Rex Bellomy opened a humble seafood market in January 2006. Three years ago, he began a slow expansion of his business by offering a small lunch menu. If you’ve ever passed the shop near the corner of Lovers and Inwood, you’ve probably noticed the knee-to-knee crowds during lunch service. Four months ago, Bellomy “gave in” to his customers and started dinner service. And what a treat. You won’t find seafood much fresher than that cooked behind the cases of a seafood market. There are usually 20 species on hand, and of course Bellomy stocks seasonal varieties such as Copper River salmon and Chilean sea bass. The restaurant offers soups, sandwiches, and entrées, but the kitchen will cook anything in the market the way you like it. Lobster Roll Friday draws a loyal New England clientele for a reason: Rex’s rendition is true to the typical lobster shack version found during the summer months in the Northeast. The bun, custom made by Eatzi’s, is filled with chunks of fresh lobster and tiny bits of celery that have been tossed in a little mayonnaise and lightly sprinkled with salt and pepper. Lump crab cakes that fall apart at the touch of a fork also make a nice sandwich. A sleeper on the menu is the fish tacos. “I don’t use tilapia,” Bellomy says. “I use a combination of tail pieces of grouper, halibut, sea bass.” Hey, there’s a perk to eating in a seafood market.

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