Dallas Observer‘s Hanna Raskin: You Are Wrong About Dallas

Pay no attention to Tim. He’s clueless. However, I’ll say this about Dallas Observer restaurant critic, Hanna Raskin: she’s got ginormus matzah balls. I just finished a quick read of her cover story “Homesick Restaurants: How Dallas Became a Dining Nowhereville.” It’s is an interesting read, but I have a few problems with some of her observations. Like:

“The Dallas dining scene is broken, as anyone who’s eaten out lately can attest. It’s slipped from being a city that drew international attention for its renegade restaurants to a town where corporations serve as tastemakers, chefs aren’t taking chances and customers are so stingy with their food dollars that restaurants can’t engage in the type of fine-dining play that distinguishes cities such as Chicago and San Francisco.”

Well Hanna, “eat out lately” is all you have done. Hence your statement: “Atlanta has grits, Chicago has pizza, Memphis has barbecue and Dallas has—well, mussels.” Mussels are a trend (with chorizo!). You are right: We aren’t San Francisco or Chicago (or Los Angeles), we are Dallas. So, we don’t have what they have and that makes us broken? Yikes! Another outsider’s perspective on what we need.

At the risk of sounding like a female dog, I ask you why you chose to print this:

“Many chefs who chant the organic, local, seasonal mantra advocate a hands-off approach to cooking. “Chefs need to let ingredients speak for themselves,” Dallas Morning News critic Leslie Brenner wrote in her prescription for the city’s restaurants, published last summer.”

I’ve been writing about food here for 14 years. Why didn’t you call me?

Horrors!  Sharon Hage closed York Street! Avner Samuel reinvented himself again! Cool it.  Sharon will be back and Avner’s ability to shed his skin every few years and open another concept is, and has been for 30 years, an important dynamic here.  Oh, and by the way, Avner was an integral part of the “Gang of Five.” Born in Jerusalem, he cooked all over Europe before moving to Dallas in the early 80s and started making tortilla soup from scratch at the Mansion. Stephan and Dean will confirm his influence. They all learned a lot about their techniques and regional ingredients from the Mexicans in their kitchens. One of which, Amador Mora, now has his own restaurant, Maximo.

Dallas has ALWAYS been the way you find it now. Our cuisine sprung from cowboys and Mexicans, not a gold rush and a culture filled with ethnic neighborhoods. We have a long history of Tex-Mex. And chili. And Helen Corbitt’s casseroles (Have you eaten at the Zodiac Room? There’s some vintage Dallas food there.)

“Dallas’ untethered cuisine is so thoroughly out-of-step with how most epicureans are now thinking that the city’s begun to exist in a sort of self-imposed isolation, a decidedly unhealthy position for a city with culinary ambitions.”

Oh my head. I believe the kitchens in Dallas are more vibrant and progressive now than they have been in years. We have more farmers markets; we have a stronger “eat local” movement; we have vegetarian and vegan. Our locavore scene may not be as big as other cities, but it’s a hell of a lot bigger than it was ten years ago or even five years ago. TWO years ago. We are not broken. Quit trying to fix us. Grrr.

UPDATE: A smart chef in town just called me to say, “Dallas diners are the problem. They talk about being epicureans but at the end of the day they prefer to go to Houston’s.”

Comments

  • carla p.

    Amen, Nancy. Raskin, whose reviews could all be retitled with “It Was So Much Better Back Where I Come From,” writes as if she has no passion for her work and even less for Texas and Texans. Sad.

    You know the article is BS when, if she had interviewed just one or two different people, she could have “proved” the exact opposite of her own point and written that Dallas restauranteurs’ cosmopolitan cuisine is exciting and unique. Outsiders’ concern for “authenticity” is a trend in and of itself.

  • Lunch Boy

    It’s all you can do to write horse-feathered articles such as Hannah did when you have a withering budget. Follow her reviews and you will see she has more than one hand tied when it comes to budgetary restraints. Why do you think every decent writer jumped ship?

    She took the job no one wanted. Otherwise she seems perfectly capable.

  • Marc

    You will have to speak baby talk and inform Hanna why the Gang of Five is significant to Dallas, she wasn’t alive then.

  • Justin

    @carla p.

    I agree with you that it seems’s Raskin is overwhelmingly negative. Until her generally favorable review of Bambu on 11/25 I was wondering if she would ever find anything she liked in Dallas.

  • Stacy L.

