Knox Street West. If you’re looking for a place to pick up fixings suitable for a lakeside picnic or a midnight rooftop feast, stop by Knox Street West. This small European-style carryout market sets the mood for a romantic occasion – there’s a fireplace, rustic old cabinetry and antique fixtures. The menu is limited and changes frequently, but that’s the charm of the place. One day, for example, pheasant may be offered because the owner went pheasant hunting the day before. Another day, the dessert special may be plum pudding because a customer took a particular liking to it. Knox Street West, as its name might imply, is the carryout sister to Maple Street East. In fact, until the kitchen at the new location was completed, all of the food sold at Knox Street West was prepared at Maple Street East. When we visited, there were two outstanding entrees available: chicken Dijon and a vegetable quiche. The chicken was very good, but it had so much Dijon that it was almost too rich. The quiche was flawless – from the flaky crust to the cheesy filling to the crispy vegetables. Desserts, as a whole, are winners, with the exception of the cheesecake, which, although flavorful, was a bit dry. A wide variety of wines and imported beers is available as are several blends of coffee, ground fresh to order. Knox Street West caters and will prepare almost anything from one of its specialties to one of your favorite recipes from home. (3313 Knox. 528-4140. Daily 10 a.m.-9 p.m. MC, V, AE. $$)
Uncle Tai’s. When the venerable Uncle Tai (one of New York’s most celebrated Chinese chefs) left the Big Apple to settle in Houston several years ago, it was a decided gain for Texans who enjoy flawless, fiery Hunan cuisine. Specializing in the spicy, predominantly stir-fried concoctions of his native Shanghai, Uncle Tai creates dishes that please the palate while subtly expanding it. Chinese-food fans who equate environmental dinginess with authentic fare are also in for a surprise. Everything from the curved lacquer-red woodwork to the elegant and weighty flatware is plush and handsome. But the food is the real revelation. We began our meal with an assortment of hot appetizers for two, which included shrimp toast, egg rolls, a fried chicken wing, skewered beef and two new tastes: crispy walnuts and sesame fish. Appetite whetted, we indulged in another pre-dinner selection – the Two Delicious Cold Platter. One of the dishes was a cold “hacked” chicken in spicy garlic sauce. Usually, the other offering is barbecued beef, but the kitchen had run out of it and sent prawns in garlic-sauce, instead. Both were excellent and spicy without being unbearably hot. When it came to ordering our main dish, we knew we had to try the famed Uncle Tai’s beef, and we were also intrigued by sliced duck with young ginger roots. Our captain suggested a modified, less spicy version of cold noodles Hunan as an accompaniment. Not only was each dish beautifully prepared and presented – and absolutely delicious -but the three combined made for a near-perfect meal. If there was a flaw it was that the ginger flavoring the duck masked the gamy flavor of the fowl. At the risk of waxing effusive, it would be hard to find a restaurant with more careful food preparation, imaginative dishes, courteous service or handsome surroundings. (3370 Galleria. 934-9998. Mon-Thur 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri & Sat 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)
The Garden Court. The new Melrose Hotel is a dream. Standing proudly on the corner of Oak Lawn and Cedar Springs, the renovated hotel serves as a bulwark against the bulldozers and shiny steel that are swallowing Oak Lawn. Once inside the Melrose, you step back in time 50 years to the days when the newspapers headlined Bonnie and Clyde, and Fort Worth really was a cow town. In the Melrose’s Garden Court restaurant, a summery retreat, green palms stand in contrast to the stark white walls and the bold black- and white-tile floor. It’s a pleasant place to sit and dream about the past. Unfortunately, when the food arrives, the dream ends. The Garden Court’s menu is adequate but unimaginative; the service, amateurish and uninformed; the food, bland and unappealing. On a recent visit, we sampled the scallops au gratin and pat坢 maison. The pat坢 was fine, and the scallops were sweet and tender, but the cheese sauce looked and tasted as if it had been microwaved once too often. The spinach salad with sweet-and-sour dressing was tasty but nothing special. For entrees, we chose the “catch of the day” (a lemon sole coated with almond batter) and the veal medallions Normandy. What little veal we received had been overwhelmed by a mushroom sauce reminiscent of a high school cafeteria gravy, and the sole -although tender -was tasteless. According to our waiter, the vegetable of the day was zucchini. Instead, we received overcooked Brussels sprouts. Napoleons from the pastry cart were tough and stale; the raspberry pie was dry and chewy. All this is a shame because we really wanted to enjoy the Garden Court. The Melrose Hotel is a wonderful place in which to escape, but until the kitchen is refurbished, the Garden Court will be only a hollow dream. (The Garden Court in the Melrose Hotel. 521-5151. Lunch: daily 6:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., dinner: 6-9 p.m. AE, MC. $$$)
RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS
These restaurants represent the best in Dallas and Fort Worth dining.
These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion in this directory has nothing whatsoever to do with paid advertising.
The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They indicate only a general price range.
$ Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.
$$ Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.
$$$ Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $20 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.
$$$$ Very expensive.
Credit card notations: MC/MasterCard, V/Visa. AE/American Express, DC/Diners Club. CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” indicates that all five are accepted.
