh. Marty’s latest version of its wine bar has changed everything hut the name. And the food-there was never a prob-lem with that. At night, when the blond, light-filled Cafe TuGogh features full table service, it’s on its way to becoming one of the best little bistros in town. 3316 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-526-4070. $-$$.



Sigel’s Fresh Market. Besides the stellar cheese counter, dozens of kinds of imported pasta, great selection of olive oils, and other gourmet comestibles, the little deli adjoining Sigel’s liquor store sells perhaps the best roast chicken to go in Dallas. And it’s a deal. too. 15003 Inwood Rd. 972-387-9804. $.



GREEK

Kostas Cafe. If you can’t get to Greece anytime soon, sample the saganaki at Kostas. The fried kasseri cheese soaked in brandy comes to the table Banting and is ceremoniously doused with fresh lemon juice and a loud “Opa!” All the classics-spanakopita, moussaka, and sou-vlaki-are authentically prepared, and the family atmosphere makes eating off your neighbor’s plate seem like a warm gesture. 4914 Greenville Ave. 214-987-3225.$$.



Z Cafe. Pizza topped with gyro meat, feta, tomatoes, and olives and the potato bails are a legacy of the former Little Gus. Breakfast Omelettes take on the flavor of the neighborhood when they’re filled with chorizo, chili, and cheddar. The quintessential greasy spoon burger is a masterpiece topped with feta. grilled onions, and jalapenos. Breakfast and lunch only. 1924 Henderson Ave. 2 3 4-821 -0991.$.

D BEST Ziziki’s. You can hardly get a prime-time table at this contemporary Greek cafe, and they don’t take reservations, except lor large parties. But the herbed lamb souvlaki. folded in thick warm pita and sauced with tart yogurt, is worth a watt. Ziziki’s menu has featured the s;tme idiosyncratic version of Mediterranean food since it opened-it’s a good thing some things don’t change. 4514 Travis St.. Ste. 122. 214-521-2233; 15707 Coit Rd.. Ste. A. 972-991-4433 $$.



HOME COOKING



Celebration. Bring your appetite to this long-lime mecca for Dallas home-cooking purists. Entrées run the gamut from broiled fresh fish to pot roast to fried chicken, all accompanied by an endless supply of vegetables, Don’t worry if your entree seems small-you can reorder as often as you wish. 4503 W. Lovers Ln. 214-351-5681.$-$$.



Natalie’s. It’s the ultimate neighborhood spot: I “he portions are large: the prices are small. The meatloaf is a popular choice: For $7.95 you get an X-by-3-inch slab of finely ground meal with a light tomato sauce on lop. mixed crisp steamed vegetables, and a hunk of mashed potatoes. But the secret to Natalie’s success is the cinnamon rolls. We always order extra to take home for the next morning. 5944 Royal Ln. 214-739-0362. $.

INDIAN



India Palace. India Palace has long been considered one the best Indian restaurants in town. Recently merged with Bombay Cricket Club, we found the luster lacking. Service was unhelpful, so it was fortunate we knew what we wanted and it was easy-biryani, fragrant and studded with fruits, nuts, and lumb- and delicious. The Vegetable Bhojan was an institutional presentation but tasted good. 128]7 Preston Rd. 972-392-0190. $$.



Madras Pavilion. The unforgettable aromas of jasmine, coriander, and turmeric greet you at the door. Lunch is an Indian food orgy buffet that includes unusual (for Dallas) Northern Indian specialties-a bargain at 56.99. In the evening, you can choose from an extensive menu that includes a large list of dosai (thin rice crêpes with vegetarian fillings) and vadas (crunchy lentil cakes). Cold raita. fresh coriander leaves, salads of chopped carrots, cucumber, and onions, are just a few of the refreshing condiments supplied to ease the heat. 101 S. Coil @ Belt Line Rd.. Dal Rich Shopping Center. 972-671-3672. $-$$.



ITALIAN



Alfonso’s. It you don’t live in East Dallas, it’s time to load the kids in the car and take a round trip for dinner. Basic Italian favorites are cooked the old-fashioned way-heavy on the garlic and butter. Chicken Francese and the hot homemade garlic (and we mean garlic) rolls are alone worth the trip. Luke Highland Village, 718 N, Buckner Blvd. @ Northcliff Dr. 214-327-7777.$.



Avanti. Avanti has maintained the feel of a small, intimate neighborhood cafe in spite of every obstacle. The fried calamari with tomato and basil sauce is greaseless. and the crunchy batter is light and tasty. We’re slightly disappointed with the grilled veal medallions, hut the Italian sausage seasoned with lots of fennel and sauléed with onions and bell peppers on top of angel hair pasta covered in a light marinara is gutsier. 2720 McKinney Ave. 214-871-4955. $$.



Cafe Expresse. Owner Dieter Paul offers an uncomplicated list of Italian specialties- Pastas and sauces are mix and match, and the same goes for the thin crusty individual pizzas. The kitchen also knocks out above average veal scaloppini with lemon butler and capers and the nightly specials (maybe a pecan-crusted flounder) never disappoint. 6135 Luther Ln. 214-361-6984.$$.



Ferrari’s Italian Villa. One of the few Italian restaurants where servers actually speak Italian. Every meal begins with a complimentary focaccia from the wood-burning pizza oven, and the glistening marinara sauce on the side is divine. Cannelloni Florentina is a thick roll of roasted veal, Parmesan, and roasted vegetables served in an authentic creamy tomato sauce. 14831 Midway Rd., Addison. 972-980-9898. $$.



Isola Gozo. The parking lot just doesn’t help the ambience. Bui the best you can hope for from a restaurant in NorthPark is some retail compatibility. Thin-crusted pizza is always me star-a perfectly proportioned layering of bread and topping, just held together with cheese, The fare at Isola Gozo is sophisticated and good and deserves a better setting. NorthPark Center, Park La @ Central Expwy. 214-691 -0488. $$.



D BEST Mi Piaci. Housemade is a term Mi Piaci doesn’t take lightly–the kitchen makes its own pastas and cures its own meats. Every other ingredient is either imported or hand-picked. A bowl of the Tuscan classic ribollita could be enough for a meal. Bu( don’t neglect the spicy penne arrabbiata. the three thin scallops of veal perched on a pile of portobello mushrooms, or the asparagus and cheese tortelli-ni with a fragile Marsala sauce. 14854 Montfort Dr. 972-934-8424. $$-$$$.



D BEST Modo Mio. Chef owner Rino Brigliadori’s small traditional rustic Italian menu is consistently dependable. starting with the asparagus, eggplant, and goat cheese antipasto and finishing with the softly sweetened sorbets. In between we have always been happy ordering gnocchi Modo Mio. but special sea bass in tomato broth is an offering we will never refuse. Dinner only. 18352 Dallas Pkwy. 972-671-6636. $$.



