6. Morton’s The Steakhouse
Overall Score: 92.53
2222 McKinney Ave., Ste. 200.
Steak: Both steaks were about 2 inches thick, which made for a hearty rib-eye but a paltry filet. The latter comes with creamed spinach and salad. Scores: filet (12 oz., $48) 92, bone-in rib-eye (22 oz., $52) 97
Service: Friendly, professional, well-trained—right down to the valet who introduced himself and shook our hand. You can feel the corporate training. The servers perform like synchronized swimmers. 96
Wine sell: Our server was clueless, but he immediately ran for the sommelier. He calculated our scenario rather quickly into a Parallele 45 Côtes du Rhône 2007. “It’s a third-run grape and is less expensive than other wines produced in that area,” he said. He took our $75 budget and turned it into a $50 bottle of grocery-store wine. 85
Shrimp: Three “colossal Thai shrimp” are normally served, but we, and the other tables we could see, received four. “Kitchen’s feeling generous,” said the server. (U-6-8, $20.50) 95
Salads: Choices are basic steakhouse standards, but their idea of a wedge is a “center-sliced” cut of iceberg topped with blue cheese crumbles, bacon, diced tomatoes, and hard-boiled egg. Pretty, but not as crunchy as I like. Beefsteak tomatoes in February were not the right choice. 80
Vegetables: Hurray for the creamed spinach. You could actually detect the earthy mineral taste of the greens under the thin cream sauce. We also enjoyed the sautéed small button mushrooms served in a beefy broth. 93
Potatoes: The Lyonnaise potatoes should come with a defibrillator. They are baked and sautéed in bacon grease with thinly sliced onions. 92
Dessert: The souffles might be Morton’s signature dessert, but we found the Grand Marnier version bland. We pushed it aside for “Morton’s legendary” hot chocolate cake with the hot fudge center and vanilla bean ice cream. 92
Ambiance: Morton’s has moved into some fancy digs in Uptown. The new interior is a throwback to the original Morton’s in Chicago but slightly more contemporary. Warm woods, exposed brick walls, and an open kitchen create a much sexier place for the power brokers in suits to hang. 93