    Good grief. It’s not like she bought ad space on the side of a Fort Worth bus and told you the Dallas dining scene didn’t exist at all.

    Oh wait, she kind of did.

  • Tim Rogers

    Let’s rise above the ad hominem attacks. It doesn’t matter how old Raskin is. It can’t be ignored that Pyles, from his quotes, agrees with Raskin’s take. Says he in the story:

    “I know we’re not a great dining city. It’s hard to accept that. I thought we’d be further along, but we’re not.”

    I do agree, though, that she should have called you, Nancy. You’ve got more institutional knowledge than anyone writing in Dallas now.

  • carla p.

    You’re right, Tim. If Stephan Pyles says it’s true, it must be.

    I see no evidence that Raskin did her research. I see that she phoned up a couple of big names who probably feel left out and left behind of the real, interesting dining scene that would disprove her entire assertion if she’d … researched it.

  • Justin A.

    I find Nancy’s parochialism and scortched earth politics annoying. I like outsider’s P.O.V., even if it does not always jive with my opinion.

  • Old Guy

    To quote:

    UPDATE: A smart chef in town just called me to say, “Dallas diners are the problem. They talk about being epicureans but at the end of the day they prefer to go to Houston’s.”

    I just had lunch at Hillstone/Houston’s – food was great, service was good, atmosphere is warm and everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves.

    Yes, it’s expensive but I know every time I go there I will have a pleasant experience.

    So what’s wrong with me?

  • BoHan

    carla, you are so right. only people from texas should be allowed to right about texas food, and it should always be accompanied by a picture of Nancy Nichols dressed as a german beermaid posing next to Shannon Wynne, because that just shouts integrity.

  • yeah…um

    why didn’t she talk with Graham Dodds? David Ugyur? Matt Spillers? Kelly Hightower?

    All are fantastic chefs and visionaries who seem to really be progressing the Dallas scene.

    Tim Byres got like all of TWO sentences in, for crying out loud!

  • Wes Mantooth

    Can we get a webcam setup for live viewing of the upcoming Nancy/Tim slapfight? I’ll take Nancy and the third round.

  • Siobhan

    Thank you! Just because Dallas doesn’t have a signature dish doesn’t mean the dining scene is “broken.” I find it sad that she focused mainly on high-end dining, because that’s not where the soul is. Dallas is in a both spot both geographically and culturally. Dallas is close to the South, with its hearty yet simple cuisine. It’s close to the Southwest, with its spicy bold cuisine. And since we’re located in North Texas, there’s even some Midwest influences. Because Dallas has large technology and oil industries, we have sizable concentrations of Asian and Middle Eastern/Indian populations. We’re also right next to Mexico, so we have a lot of Latino flavor. In Dallas, you get a great combination of American cuisine, and can get authentic cuisine from just about any world culture. We don’t need a signature dish. We have it all!
    I do agree with increasing the “Eat Local” movement, but just because it’s not universal doesn’t mean our dining scene is broken. Dallas is a great place to eat!

  • Tim Rogers

    @Wes Mantooth: you forget about Nancy’s monkey paw. In a slapfight, I win. Now, if it’s mixed martial arts, that’s another matter.

  • Amy S

    Let’s give some credit to Caroline Rose Hunt, whose purchase of the Mansion (in the late ’70’s?) including taking a risk on new cuisine in Dallas. Other notable chef graduates from those early days includes Richard Chamberlain, and the late great Ricky Tillman.

  • The Big Guy

    Can you explain to me what Hanna’s religion has to do with your critique of her argument?

  • Hanna’s religion? I have no idea what you are talking about. Wes, I can whip time with one speed dial to his wife. No effort.

  • @Old Guy:

    Obviously, you’re not epicurean enough.

  • Scagnetti

    It’s times like this that I wish Harvey Goff was still around to give his side of the Dallas dining scene.

  • The Big Guy

    NN – that’s bull$hit. You wrote “she’s got ginormus matzah balls.” for a reason? I am sure it’s just the usual “wink wink” subterranean Dallas antisemitism boiling over. Maybe you are pissed becuase she might put a dent in your kickbacks from crappy restaurants you over review?

  • The Big Guy

    @Scagnetti. Harvey Goff was a local owner who served decent food at a fair price for decades. Can we think of any non-corporate spot that we have today that will be her in 20 years?

    Isn’t that a lot of Raskin’s point?