Nero’s. Chef Luigi Lama has been serving pink garlic bread and Caesar salad for 15 years, but we prefer his Linguinie Fra Diavlo-a steaming plate of sea scallops, gulf shrimp, and mushrooms in a spicy marinara sauce. Of course, the regular pasta dishes are above average, and his homemade white chocolate ice cream has customers driving long distances just for dessert. Dinner only. 2104 Greenville Ave. 214-826-6376. $$.



Patrizio. Move over, Campisi’s. Patrizio’s signature crab claws just took first place in (he crab claws competition. Soft and delicate, they slip off the exoskeleton and melt in your mouth like, well, butter. Oh, yes-you should eat dinner, too: There’s the chicken and mushroom lasagna (good, but rich) and the baked ziti (we had leftovers for breakfast). The prices aren’t what you’d expect with Escada and Calvin Klein just a kiss away. Highland Park Village. Mockingbird Ln. @ Preston Rd. 214-522-7878: 1900 Preston Rd.. Ste. 343, Piano. 972-964-2200.$$.



Pavarotti’s. Pavarotti’s is one of the few places in North Dallas where parents can escape for a quick, semi-romantic meal. The baked lasagna is a delightful casserole layered with noodles, meat, and cheese that somehow remains light. The linguine Pavarotti loaded with shrimp and chicken sautéed in a garlic white wine sauce is all the reason we need to return. 6757 Arapaho Rd. 972-991-2828.$$.



Raneri’s. Finally, Valley Ranch gets a real Italian restaurant. While the interior is a trip back to a senior prom with ivy-covered trellises and twinkle lights, the food is a refreshing break from the high-dollar trendy spots invading the area. Gumberi a la Raneri is a wonderful plate of shrimp wrapped with bacon and served with a wonderful orange liqueur sauce and poached orange slices. 8604 N. MacArthur Blvd..R Valley Ranch Pkwy., Irving. 214-574-7655.$$.



Rodolfo’s. American I950s-style Italian food is the order of the day–hefty lasagna and only average chicken parmigiana. We’ve never had the nerve to try anything from the “pasta with berries” section of the menu: we just stick to the angel hair pasta with spinach balls. The dumplings of ricotta and spinach scented with nutmeg make a wonderful light meal. 5956 Royal Ln. @ Preston Rd. 214-368-5039. $$.



Salve. Like sister restaurant Mi Piaci, home-style Tuscan is the backbone of Salve. Casual all-day dining in the bar features pizza, cal* zones, and panini. In the evenings, the extensive menu in the elegant dining room is the perfect opportunity for a sophisticated Italian feast. Brodetta Adriatica. a pile of clams, mussels, shrimp, and lobster is as fresh as a Mediterranean breeze perfumed with saffron. 2120 McKinney Ave. 214-220-0070. $$-$$$.



Terilli’s. A Lower Greenville fixture. Terilli’s packs in a semi-sophisticated crowd for such-as-it-is jazz, and an eclectic menu featuring the signature item with the silly name: “Italcho’s” (crisp chips of pizza dough topped with mozzarella and a choice of toppings). Food ranges from pretty good to so-so, hut devotees find thai Terilli’s is more than the sum of its parts. 2815 Greenville Ave. 214-827-3993.$$.



JAPANESE

Chaya Sushi. The tuna roll is lean, deep red, and fresh. From the robata bar. try the chargrilled sirloin-thinly sliced, bile-sized morsels of rare tenderloin dipped in ponzu sauce. Gulf shrimp, sautéed in a light ginger sauce, is fragrant and firm. And our all-time favorite dish-simple to make, but hard to make well–is the miso soup. We believe this hot, nourishing version has healing properties. 101 Preston Royal Shopping Center. 214-361-0220. $$.



Deep Sushi. Traditional Japanese etiquette takes a back seat to a more laid-back, hip style of service and ambience. The edamame was excellent and topped with just the right amount of shaved salt. But the daikon was missing from the agedashi tofu, and the spice promised in the spicy octopus and seaweed salad was MIA. 2624 Elm St, 214-651-1177. $$-$$$.



Rock &. Roll Sushi. Rock V roll is here to stay, and obviously, so is sushi. Rock & Roll Sushi’s California concept is part fish, part gimmick. Around the circular bar is a stream with a flotilla of lacquered boats bearing sushi. The things we like best are the least traditional, and at lunch, the bento boxes are a good deal. 6109B Berkshire Ln. 214-987-1966$$-$$$.



Royal Tokyo. It’s a hibachi steak room, it’s a sushi bar (Dallas’ first), and it’s a show palace. You can leave your shoes at the door and eat in one of their Tamati Rooms or sit around grill tables where Japanese chefs perform slice and dice like Samurai warriors. It’s a great way to get kids to eat their vegetables. 7525 Greenville Ave. 214-368-3304. $$.



Tei Tei. We still haven’t tasted the kobe beef (which comes from cattle fed with beer and massaged with sake), but Tei Tei is a destination restaurant anyway. The “kinki fish” is a whole fish (snapper) slashed to the bone, so the flesh lifts out easily with chopsticks. To eat the soft-shell crab, abandon the Eastern eating utensils and resort to the God-given: lingers. Dinner only. 2906 N. Henderson Ave. 214-828-2400. $$-$$$.



Teppo. Impeccable sushi and sashimi geared toward the advanced sushi addict. Live scallops, clams, and the Limoge-like savagari (tiny deep-fried crabs) satisfy a soulful need for great art and great food. For a courageous finish, try the quail egg shooters-a sake glass filled with fish roe, chives, lime, two quail eggs, and house-made ponzu sauce. Dinner only. 2014 Greenville Ave. 214-826-8989. $$-$$$.



D REVISITS Yumeya Sushi Bistro. What a difference a year can make. Last fall, we sang Yumeya’s praises from the pagoda tops. Now, we merely hum them, though the tune is still pleasant. Co-owner/chef Keiichi Nagano still serves some of the freshest fish in town, and his small, unassuming cafe is a tranquil Japanese respite amid the towering monoliths of beef that dominate most of Far North Dallas. But service is now spotty. For the novice, sushi is a delicious adventure that warrants strong navigation and salesmanship from servers. Though efficient, our waitress seemed disinterested and couldn’t answer most of our questions. Some of Yumeya’s offerings also lacked a certain polish. Toro sashimi-tuna stomach muscle-was as rich and buttery as we remembered, but the jalapeho rolls were too tame and easily fell apart. Luckily, jumbo clam, sea eel, and Spanish mackerel were all generous, fresh-tasting portions. Yumeya also doubles as a robata bar-grilled seafood and meat-and offers fine traditional Japanese fare like atsuage tofu (fried tofu topped with scallions and seaweed) and lotus root kimpira. The seafood salad special was an enormous bowl of white fish, clams, scallops, and crab marinated in a creamy vinaigrette and sesame soy sauce. The light dish was bracing and piquant-an instant table favorite. But beware the Japanese Viagra cocktail: yam noodles, ponzu sauce, and pureed sea urchin served in a martini glass. The name might be tempting, but as our waitress warned us. “It isn’t for the squeamish.” She was wrong. This mushy, supposed “delicacy” isn’t for anyone. Though it left a foul taste in our mouths, we still have high hopes for Yumeya’s return to greatness. 17721 Dallas Pkwy., Ste. 100,972-407-1373. $$. -T.J.



