No doubt this restaurant occupies an enviable spot, the patio overlooking the street life of Travis Walk, where there’s a constant parade of beaus and their beauties heading to next-door Samba Room or down-the-street Cafe Madrid. When there’s live music nearby, you can enjoy it while perched under an umbrella with your wine—and what a selection it is, thanks to the owners Sonia and Brian Black.
But inside is where the romance is, with flickering candles and white tablecloths in a warm, Tuscanesque setting. Start with the mussels, plump little things steamed in an irresistible broth of white wine, garlic, spinach, and the unexpected zing of jalapeños. Interesting was the carpaccio of beef, the paper-thin meat wrapped around a mound of spicy arugula, the latter overwhelming the former once the package was deconstructed. Of the Italian-inspired mains, tortelloni and jumbo lump crab was spot on, its pillows of pasta dabbed with soft lumps of sweet crabmeat swimming in a sea of cremini mushrooms, oven-dried tomatoes, and a balsamella (béchamel) sauce. Red meat in the form of a center-cut filet (fancied up with forest mushroom ragu and roma tomato Gorgonzola demi-glace) was disappointing, as it was missing the velvety texture of a true tenderloin, and it arrived medium-well instead of the requested medium, which upped the toughness. However, Kobe beef flat-iron steak was a knockout, hot pink in the middle and melty tender. Crème brûlée, with a hint of Vermont maple syrup and served with light-as-meringue ginger snaps, was the creamiest, dreamiest sweet treat to cross our lips this year. 4514 Travis St., Ste. 201. 214-559-3888. $$-$$$.
Update: Il Sole has closed.