  • Matt

    The problem with these types of articles is that they’re built on an idea that isn’t quantifiable. When you’re going so far as to declare something as “broken,” and present it in a journalistic format you want people to take seriously, there ought to be some sort of hard evidence – statistics, comparisons, etc. – to prove your point. With food and music and film and these things that affect people so differently, it’s quite difficult to single out an entire scene and declare it to be “broken.” (I know I keep harping on that word, but its usage and prominence bothered me reading Raskin’s piece.)

    I have nothing against Raskin, and this was an interesting read. It’s just irresponsible, to me. And that’s not because she’s been here for three months or whatever, it’s that she based this article where she essentially damned the city’s cuisine – or severely discounted it, at least – on an unverifiable opinion. I’m sure if she spent more time with other chefs she’d get opposite opinions. And maybe she did, but something kept her from including it. Who knows, I’m just calling it as I see it.

    Nevertheless, I can’t imagine that this city is populated with people who make their living and support their livelihood on the back of something they also feel is “broken.” It feels like quite the slight to a lot of these folks who have worked diligently to hone their own styles, which may be a bit different than those in the past. But, that by no means is a bad thing, and it’s certainly not worth the designation of the dining scene that Raskin flaunts throughout her piece.

    As Siobahn mentioned a few posts up, Dallas feels like more of a melting pot of cuisines than many cities I’ve spent time in, and that’s fine. I’d rather live in a city that has quality in its variations than one dominated by a specific type or course. But then again, that’s my opinion, and not one that I’d use for the foundation of a six-page cover story, where the only verifiable statistic is the amount of ruffled feathers after it’s printed or posted online.

  • Big Guy–oh please. Swedish meatballs didn’t have the same ring. I do not take kickbacks and am certainly not antisemitic. However, you are shouting slander.

  • Brian M

    Seems the rich folks aren’t epicureans and the epicureans don’t have the money to keep the interesting places open, or even started in the first place.

  • The Big Guy

    NN – You are intellectually dishonest. You made the unmistakable “Jew” reference, and have now made a pathetic attempt at defending it.

    Again – what does Hanna’s religion have to do with the validity of her argument?

  • nothing

  • demigodh

    For me, it’s hard to disagree with Hanna. Compared to other major metropolitan cities, the food scene is very lacking in Dallas. Now, I don’t agree with her that we’re worse off now than we were 15 years ago (the extent of my food memory in Dallas) but I agree that Dallasites (in general) prefer style over substance. I find, in Dallas more than anywhere else, that there is a direct inverse relationship between the quality and popularity of a restaurant.

  • Tim Rogers

    Oh, my goodness. I didn’t know Raskin is Jew. If I’d known that, I’d never have even picked up a copy of the Observer.

  • MNS

    I think what some of this misses is that the restaurant business is based on profitability. There is nothing wrong with Dallas diners…they know what they like and are clearly willing to pay for that. We have more restaurants per capita than New York City. It frustrates all of us there are so few adventurous places and yet the landscape is littered with valiant attempts that were unsuccessful. Ms. Brenner’s review of Abacus or Fearing’s were examples of this misperception…people here happily pay a lot for well prepared food that doesn’t challenge them accompanied by good service and ambiance. That is not a reason to bash a restaurant. York Street failed in many ways because those who are willing to pay for quality and creativeness are too few. Ms. Raskin may misunderstand that and I would encourage her and Ms. Brenner to use their position to help educate Dallasites about interesting and creative cooking instead of whining about a lack of a Dallas identity. Once Dallasites are willing to pay for newer cuisine, I guarantee it will be found in abundance. There is no shortage of kitchen talent here!

  • Scagnetti

    @Brian M: You are exactly right.

    I’ve always felt that Dallas prided itself on this unsophisticated, “we’re Texas” attitude hence the wild popularity of expensive steakhouses which to me, and I enjoy those places too, are nothing more than high end meat and potatoes restos.

  • Epifanio

    Have any of you who think our dining scene is broken ever eaten at The Mansion? Bijoux? York Street? Nana? The French Room? Tei An? Those restaurants are/were innovative and would fare very well against any Michelin ranked restaurant in Vegas, San Fran or New York. Hanna’s way off base here. It’s offensive to me and, I might think, to the many talented culinary professionals and many sophisticated diners in Dallas. And to The Big Guy . . . shut your pupiklech hole.