LATIN AMERICAN

Caribbean Grill. Jumbo shrimp marinated in coconut milk, lightly fried and rolled in coconut shreds is one of the best appetizers we’ve had all year. Jerk chicken is moist inside, with a thin crusty coating of spices, and the dipping sauce is a killer honey-mustard concoction spiced with hot relish (chow) from Trinidad. Stay busy with their large selection of bottled hot sauces and soothe your burning tongues with homemade Key lime pie. 3068 Forest Ln. 972-241-9113. $-$$.



Fogo de Chao. This is not a place for the faint of heart. Or the not-very-hungry. Once you’ve signaled “go” by turning your ordering chip from red to green, you are immediately bar-raged by gaucho-clad waiters waving huge skewers of assorted meats. The Lombo–pork loin crusted with parmesan-can be dry, but the Frallinha (bottom sirloin) is tender, and the Picanha (rump steak with lois of garlic) will make you send the other waiters away. The centerpiece of the restaurant is the beautiful salad bar. 4300 Belt Line Rd.. Addison. 972-503-7300. $$.



Gloria’s. Gloria’s was serving pupusas and other exotic Salvadorian and Mexican dishes before the hot Latin craze was cool. Discover the unique tastes with Gloria’s Super Sampler, starring a tamale stuffed with chicken wrapped and steamed in a fresh banana leaf. The chocolate flan coated in caramel should be on every menu in town. 3715 Greenville Ave. 214-874-0088. $-$$. Multiple locations.



Samba Room. It’s impossible not to feel transported to an exotic Havana night at the Samba Room. Arepas-beef marinated in sherry, cooked with onion and peppers, then shredded into a mound and surrounded by triangles of griddled sweet com cakes topped with a slight drizzle of sour cream-is superb. A silver martini shaker filled with long, thin strips of yuca frita- fried yuca seasoned with lime and garlic-makes French fries obsolete. Dinner only. 4514 Travis St. 214-522-4137. $$.



Texas de Brazil. No need for menus here-it’s one price fits all. Skewer-swagging waiters slice varied cuts of slow-roasted (and extremely flavorful ) filet, picanha. rack of lamb, top sirloin, and pork loin from their swords right onto your plate. The salad bar features 30 hefty items besides salad, including tabbouleh and marinated mushrooms, and the required feijoa-da (the national dish of Brazil). 15101 Addison Rd., Addison. 972-385-1000; 2727 Cedar Springs Rd. 214-720-1414. $$$.

MEDITERRANEAN



Avanti Euro Bistro. The menu at this sexy spot circles the Mediterranean Sea. featuring French. Moroccan, and Middle Eastern delights. We marveled at a truly traditional veal Francaise delicately swirled with a cognac demi-glace and a Chicken Marrakesh hursting with a saffron lime flavor. Skip the crème brulée and go straight for the fresh pear poached in vintage port stuffed with a dollop of buttery mascarpone. 5001 Addison Circle. Addison’972-386-7800. $$.



Popolos. Popolos has reopened and most of the original staff and popular menu items are back. One visit we sat at the bar and nibbled thin-crusted pizza layered with tomato, kala-mata olives, capers, and garlic. Another night we feasted on the always dependable (and enough for two) chicken piccata. For those without elastic-waist pants, the fat-free angel food cake bruschetta is a guilt-free ending. 707 Preston Royal Shopping Center. 214-692-5497, $$.

D BEST Suze. The attitude is casual, sophisticated, and neighborhood friendly. The food is a funky blend of Mediterranean fare that rotates continually and includes Prince Edward Island mussels steamed in coconut milk, cilantro, and chipotle broth that should not be missed. Chef/owner Gilbert Garza has proved he is a chef to be reckoned with-his double cut pork chops rubbed with red curry and topped with dried cherry sauce is a gastronomic work of art. Dinner only. 4345 W. Northwest Hwy. @ Midway Rd. 214-350-6135. $$.



MEXICAN

Anamia’s. The basics-cheese enchiladas, cheese tacos. guacamole. and beef tacos-are all above average, the surprise being the usually boring beef taco full of chili powder-spiced beef. Shrimp comes wafting the scent of lime, covered with nuggets of sauléed garlic, on a bed of sautêed celery, zucchini, carrots, mushrooms, and jalapenos. For two bucks, you can get an order of sopaipillas-a platter of three gold puffs sent from heaven with a little honey. 106 N. Denton Tap Rd.. Ste. 240. Coppell. 972-304-0321. S. Margaritas.



D B EST Avila’s. At Avila’s you can find all the flavors of Mexican food without the lard. Chili relleno isn’t battered and deep-fried; it’s gently roasted and stuffed with cheese or meat and covered in a light ranchera sauce. Enchiladas can be customized from a mix-and-match ingredients menu and is a must for vegetarians looking for a Tex-Mex fix. 4714 Maple Ave. 214-520-2700. $.



D BEST Ciudad. Monica Greene, the genius behind Monica’s Aca y Alla, ups her own ante by delivering dishes based on true Mexico City-style cuisine. Tender barbequed pork wrapped in fresh corn tortillas mix easily with a tropical fruit salsa, and an 8-ourtce beef tenderloin topped with melted asadero cheese is surrounded with a spicy red tomato sauce with a side of epazote-scented black beans. Por favor, save room for elegant desserts. 3888 Oak Lawn Ave., Ste. 135.214-219-3141.$$-$$$.



Cuquita’s. You won’t find a list of Tex-Mex combination plates or even a margarita here, but you will find authentic specialties like beef tongue simmering in a pepper-studded tomato sauce and tender fillets of pork sautéed with onions and spices. Everything goes down easy with a glass of freshly squeezed lemonade or a Bohemia. 2326 N. Henderson Ave. 214-823-1859. $. Beer only.



Javier’s Gourmet Mexicano. Javier’s hook is Mexico City Mexican food, and the atmosphere isn’t Tex-Mex kitschy but sophisticated. Salsa is nicely warmed, and margaritas are the real thing. Filete Cantinflas may look like a fried puck, but inside the stiff crust is a cheese-stuffed filet mignon with a brick-colored chile sauce-it’s too rich to eat and too good not to try. 4912 Cole Ave, 214-521 -4211.$$



La Calle Doce. The new Lakewood digs has the same menu and quality as the popular Oak Cliff location. Undoubtedly the best Mexican seafood in town, the fresh cold seafood cocktails-octopus, ceviche, and oysters-are full of spicy tomato sauce with chunks of celery and green peppers. The grilled whole catfish served with rice and vegetables shouldn’t be missed. 1925 Skillman St. 214-824-9900; 415 W. 12th St. 214-941-4304. $$.



