When I Went: October 2011 – January 2012
Was That the Best Time of Year to Go? If you’re going to relax or if your vacation is a family affair, you should go in late summer or early fall. Although I arrived at the first of October, the weather felt more like June. Clear skies, plenty of sun to coat my skin in a bronzy Mediterranean tan, mountain passes open for jogging and biking, and beaches with miles of space for umbrellas thanks to the end of the high tourist season. But if you’re going to see-and-be-seen, you’ll want to arrive earlier; in June, maybe, when millionaires flock to Saint Tropez to eat a tarte tropezienne at Senequier while their yachts bounce in the harbor and their wives browse the shops in flowy linen pants and Yves Saint Laurent sunglasses. Of course, if you’re looking for holiday markets, rich cappuccinos piled with whipped cream, gingerbread, Hungarian brioche, or mulled wine with cinnamon and orange, then you’ve got to go at Christmas. The moral of the story? You can’t go wrong: Just go.
Why I Went There: After graduating college, I accepted an opportunity to live and work as a private English tutor in Beausoleil, France, a tiny mountain village just on the border of the principality of Monaco.
Who Went With Me? No one! I adventured across the ocean solo and made friends after arriving.
We Stayed Here: Although I was living in a private residence for the majority of my stay in France, when my family met up with me for Christmas we stayed at Le Méridien Beach Plaza, Monte Carlo. The location was fantastic! Just next to Larvotto Plage, and within 10 minutes of the Monte Carlo Casino and surrounding gardens (and shops, of course).
[mapimage url=”http%3A%2F%2Fmaps.google.com%2Fmaps%2Fapi%2Fstaticmap%3Fsize%3D200x200%26sensor%3Dfalse%26markers%3DMonteCarlo%2CMonaco%7CNice%2CFrance%7CEze%2CFrance%7CStPauldeVence%2CFrance%26zoom%3D9″]You Won’t Want to Miss: Monaco/Monte Carlo: Shop like a celebrity at Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Hermes, YSL, Gucci, and the most gorgeous Zara you’ll ever see. Plus, the Grand Casino, the Metropole Shopping Center, Le Jardin Japonais, the Prince’s Palace (and surrounding shops and alleyways), and Larvotto Plage. And, of course, you’ll need to take day trips. | Nice and Vieux Nice: Beautiful artisan shops, specialty stores with spices and coffees, pastries and pastas, and all the souvenir shops you could ever hope for. Stroll along the Promenade des Anglais; just don’t forget your camera. | Eze: Artisan goods including hand-painted coffee mugs and intricately crafted jewelry, a Fragonard perfume factory, plus a mountaintop garden that lets you see miles down the coastline. | Saint-Paul-de-Vence: For artists, for lovers, for art-lovers. Beautiful views, quaint shops, flavored mustards, wooden mixing bowls, jewelry, local masters selling canvases splashed in color. Stay to see the sunset. PS: If you have the time for longer trips, make your way to Cannes and Saint Tropez. They’re famous for good reason; you won’t be disappointed.
Eat Here: In Monaco/Monte Carlo: Breakfast pastries and coffee in the lobby of the Hotel de Paris. Careful about ordering anything else, though. The bill quickly becomes trés expensive. Lunch on the sidewalk patio of the Café de Paris. Wonderful salads, traditional French dishes. An espresso at the end of the meal (served with little chocolates or biscuits for dipping) is highly recommended. Lunch or a quick “pause de café” at Princesse Pirate, a combination boutique/restaurant with unique leather handbags, studded cashmere sweaters, and a varying selection of pies, tarts, brownies, coffees and teas. | In Nice: La Pizza for Italian-style fare, since you’re so close to the border of Italy. The eggplant pizza is to die for, and the tomato and buffalo mozzarella salad makes an excellent accompaniment. | In Saint-Paul-de-Vence: Le Saint Paul hotel. Enjoy a stunning multi-course lunch with interesting amuse-bouche elements dished up between; think ice cream with balsamic glaze or a delicate orange sorbet. The dessert platter of selected cheeses, fruit spreads and honey, the outdoor patio, the bread selection, and the wine list are standouts too.
Play Here: In Monaco/Monte Carlo: Brasserie Jimmy*z at Place du Casino
If I Went Again: I’d bring fewer pairs of high heels and more pairs of walking shoes (and by that I mean really stylish, really comfortable ballet flats). If you’re going out at night in Monte-Carlo, then by all means wear your Louboutins — and, if you really want to fit in, a fur coat and all the diamonds you own too. But during the day, tone it down (a little), and don’t spend money on a cab. Put on your Chanel flats and get lost walking up and down the cobblestone streets with your camera (and wallet) in tow. There are a thousand shops to peek into and just as many narrow stairways begging to be climbed that offer the most spectacular views of the city.
How Did You Get There From Dallas? I flew from Dallas to Madrid on American Airlines, then took a connecting flight to the Aéroport Nice Côte d’Azur on Iberia. But a word to the wise: if you don’t speak Spanish, connect through London. The Madrid airport is beautifully designed but extremely difficult to navigate, and although the majority of their airport security officers look like supermodels, most don’t speak English.
Other Tips For Fellow Travelers: Ladies: never, ever wear Nike shorts in public. All throughout Southern France, the style is elevated. Even the other runners I encountered while jogging or taking classes at the local club looked like they’d stepped right out of the pages of a magazine; their hair down, shimmery bronzer brushed across their cheekbones, a diamond pendant resting against a sleek racerback tank. Think of your time in Southern France as an opportunity to play dress-up, with Grace Kelly as your style inspiration. After all, she was the Princess of Monaco. Chiffon tunics layered over plunging one-piece swimsuits, gold gladiator sandals, oversized beach hats and tortoise-shell sunglasses, turquoise-colored wrap bracelets with dainty silver pendants. Whatever you don’t already own, you’ll find inside the Monte Carlo shops. So pack light, and leave room for stylish souvenirs! And men: no fanny packs. Ever. The same goes for the white socks-and-sandals look. Think narrow cut jeans and pointed leather boots. When in doubt, wear all black. You’ll thank me when you get your vacation photos back and you look like a local, not a tourist.