  • downtowner

    What does it take to show that dining isn’t dead? Yeah, Sharon Hage closed York Street, and Avner moved to a different concept. But since I moved to Dallas in 2006, Dallas has seen the opening of: Tei An, Screen Door, Charlie Palmer’s, Five Sixty, Fearing’s, the various Neighborhood Services, Horne & Dekker, Samar, Bolsa, Nova, and if you want to count it as a separate concept, Fuego. Stephen Pyles opened in Nov. 2005. Lucia should be open now. Those are just the ones I can think off the top of my head.

  • JI

    MNS said it perfectly.

  • The Big Guy

    NN – Then why point it out in your review. To cast Raskin as “the other”? To question the validity of her opinion? It is sheer idiocy to say attack someone as an “Outsider” as a reason to disagree with their opinion.
    Wick has shown some courage in stating opinions about Dallas that were not protective of the status quo. It makes Dallas a better city when people are willing to do this. Your response to her article was antisemitic, trite, provincial and mostly…dumb.

  • JT

    For the record, Big Guy, just because Nancy dates restaurateurs, it does not constitute a kickback.

  • The Big Guy

    @JT – Then he’s doing it wrong.

  • Van

    “Dallas has done such a good job of disguising its edible traditions that few eaters—here or elsewhere—can confidently describe the city’s cuisine. Atlanta has grits, Chicago has pizza, Memphis has barbecue and Dallas has—well, mussels.”

    She thinks mussels outweigh Tex-Mex and steak as the definitive Dallas cuisine? Can someone give me a one word description that defines NYC’s cuisine? I can’t. Not comparing NYC to Dallas, just saying having some diversity is not necessarily a bad thing. Also, Chicago has a lot more than pizza. Atlanta has grits? Well there is something to crow about.

  • Lover of all races

    @Big Guy: You couldn’t be further off base in hurling the charge of being anti-Semitic at Nancy. She is too polite to point out that her best friend (and former housemate) is a Jew and that she was engaged to a Jew at one time (and remains great friends with him). The only things “Big” about you are your mouth and the last part of the anatomy to clear the fence.

  • Dr. Kildare

    @ The Big Guy – Surgeons love it when people like you show up on the operating table because there are only two body parts – the ass hole and the mouth piece (and they are interchangeable).

  • Justin

    @The Big Guy

    You’re really straining the limits of credulity on the whole “ginormous matzah balls” = anti-semitism front. If she had said Raskin had “grande heuvos” instead would you accuse her of hating Mexicans?

  • The Big Guy

    @Loar – what does that have to do with her making sure her readers knew that Hana was Jewish? I asked her what that fact (which she clearly communicated to the readers) had to do with validity of Raskin’s argument. NN responded “nothing”. My question still stands. Why is it in there, if not to communicate Raskin’s religion? And btw – “Are Jewish”, not “Is a Jew”. Your ignorance is showing. Also Ad hominem abuse is fun! It really says a lot more about you than about me.

  • The Big Guy

    @Dr. K – Ad hominem abuse is fun! It really says a lot more about you than about me.

  • The Big Guy

    @Justin. Words have meaning. If she had used another colloquialism, that would have a meaning also. Identifying Raskin as Jewish almost immediately in her piece was there for a reason? It’s pretty clear – right?
    1) She’s not “from here”
    2) She’s not “one of us”
    To answer your question: I would say if Hanna Raskin was Latino (a Latina?), you could ask someone who is Latino….

  • Ganesha

    Hanna makes a point of being very Jewish every chance she gets, so NN is not out of school by using the silly matzoh ball reference. It was cute and it’s obvious that some folk here have little or no sense of humor.

    Fact of the matter is that Hanna wrote the story to capture attention to her dying rag without regard to facts or accurate quotes. More evil lies beneath the under belly of the story than meets the eye. Time will tell.

  • KitchenDoor

    The smartest thing Nancy said is Dallas is what it is. We don’t have the fertile land and great produce of San Francisco. How can we compete with that? How can we compete with the ethnicity of Chicago neighborhoods? We kicked ass when we gave the world Southwestern cuisine. We have made a mark on the international stage. We are seeing lots more local stuff all over town. I don’t always agree with Nancy but at least she and Hanna bring some bright ideas to the table. Despite a few of the idiot commentors above, I enjoyed the discussion. And I am Jewish!!

  • JI

    I’m pretty sure Nancy’s Matzah ball comment was more about the balls and less about the matzah. It was a food reference play on words. Get over it.