Martin’s Cocina. The kitchen here does magic things with seafood (shrimp especially) and offers a listing of entrées that weigh in al less than 1.000 calories each, including the four chiles rellenos. But only skimp if you want to-the most basic combination plate starts with a lettuce-topped chalupa, its toasty tortilla thickly spread with guacamole. 7726 Ferguson Rd. 214-319-8834. $-$$.

D REVISITS Mattito’s. One has to wonder what the oh-so sophisticated denizens of Uptown think of their newest neighbor, Mattito’s. Just a marquis-cut stone’s throw away from upscale cool kids like Stanley Korshak, Matthew Trent, and Enigma sits a garish, hot pink building that sticks out like a whorehouse in Pleasantville. Which is not such a bad thing-Uptown can always use a little shakeup. Happily, Mattito’s has done the .same thing to its menu. Since moving from its old digs on Oak Lawn into the former Routh Street Brewery space, Mattito’s has spiced up its offerings with dishes more sophisticated than your typical chile con came-smothered options. Carne asada de cascabel was a smoky, fiery delight. The grilled steak was moist, stuffed with firm papas fritas (roasted potatoes) and covered in a rich, thick pepper sauce. Pork ribs brushed with a chipotle barbecue sauce were meaty and tender. But a dry combread and chorizo stuffing sabotaged a healthy, plump chicken breast. Like its sibling, Matt’s Rancho Martinez, Mattito’s also serves standard Tex-Mex fare, with varying degrees of success. The house special chile relleno is still one of the best in town: lightly breaded and slightly sweet with raisins and pecans. Drenched in chile con came and cheddar cheese, the chicken-fried steak is also a down-home winner. But enchiladas seem tame and bland compared to Mattito’s more creative endeavors. Stick to the new dishes and forget the old Mattito’s. It seems like a fresh coat of paint has added more than a splash of color to this restaurant’s culinary resurrection. 3011 Routh St. 214-922-8835; 5290 Belt Line Rd. @ Montfort Dr.. Addison. 972-503-8100. $-$$. -T.J.



D BEST Matt’s Rancho Martinez. The place is filled with the faithful at every meal because the flautas are the best in Dallas, the chile relleno is food for the gods, and even a combination plate satisfies, if you don’t mind processed cheese. 6332 La Vista Dr. 214-823-5517.$-$$.

D BEST Monica’s Aca y Alla. Monica Greene continues to serve (he best food bargains in town. Most lunches are less than $5. and the choices are not your normal Tex-Mex combinations. We’ve gorged on green enchiladas, mushroom quesadillas, and spinach-jalapeno fettuccine with chicken, roasted corn, cilantro. and black beans in a cream shallot béchamel sauce. Tuesday food is half-price and Wednesday’s freshly squeezed lime margaritas are only 50 cents. 2914 Main St. 214-748-7140.

Rafa’s. We love the seasoned red snapper topped with crabmeat, wrapped in foil, and cooked in its natural juices. The full-on Tex-Mex regulars of hefty beef enchiladas and sour cream chicken enchiladas never fail. And we never leave without sinfully submerging a sopaipilla dusted with powdered sugar into a warm ramekin of honey. Closed Monday. 5917 W. Lovers Ln. 214-357-2080. $-$$.

Taco Diner. The name sounds slightly retro. But the tacos at the Diner are real Mexican soft tacos, not drive-through, crunchy. greasy Tex-Mex mutations. The com tortillas are the star here; no matter what you wrap them around, the result is good-chicken with cojita cheese, grilled pork, and meaty mushrooms are all complemented by the fragrant masa tortillas. Service is hit-or-miss. 4011 Villanova Dr. 214-696-4944. $. 9 Margaritas.

MIDDLE EASTERN

Al-Amir. The Mediterranean meets the rising sun at AI Amir, which look the place of a Japanese restaurant. The result is an odd. melting-pot ambience. Concentrate on the plate-Middle Eastern expectations are well-met with good renditions of hummus, baba ghanoush, and lamb. But there are also some less well-known dishes to try. Dinner only. 7402 Greenville Ave. 214-739-2647.$$.

Basha. Baaha was one of the first in the wave of Middle Eastern restaurants that have opened in Dallas in the last few years. And it remains one of the best of a good lot. The menu is less predictable than many of Dallas” Lebanese restaurants, offering dishes outside the usual selection of hummus, baba ghanoush, rice, and grilled everything. Breast of chicken breaded in crushed pistachios is an excellent idea-so is fragrant lamb shank, cooked till it is stew on the bone. Okay, hummus is good, too. 2217 Greenville Ave. 214-?24-7794. $$.

D BEST Cafe Izmir. This remains one of the best little restaurants in Dallas. The space is small, the service is friendly, and the choices are simple-all you have to say is “meat” or “veg” and the food starts coming. The mezes platter-hummus, baba ghanoush. and Russian chicken salad, all designed to spread on warm pita bread-is a regular. Wash it down with a bottle of the Boutari, and you’ll be happy. Dinner only. 3711 Greenville Ave. 214-826-7788. $$.

Queen of Sheba. Excellent Ethiopian specialties served in real style. Go straight to the Queen’s Dinner-a feast that includes almost everything on the menu presented beautifully on a silver platter. The banquet, a bargain at $30 per person, also includes a special hand-washing ceremony-once with an apéritif, again after sopping up the juice from the pureed lentils. 3527 McKinney Ave. @ Lemmon Ave. 214-521-0491.$$.



NEW AMERICAN



Antares. The Hyatt Regency’s sky-high, revolving restaurant appears to be finding its wings at last. Huge sea scallops were sparked with chile-peanut dressing; grilled beefsteak tomatoes and shiitake mushroom caps wore dollops of melted queso fresco in a roasted shallot vinaigrette. Reunion Tower, 300 Reunion Blvd. 214-651-1234.$$-$$$.



Chaparral Club. The ancho-rubbed chicken (with bones!) can be a little salty, but the creamy goat-cheese stuffing guarantees moist meat. The bone-in filet, along with truffled mashed potatoes and cubed root vegetables sautéed together, make a plate that satisfies all senses. Don’t miss The Perfect Dessert: a satiny sphere of white chocolate split and filled with fresh blueberries and raspberries sliding around in a pool of crème Anglaise. Dinner only. Adam’s Mark Hotel, 400 N. Olive St. 214-777-6539. $$-$$$.



City Cafe, The sophisticated menu changes every three weeks-the perfect lure to go back and get hooked on chef Jason Gorman’s new creations. Recently we’ve tried a moist chicken breast rubbed with garlic and served with whipped potatoes scented with goat cheese and a nutty flavored Lake Victoria perch slowly braised with heirloom tomatoes. A popular haunt for know-it-alt-foodies. 5757 Lovers Ln. 214-351-2233.$$.



Guthrie’s. Luckily Guthrie’s sits next to our parking lot downtown. That makes it easy to dash over for a quick luncheon comfort-food fix of roasted chicken and mashed potatoes. Chef William Guthrie gets creative at night and turns out brilliant versions of pork schnitzel with sautéed mushroom and a killer version of fish and chips. 400 S. Ervay St. 214-760-7900.$-$$.



