18. Sullivan’s Steakhouse
Overall Score: 81.96
17795 N. Dallas Pkwy.
Steak: Unlike most of the steakhouses in this report, Sullivan’s isn’t considered a Prime steakhouse. It features hand-cut Choice meat that is wet aged. The menu has expanded and now includes stone crab, and some of the prices put the restaurant in the big league. Both steaks we tried had a nice char. Scores: filet (12 oz., $37) 85, bone-in Kansas City strip (18 oz., $38) 82
Service: Young, energetic, and sometimes forgetful. The man at our table loved the short-skirted servers in lacy stockings. Perhaps it was the kitchen’s fault, but ours disappeared between the main course and dessert. 80
Wine sell: It should either do away with a wine list or invest some money to educate its staff about the wines sitting in the cellar. Before we even ordered, we asked for a wine person and were told there was not one on the floor. I asked our server if she was familiar with the list and if she could recommend something other than a Cabernet. “I only know the Pinot Noir. It’s the only wine I drink.” Really? MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir for $13 a glass? Step it up. 60
Shrimp: To put it in the words of my male friend: “This shrimp is as fresh and sassy as our waitress.” (U-15, $14) 87
Salads: A choice of iceberg wedge with blue cheese dressing or a Caesar salad is included with the price of the steak. Both are a nice size, and both dressings compete with those served in more upscale restaurants. The French onion soup is respectable. 75
Vegetables: Skillet mushrooms and sautéed green beans. 89
Potatoes: I could not make myself eat another bite of outdated horseradish mashed potatoes, so I went with the sliced potatoes baked in cream and sharp white cheddar. My chauvinist friend devoured a whole order of three-cheese macaroni and cheese without blinking an eye. 89
Dessert: Plenty of toasty coconut bits in the coconut cream pie and a rich chocolate mousse. 92
Ambiance: I’ve always felt comfortable at Sullivan’s. I like the high-backed red booths, black tablecloths, and low lights. The prize-fighter theme isn’t over the top—just enough to give the space a macho-with-a-strong-feminine-side feel. 90