    (and if Hanna is Jewish, I still fail to see how the comment makes a difference. It wasn’t slanderous.)

  • @Big Guy

    i’m jewish and know several of nancy’s closest friends who are jewish. not to make the “she has jewish friends, so she can’t be antisemetic” arguement…but nancy is simply not antisemitic.

    i’d bet my last shekel on it.

    on the blog post:

    this is taking the tone of a debate when it should be a discussion. food is subjective. we can praise the hard working chefs, entrepreneurs and critics that work so hard to make Dallas the food town that it is…
    and at the same time talk about the ways that Dallas can be an even better food town.

    can’t we?

    If outsiders came to our city and in unison shouted “This is an amazing food town!”, would we write off their opinions?

    of course not.

    Dallas is not San Fran, its not NYC and its not Chicago. It’s also not Sioux City. Its a level below the truly great american food cities and better than most everywhere else.

    SHOULDN’T we compare ourselves to the next tier up? Shouldn’t the Rangers ask themselves how to beat the Yankees? One year, it might just happen!

    So let’s rejoice in what we do well, let’s be honest about what we don’t and keep striving for better.

    What’s wrong with that?

  • JI

    Another thing: you commenters immediately judge harsh reviews of your beloved city’s culinary scene as sensationalist journalism intended to salvage a “dying rag.”

    Idiots. Open your eyes.

  • Logan

    The big guy CANNOT be serious…tell me you’re not serious…

  • luniz

    good post from jonfromtjs….as usual.

  • tinkerbell

    @Big Guy-

    If you seek to be offended, you will be. You, sir, are working overtime.

  • Justin

    @The Big Guy,

    You’ve accomplished some masterful trolling sir, hats off to you. You succeeded in completely misdirecting the point of the post from the merits of Raskin’s article to whether or not Nancy hates her some jews. Are you some how associated with The DO (I hope not, The DO is too important to honest journalism in Dallas for antics like this) or do you simply have an axe to grind with Nancy?

  • Stephan Pyles

    What I said Tim, was that it is disappointing that Dallas is not further up the gastronomic scale based on our momentum in the 1980s. Dallas is a second tier culinary city and I had once hoped that it would rise to the higher ranks. Of course I believe we are a great dining city, we’re just not New York or Chicago. You should know how a journalist can turn a phrase to suit their story.

  • wja4507

    Where’s Raskin’s solution to her perceived problem? Six online pages and no attempt at a solution.

    I challenge Raskin to this:

    Go back, bullet-point the myriad issues to clarify them, re-interview the cited and other chefs with an aim toward fixing those bullet-points, and publish a proposed solution (or two or more).

    To play off the baseball reference above: it’s real easy to call the pitches, much harder to step up to the plate (pun intended) and take a swing.

  • Glenn Campbell

    This was a great article that had to be written. The Dallas restaurant scene sucks, and it has for some time. I point to the opening of Voltaire in Plano as the beginning of the end. It ushered in the half-assed “vegas-ification” of the scene. The half assed major media food writers also have something to do w/ it as they reward bad behavior as it relates to creating a local identity.

    No wonder nn shills for tj’s every opportunity she gets— they’re buddies

  • Mike

    @Glenn I agree. Food writers have thanked Tristan’ed us to the point where we are drowning in lobster mac and cheese, mussels, and short rib sliders in good looking restaurants w posh drink lists.

  • David Hartford

    I think a few alluded to the fact that Hannah wrote this in order to spur controversy and it seems to have worked. But with that she also lost credibility. read what Pyles just said. She conjured the story and bent quotes to suit her needs.

    If these writers are not pleased with the sandbox they landed in it might be time to move along. Perhaps NYC and LA have a spot for each of these scurrilous she-dogs.

  • big tex

    Grow up Glenn. Have you ever been to TJ’s?
    She shills for it because its good. Thats it.

  • @ Glenn Campbell

    “No wonder nn shills for tj’s every opportunity she gets— they’re buddies”

    The only times i have been in the same room as Nancy, she was masked. I literally would not recognize her if she walked into TJ’s today.

    I said i know her jewish FRIENDS. (Because all us jews know each other!)

    In direct response to your accusation of shilling, TJ’s has been recognized in 2010 by D Magazine, the Dallas Morning News, The Dallas Observer and been invited to take part in Taste of Dallas and the Dallas Food & Wine Festival. Clearly we’ve been doing some ass kissing, eh?

