Travel

Cancun Refined

Forget what you know about this Mexican party town. At Paraiso de la Bonita Resort, serenity supersedes revelry. 

I KNOW WHAT YOU’RE THINKING. YOU’RE too old to go to Cancun, the longtime mecca of spring break vacations, where 17-year-olds go to do tequila body shots and other unseemly things. Or perhaps you’re thinking it’s not the authentic Mexican experience that you crave because Cancun is more American than, well, America, with wall-to-wall Pizza Huts, Burger Kings, Outback Steakhouses, and Office Depots.

But thankfully Cancun is giving us a new reason to take the less than three-hour flight. You only need to travel about 20 minutes south of the city limits to find yourself mentally secluded from the frenetic crowds at Coco Bongo, Daddy O’s, and the Palm. For the same cab fare that it takes to get into the action, you can find yourself settled into a high-end resort on the beaches of Petenpich Bay, where you can spend lazy days in absolute splendor and bliss.

Paraiso de la Bonita Resort & Thalasso, which opened in February 2002 along the Caribbean’s posh Mayan Riviera, is the latest addition to the Mexican seaside resorts. Like its upscale counterparts, this boutique hotel (only 90 suites) has spacious one- and two-bedroom accommodations, sprawling acreage, gorgeous views of the ocean from every room, and impeccable service. The architecture is reminiscent of the great Mexican haciendas on the Yucatan peninsula, and each suite features unpolished marble floors, cedar-beamed ceilings, a full-size living area, an outdoor terrace, and the appropriate accoutrements in one of six themes, such as African, Mediterranean, and Asian. The unique décor of the main spaces
of the property is a hodgepodge of pieces painstakingly collected by the owners from their travels around the world, including the Indonesian tigers that greet you just past the threshold and the eclectic pottery that flanks the foyer. The resort is so homey, in fact, that pictures of the owners and past guests appear in beautiful frames around the Library Bar, our second favorite spot to rest (first is the pool, of course). After a long day of sunbathing and spa treatments, settle into one of the overstuffed couches and enjoy a Mariachi or El Yucatan, both signature concoctions of the hotel.

But what sets this property apart from the others is the thalasso spa, the first certified thalasso in Mexico and one of only two in the Americas (the other is in Venezuela).

I admit that when I first read about Paraiso de la Bonita, I thought it was just another seaside resort and spa, the kind of place where you sunbathe in the morning, eat lunch poolside at noon, followed by a facial and a quick steam before cocktail hour. But thalassotherapy is different. It’s an ancient regimen that uses fresh, heated seawater to encourage an exchange of minerals and toxins between the blood and the water, which is why you’ll only find thalasso centers next to the ocean. The French are so convinced of the healing properties of seawater that for years the health care system reimbursed for physical therapy at thalasso centers, where people often went for relief from joint trouble and other athletic injuries. Modern thalassotherapy, in fact, began in 1964 when French cycling champion Louison Bobet created a center in Quiberon after experiencing the effects of seawater treatments. France now has some 40 thalasso centers, more than the rest of the world combined.

In recent years, thalassotherapy practitioners have made great strides in treating “illnesses” such as fatigue, stress, depression, obesity, and joint and back pain, which I suspect is as much an indicator of the changing times as it is evidence that thalassotherapy is being marketed to the American client. That said, it’s no surprise that Paraiso’s spa offers hydrotherapy treatments (immersion hydro-massage, pressurized jet bath massage, seawater Jacuzzi), alongside more traditional treatments (Swedish massage and aromatherapy facial) and “slimming” wraps that “re-contour” and “minimize fatty deposits.” A doctor is on-site—though consultations are optional—to offer medical advice about the best course of action for your treatments based on your medical history and what you hope to get out of thalassotherapy, whether it is stress relief or pain reduction. Because I am in good health, the doctor encouraged me to choose my own treatments—a French body polish (my skin was as smooth as silk), followed by an under-affusion massage, which combines the benefits of marine water with a deep tissue massage. Put simply, I was showered with seawater while I lay on the table and received my massage. It was certainly different—and oddly refreshing.

Once I’d been exfoliated, rinsed, massaged, and hydrotherapied, I claimed a spot by the enormous, blue-tiled pool that anchors the property. Chaise lounges pour deux surround the serene water, where the unobtrusive staff attend to your needs as you sit back, eyes closed, and soak in the sun. The only sounds you hear are the waves crashing just beyond the rim of the pool, save for an occasional cry from the peacocks (yes, peacocks) that roam free on the grounds.

Though I dare say you’ll spend most of your time in the pool—if not cozied up to your sweetheart in the chaise lounge then on the concrete “chairs” in the shallow center of the pool—the hotel staff (call them “guest assistants,” please) arrange plenty of daytime activities both on and off the water. For starters, Paraiso de la Bonita is situated just a shell’s toss from the second largest barrier reef in the world, so guests can snorkel just off the coast of the property in the clear Caribbean waters, where an expert guide points out the brain coral, sea cucumbers, trumpet fish, lobster, and sting rays as they swim by. Scuba diving (including a course for certification, if necessary) can also be arranged, as well as kayaking, wind surfing, and sunfish sailing. You can also rely on resort staff to set up day excursions to the architectural ruins at Chichen Itza, Tulum, Coba, or Ek Balam if you’re more inclined to explore the land than the sea.

Lest I forget the most important part of any getaway—the food—I will take a moment to describe the cuisine, which is expertly prepared by executive chef and Frenchman Fabrice Guisset. I should also mention that if you’re counting calories, there are several “spa” options for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, both on the room service menu and in the dining room, that make it easy to watch what you eat but still indulge in fresh seafood and inspired Mexican creations. For example, (when I was feeling good) I “indulged” in an egg-white omelet filled with mushrooms and herbs for breakfast and a simple Chilean salmon fillet for lunch. Both were so satisfying that I forgot I was being health-conscious.

However, I highly recommend you skip all that calorie-counting nonsense (I caved after one day) and go straight for the dishes that excite your taste buds. For lunch by the pool, order the grilled pepito beef sandwich smothered in guacamole and served with waffled papas fritas or the grouper ceviche Yucatan style, beautifully presented on a mound of avocado. But dinner is where Chef Guisset truly shines. At La Canoa, sautéed vegetables lovingly wrapped around creamy goat cheese was our favorite starter, followed by vanilla-pod skewers of plump shrimp anchored by a potato galette for the main course. Round out the evening with an apple and blackberry crumble with sweet cinnamon and ginger milk or deliciously fruity homemade sherbet, along with a shot glass (literally) of steaming mint tea, and you’ll be ready for bed in no time.

It’s hard to believe that only 12 miles away, the parties in downtown Cancun are just getting started. Thankfully, at Paraiso de la Bonita Resort, you’ll easily sleep through them.

JUST THE FACTS

HOW TO GET THERE

American Airlines flies nonstop daily to Cancun. For reservations call 800-433-7300 or visit www.aa.com. The resort, which is 12 miles from Cancun International Airport, will arrange a complimentary shuttle to and from the airport.

WHERE TO STAY