The Mansion on Turtle Creek. This isn’t dinner: it’s a dining experience. A dramatic, country club-like, members-only dining experience. The Grande Dame of Dallas dining continues to live up to its legend-the atmosphere is inimitably posh, and the food is predictably innovative. The price? If you have to ask, you can’t afford it. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 214-526-2121.$$$.



The Mercury. Chef Chris Ward has taken control of the kitchen and is doing a bang-up job. A normally pedestrian potato soup was delivered thick and hot. and the arugula pesto drizzled on top provided the perfect kick of flavor. Two .savory pork chops resting easily beside a creamy rosemary risotto was easy on the eye and palate. 1418 Preston Forest Sq. 972-960-7774.$$.



Parigi. Menus still change weekly, and the food is prepared to order, by hand. Service can be a little flaky, but the food-specials and perennials-is excellent. The famous beef tenderloin with mustard sauce and “smashed” potatoes is as good as ever, the beef rare and unusually flavorful, the potatoes buttery and just lumpy. It’s been on the menu since Parigi opened-a long time, 3311 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-521 -0295.$$.



Sevy’s. The thoroughly American Prairie-style interior perfectly complements chef/owner Jim Severson’s hearty American cuisine. The plates here present classic ideas with imaginative updates. The menu is varied, but beef is a reliable choice-the tenderloin is slightly hickory smoked. The marinated mushroom appetizer is the best portobello in town. 820! Preston Rd. 214-265-7389.$$.



Tramontane Chef James Neel has successfully stretched his culinary skills. He and his wife. Lisa, have created a delightful New American menu with Italian and French accents. Osso buco fans, bring your own marrow forks-after devouring the veal braised in red wine, we brazenly blew the marrow out of the bones ourselves, A Key lime trifle was so tart it puckered our mouth, but the silky bananas foster cream pie soothed our souls. 8220-B Westchester Dr., Preston Center. 214-368-4188.$$.



York Street As Dallas restaurants get bigger and bigger, this little chef-owned cafe seems smaller and smaller. And its value rises as the qualities we love about it become rarer and rarer. The choices of elegant food-pheasant paté with pears, frogs’ legs, roast duck, and quail- are a wonderful relief from beef and chicken. It’s easy for dinner to spin into hours of conversation because the atmosphere is so conducive to it 6047 Lewis St. 214-826-0968. $$-$$$.



SEAFOOD

Cafe Pacific. Cafe Pacific continues to delight as one of Dallas’ most reliable luncheon and dinner restaurants, as well as the place to witness the social structure of Dallas’ power people in action. Menu favorites like calamari. clam chowder, Caesar salad, salmon, and red snapper are superbly prepared and presented by an experienced staff, 24 Highland Park Village. 214-526-1170. $$-$$$.



Lombard! Mare. Few seafood kitchens in town offer as many varieties of fresh oysters. Recently we were served a disappointing plate of polenta-crusted salmon, but the pasta covered with lobster, shrimp, scallops, crabmeat, and asparagus restored our faith in Alberto Lombardi’s touch. Perfect setting and food to impress out-of-towners. Village on the Parkway, Montfort Dr, @ Belt Line Rd. 972-503-1233.$$$.

Newport’s. Enjoy an imaginative seafood menu thai we classify loosely as New England seafood with Asian and Cajun influences. Grilled tilapia is .served with a side of sautéed apples, cilantro, and toasted pecans. And the tuna is a three-inch pan-seared hunk served in a bowl of rice and covered with sautéed portobel-los and roasted peppers-almost wonderful, except for the lake of teriyaki sauce drowning the rice. 703 McKinney Ave. 214-954-0220. $$-$$$.



Rockfish. Rockfish is cozy and uncontrived; even the cute stuff and the out-of-place ambience feels comfortable. You can get an oversized platter tilled with more than a pound of fresh crab, about 30 medium boiled shrimp, two ears of com, several new potatoes, and a foot of sausage for S22.99. Our main problem with Rockfish is that it’s a neighborhood restaurant, but it’s not in our neighborhood. 7639 Campbell Rd.@ Coit. 972-267-8979; 4701 W. Park Blvd.. Piano. 972-599-2190.$-$$.



D BEST S&D Oyster Company. S&D can do anything with shrimp, and they have been doing it for longer than we care to remember (or admit we do). The fried shrimp is so delicately breaded you can still see the pink-skinned flesh through the crust. Then it’s butter-flied. lightly fried, and served with a dollop of tartar sauce-heavy on the pickle. And no meal here would be complete without a slice of the famous Key lime pie. 2701 McKinney Ave. 214-880-0111.$$.



Truluck’s Steak & Stone Crab. Yes, Truluck’s has a large array of seafood and steak specialties, but the main reason to eat here is the crab claws. They serve four varieties-medium, large, jumbo, and colossal. Recently we conducted a taste test, ordering four different plates of pre-cracked claws. After much fork-lighting, we decided we loved the sweet fresh meat tucked inside all of them. At Truluck’s, size doesn’t matter. 5001 Bell Line Rd.. Addison. 972-503-3079^2401 McKinney Ave. 214-220-2401.$$-$$$.



SOUTHWESTERN

Blue Mesa. Blue Mesa has wisely stuck with its original concept of Southwestern fare: The table-side guacamole is truly a marvel, with avocados as smooth as congealed cream. Adobe pie, the signature dish, is as good as ever, as is the warm salsa and yam and tortilla chips. 7700 W. Northwest Hwy. 214-378-8686: 5100 Belt Line Rd. 972-934-0165. $$.



No Place. Tender elk sirloin and boneless rabbit are sided with sautéed portobello mushrooms and onions. Better-than-beef chicken-fried venison comes with Man’s famous smoked mashed potatoes. The food is why Matt Martinez Jr. is a legend-in his own neighborhood, anyway. 6325 La Vista Dr. 214-823-9077. $$~$$$.



Tin Star. Somehow the folks here have corralled the frenetic lunchtime atmosphere into an atypical fast-food joint serving inspired renditions of soli tacos, chicken-fried steak, and breakfast burritos. The soft tacos are the tops-each combination of fillings is an innovative juxtaposition of Tex and Mex. 2626 Howell St. (across from the Quadrangle). 214-999-0059; 2208 Dallas Pkwy., Piano. 972-403-1765.$, 9 Margaritas.



SPANISH

D BEST Cafe Madrid. Dallas first tanas bar remains its best, and everybody knows it. Even midweek, this little two-room restaurant has customers waiting at the bar for one of the mismatched tables in the storefront space. For those who insist, there is a prix-fixe, three-course dinner menu, but Cafe Madrid is a great place to linger over a succession of small dishes–an assortment of olives, oxtail stew, the potato omelette called a tortilla, and braised lamb slices. Dinner only. 4501 Travis St. 214-528-1731.$$.



