Restaurant Review: Rosemont

Chef/owner Tracy Miller has spent the last nine years creating refined and stylish American food at Local, her dinner-only restaurant in the Boyd Hotel. At Rosemont, she offers the same sensibility for breakfast and lunch. If you hit the sophisticated white-on-white dining room early on a sunny morning, keep your sunglasses on, and order a strong cappuccino topped with frothy steamed milk and flecks of cinnamon as you take a seat because it could take awhile for a menu to arrive. The service at both breakfast and lunch is disorganized. Our dainty plate with a small (but filling) oatmeal waffle with mascarpone cream and figs arrived almost hot, but scrambled eggs topped with wilted spinach and cherry tomato sauce were hard and barely warm. The two gentlemen in expensive suits across from us were living it up. They took turns popping small, sugar-coated doughnuts into each other’s mouths. The first time I lunched at Rosemont, I waited 45 minutes for half of a pimento cheese sandwich and a cup of tortilla soup. The place wasn’t full, but I got the feeling that Miller creates every dish herself, and, while we waited, I watched her carry on a long phone conversation on the outdoor patio. If you’re a big eater, skip the sandwich menu, as most are petite versions of classics such as roasted turkey, BLT, and chicken salad. The sloppy pan-fried fish sandwich with tangy coleslaw takes two hands to keep the ingredients intact. House-made waffle chips are the perfect utensil for scooping up the droppings.