The front range: Pancake flavors vary from peanut butter cup to sweet potato to pineapple. Kevin Marple

Restaurants

Snooze Brings Colorado-Style Brunch Without the Snow

Does the popular chain lose anything on its trip from Colorado to Texas?

My sister and I used to stand in hourlong lines outside the original Snooze when it opened more than a decade ago in downtown Denver, helping ourselves to steaming yellow mugs of complimentary coffee as we huddled together in the Colorado snow. Now that the eco-friendly, Atomic Age-themed “am eatery” has opened an outpost in Addison, we can sip icy strawberry mimosas while we wait for a patio table, playing cornhole on the steaming sidewalk.

The sausage (Polidori), tea (Bhakti Chai), and tortillas (Raquelitas) still come from Denver, but the Dallas location carries local brews (Community Beer Co., Deep Ellum Brewing Company) and breads (Empire Baking Company). Steer clear of the corned beef hash, which, on a recent visit, was short on beef and long on grease. Instead, order anything with the delightfully tangy green chile sauce. The Chile Verde Benny starts with two stacks of corn tortillas layered with green chile and topped with pulled pork (braised, not smoked), perfectly poached eggs, and a sprinkling of pico de gallo and cotija cheese over a blanket of green chile hollandaise.

Lighter options are also available for the health-conscious, including egg-white omelets, scrambles, and frittatas with your choice of fillings. House-made granola is served with Greek yogurt and a grapefruit brulée, and you can get your daily quota of quinoa and kale topped with an egg, crisped prosciutto, and green tomato chutney.

An extensive cocktail menu rounds out the brunch offerings. Mimosas come with your choice of juice for a splash of color: orange, grapefruit, apple, lemonade, cranberry, pineapple, or house-made strawberry syrup. There’s a Palomimosa with Espolon Blanco Tequila, St. Germain liqueur, and grapefruit juice, and creative bloody marys spiced with habanero- and jalapeño-infused 1876 vodka or bacon-infused Cyrus Noble Bourbon.

But the reason my sister and I were always willing to freeze our noses off was the pancakes. Skip the Sunburst Cakes with their overly sweet topping of lemon crème anglaise in favor of the Pineapple Upside Down ones. The balance of caramel and spice is just right, in any weather.

Open daily 6:30 am to 2:30 pm. Two more area spots are in the works.

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