D REVISITS Hola. IIdefonso Jimenez Dallas’ tapas king. In 1990. he and former wife Donica opened Cafe Madrid, a casual Knox Park favorite of Spanish dining. Then came the recently defunct Ketama. a hip and seductive flamenco bar in Deep Ellum where attitude and atmosphere prevailed over the uneven fare. But with Hola. Jimenez has struck the perfect balance between food and mood. The dark, cozy cafe has a welcome, laid-back appeal and draws an eclectic clientele-from the taut, trendy Park Cities elite to M Street couples and Knox Park singles. It’s been a hit since its opening earlier this year. Chef Sergio Perez’s recently expanded menu makes a great restaurant even better. Old favorites like crispy cala-mari. blood sausage, and razor-thin slices of salty serrano ham are enticing and plentiful: Hola certainly isn’t stingy with its portions. Codfish and corn croquettes sound odd but are highly addictive. The crackling exterior gives way to a satin-like purée of the mild fish and a rich béchamel. But as good as the croquettes are. don’t overlook the new menu additions like roasted peppers stuffed with oxtail stew or chunks of chicken marinated in a hearty beer and caper sauce. Hola also roasts its own almonds, a perfect compliment to a side of cabarles–one of Spain’s dark, nutty blue cheeses-and a bottle of red from Hola’s reasonably priced and well-chosen wine list. The tapas bar’s lone weakness is pacing. The food flies so fast from the kitchen you might feel rushed. But it isn’t intentional. Tapas is about sharing food, conversation, and good times. 4S31 McKinney Ave.. 214-522-0505. $. -T.J.



Seville at the Stoneleigh. The menu is more than tapas at this upscale Spanish dining room that resembles chichi spots in Spain. Five varieties of paella headline the show and a tenderly braised rabbit comes served hunter-style in rich brown gravy that accents the mild-fla-vored meat. An extensive list of tapas makes it easy to make a meal with a combination of small plates. 2927 Maple Ave. 214-871 -7111. $$$.



STEAKHOUSES

AI Biernat’s. The dinner menu’s specialty section features prime rib. rack of lamb, and jumbo lobsters. The entrees reveal the imagination of a chef who has more on his mind than meat. The sea bass is moist, but the two mainstays-steak and lobster-are a problem. As for the lunch menu, the steak sandwich comes off well, and so do the slices of grilled and balsamic-dressed portobello mushroom and tomato fanned around a hummock of baked goat cheese. 4217 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-219-2201. $$-$$$.



D BEST Bob’s Steak & Chop House. We usu- ally forego filets. preferring a more flavorful cut, but the three-inch nine-ounce is beautifully marbled and cooked perfectly pink and tender. It’s impossible not to love the “smashed” potatoes-they’re wickedly mashed with about a stick of butter in each serving. And the slight sweet glaze on Bob’s signature whole carrots side dish is a nice contrast to the beef. The atmosphere here is as comfortable as your grandmother’s dining room, but the restaurant is crowded with the Ross Perot and Jerry Jones set. Dinner only. 4300 Lemmon Ave. 214-528-9446.$$-$$$.



Capital Grille. Normally we wouldn’t touch a high-dollar surf-and-turf chain restaurant with a 10-foot expense account, but here we make an exception. An 18-ounce Delmonico strip almost two inches thick was served hot on the outside with a cool pink center. But the surf stole our hearts-lobster filled with lightly breaded chunks of lobster, rock crab, and shrimp was a tasty bargain at $65. 500 Crescent C1. 214-303-0500. $$$.



D BEST Chamberlain’s. Richard Chamberlain makes tine dining simple and elegant. You won’t find any singing cowboys or 20-page wine lists. Prime rib, a beautiful hand-cut aged beef, is perfectly seasoned with coarse salt and fresh cracked black pepper. We could pass on the meat here and still be happy with bowls of green beans and mushrooms sautéed in garlic and buttered com freshly shucked from the cob. Dinner only. 5330 Belt Line Rd.. Addison. 972-934-2467. S$-$$$.



Kirby’s Steakhouse. One dinner had six happy Yankee carnivores whistling Dixie, but more recently, we were served a puck-like filet sitting alone on a parsley-less plate. And we didn’t understand what made the mashed potatoes “famous”-we tasted nothing more than potatoes with lots of pepper. On the other hand, service was attentive, and the prime rib was pure retro-quality. Dinner only. 3525 Greenville Ave. 214-821-2122; 3408 Preston Rd., Piano. 972-867-2122. $$.



Pappas Bros. Steakhouse. This is the best beef we’ve eaten in Dallas lately. The porterhouse, regally alone and ungamished, arrives at the perfect degree of doneness and is still actually hot. Mushrooms-crimini and shiitake, in a port reduction-and thick-cut, thinly breaded onion rings are both preferable to another potato. And we appreciate the diminutive (only three-and-a-half pounds!) Maine lobster, perfectly steamed and cracked, and only $64. Even dessert, which frequently seems like an insult in a steakhouse. is spectacular. Dinner only. 10477 Lombardy Ln. 214-366-2000. $$-$$$.



Sullivan’s Steakhouse. The knockout punch is a 24-ounce. bone-in ribeye coated with lots of fresh ground pepper, perfectly cooked to medium rare. Smoked pork chops are grilled and served with a side of sweet, smoked apples. The side dishes are only average; the horseradish mashed potatoes could have used a little more horseradish, and the donut-sized onion rings are heavily beer-breaded and greasy. Prices are less than you’d expect. Dinner only. 17795 N. Dallas Pkwy. 972-267-9393. $$.



Venus Steak and Supper Club. Polish your dancing shoes and prepare for a retro night of dinner and dancing. Although the owners have overdramatized the concept by placing little hearts on the menu denoting the aphrodisiac quality of dishes, the food is above average and the music and mood are guaranteed to coax dedicated non-dancers on the dance floor. Desserts are spectacular. 4140 Lemrnon Ave. @ Douglas Ave. 214-520-1177. $$-$$$.



THAI

Chow Thai. A strip shopping center doesn’t seem a likely spot for a Thai food epiphany, but you’ll have one here. Excellent Thai classics like vegetables in a fiery green curry and Pad Thai taste clean and light. A dessert of fresh mango atop sticky rice is a spectacular ending. 5290 Belt Line Rd. @ Montfort Dr., Addison. 972-960-2999. $$.



Chow Thai Pacific Rim. A visual and gastronomic delight. Sample fresh shrimp and mango summer rolls and tapioca balls stuffed with sweet radishes in the dim sum bar before moving into the main dining room where tea-smoked pork chops and a spicy beef salad await. Homemade ice cream is impossible to pass up alongside the sugar-fried banana roll. 3309 Dallas Pkwy. @ Parker Rd.. Piano. 972-608-1883. $$.



Mango. This is the second restaurant from the folks who brought Chow Thai to Dallas. Playful proportions and offbeat hues color Mango California-cool. House special Mee Sea Go is an ocean broth full of scallops, shrimp, and eala-mari. Pad Thai is appropriately sweet and crunchy with peanuts. 4701 W. Park Blvd.. Piano. 972-599-0289. $-$$.