CONTINENTAL
Agnew’s. Of the scores of new restaurants in the northern oasis beyond LBJ. the most welcome addition must be Agnew’s in Adelstein Plaza (north of Belt Line). Although not extensive, the dinner menu offers a tantalizing array of appetizers, entrees and desserts. Of the five entrees we sampled, three were outstanding, one was excellent and the last was very good. One noteworthy entree is the sliced breast of duck and drumstick served with pink peppercorn sauce. The lamb is also impeccable. For dessert, the elaborate pastry cart offers several outstanding selections. (15501 Dallas N Pkwy in Adelstein Plaza, Suite 300. 458-0702. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$$)
Bagatelle. Dallas abounds with beautiful restaurants and good food, but rarely is excellence the rule of thumb. Bagatelle, however, seems comfortable with quality. The menu offers some out-of-the-ordinary entrees such as stuffed quail and Long Island duckling. We enjoyed several large, meaty shrimp in garlic butter in the crevettes Bagatelle. The beef is tender and especially good when served with artichoke hearts and sliced mushrooms or when flamb坢ed with cognac and pepper sauce. The chocolate mousse “flavored” with amaretto was quite the final act. (4925 Greenville. 692-8225. Lunch: 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-70, Fri & Sat 6-11; Sunday brunch: 10:30-2. All credit cards. Reservations. $$$)
Belvedere. The red quilted booths are plush; the antique furnishings, lush; and the dinner music, classical. The Belvedere serves basically the same kind of delicious Swiss-Austrian food as its older sister, The Chimney. The veal (the restaurant’s specialty) approaches L’Ambiance’s in excellence, and the beef is tender; but the light, spirited sauces make the meal. (4242 Lomo Alto. 528-6510- Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)
Brasserie Calluaud. Although it serves only breakfast and lunch, Brasserie Calluaud offers much of the exquisite French fare found at its mother restaurant, Calluaud, on McKinney. Brasserie Calluaud’s lunch menu is extensive, featuring a large array of seafood, as well as the standard quiches, omelets and pizza. The salade Brasserie makes for a satisfying entr坢e, mixing hearts of palm, crab meat, shrimp and tomatoes on a bed of lettuce and rice with a special dressing. The onion soup is hearty and cheesy, and the vichy-ssoise is creamy but not too rich. For a lighter lunch, there are sandwiches and a cold buffet offering fish, cold cuts and pat坢. (1530 Main in the SPG Building. 747-8028 Breakfast: Mon-Fri 7-10 am; lunch: 11 am-3 pm. V, MC, AE. $$$)
Caf坢 de Paris. Here you’ll find continental cuisine served in a comfortable, country French atmosphere. Offerings include tender beef bourguig-nonne, salmon b坢arnaise covered with a tasty sauce, duck with melon and a French onion soup that is easily one of the best in town. And the brie soup is not to be missed. Dessert highlights are the fruit tart (served warm with fresh whipped cream) and the praline pie (The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh. 653-1027 Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sat 5:30-11:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
Caf坢 Le Monde. This relative newcomer served us some great French onion soup and cream of celery soup, and the spinach and mushroom quiche was standardly good. But we’ll recommend Caf坢 Le Monde only for quick lunches-it offers an appealing assortment of salads and sandwiches-until it gets its feet on the ground. The baked brie was nothing more than a slab of French bread with melted, then cooled, cheese on top. And the chocolate croissants had been viciously micro-waved. But we’re optimistic about this small cafe with a dynamite location; it has what it takes to become successful: friendly and obviously eager-to-please employees. (13601 Preston. 385-1938 Mon-Sat 9 am-midnight. Sun 11-8. All credit cards. $$)
Calluaud. Some of the dishes on Calluaud’s menu quality as “best in the city” or in some cases, “only such dish in the city,” Prime examples include veal in a creamy hazelnut sauce, deliciously seasoned turbot with champagne and truffles, a notable quail and duck steak with lime. The scallops, filet en croute and the salmon en croute are superb. The delicate lobster souffle and garlicky escargots de bourgogne are excellent openers. Lovely terra-cotta and cream-colored surroundings are quietly elegant, as is the service. (2619 McKinney. 823-5380. Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat seatings at 7 and 9.30. Closed Sun. Jackets and ties required lor men. Reservations. MC, V. AE. $$$$)
The Chimney. Service is sometimes slow and the appetizers can be unappetizing, but the entrees at this understated restaurant are wonderful. Ten of the 18 listed are veal so we expected the veal forest-iere to be good; it was better than that. Also recommended is the Rehsteak Chimney, breathtakingly tender tournedos of Montana venison. (Willow Creek Center. 9739 N Central Expwy at Walnut Hill. 369-6466. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
Enjolie. Enjolie joins the growing list of Dallas’ finer restaurants, serving innovative and ambitious cuisine in an elegant but comfortable setting. The menu offers superior variations on culinary standards- chicken with crayfish, pepper steak, veal with mushrooms, medallions of lamb with tarragon sauce-as well as more unusual fare for the more audacious- roast pigeon, sweetbreads, pheasant mousse. Complimentary cheeses are served after the seafood entrees, so if you want dessert, be judicious. For those people who prefer decaffeinated coffee, Enjolie serves a Colombian blend that is brewed to perlec-tion.(Mandalay Four Seasons Hotel, 221 S Colinas Blvd. Irving. 5560800. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11 30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Reservations. AE, MC. V, DC. $$$$)
The Grape. Everyone loves The Grape, but the people who seem to love it most are lovers. Candlelight is conducive not only to romantic conversations but also to discussions of bad poetry and good dance. The food is excellent. Quiche Lorraine is a staple, as are the homemade mushroom soup and Boston lettuce dinner salads. The pates are consistently noteworthy. Service is provided by bright, young people who probably live lives more fascinating than any of their clientele. (2808 Greenville at Goodwin. 823-0133 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-11. Fri & Sat 6-12:30. All credit cards. $$)
Jean Claude. In 1977, Jean Claude began serving haute cuisine on a basis the city hadn’t seen before. No menus, no advertising, reservations-only seating. Now Jean Claude is something of a haute cuisine shrine lor most astute Dallasites. For $29 50 per person, diners can have a complete meal with entrees such as lobster in a light cream sauce, salmon menuiner or duck roasted in ginger sauce, not to mention excellent choices of veal. And the dessert souffl坢s-ahh. (2404 Cedar Springs. 653-1823. Tue-Sat seatings at 6 and 9. Reservations only. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$$)
Jennivine. Although the atmosphere is British. Jen-nivme offers a lovely selection of pates. French wines and cheeses from various countries. The dinner menu, which is written on a blackboard, varies according to the fresh seafood that is available. Tender sea scallops and filet of sole are excellent Service is friendly and sometimes English-accented. (3605 McKinney. 528-6010. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)
