10. The Place at Perry’s
Overall Score: 89.47
2911 Routh St.
Steak: This family-owned restaurant serves only steaks from Niman Ranch and its U.S. farmers, who are known for raising their livestock traditionally, humanely, and sustainably. All steaks come with choice of potato. Scores: filet (12 oz., $45) 96, cowboy rib-eye (23 oz., $55) 95
Service: Experienced, hurried, charming. It took about half an hour to get service rolling, but once the orders were placed, the meal was well-paced. 89
Wine sell: “I’m going to bring you a bottle of a special wine,” our server said. “We are doing a wine dinner with them later this month, and I think you’ll like it better than a Cabernet. It’s a Bordeaux-style blend.” He returned with the same hardly-lighter-than-a-Cabernet Orin Swift The Prisoner blend we’d sampled at Kirby’s for $72. Here, at least, it was only $54. 70
Shrimp: Five assorted-size shrimp with slightly spicy cocktail sauce. (U-10-12, $16) 80
Salads: Short list of usual choices. We loved the house-made croutons on the Caesar, which was oh-so-delicately dressed and garnished with shaved Parmesan. 87
Vegetables: Simply steamed Brussels sprouts. 90
Potatoes: Au gratin potatoes were mashed potatoes covered with a thick layer of—and I thought I would never type this—too much cheddar cheese. We switched to steak fries, which were baked potatoes quartered and fried. 86
Dessert: I say you pass the potatoes and go straight to the outrageous apple pie baked in a bag. Hot spiced tart apples spill across a light, flaky pie crust and are topped with crispy crumble. I can still taste it. 98
Ambiance: The wooden floors are pretty to look at if you are sitting in a booth along the wall, but if you are in the main room, they make it noisy. Especially when the bar is busy. Low lights and white tablecloths. 88