Royal Spice Thai Bistro. We could have stopped after the appetizers-sweet corn fritters and spring rolls crunchy with cabbage-but the entrées are irresistible. We felt silly ordering ’”seafood oodles,” but the shallow bowl of flat pappardelle noodles piled with sautéed shrimp, scallops, calamari. and broccoli was a delicious $13 bargain. Sticky rice is very nice and covered with fresh mango. 5004 Addison Circle. 972-788-2223. $$.



Thai Hoodie and Rice. Don’t be fooled by the linoleum-floor and Formica-table appearance because the food can stand up to any white-tablecloth Thai restaurant in town. Chicken satay and spring rolls are above average, and the fish cakes made with string beans and curry paste are lender pads of goodness, 2634 Fitzhugh Ave. 214-827-5828. $



Toy’s Cafe. This hole-in-the-wall joint has all the elements of a great neighborhood “rind.” The tantalizing aroma of curry and garlic is welcoming. Thai iced tea is a hit: eggplant and tofu in Thai green-curry coconut milk is perfectly prepared. Squid salad with Thai herbs is fresh and tasty. 4422B Lemmon Ave. 214-528-7233. $.



VIETNAMESE

Green Papaya. If you’re going to learn anything about pronouncing Vietnamese, learn to say pho correctly. The traditional Vietnamese bowl of broth comes thick with rice noodles and your choice of beef, chicken, or meatballs. Most of the other traditional country dishes are good, but someone in the kitchen needs to adjust some of the uninspired seasonings. 3211 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-521-4811.$.



Mai’s, Mai’s is one of those places that has lots of loyal customers. The menu is stocked with authentic Vietnamese specialties, including many noodle and rice entrées and the classic hot pots: exotic meats, vegetables, and spices cooked and served in clay pots. Be sure and try the legendary Vietnamese coffee with sweetened condensed milk. 4812 Bryan St. 214-826-9887.$.



Mai’s Oriental Cuisine. The Vietnamese menu is the one to go for. Proprietor Mai Pham opened the first Vietnamese restaurant in Dallas, and her food is still terrific at her little restaurant in Snider Plaza. The hot pots are especially good–“hot chic” is the regulars” favorite. 6912 Snider Plaza. 214-361 -8220. $-$$.



Miss Saigon. Texas-sized portions abound at this authentic Vietnamese restaurant. Egg rolls the diameter of baby bottles, a mound of fried rice, a pile of lemon grass chicken, and three plate-sized mu shoo pancakes stuffed with Mongolian beef were all delicious and kepi us fed for three days. 12300 lnwood Rd. 972-503-7110.$$.



VietNam. A little bit of Southeast Asia transplanted to East Dallas, VietNam has very little Western influence to make the cultural transition easier. This is Vietnamese food designed for the Vietnamese community. But some things are universal-the appeal of hot soup, for instance. And VietNam’s hot pot, a comforting, steaming cauldron of soup, noodles, and vegetables, is enough to share. 4302 Bryan St. 214-821-4542.$-$$.



FORT WORTH

Abuelo’s Mexican Food Embassy. Usually we stick to hole-in-the-wall joints, avoiding slick connived cantina-esque restaurants like the tap water in Mexico. But Abuelo’s gives us a few reasons to cross the line. We loved the house specialties of grilled bacon-wrapped shrimp stuffed with Monterey Jack and the medallions of chicken stuffed with chorizo. But the Tex-Mex offerings covered with pounds of cheese send us straight to the nearest bring-your-own-six-pack spot. 824 Airport Fwy.. Hurst. 817-514-9355.$$.



D BEST Angela’s, The big, wood-paneled dance hall of a room is lined with a self-service buffet line, cold-drink coolers, and chip racks on a linoleum floor. You grab a round tray and a frosted stein of Bud and eat from sty-rofoam plates under antler heads mounted on the walls. The chicken, served “while it lasts.” goes fast-it’s juicy and smoked off the bone. All the usual sides-beans, cole slaw-stand up to the ribs, but we wish they’d put more punch in their thin, vinegar-based sauce. 2533 White Settlement Rd.. Fort Worth. 817-332-0357. $.



Angeiuna. The patio swarms with an artsy Chanel-and-Chardonnay crowd before and after events at the Bass Performance Hall across the street. The “one-world-on-a-plale” menu features designer pizzas, pastas, and spinach and mushroom salads corralled by delicate potato rings. Who cares if it’s more about style than substance? After all, the parent company is in Aspen. 215 E. 4th St., Fort Worth. 817-334-0080. $$.



Benito’s. Like an old familiar friend, Benito’s appearance may be spruced up from time to time, but some tilings never change-like the food. The queso flameado, with or without chorizo, is flamed tableside and served with fresh pico de gallo and hot flour or corn tortillas. Order it first, and then spend some lime with the menu-everything on it is worth trying. 1450 W, Magnolia Ave.. Fort Worth. 817-332-8633,$$.



D BEST Grape Escape. The gimmick here is education-Grape Escape is trying to do the same thing for wine that brew pubs did for beer. So you order ■’flights” of the grape of your choice, and the waiter brings a four-glass tasting of say, Chardonnay, from Sonoma, Napa. Australia, and New Zealand. Compare and contrast. The food is designed around the wine, so you can change direction mid-meal-start with white wine and suggested matches, finish with red wine and cheese. The selection of small plates-paté, salads, stuffed potatoes, pizzettes-adds up to a full meal that’s lots of fun. Dinner only. 500 Commerce St., Fort Worth. 817-336-9463. $$.



Joe T. Garcia’s Esperanza’s Mexican Bakery.

Although not as fancy as its cousin around the comer, the chefs do an excellent job preparing all the old favorites from burritos to tamales. Breakfast is a work of art here. And on your way out. the bakery, in an alcove off the dining room, sells traditional Mexican breads, rolls, and sweet rolls. 2122 N. Main St., Fort Worth. 817-626-5770.$$.



D BEST Joe T. Garcia’s Mexican Dishes. The quintessential Fort Worth restaurant. Its location near the Stockyards can handle the crowds for whom the restaurant’s status hovers somewhere between “institution” and “nirvana.” Wait for a spot outside by the pool, and order the enchiladas. Joe doesn’t do credit cards or reservations, either. 2201 N. Commerce St., Fort Worth. 817-626-4356. $$.



D BEST Kincaid’s. Connoisseurs of Kincaid s aren’t satisfied when food critics refer to their half-pound burgers as “the best.” They prefer adjectives like “perfect” and “exquisite.” No frills, no fuss, just burgers made from lean ground chuck on a warm bun with mustard, shredded lettuce, tomato, pickle, onion, and cheese-a perfectly-exquisite experience. 4901 Camp Bowie Blvd., Fort Worth. 817-732-2881. $



Pegasus. Fort Worth has good restaurant news-this newly opened eclectic spot with strong Middle Eastern touches is a winner. The mezze menu features hummus softly spiked with garlic, handmade dolmas stuffed with lamb and rice, and moist falafels served with an inspired fresh mango and mint coulis. A chocolate cappuccino tart smothered in Godiva chocolate sauce is nearly an overdose for chocoholics. 2443 Forest Park Blvd.. Fort Worth. 817-922-0808. $$.



