20. Perry’s Steakhouse & Grille
Overall Score: 76.32
2000 McKinney Ave., Ste. 100.
Steak: What started out in 1979 as a butcher shop in Houston is now a burgeoning chain of upscale steakhouses with nine locations in Texas. All of the steaks are dry aged, seasoned with kosher salt, pepper, and herb butter. Scores: filet (12 oz., $39.95) 96, cowboy rib-eye (22 oz., $41.95) 96
Service: The restaurant was out of control. I felt like a hockey player juking and jiving my way past rushing waiters and busboys as I attempted to skate to the ladies room. Our server was in the weeds all night. The managers, equipped with Secret Service-style earpieces, made a heroic effort to help, but they lost the battle and the war. The meal took three and a half hours. 60
Wine sell: Exhausting back-and-forth exchange between our server and two managers. Finally one promised an off-the-menu “hidden gem from Oregon.” Twenty minutes later, our server showed up with a bottle of on-the-menu Foley Pinot Noir from Santa Rosa, California, for exactly $75. 60
Shrimp: The aroma of ammonia hit us before the behemoth crushed-ice sculpture decorated with wimpy shrimp hit the table. It went back to the kitchen, but the $12.95 charge stayed on our bill. (U-16-20, $12.95) 0
Salads: I’ll make this short: the chopped salad was a huge bowl of julienne iceberg, chives, bacon, cherry tomatoes, and cheddar cheese, none of which you could taste for the pool of red wine vinegar at the bottom. 60
Vegetables: Mushrooms sautéed in a lot of butter and a little bit of sherry. 89
Potatoes: Quartered, fried in bacon fat, and sautéed with onion and garlic. 91
Dessert: Soft butterscotch bread pudding studded with chocolate chips, surrounded by caramel, and covered with candied walnuts and toasted homemade marshmallows. 90
Ambiance: The interior dining room is dark, with booths and tables arranged for privacy. The outdoor patio has lounge seating for those spilling out of the piano bar. 93
