Overall Score: 89.65
5251 Spring Valley Rd.
Steak: The steaks were seasoned well with a nice crust on top. There was a lot of butter on the plate. Scores: filet (12 oz., $41) 95, bone-in rib-eye (22 oz., $48) 99
Service: Pushy, perfunctory, and efficient. Our server tried to up-sell us in every category. He started out friendly but seemed bored after he realized we wouldn’t go above $75 on the wine. 80
Wine sell: When told we weren’t interested in a big California Cabernet, he went straight to offering an Oregon Pinot Noir for $100. When I didn’t bite, he steered me to a Honig Cabernet from Napa for $95, which coincidentally was “going to be served at an upcoming wine dinner” at the restaurant. He mentioned where we could buy tickets to the event. This guy could have sold a box of Franzia to any baron of the Rothschilds. Tired of the pitches, I settled on a glass of Brancott Pinot Noir from New Zealand for $12.75. 85
Shrimp: Five sweet, fresh, and firm shrimp served with three sauces. The red was like ketchup. I asked for extra horseradish. (U-12, $17). 85
Salad: Short list of classics. The wedge is above average, and the creamy blue cheese dressing is loaded with crumbles of sharp blue cheese. 94
Vegetables: Crisp, bright green asparagus rolled in butter. 90
Potatoes: Thin-sliced potatoes and onion are fried to almost chip-like texture. (Found a use for that cocktail sauce.) We spooned some of the grilled onions on the steaks. 95
Dessert: Two words: lemon cake. Three more: best in Dallas. Bow when it passes. 100
Ambiance: If you sit downstairs, you’re in the scene. We were seated in the upstairs dining room, which had the charm of an old hotel ballroom. 87