D BEST Randall’s Gourmet Cheesecake Company. It’s a wonderfully romantic, candle-lit French cafe serving delightful classic specialties. Beef tenderloin medallions served with rosemary-roasted shallots come with crunchy haricots verts and garlic mashed potatoes. But the pièce de résistance is a savory cheesecake, made of parmesan and feta cheese baked with basil pesto, asparagus, mushrooms, and kalamata olives. 907 Houston St.. Fort Worth. 817-336-2253. $$.



Saint Emilion. Some are surprised to see this Fori Worth restaurant on the list of top 10 restaurants in the area. But the brick-walled, country French atmosphere is charming, and the food is mostly terrific. The wine list features many vintages from the Saint Emilion region, as you might expect. Dinner only, 3617 W. 7th St., Fort Worth. 817-737-2781. $$$.



Sapristi. Chef/owner Bernard (St. Emilion) Tranche’s small bistro is charming: The music is refreshingly low and the wine list is solid. If you want to buy an extra bottle to take home, knock off half the price. The kitchen offers live preparations of mussels-those steamed in pesto broth and seasoned with black olives and vermouth are our favorite. 2148 Forest Park Blvd., Fort Worth. 817-924-7231. $$.

GASTRONOMIC GIFT



Dallas’ head cheese-maker, Paula Lambert, has compressed 20 years of artisanal cheesemaking into the ultimate book. The Cheese Lover’s Cookbook & Guide, Her Mozzarella Company has produced varieties ranging from classic fresh mozzarella to Tex-Mex-flavored ancho chile goat milk caciot-ta. Lambert’s love for cheese inspired her to create this useful, all-inclusive guide containing easy-to-follow recipes that transform simple dishes into something extraordinary. Chapters include a history of cheese; how to buy, cut, and serve; and simple ways to make several different types of cheese at home. You will never be able to take another fruit-and-cheese tray seriously after learning how easy it is to prepare baked brie with mushrooms, walnuts, and dried cranberries. -N.N.



OFF THE

PLATE

“I’m more familiar with the dining scene in New York. Now I plan to eat at restaurants in Dallas.”

-Culinary icon Stephan Pyles on how he plans to spend his free time after resigning from Carlson Restaurants Worldwide.

W I N E T A L K

Drink the Stars



We Two Wise Women have followed the seasonal star east to France where blind visionary (now that’s funny!) Dom Perignon accidentally discovered everyone’s favorite holiday beverage-Champagne. Convinced there was a problem with a spring refermentation of the white wine of his Abbey, Brother Dom deemed it “wine of the devil.” After a hesitant first taste, he exclaimed to his fellow monks: “Come quickly, I’m drinking stars!” If this isn’t enough fodder for holiday cocktail conversation,then savor these stellar facts:

Scientist Bill Lembeck estimated 49 In million bubbles are In one bottle of Champagne. Do your own count with a chilled bottle of 6RATIEN & MEYER FLEUR DE LYS ROSE BRUT, N.V. ($17). This proud sparkler hails from one of the best families in the Loire Valley. Each supple bubble Is embraced with almond and cherry notes. Count on!



Diamonds are a girl’s best friend? H Not. Marilyn Monroe is reported to have bathed in a tub brimming with 350 bottles of Champagne. According to formula, that’s more than 17 trillion bubbles. Fill your tub with MONTAUDON BRUT CHAMPAGNE, N.V. ($30). With distinctive nutty aroma and flavor, super-smooth texture, and seemingly endless finish, you’ll want to Immerse yourself in its pleasures. Soak on!



Guilty about bubble baths? Take comf1 fort in the soothing wisdom of 3 Rudyard Kipling: “If the aunt of the Vicar has never touched liquor, watch out when she finds the Champagne.” Be prepared to Offer GOBILLARD CUVEE PRESTIGE ROSE PREMIER CRU, ’95 ($40). This elegant, refined, salmon pink blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir Is from the oldest vineyard in Brother Dom’s backyard. The Vicar’s aunt will love this truly decadent sparkler. Drink on!

After an evening of holiday revelry, reflect on the sage thoughts of Daisy Fuentes, MTV fashion maven: “There’s something very relaxing about drinking Champagne…while you’re not wearing a cocktail dress.” Open a squatty bottle of AI Brown, known to the French since 1860 as ALBERT LE BRUN BRUT, N.V. ($55), and surrender to the evening’s seductive embrace. Holiday on!



-Susan Kendall and Sybil Kipriotis

S I D E D I S H

Gelato Renaissance



What do Voltaire, Napoleon Bonaparte, and Oscar Wilde have in common? If you answered “little man syndrome,” you’re wrong. The correct answer is that all three of them shared a great passion for gelato, the Italian frozen confection created in the 16th century that was immediate “it” treat for the royal court and visiting dignitaries. If Ugo Ginatta, a recent resident of Turin, Italy, has his way, Baskin and Robbins better watch their 31 flavors. His new Paciugo, a gelateria artigiamale on West Lovers Lane, produces 32 small batches of gelato daily using no preservatives or artificial flavors or fragrances. Forget the traditional pecan pie this Christmas and treat your dinner guests like royalty with a cup of cranberry gelato. Buonissimo!-N.N.

5509 W. Lovers in., 214-958-7979.

NEIGHBORHOOD FIND

Bubbacito’s Taco Rama

Let’s be honest. How can you drive past a place named Bubbacito’s Taco Rama and not be Intrigued? With its flying flags and scrap-metal banderas out front, the restaurant wears its bad taste like some garish badge of campy courage. You don’t expect the food to be good, nor do you really care. You just want to tell people that you ate at the Taco Rama. It’s all in the name. Or Is It? Luckily, Bubbacito’s is owned by the same folks that brought us Babe’s Fried Chicken in Roanoke and Bubba’s Home Cooking in University Park. All three are drive-thru treasures, understanding the difference between tasteless fast food and flavorful quick meals. Bubbacito’s Tex-Mex offerings are tasty, fresh, and cheap, making you wish you’d kicked that talking chihauhau to the curb long ago. Beef tacos were crispy and lean while a guacamole tostada was cool and fresh. The Frito burrito (a Taco Bell knock-off) was a two-fisted cocoon of beans, seasoned beef, cheese, and crispy corn chips-a true white trash delight. Plate dinners come with fluffy rice and a cross between borracho and refried beans. Anything with Bubbacito’s zesty cheese enchiladas is a top choice. The counter service is quick, the dining area clean and slick, and the jukebox plays non-stop. Bubbacito’s might not be that culinary outpost of haute cuisine that Allen’s residents have longed for, but it might reaffirm your faith in edible fast food. Besides: It’s the Taco Rama. You gotta love it if only for the name. 208 N. Greenville, Allen, 214-495-9200.$. Margaritas -T.J.