RESTAURANTS Steak Out

THE NEWEST BIO-NAME STEAKHOUSE in town is the Addison location of Morton’s of Chicago, a very North Dallas place both in style and substance. Diners are waited on-overwhelmed, actually-by a team of cheery servers, beginning with the anchor-person, who wheels out a cart of raw cuts wrapped in Saran Wrap, then describes each option with the practiced precision of a TV pitchman selling a Bass-o-matic. Your porterhouse is from Iowa, your potato from Idaho, the wriggling live lobster began its life in the cold waters of… Didn’t Erma Bombeck do this bit? Morton’s features prime meats and aged steaks. The generously marbled raw meat is a turn-off for some; but it demonstrates what makes Morton’s succulent steaks different from the ones you see in your supermarket, Morton’s menu is much more varied than traditional steakhouses like Del Frisco’s. Those raised on spicy fajitas and saucy sauté will appreciate the Cajun rib-eye with a blackened crust and inventive appetizers like sea scallops with apricot chutney. 14831 Midway Road between Spring Valley and Belt Line, Addison. 214-233-5858. Original location:501 Elm Street at Houston, Dallas. 214-741-2277.

Another sophisticated, new-style steak-house is Bob’s Steak & Chop House in Oak Lawn in the location formerly occupied by Del Frisco’s. However, new owner Boh Sambol has added his own touches, which include some lighter menu items, spit-roasted chicken, and the catch of the day. The steaks are prime and the setting is nostalgic with dark wood, leather booths, white tablecloths, and Frank Sinatra and Patsy Cline playing in the background. 4300 Lemmon Avenue at Wycliff, Dallas. 214-528-9446.

Chamberlain’s Prime Chop House, also in Addison. Chef-owner Richard Chamberlain took over the space vacated last: summer by Del Frisco’s. The redo by designer Paul Draper features antique European wine and liqueur lithographs, stylized gaslights, and a checkerboard marble floor in the bar. Try tenderloin coated with cracked pepper, stuffed with porto bello, the mushroom-of-the-moment, and served with Jack Daniel’s peppercorn sauce or slow-smoked prime rib. The menu also features sea scallop appetizers with mango chutney, horseradish-mashed potatoes; grilled ratatouille; and bread pudding made with Meyer’s rum raisin ice cream. Chamberlain plans to open a second location this fall in the Turtle Creek area. 5330 Belt Line Rd., Town Hall Square at Montfort, Addison. 214-934-2467.

Lawry’s The Prime Rib has the pampered, privileged look and feel of a private club with gleaming brass chandeliers, domed ceiling, potted palms, fresh flowers, and “silver” dining carts that showcase the standing rib roasts. A lighted cart is wheeled to your table; the succulent roast is sliced to your order and presented in a pool of its own juice. At lunchtime, thick prime steaks and enormous hand-carved roast beef sandwiches are the main appeal, but the menu also includes updated fare such as mesquite-grilled salmon and breast of chicken salad with ginger-lime sauce. English trifle with strawberries creates a scrumptious dessert for those with a sweet tooth; an award-winning wine list assures those who are out for an evening of lush indulgence that they will be well satisfied. 3008 Maple at Carlisle and Wolf, Dallas. 214-521-7777.

The Palm Restaurant on Ross and Market re-creates the ambience of its old New York counterpart with wooden booths, sawdust floors, and walls tiled with celebrity photos. Is that Walter Winchell calling in his column on an old stick phone ? Or have you wandered into the set for Guys and Dolls? Never mind, this place can do. Huge prime steaks at prime prices; even bigger lobsters at even bigger prices, split down the middle and riddled with cream before broiling. Bring your credit card-or better yet, your expense account. 701 Ross Avenue at Market, Dallas. 214-698-0470.

Paul’s Porterhouse is a rustic charmer with wagon wheels and wooden walls, but don’t let that rough-hewn facade fool you. This place is geared toward inventiveness as well as excellence. The menu features such non-steak innovations as Southwestern style sautEed cabrito, charbroiled Pecos rabbit, Red River game hens, and Texas quail. Vaquero is spicy, blackened roast prime rib of beef. Wine enthusiasts cheer Paul’s extensive, well-chosen wine list. The decor features 18 private collections including original Winchester rifles, Remington bronzes and pre-Columbian art. A favorite spot for Dallas Cowboys. 10960 Composite Drive, 1-35 and Walnut Hill, Dallas. 214-357-0279.

Who is a master of selling the sizzle along with the steak? Ruth’s Chris Steak House, the Dallas location of Ruth Fertel’s 46-steakhouse chain. Entrees come to the table on an oven-fired platter and sizzle in butter. In case you weren’t listening, the waiter will call your attention to the sizzle by telling you to hold up your napkin so you won’t get splattered. Are there steaks behind all that sizzle? You bet! Butter-soft, pink-in-the-middle prime beef, perfectly cooked and adroitly served. Lots of machismo here: sports scores are displayed on a tickertape crawler. The brick country French building overlooks a meandering stream, while an antique oak bar displays 1,200 bottles of wine. 5922 Cedar Springs Road at Inwood, Dallas. 214-902-8080.



RECIPE



The Vaquera

(Blackened, Grilled Steak)



If you want to join the legions of Dallasites returning to red meat but want to cook it yourself, here’s a recipe from Paul Sermas of Paul’s Porterhouse. While Paul’s recipe is for prime rib andhe makes it in his restaurant’s kitchen, you can rub the seasoning on steaks and throw them on the backyard grill for a perfect spring evening treat.



1 pound boneless roasted prime rib of beef, rare-or steaks for grilling.

Vaquera Seasoning:<BR>1/4 cup each;

Greek dried oregano

onion powder

garlic powder

paprika

1 level tablespoon red pepper

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 1/2 teaspoons black pepper

1/2 teaspoon salt



Combine seasonings in a jar; cover and shake up to mix (store extra in pantry). Spread both surfaces of prime rib with butter and completely cover with the mixed seasoning, then set aside. Heat an iron skillet over high flame until it smokes. Lay the slice of roast rib on the hot dry skillet and let brown less than a minute on each side. Don’t overcook; meat should be rare or medium rare. Serve immediately. (NOTE: Preparing this dish can create a lot of smoke; be sure to turn on your stove vents before you start).