When I Went: Aug. 1-31, 2011
Was That the Best Time of Year to Go? Colombia has two dry and two rainy seasons, and those can vary depending on where you are. It’s generally said that December through March and July/August are the safest times. We had great weather the whole time. Lonely Planet has a good overview of the weather here.
Why I Went There: My mom and I were planning a big mother-daughter trip, and she asked me to choose the destination, anywhere in the world. Without hesitation, I said “Colombia.” She politely reminded me that she said ANYWHERE in the world. But not one other country came to mind. I wanted to go there. And so we went. (I have a really cool mom.) I still don’t know why I was drawn to it. Yes, I’m a big Gabriel García Márquez fan. And I love an adventure. And the New York Times and Conde Nast Traveler were starting to publish more frequent findings. It was clear that the country was turning around, and I wanted to see it for myself.
Who Went With Me? My 60-year-old mother.
We Stayed Here: Bogota — Sofitel Hotel, Villa de Leyva — La Posada de San Antonio, Armenia/Coffee Region — Hacienda Bambusa, Medellin — Park 10 Hotel.
[mapimage url=”http%3A%2F%2Fmaps.google.com%2Fmaps%2Fapi%2Fstaticmap%3Fsize%3D200x200%26sensor%3Dfalse%26markers%3DBogota%2CColombia%7CVilla%2520de%2520Leyva%2C%2520Colombia%7CArmenia%2CColombia%7CMedellin%2CColombia%26zoom%3D5″]You Won’t Want to Miss: First, you should get in touch with Colombia 57, a local travel agent. They helped us connect the dots from our original plan, and each one of their tour guides was phenomenal. We felt extremely well taken care of, and remain friends with the guides to this day. When you arrive in Bogota, you may have some elevation sickness, so be aware, and drink lots of water. Be sure to get a bowl of ajiaco, the local chicken and potato soup. It can cure all ills, and it’s a great complement to Bogota’s chilly 60-degree, rainy weather. Don’t miss the Gold Museum and the trip up to Monserrate to get a view of the city. La Candelaria is fun to explore during the day, but it’s probably best to stay in the northern part of the city around Zona Rosa and Parque 93.
Villa de Leyva is a six-hour drive from Bogota. It’s worth the trip if you want to experience a colonial village and soak in fresh mountain air. We stayed at a lovely posada, and had great tour guides: Oscar and Jorge. Oscar runs Colombian Highlands, so be sure to get in touch with him before you go. He’s extremely knowledgable and is very respected in the community. Enjoy a nice meal along the Plaza Mayor at sunset and go for a horseback ride through the valleys.
Coffee Region: Colombia is one of the biggest global producers of coffee, and they are slowly starting to build a tourism industry around it. We loved staying at the Hacienda Bambusa (the owner speaks perfect English, which is a rarity), and they can organize activities like horseback riding or bird watching. Go for a tour of the coffee finca Cafe San Alberto in Buenavista. Salento’s a great little town and a good place to buy souvenirs. While you’re there, go for a hike in the Valle de Cocora, where Colombia’s stunning national tree, the wax palm, grows.
Medellin is worth the trip, if only to be inspired by its transformation. During the days of Pablo Escobar, it was one of the murder capitals of the world. Now it is a global leader in social and urban innovation, and its economy is one of the main reasons for Colombia’s recent rapid growth. For entertainment and dining, peruse the bars and restaurants along Zona Rosa. Definitely go on a tour of the city and explore Botero Plaza. For those interested in urbanism and public works, don’t miss riding the cable car.
Eat Here: The food in Colombia is generally the same wherever you go. We ate at a lot of restaurants, but below are a few of the standouts. You really can’t go wrong with any hotel or local’s recommendations. Their main meal is lunch (thankfully siestas are appropriate), and dinner usually starts around 8. In Bogota — Di Lucca, incredible Italian and Donostia, great tapas in the bohemian Macarena neighborhood. In Medellin — For a truly authentic experience, go to Ajiaco and Mondongos. A can’t-miss. There’s Il Castello, another great Italian spot.
Play Here: Seeing that I was with my mom, we didn’t do much partying. But Colombians love to have a great time, so if you have trusted local friends, don’t miss an opportunity to go out. Definitely go salsa dancing, or take lessons.
If I Went Again: I would have brushed up on my Spanish. While Colombia is becoming a more popular destination, its tourism infrastructure is nascent, and English is not prevalent. I recommend taking a few classes before you go.
How Did You Get There From Dallas? We flew American Airlines to Miami and then to Bogota. It was only three hours from Miami.
Other Tips For Fellow Travelers: We absolutely loved it, and did not have any safety issues. That said, there are parts of Colombia that are still dangerous. Do your research, and just be smart. And know that you’re not going to Europe. While the people are incredibly friendly and helpful, you must be patient, as tourism is a relatively new industry for them. Colombians themselves are just starting to travel around their own country. So expect delays, some confusion, and shaky service. But if you are an experienced traveler or can go with the flow, you’ll be fine.