L’Ambiance. This is definitely the best continental food you’ll ever eat In a converted gas station. Salads are impeccable; soups are fresh and flavorful. Recommended entrees are the medallions of veal with mushroom puree and the pepper-sauced filet mignon. When lobster bisque is available, be sure to try it. The pastry selection is varied and gorgeous. (2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6:30-10. Fri & Sat 6:30-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)
Le Louvre. If plush formality, solicitous service and leisurely pacing appeal to you, Le Louvre won’t disappoint. Especially good starters are the salmon mousse with cucumbers and dill sauce (near perfection) and the unusual and spicy hot terrine of wild game with green pepper sauce. We also enjoyed the oysters pie with avocado sauce and the lobster sausage wrapped in a delicate pastry. Add a serving of the cream of spinach soup with crab meat and a “salad fantastic” and you could stop there-but don’t. The souffl坢 du soir (we had raspberry) is out of this world. (9840 N Central Expwy. 691-1177. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
Les Saisons. Here you’ll get what restaurant critics call a “dining experience.” The food is French, the waiters are French (or are at least good impersonators) and the decor is set approximately in turn-of-the-century suburban Paris Meals at Les Saisons are traditional, expensive and predictably excellent. There are some interesting twists such as roast Cornish hen with tarragon sauce, braised sweetbreads and sirloin saut坢 with Roquefort cheese and green peppercorns. (165 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 528-1102. Sun-Thur 11:30-11, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-midnight. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
The Mansion. The place to see and be seen in Dallas, the Mansion offers an elegant decor often supplemented by dining celebrities. Menu standouts include the tortilla soup, the b坢arnaise sauce that tops the red snapper and the pat坢 that garnishes the duck with brown sauce. A chef from The Jockey Club in Washington has added soft-shell crab to the house specialties. (2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Breakfast: daily 7-10:30; lunch: Mon-Fri noon-2:30; brunch: Sat noon-2:30 & Sun 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11; supper: Mon-Thur 10:30-midnight, Fri & Sat 11-midnight. Reservations. Jackets and ties required. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$$)
Maple Street East. This handsome Victorian house has been a favorite dining spot since it opened, even though the food was a little uneven at first. Now, all that’s straightened out, and Maple Street East is consistently good. The salads are delicious, and the fettuccine verde is especially good at lunch, as is the crab, bacon and avocado sandwich. At dinner, try the tournedos, with English trifle for dessert. (2508 Maple. 698-0345. Lunch: 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10:30. Fri & Sat 6-11:30. MC, V, AE. $$$)
Pyramid Room. Courteous and thorough service is the rule here, from matchbooks embossed with the customer’s name to the presence of the charming Italian wine steward. Lunch includes Irish smoked salmon and oysters Kirkpatrick. Topping the dinner lineup are the house pate of fish and lobster with two sauces, and the steak au poivre. (Fairmont Hotel. Ross and Akard. 748-5454. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: daily 6-11. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)
ETHIOPIAN
The Blue Nile. Don’t be intimidated by the names of the menu items here: almost everything is stew-like, spicy and good. Expect the unexpected: The food is served on pizza pans, and no silverware is provided. In Ethiopia, it is proper to eat with the right hand, and injera (Ethiopian bread that is spongy and tastes slightly sour) is used as an eating utensil For the newcomer. The Blue Nile’s combination plate offers an extensive sampling of traditional dishes including minchet abesh (finely chopped spiced beef), zilzil tibs (beef strips fried with a tangy sauce) and misser wott (lentil stew with herbs) (7242 Gaston. 324-0471. Tue-Sun noon-midnight. Closed Mon. AE, MC, V. $)
The Red Sea. The Oak Lawn area has just about everything, including one of Dallas’ two Ethiopian restaurants. Here you can dine on such exotic-sounding items as doro wott (chicken spiced with hot pepper), yebeg wott (lamb stew with spiced butter and herbs) and potatoes and carrots cooked in curry. Ethiopian dining is an experience for the adventuresome. If you don’t feel quite at ease with the Ethiopian eating process, just ask for assistance. (2926 Oak Lawn. 528-8476. Daily 11-11. No credit cards. $)
INDIAN
India House. Dinner service is extremely attentive in this establishment where the selections are not exactly part of the American culinary mainstream. Fresh-from-the-oven breads and appetizers such as the chicken chat are superb. Both the tandoori chicken and beef (marinated delights served with shovel-sized portions of fluffy rice) are tasty and extremely filling. The cheese balls in sweet milk are perfect for dessert. (5422 E Mockingbird. 823-1000. Lunch:daily 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10. Fri & Sat 5-11. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)
Kebab-N-Kurry. If you’re looking tor something new and you’ve never tried Indian food, this is the perfect atmosphere in which to learn The place is small, the waiters are friendly and very knowledgeable about Indian food and its history, and the food is authentic. The chicken chat is a tasty appetizer, as are the samosas (turnover-type pastries stufted with either vegetables or meat) And a wide assortment of Indian breads, pita-like and quite unusual, is also offered. (401 N Central Expwy, Suite 300. 231-5556. Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 5:30-10:30. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $)
Sahib. Sahib is a wonderful place for dinner when the old taste buds are bored with Western European cuisine. Every time we go to Sahib we’re delighted by how pretty it is; the green, peach and bamboo decor, plus the gentle Indian music relaxes us. Maharaja Sahib’s Mughlai Biryani is our favorite -lamb cooked with herbs and mixed with long-grain Indian rice, saffron, nuts, raisins and eggs. It tastes even better with some sweet mango chutney and an order of tandoori roti (Indian whole-wheat bread). Service at Sahib can be aggressive, so |ust remember that you can turn down the elephant’s memory (a pina colada-like drink) and the mango ice cream, but enjoy the advice-waiters will tell you exactly what to expect from each dish. (Caruth Plaza. 9100 N Central Expwy. 987-2301. Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 5:30-11. MC, V, AE. $$)
Tanjore. At this North Dallas Indian restaurant, the Middle Eastern mood comes through loud and clear with piped-in Hindi music and the tastes and smells of curry, cumin, cinnamon and coriander Tanjore offers a large selection of vegetarian dishes, poultry, seafood and lamb and beef specialties We settled on an order of lamb mugali (chunks of tender lamb in a creamy sauce with nuts) and shahi korma (boneless chicken cooked in curry with butter. cream and almonds) The sauce was spiced mildly-but not meekly-in both dishes. For something unusual, try a Tanjorita: a soothing whipped yogurt drink (Pres-tonwood Creek Shopping Center. 5409 Bell Line. 960-0070. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2 30. Sat 11:30-3; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10. All credit cards. $$)
ITALIAN
