This 1,000-seat North Dallas steakhouse could use a little makeover—and I’m not referring just to the outdated decor that includes all the elements of Texas kitsch, such as antler chandeliers and a ceiling painted with murals depicting cowboy-and-Indian history. When it opened in 1998, it was a bargain. Unlike other high-end steakhouses in Dallas, III Forks served your steak with a starch and a vegetable. It still does. Each order comes with choices such as duchess potatoes, sugar snap peas, off-the-cob cream corn, and ripe tomatoes and spring onions. However, the prices seem to have inched up: a 10-ounce filet is $43.95. (We recently paid $38.95 for a 9-ounce filet with carrot and potato at Bob’s.) The steaks were tasty, but the veal chop was void of seasoning. The service is friendly—at times, overly so. I knew what wine I wanted—a 2005 Inwood Estates Tempranillo Cabernet—and, after I ordered it, the server began to walk me through the list of 900 selections and try to sell me a California Cabernet—a move that left a bad taste in my mouth. Not unlike the one I encountered after one bite of the chocolate cake.

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