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Business

Business Lunch: Loft 610

Urban sophistication and creative cuisine straddle the line between Frisco and Plano.

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photography by Doug Davis

WHY LOFT 610:
Lofts are cool. They’re the home of the hip: open spaces with concrete floors and exposed framework, all the better to inspire Bohemian ideals. At least, that’s the romantic take. In reality, lofts can also be drafty, noisy, and overpriced. But don’t tell that to Brian Twomey, the owner of Loft 610 Urban Restaurant and Lounge. His new North Plano restaurant—so far north that it borders Frisco—embraces all that is chic and ideal about lofts and recreates it in Granite Park, an antiseptic business strip that hugs Highway 121. Once inside, thankfully, the roar of the highway and cold concrete gives way to 9,000 square feet of exposed brick, warm wood accents, black leather, and plenty of loft-like exposed steel. Designed by Dallas firm Zero 3, it’s a handsome, multilevel space that feels downtown cool minus the pretense and forced formality of its ilk to the south. At Loft 610, in other words, you get style and substance without sacrificing suburban comfort.

LOFTY ASPIRATIONS: Loft 610’s good looks are mirrored by its tasty fare, like calamari corn dogs (above left) and Asian rain salmon with orange-scented jasmine rice (above right).
photography by Doug Davis

WHAT TO EAT:
Likewise, the menu from Executive Chef Craig Latshaw and Chef de Cuisine Marcos Rodriguez is littered with both familiar New American fare and clever twists. Take, for instance, calamari. Latshaw makes it interesting again by skewering it, dipping it in cornmeal batter, and frying it, transforming the normally tired appetizer into a delicious “corn dog.” Another winning starter was crispy spring rolls stuffed with pomegranate and chili-braised duck. Meatloaf sliders were a tad under-seasoned but still satisfying, as was the side of habanero spoon bread that accompanied a savory, sage-brined pork tenderloin with boysenberry and molasses fig glaze. Vegetarians will delight in the arancini, lemon risotto cakes served with roasted chanterelles and thyme-cured tomatoes. Fear not, lovers of beef: Loft 610 also does steak exceedingly well, as evidenced by a particularly memorable seven-ounce beef tenderloin cooked a perfect medium rare.

WHERE TO SIT:
The dining room is spacious, though sitting along the leather banquette that bisects the room does put you elbow to elbow with your fellow diners. Booth seating along the window provides the best privacy. The intimate library will seat up to 20 but larger parties can book the upstairs loft, which accommodates 50.

THE DETAILS
Loft 610
5760 Highway 121, Plano, 972-377-2500

The food:
New American with a modern flair

The Cost:
$$$ (Average lunch entree price: $17)

Who’s There:
Plano and Frisco suits

Wi-fi: Yes

Full bar: Yes

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