Bugatti. Bugatti offers consistently superior homemade pasta, the quintessential element for any good Italian restaurant. But Bugatti goes far beyond that The chef handles veal as well as any of his Dallas contemporaries, and the homemade soups are among the best in the city. Other standouts include the tortellini alla crema (homemade doughnut-shaped pasta shells stuffed with veal and engulfed in a rich white cream sauce), the crab cannelloni and the fettuccine della casa. (2574 Walnut Hill. 350-2470 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)
Caruso’s. If you like arias with your antipasto, Caruso’s singing waiters will gladly oblige you. The Italian selections include basic pasta and veal dishes, and steaks are available Wine lovers will appreciate Caruso’s bottomless glass, while lovers will enjoy the candle-lit booths. (706 Medallion Center, Northwest Hwy at Skillman. 691-9944. Sun-Thur 5:30-10. Fri & Sat 5.30-11. All credit cards. $$)
Cremona Ristorante Italiano and Deli. Park your car on the dead-end street, wind your way around the little junque stores, find a table near a window and prepare yourself for a no-nonsense Italian meal The ladder-back chairs, wooden blinds and starched white tablecloths lend country-inn romance. The pasta is homemade, and the sauces are innovative, delicate and subtle You’ll relish the fresh butter and cream flavors. (2600 Woodrow, between Cedar Springs and Routh. 742-4330. Mon-Fri 11:30-2 and 5:30-10:30 pm, Sat 5:30-10:30 Closed Sun All credit cards. $$)
Cunze’s. Although it may look suspiciously like an-other faceless pizza shack, Cunze’s is far from it. What you’ll find here is serious Italian food-veal scallopine, linguine with clams, fresh calamari (squid). Entrees come with the traditional green salad and a steaming side of pasta in either a garlic or a tomato sauce The veal and shrimp combination is especially tasty-thin slices of tender veal saut坢ed with scampi in butter, lemon and garlic. As for atmosphere, Cunze’s interior is about as classy as Mama’s kitchen, but somehow the result is al-most romantic. (6101 Greenville. 369-5747. Mon-Sat 5-11, Sun 5-10. MC, V, AE. $$$)
La Tosca. Elegant, understated surroundings and food equally as tasteful greet diners at La Tosca Octopus salad and pepata di vongole or cozze (a clam dish) stand out on a menu that includes excellent pasta (paglio e fieno, and canelloni are delicious), scaloppine al marsala and involtini nicola, two veal dishes. Another unusual treat worth sampling is the cold, thinly sliced veal with tuna sauce Noteworthy desserts include profitterol al cioccolato (a cream-filled pastry) and ice cream with Strega, an Italian liqueur (7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Tue-Thur & Sun 5:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Mon All credit cards. $$$)
La Trattoria Lombardi. This place may never be as good as the old Lombardi’s on McKinney, but when it is at its best, the pasta is inspirational Also offered are superior soups (clam chowder and minestrone excel), fine veal dishes (especially the veal with lemon butter. veal marsala and saltimbocca Ro-mana) and first-rate tarts and other desserts, all with Lombardi’s traditionally good service. (2916 Hall. 823-6040. Lunch: 11 -2; dinner:Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)
Prego Pasta House. This Italian restaurant is the product of the Barraco family. As can be determined after a glance at the menu, Joe Barraco is not only the owner of Prego, he’s also the manager of Cam-pisi’s. In many cases, we found the food at Prego to be similar to Campisi’s, but the atmosphere and service is generally better. For appetizers, the artichoke hearts and scampi were passable but a bit blah- not much garlic or imagination. The fried provolone was excellent, though. Our only complaint is that the cheese was a bit overbreaded. As a general rule of thumb, order the authentic Italian specialties; they’re all top-notch. The veal cutlet parmigiana is excellent, as is the lasagna. Pizza is the same as Campisi’s: thin tasty crust with oodles of rich, thick Italian topping. (4930 Greenville. 363-9204. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight, Sun noon-11. MC, V, AE. $$)
Ristorante Lombardi. With this latest addition in Adelstein Plaza, Lombardi’s continues its tradition of ottering great Italian cuisine. Try the specialty of the house appetizer (delizia tricolore), a sampling of some of Lombardi’s pasta, or steamed clams served with a garlic, white wine and lemon sauce. As entr坢es, the sea bass with mixed seafood is flavorful and rich; the veal scaloppine, tender and buttery. The juicy lamb chops are prepared in a lightly seasoned breading and are saut坢ed with red peppers, onions and black olives. Don’t pass up dessert- Lombardi’s smooth, subtle chocolate rum cake is a real treat. (15501 Dallas Pkwy at Arapaho. 458-8822. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$$)
Sergio and Luciano. The setting here is not altogether satisfying-it’s half upstairs, half downstairs, and most of the action is on the upper floor. There’s a feeling of loneliness if you have to be seated below, even though there’s the bar and soft, pleasing piano music to keep you company. The food is superb. Calamari-fried at lunch and served in a hot spicy broth as an appetizer at dinner-is excellent. So is the tortellini alla panna, offered as a first course in small portions that leave room for more. If you want pasta, you can’t improve on the fettuccine with white clam sauce. The vegetables are carefully prepared, and Sergio and Luciano serves real Italian hard rolls. (4900 Belt Line. Suite 250. 387-4441. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-6; dinner: nightly 6-11. All credit cards. $$$)
MEXICAN
Alexandra’s. Some unusual, yet somehow pleasing combinations caught our attention at this North Dallas furniture store-turned-restaurant. The menu is an interesting compilation of Italian and Mexican fare, and one appetizer, queso flamiado, effectively combines the two. In it, steamy flour tortillas are served with an Italianesque (though the menu insists it is Spanish) sauce; the dish could be the beginning of a tasty new genre: ltalo-Mex. The combination nachos, served with all the trimmings plus chives, should be in the running lor our next royal nacho award, but we found some of the entrees (chicken enchiladas and carne al carbon) a little ordinary. The breast of chicken al carbon was tender, though, and the beer batter shrimp were the biggest. juiciest hunks of delicately coated crustaceans we’ve seen. (12801 Midway. 243-6841. Mon-Thur 11 am-midnight. Fri & Sat 11 am-2 am. AE, MC, V. $$$)
Caf坢 Cancun. Cafe Cancun serves the finest Mexico City-style Mexican food in town. The standout menu items are too numerous to sample during one visit, but there are a few items you shouldn’t miss. Try the corn soup, which is thick with cheese and corn meal, and the enchiladas verdes (chicken or cheese enchiladas with spicy green tomatillo sauce). Then sample the tacos al carbon, the quesadillas Cancun and the nachos Cancun (black beans, guacamole, cheese and sour cream). (4131 Lomo Alto. 559-4011. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri 11-midnight, Sat 5-midnight, Sun noon-10. No reservations. AE, MC, V. $$)
Chiquita. With its pastel tablecloths and candles and the color-coordinated costumes of the waiters. Chiquita is no ordinary Tex-Mex restaurant. So it’s appropriate that Chiquita excels with its out-of-the-ordinary specialties. Skillful preparations include carne asada tampico style and filete de la casa (filet mignon dishes) and the tortilla soup. The diced chicken with sour cream is also a treat. (3810 Congress off Oak Lawn. 521-0721. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)
