Sunday, February 25, 2024 Feb 25, 2024
63° F Dallas, TX

Restaurant Review: Sushi at The Mercury

The restaurant-within-a-restaurant hopes to attract a young, hungry crowd.
By |

Executive chef Chris Ward looked to his past to reshape the future of the The Mercury. He redid a small section of the 17-year-old restaurant’s dining room and hired chef Roger Man to head up the restaurant-within-a-restaurant Sushi at The Mercury. Ward and Man previously created magic together at Citizen, the sophisticated Euro-Asian bistro that closed in 2005. In contrast to the quiet, upscale space a wall away, Sushi at The Mercury is geared to attract a young crowd hungry for sushi and sashimi. I stopped in and found Man plating elaborate creations in the dimly lit 40-seat room, illuminated by flameless candles and a TV, while classic rock boomed in the background. The Yellowtail Jalapeño—thinly sliced hamachi, garlic, cilantro, and ponzu sauce—was a lovely blend of spice and citrus. The salmon carpaccio with black salt and chives sounded safe, but our waiter delivered a curious concoction. The flavor of the salmon sashimi was overpowered by shaved Parmesan and crunchy garlic chips. Service was clumsy, especially when they botched an attempt to pour a bottle of nigori sake without shaking it first. Hopefully they will work out the kinks soon. Until then, this 29-year-old will stick to finding the best $5 sashimi special at happy hours all over town.


Related Articles

Arts & Entertainment

Here’s Your Opinionated Guide to the Dallas Symphony’s Upcoming Season

The Dallas Symphony Orchestra just revealed its new season. There are plenty of big booming shows, but also more reflective options, too.

D Magazine’s 50 Greatest Stories: The Greatest Bowling Story Ever Told

There is a good chance you won't read anything better this week than "The Most Amazing Bowling Story Ever."
Local News

A Dismal Snapshot of the First Three Days of Early Primary Voting

Fewer than 2 percent of Dallas County's registered voters have cast early primary ballots. Early voting ends on March 1.