    Not fair on any account.

  • skeptic

    Food writers merely report what they perceive. While there is probably some accuracy to Haskin’s article, the problem remains that as a person who has been in Dallas for such a short time, she lacks the perspective to accurately assess the dining scene in Dallas in its entirety. Does she really think there is a better culinary city in North (or South) Carolina? My sister lives in Charleston. I know the dining scene in Charleston. Charleston, you are no Dallas! The food media have very little to do with the caliber of restaurants that exist (or don’t exist) in Dallas. The culinary scene in Dallas will improve when there are consumers to support innovation. One of our friends is a prominent chef in town and he tells a story of folks coming to his restaurant from other cities such as Tulsa, Tyler, or Shreveport. When they say “you should open a place like this in (fill in the city), we don’t have anything like this”, his response (to himself) is “there’s a reason. There’s no market”.

  • The Big Guy

    “The culinary scene in Dallas will improve when there are consumers to support innovation. ”

    This is the smartest thing written in all these posts

  • dallasboiler

    I agree with Stephan Pyles point, and I’d be disappointed if our established local chefs didn’t aim for Dallas to be a legitimate Tier 1 dining city. I think that it’s a notable accomplishment that some even try to argue that we belong in the same category given how we compare to those cities on size, diversity, history, and geography.

    How many cities of similar size can you think of that are as new as Dallas and as geographically ‘challenged’ that have much better dining scenes? I can think of only one, Las Vegas, and that’s due to its tourism industry. Otherwise, you’re looking at cities like Phoenix, San Antonio, Austin, Columbus, Charlotte, Memphis, and Denver. Those places all have a few good restaurants and maybe a signature cuisine (e.g.; Memphis ribs, etc.); but if I had to live 1 year dining in just one of those cities, I would pick Dallas for the breadth of choices and quality of the offerings that it has.

    I hope that Dallas’ best chefs keep aiming higher to bring new and interesting things to us; but I don’t see how unfavorable comparisons to New York, Chicago, L.A., etc. of the dining scene as a whole render Dallas’ as “broken”.

  • The Big Guy

    @dallasboiler –

    I have to disagree with your statement.

    Dining is Las Vegas is horrible, and in many ways is comparable to Dallas. Glitzy places, mediocre food. Las Vegas restaurants don’t have to be good, because the customers are not “regulars”. They get a steady stream of suckers. I would say, though, that Bouchon is excellent.

    The common theme in these posts, and in many conversations I have in about Dallas in general, is that what recommends Dallas is that it is “better than __________” or “cheaper to live in than _______________”.

    It is better than OKC, and cheaper than SFO.

    This does not make it GOOD, it just makes it better than the worse places.

    In addition, the fact that it is in the middle of no where is not really an excuse for the “triangle” of producers, chefs and consumers not to exist.

    The problem with Dallas cuisine is NOT that there are no chefs who can do inventive, local (if that’s what they dig, pun intended), interesting, high quality cuisine with a great dining experience. The problem is the CONSUMER in Dallas demands chain restaurants in strip centers, and they vote with their wallets.

  • DGirl

    Bruno Davaillon earned a Michelin star while he was chef of Alain Ducasse’s Mix in Vegas. He may be the only Michelin ranked chef in Dallas. True, Vegas doesn’t get the “regulars” that The Mansion gets here, but that didn’t stop the team at Mix from delivering excellence to every guest. And if you haven’t been to The Mansion lately, then go. A very diverse, innovative menu is wildly appreciated but the diners who go there. There are many regulars, many hotel guests and many special occasion diners who show up every night to enjoy Dallas’ best. This restaurant single handedly dispels the idea that Dallas dining isn’t good.

  • cp

    Did any of you read the opening 12 paragraphs of Hanna’s article? You don’t have to be from here to find the library and research archives of cookbooks from the 50’s. I think her point is that, at some point in the last century Dallas cooks were bold and daring, a quality not found much here any more- aside from Tex-Mex, and why should Tex Mex be the only thing that makes Dallas food “bold”?

    And yeah, scallops and mussels are the most boring food on the planet. The only things that set them apart from cardboard is what they are cooked in and served with. So, we have mussels here, big effing deal, so does every other two-bit town in the USA.

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  • linus

    am i commenter #67?

  • Brandy

    jon from tjs rocks.