Escondido. This place looks like a Hell’s Angels habitat on the outside, and inside, the decor is late-New York subway with spray-can graffiti all over the ceiling. The dishes are standard no-frill, reasonable-bill Mexican food. The chicken nachos are among the best in town, and the combination platter’s tacos and salsas are top-notch. (2270 Butler. 631-9912. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 5-9. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)
Gonzalez. Rule: Avoid dining in at restaurants that do a heavy takeout trade-you’ll be slighted on the amenities, especially service. Exception to rule: Gonzalez on Maple. Most of the basics are reliable: The beans and rice are heaven-sent, and anything served on a corn tortilla is a winner. The hot sauce, both spicy and steaming, goes well with the abundant chips and almost makes up for the wimpish, bland guacamole. Puff tacos and chile relleno are among the standout entr坢es-all of which cost less than $6. And if you’re looking for a breakfast treat, try the chilaquillas (tortilla strips fried with eggs and peppers). No frills here, and the voices of the drive-through patrons are a nuisance, but the food makes it all worthwhile. (4333 Maple at Wycliff. 528-2960. Daily: 7 am-9 pm. All credit cards. $)
Joe T. Garcia’s. By definition, there can be but one best Mexican restaurant in North America. There have been times when we were wont to bequeath that title to Joe T.’s in Fort Worth, but now that isn’t the issue. We are here to talk about an upstart: Garcia does Dallas. After several months’ consideration-noting that the owners feel confident enough to sell greeting cards and T-shirts Six Flags-style- we’ll just say we enjoyed the new Joe T.’s. The margaritas are delightfully, dangerously stiff; and the food-still one-shot standard Mexican fare-is pleasingly dependable. The atmosphere (with some token leaning walls) is not plagiaristic enough of the mother Joe T.’s to be offensive. (4440 Belt Line. 458-7373. Mon-Sat 11-3 and 5-11. Closed Sun. MC, V. $$)
Mario & Alberto. Dining here is a completely pastel experience, like a meal inside a great peach petit four. Strong margaritas, good chips and hot sauce, chicken nachos and flautas con crema set a fine mood for main courses chosen from a vast menu (which includes everything from standard bean and taco plates to zucchini stuffed with ground sirloin). (425 Preston Valley Shopping Center, LBJ at Preston. 980-7296. Mon-Thur 11:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 11:30-11. Closed Sun. Drinks with $5 membership charge. All credit cards. $$)
Mercado Juarez. We’ll admit to being impulsive with our praise for Tex-Mex houses; all at once we fall in love, returning again and again to slurp hot sauce and inhale beans. Today we’re beside ourselves with cravings for lunch, dinner or anything in between at our new favorite dive Mercado Juarez meets all our standards of excellence: 1. It’s cheap. 2 It’s clean. 3. It’s unaffected. 4. We were served a lot of food. Half of the warehouse-type building is devoted to an interesting Mexican craft market. The vastness of both the building and the menu scared us at first-we feared Pancho-esque automation- but somehow they pulled it off and served us mass quantities of superb nachos, tacos and all the trimmings. (1901 W Northwest Hwy. 556-0796. Mon 11-3, Tue-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun noon-10 AE, MC, V. $$)
Moctezuma. Besides the usual Tex-Mex, Mocte-zuma’s features some excellent chicken and fish dishes. The nachos and the margaritas are tops. On sunny days you can sit outside on the terrace, sip a stout margarita and watch the traffic go by. (3236 McKinney. 559-3010. Sun-Thur 11-10:30, Fri & Sat full menu until 11:30; appetizers until 12:30. Reservations lor parties of six or more. All credit cards. $$)
On The Border. On the Border’s explanatory menu note describes the fare as “Mexico-Texas”-a fancy way of saying Tex-Mex. Standbys such as nachos, tacos and enchiladas are still standing by. We tried the Highland Park nachos, which were thick with two cheeses, onions, carrots-the works-including generous strips of broiled beef. The tacos al carbon, which are filled with mesquite-broiled steak strips, had a good flavor, but were a bit tough. Our taco salad was delicious and enormous, and the vegetarian sandwich with avocado and sprouts is great for lunch. On The Border also serves a meaty, cheesy, very hearty bowl of chili. (3300 Knox. 528-5900. Daily 11 am-2 am. All credit cards. $$)
ORIENTAL
Asuka. Dining at Asuka is a soothing experience that will transport you a thousand miles away from the traffic and congestion 50 yards outside the door. Try any one of the Kaiseki dinners, such as the Ishi-yaki Kaiseki-beef and vegetables served over sizzling stone pebbles; it is delightful. At lunch, the food is just as palate-pleasing and pretty. (7136 Greenville. 363-3537. Lunch: Tue-Sun 11-2; dinner: Tue-Sun 6-10:30. Closed Mon. Reservations. AE, V, MC, DC. $$$)
August Moon. The menu is vast, so go early and read it carefully. We began with a pu pu tray with the lightest fried shrimp and wonton we’ve ever tasted. August Moon Seafood Splendor and August Moon Sizzling Plate were tremendous in size and seasoned just barely, and then only to highlight natural flavors. The individual tastes of the meats and vegetables were easily distinguished and not greasy-a difficult feat when so many ingredients are presented en masse And the service is polite, though at times a bit hurried. (15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. Mon-Thur 11-10:30, Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11, Reservations for eight or more. Bar by membership. AE, MC, V, DC. $$)
Forbidden City. This Chinese spot, next-door to Wilson’s and in the same shopping center as three other restaurants, should be welcomed by North Dallasites. The atmosphere is quietly elegant, and the food matches the decor. Everything on the pu pu tray-shrimp toast to wontons to ribs-is well-prepared and flavorful The tofu is tender and pleasantly spongy as opposed to the standard recapped rubber-tire versions. Also try the chicken and walnuts. The chicken is tender; the walnuts, crunchy- providing a perfect example of the complementary textures so important to Chinese cuisine. Beef with snow peas is a pleasant variation on the same theme; the tender beef isn’t overcooked, and the snow-pea pods are crisp. The service is efficient and friendly. (5290 Belt Line. 960-2999. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-3 am, Sun 11 am-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Hunan Imperial. The difference between this Chinese restaurant and almost every other new Chinese restaurant begins with its extensive menu. There are offerings that are just not readily available at other Dallas Chinese restaurants. String beans with pork, for example. The beans are crisp and flavorful, with just a smidgen of pork flavor. Another dish we found both palate-pleasing and pretty is the shrimp with pine nuts. The vegetables and the pine nuts are crisp and crunchy; the shrimp, well-cooked but not tough or mushy, the barbecue ribs, tops. And the atmosphere, although not quite imperial, is at least subdued and conducive to fine dining. (The Corner Shopping Center, Walnut Hill and N Central Expwy. 363-3858. Sun-Thur 11:30-11, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-midnight. AE, V, MC, DC. $$)
Kobawoo. Our meals at this small Korean restaurant in Oak Lawn have been dining adventures. Lighted Korean posters line the walls, and a color TV is usually blaring an Oriental station. Our waitress wasn’t quite fluent enough to explain what we were eating, but we enjoyed the slices of Mongolian barbecued beef. anyway. The menu also offers several good chicken dishes. Some of Kobawoo’s vegetables were seasoned beyond recognition, and the sweet and sour pork was neither Still, this place has charm and friendly service-it’s a good, quick inexpensive place to grab a late-night Oriental bite (3109 Inwood. 351 6922. Daily: 11 am-midnight. AE, MC. V. $)
Royal China. If anything improves the experience of dining here, it’s the unfailing courtesy of the stall and the personal care lavished on every diner. Not that the food needs a boost. Buck Kao’s royal prawn entrees are legendary, but lesser-known dishes such as curry chicken-moist slivers of fowl with carrot. celery, water chestnuts and onion-are always excellent And don’t worry about being hungry an hour alter eating here: II you start with the three delicacies soup (laden with shrimp, scallops and chicken), take on a Chinese appetizer plate (the barbecued spareribs are great) and finish up with a dish such as beef with tomato or sliced chicken with mushroom and bamboo shoots, you won’t want to consider dessert. (201 Preston Royal Shopping Center. 361-1771. Daily: 11:30 am-2:30 pm & 5:30-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Siam. Siam opened up new worlds lor us when it brought Thai food to Dallas. For the uninitiated. Thai cuisine is often fiery hot, using peppers and curry sauces, and blends in several elements that separate it from spicy hot Chinese cooking such as Szechuan or Hunan. An excellent beginner is the moo-sar tey (pork strips on bamboo skewers served with a peanut sauce) and slices of cucumber and hot pepper For an entr坢e, try the gand ped-a rice dish with curry, bamboo shoots, coconut milk, mint leaves and your choice of pork, beef or chicken. Another standout is the pard Thai, a rice noodle dish with shrimp, pork, eggs, hot chili peppers, bean sprouts and green onions. (1730 W Mockingbird near Harry Hines. 631-5482. Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $)
Szechuan. This oasis in the Lemmon Avenue fast-food strip offers reliably good, if never great, Szechuan and standard Chinese dishes. Main-dish standouts include shredded pork with garlic sauce, moo shi pork, chicken with cashew nuts and the chicken and shrimp combination. Lunch specials (served Monday through Saturday) are real bargains ($2 50 to $3.75). (4117 Lemmon near Douglas. 521-6981. Sun-Thur 11:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 11:30-11:30. MC, V, AE. $$)
Szechuan Pavilion. There’s nothing particularly compelling about the atmosphere at Szechuan Pavilion, but then, we’ve frequently found a positive correlation between good Chinese food and shabby surroundings. The keys here seem to be authentic, fresh ingredients, few gummy additives and spicy dishes that are zesty and flavorful but not fiery hot. Two items on the menu shouldn’t be missed: the fried fantail shrimp appetizer-pertectly crisp and light and served piping hot-and the subgum deluxe lo mein-a fabulous blend of lo mein noodles, plump nuggets of seafood and stir-fried vegetables. Beyond that, we tend to rely on the chef’s suggestions-some of which, like the emperor’s chicken and the hot and sour whole fish. are downright exotic. (8409 Preston, in Preston Center. 368-4303. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30 & 4:30-10. Sat & Sun noon-10.30. All credit cards. $$)
Taiwan. This restaurant is dressier and a bit more expensive than a lot of Chinese places in town, but it stands head and shoulders above most of them when it comes to food. The choices, particularly in terms of appetizers and soups, are extremely varied; the Kuo-Teh meat dumplings, the flaming pu pu platter and the sizzling rice soup for two are outstanding The kitchen is at its best with the hot and spicy Szechuan dishes. Service can range from nerve-rackingly overattentive to somewhat absent-minded. (6111 Greenville. 369-8902. Mon-Sat 11 am-3am, Sun 10 am-11 pm. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
Yunnan Dynasty. Probably the best Chinese restaurant in Dallas. Yunnan Dynasty is especially adept at hot and spicy dishes such as Yunnan spicy shrimp, shredded beef with hot pepper and black-bean sauce and diced chicken with hot pepper sauce. The chef’s special beef is also a crunchy delight. One of our all-time favorites is steamed fish, served whole, with black-bean sauce For dessert, sesame bananas can’t be improved upon. (Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy, Suite 191. 739-1110. Sun-Thur 11:30-10, Fri & Sat noon-11. AE, V, MC, DC. $$)
SEAFOOD
Fausto’s. This establishment deserves commendation for its excellence in all areas of restaurant management, especially for the food. King salmon with spinach in a puff pastry and baked swordfish with oysters and wine sauce would please anyone’s palate. The fresh shark gumbo and the artichoke and mushroom salad are equally special. The chocolate mousse is ambrosial; and the fresh coffee with beaten cream is superb. The elegant, dark and unhurried atmosphere makes for a particularly satisfying and romantic evening. (Hyatt Regency Hotel. 651-1234. Daily: 6-11: Sun brunch: 10:30-2:30. Reservations for dinner. Jackets required for men. All credit cards. $$$$)
Hampton’s Seafood Market. On any given day. this small, quaint seafood oasis adjacent to the Farmer’s Market downtown offers approximately 50 different kinds of seafood lor eating in or carrying out. The luncheon menu is limited-as is the seating (only two tables)-but the offerings are excellent. We ordered the salmon salad with cucumber sandwich and the swordfish salad with green pepper (both served on flaky croissants). Chunky, slightly tart coleslaw was a complementary side dish. For a taste of Cajun country cooking, try Hampton’s seafood gumbo. The Hampton salad is a delightful combination of shrimp, coleslaw, vegetables and two kinds of fish salads. Hampton’s also sells its own marinade for fish, beef or chicken; shrimp boil; and homemade red sauce and tartar sauce. (801 S Pearl. 742-4668. Tue-Fri 8 am-6 pm, Sat & Sun 7 am-6 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)
Seascape Inn. This seafood restaurant is one of Dallas’ finest eateries. We’ve never had a bad entree, and Chef Jean LaFont’s specialties are always just that-special treats. The Dover sole Veronique and the salmon in puff pastry are two wonderful selections. “Gracious” best sums up the service and atmosphere; it is elegant but not pretentious. (6306 Greenville. 692-6920. Lunch: Sun-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
S & D Oyster Company. S&D could easily survive for years on its substantial assemblage of regulars who would much rather fight the growing crowds than switch. Why do droves flock to this humble establishment? Because S&D has some of the best fresh seafood in Dallas. Period. Broiled whole flounder and fried shrimp are among the freshly simple choices. And don’t forget S&D’s great sides- crisp coleslaw, crunchy hush puppies and french fries. (2701 McKinney. 823-6350. Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. No reservations. MC, V. $$)
Spinnaker. The menu here is of manageable size- there is variety, but it doesn’t appear that the chef tries to perform beyond his means in order to impress. We began with an on-the-house appetizer, a tasty sample of marinated shrimp. Our entree choices included a filet of red snapper with white wine and lemon butter and bouillabaisse marsel-laise. rich with shrimp, scallops, crab legs, halibut, sea bass, lobster, mussels, redfish and clams in a deliciously light, non-fishy broth. The appetizers we sampled-baked clams with shrimp and crab meat and bisque of crawfish with cognac-were very good. But we missed having salads with our meal and feel compelled to give Spinnaker counsel on its desserts: The chocolate chip-pecan pie and the strawberry tart just didn’t taste as good as they should have. (Lincoln Raddison Hotel, 5410 LBJ Frwy at Dallas N Tollway. 934-8400. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$$)
SOUTHERN SPECIALTIES
Brent Place. Lunch customers drive from all over the state to dine in this 106-year-old house in Old City Park. The menu changes weekly; we enjoyed roast beef, corn on the cob, baked beans, coleslaw, bread pudding, muffins and corn bread, plus iced tea, for $6. Brent Place is a nonprofit project of the Dallas Heritage Society and is staffed almost completely by society volunteers. The lunch menu changes weekly, but on weekends the chefs try out new menus and prepare old favorites. (1717 Gano. 421-3058. Lunch seatings: Tue-Fri at 11:15. 12:15 and 1:15: Sat & Sun 11 am-2 pm. Reservations required weekdays. MC, V. $)
Celebration. Nothing fancy, nothing snooty, nothing canned makes its way to your table at this longtime favorite home-style chow house. Specials change daily; and everything we tried was worth celebrating. We went on a Tuesday to give Celebration the acid test. Would the special of the day, chicken-fried steak, be worthy of our (native Texan) digestive juices? Indeed, it was. The gravy was some of the best we’ve tasted, save Massey’s in Fort Worth and George’s in Waco. The best part of the meal, though, was the smooth, creamy mashed potatoes, obviously made from scratch and seasoned with drippings from the steak. Every entree comes with three vegetables, plus a huge bowl of crisp salad, homemade salad dressing and an assorted basket of rolls. (4503 W Lovers Lane. 351-5681. Lunch. Mon-Fri 11-2, dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, Sun 5:30-10. Reservations for six or more weekdays only. All credit cards. $$)
Crawdaddy’s. Here you can dine on a terrific whole catfish dinner in rough-cut wood surroundings. The catfish is moist and tasty and accompanied by the best, lightest hush puppies you’ll ever eat. Although it doesn’t seem to be in season very often, try ordering some form of crayfish when it is available The beignets sprinkled with powdered sugar make a perfect finish. (2614 McKinney. 748-2008. Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11:30, Sat noon-11:30, Sun noon-11. No reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)
Highland Park Cafeteria. To dine at this Dallas institution during peak hours can mean waiting in line for as long as 20 minutes. But don’t give up; the line moves quickly and soon you’ll be enticed by the aroma of HPC’s home-style food. HPC offers all kinds of green salads, coleslaw, congealed salads and fresh fruits. Next in line are the entrees; roast beef, fish (baked or tried), casseroles and more. And the vegetables here are actually semi-crisp, not steamed into mush. The assortment of breads and desserts is especially tempting. (4611 Cole. 526-3809. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm. Closed Sun. No liquor. MC, V. $)
Sonny Bryan’s. There’s a reason all those people are standing in line in front of this greasy, fly-blown former drive-in: They are praying to the great god of barbecue, and Sonny Bryan is their Moses. They’re waiting for a generous slice of beef in the $1.90 sandwich: for ribs crusty and crinkled on the outside, juicy inside, with a sauce good enough to slurp out of the cardboard basket. They are here for real barbecued meat. (2202 lnwood. 357-7120. Mon-Fri 7 am-5 pm, Sat 7 am-3 pm. Sun 11 am-2 pm. No reservations. No credit cards. $)
STEAKS, BURGERS, ETC.
Albert’s Delicatessen and Catering. The menu features deli sandwiches and “specialties, ” which include croque monsieur sandwiches, soups, hot dishes such as lasagna and moussaka, and bastur-ma (an egg dish fixed with aged beef that tastes a lot like country ham). Al also serves up a creamy, cinnamon-flavored cheesecake and lots of friendly chatter. Albert’s has a nice, neighborly feel to it. (1416 Avenue J. 424-4534. Mon-Fri 7am-8 pm, Sat 7 am-4 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)
Beefeater. With an Old English pub atmosphere, this restaurant serves up thick, juicy beef. pork and lamb cuts of good quality. The extras are limited and unfancy, choices including a standard dinner salad, hearty black beans and a creamy coleslaw with a bite. Service is good. (3010 N Henderson at N Central Expwy. 826-2553. Tue-Sun 6 pm-10:30 pm. Closed Mon. MC, V, AE. $$$)
Bohemia. The owners of this charm-laden little Bavarian restaurant are Czechoslovakian, but the cuisine is not all that different from your favorite German establishment, and odds are that it’s prepared with more care. The menu includes a lot of goulash-style dishes, dumplings, veal and vinegary sauces. Our vegetables were outstanding, cooked perfectly The sauerkraut, in fact, was the best we’ve ever had. The desserts, too. were homemade -a fluffy cheesecake with real whipped cream and an apple strudel of flaky pastry and tart, plump fruit slices. (2810 N Henderson. 826-6209. Tue-Sun 5:30-11. Closed Mon. MC, V, AE. $$)
The Bronx. Pinpointing the ambiance of The Bronx is not easy-it’s somewhere between Soho chic and Southern simplicity. In any case, The Bronx is a great place to sit back, relax and choose from a limited menu of quiches, omelets and salads, or perhaps the meat loaf plate, all of which are sure bets. The Bronx has daily wine specials and some of the best spiced tea around. Service can be a bit slow (3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Mon-Thur 5:30 pm-12:30 am. Fri 5:30 pm-1:30 am. Sat 6 pm-1:30 am. Sunday brunch: 11:30-4. MC, V, AE. $$)
Hoffbrau. Sink into the deep vinyl booths (deep because the springs are shot), put your elbows on the table, have a beer and listen to the genuine Texas accents of the polyester-clad cowboys (the kind that let you know, in case you doubted, that this is a real steak restaurant). The chief charm of this delightfully Austinesque restaurant is the atmosphere, followed closely by the juicy lemon-butter steaks. You’ll leave as full as your Levis can handle for less than $15. (3205 Knox at Cole. 559-2680. Mon-Sat 11-11, Sun 4-10. All credit cards. $$)
Ruth’s Chris Steak House. The unassuming no-trills steakhouse appearance of Ruth’s makes the prices here a real shock. The entrees (sirloin strip, filet, rib eye and porterhouse) begin at $17, With that you get bread, period But the steak, which is pan-broiled in butter, is served sizzling hot and juicy and is very good. (6940 Greenville. 691-6940. Mon-Fri 11:30-11:30. Sat & Sun 5-11:30. All credit cards. $$$)
TGI Friday’s. The creator of singlemania, Friday’s is still the spot for after-hour intermingling. The pace is frenetic; the noise level, deafening, the drinks, plentiful; and the food, consistently reliable. Try the great potato skins. Mexican pizza or the numerous burger selections. (5500 Greenville. 363-5353. 5100 Belt Line, 386-5824. Mon-Sat 11:30-2, Sun 11-2. No reservations. Alt credit cards. $$)
Tolbert’s Chili Parlor. Tolbert’s may have left Oak Lawn, but not much else has changed at this chili institution (except the crowds gotten even bigger). You’ll still find good mainline Texas cooking-Tolbert’s version of chili (Texas red), burgers with every type of dressing, burritos, hearty tries and superb onion rings-but now you’ll get it served up in an even bigger warehouse-style room with even more chili cookoff photos. (4544 McKinney. 522-4340. Mon-Thur 11-11. Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. Sun noon-11 pm. No reservations. V, MC, AE. $)
PORT WORTH RESTAURANTS
Angelo’s. Hallowed has become the name of Angelo’s among devotees of the almighty rib, and lor a real taste of Texas, we’ll take the tender, meaty, succulent barbecued ribs served here. For $5.75. you get a pile of ribs, beans, potato salad, coleslaw, pickle, onion, sauce and bread Ribs are served after 5 p.m. only. The kitchen closes at 10 p.m., after which the price of beer doubles. (2533 White Settlement Road. (817)332-0357. Mon-Sat 11-10. Closed Sun. No reservations. No credit cards. $)
The Back Porch. A fun place to visit after an afternoon in the park or an hour at the museum. Wholewheat pizzas, a weigh-and-pay salad bar (which, for 16 cents an ounce, includes fresh, juicy hunks of a wide assortment of fruits and a good guacamole salad), three kinds of homemade soup and great heaping ice cream cones make this a favorite spot for Fort Worth diners. (2500 W Berry. (817) 923-0841. Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. Closed Sun. 3400 W Camp Bowie Blvd. 332-3941. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-3; ice cream Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10; Sun. ice cream only. 1-9. No credit cards. $)
The Carriage House. This is a refreshing retreat from area steakhouses that are big enough to accommodate basketball tournaments. The atmosphere in the two small crystal-laden dining rooms is not quiet, but it is relaxed. The tenderloins win best of show, with South African lobster tails, mushroom appetizers and soothing brandy ices vying for second place. (5136 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 732-2873. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11, Sun 6-10; Sunday brunch: 11-2. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
Carshon’s Delicatessen. They tell us there isn’t another corned-beet sandwich in Texas like Carshon’s, and. |udging by the reputation Carshon’s has held in Fort Worth tor 40 years, we tend to agree. This deli-catessen-cum-restaurant offers good split-pea and beef and barley soups and an assortment of kosher-style food. Phone orders are accepted. Catering available in Fort Worth. (3133 Cleburne Road. (817) 923-1907. Mon-Sat 8:30-5:30, Sun 8-1 pm. Closed Wed. No credit cards. $$)
Cattlemen’s. First-time visitors are excited by the rustic Texas-style setting in the heart of the old stockyards area, but the prime steak is the thing that brings them back a second time. Blue-ribbon beeves are displayed to document the superb quality of meat that has been devoured here, but tasting is believing. When the steaks arrive, all else becomes incidental. The prime cuts of rib eye and K.C. sirloin are delectable, and the 18-ounce prime boneless strip is a third-degree sin. (2458 N Main. (817) 624-3945. Mon-Fri 11-10:30, Sat 4:30-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur. All credit cards. $$$)
Crystal Cactus. The Crystal Cactus, which gets its name from the etched-glass room dividers, is a pleasant repose and an admirable effort to provide quality dining to downtown Fort Worth The service is proficient and attentive, and the offerings are attractively presented. The rock lobster salad with tarragon dressing is delicious, and the beef tenderloin is equally well-prepared. Interesting luncheon specialties are featured during the week, including a spicy fisherman’s stew. (Hyatt Regency Hotel, 815 Main. (817) 870-1234. Dinner: daily 5-11; Sunday brunch: 11-2. Reservations, Jackets and ties required for dinner All credit cards. $$$)
Edelweiss. Edelweiss is a big. joyous beer hall with food Of course, there are German wines and beers, and a cheese soup as thick as we’ve ever tasted. For entr坢es, try the sausages in mushroom sauce or the cordon bleu Kartoffein (schnitzel stuffed with ham and cheese), which is reputed to be the house specialty The potato pancakes spiced with onion make a tasty side dish. (3801-A Southwest Blvd. (817) 738-5934. Dinner: Mon-Sat 5-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations for 10 or more. All credit cards. $$)
Hedary’s. Where else in Fort Worth can you sit down to a meal of hoummus bit-tahini (chickpea dip seasoned with lemon and garlic), khyar bil-laban (sliced cucumbers in fresh yogurt) and a plate of magdoos (pickled eggplant stuffed with walnuts)? Hedary’s is intimate, a bit idiosyncratic and thoroughly old-fashioned in its methods “No hot table, freezer, chemicals or can opener.” says the menu, and we believe it. The bread is baked while you watch. (3308 Fairfield, Ridglea Center off Camp Bowie Blvd. (817)731-6961. Tue-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 5-10. Closed Mon. No reservations. All credit cards. $$)
Joe T. Garcia’s. This Fort Worth temple to Tex-Mex serves up superior family-style Mexican staples and industrial-strength margaritas that are champions. You’ve got your beans, rice, tacos, enchiladas, tortillas and. if you must, nachos. No questions No substitutions That’s it. But it’s the best, and it makes lor an inherently good time Time alter time. (2201 N Commerce. (817) 626-4356. Mon-Fri 11-2 & 5-10:30, Sat 11-10:30. Sun 4-10. Reservations for 20 or more. No credit cards. $$)
Le Caf坢 Bowie. To our great misfortune, we were late in visiting this excellent French restaurant in an old frame house on Camp Bowie The recited menu changes daily: we enjoyed chicken and veal specialties, fresh fruit salads, soup, lots of tiny, hot homemade rolls and fresh vegetables served at very reasonable prices The service was graceful and attentive, our meal was completely relaxing Le Caf坢 Bowie may be the best restaurant in Cowtown. (4930 Camp Bowie. 735-1521. Lunch: Tue-Sun 11:30-2, Sat noon-2. dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat 6-11. Sun champagne brunch: noon-2. MC, AE, V. $$$)
London House. Many a prom date, graduate, newly engaged and golden-aged couple have celebrated at the London House. The steaks and chicken are lender and flavorful The crab. too. is tender and moist. The soup and salad bar, always a strong point, has gotten even better with the addition of items such as watermelon chunks. (4475 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-4141. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5 30-11, .Fri & Sat 5:30-midnight. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)
Massey’s. Knowing a chicken-fried steak at Mas-seys is knowing the best of the breed, the cr坢me de la cr?me, the pi?ce de r坢sistance of chicken-fned steak. The portions are huge, and the tender meat is cooked with a heavenly breading and topped with yellow creamed gravy, just the way it’s done on that great spread beyond the sunset At lunchtime, you get salad, two vegetables and homemade biscuits with your steak. Seafood and Mexican dishes are also served (1805 Eighth Ave. (817)924-8242 Daily: 8 am-10 pm. MC, V. $)
River House. This welcome spot considerably lessens the pain in a city aching for reasonably priced yet digestible seafood. The seafood platter is a delightful sampling of shrimp, oysters, fish and deviled crab And the assorted shore dinners, which include an appetizer. salad, entr坢e, drink and dessert (try the Key lime pie), are a worthy catch (1660 S University (817) 336-0815. Lunch; Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon & Tue 5-9, Wed-Sat 5-10. Reservations for six or more.AII credit cards. $$)
