Poached lobster photography by Kevin Marple

Restaurant Review: Hibiscus

The Knox-Henderson spot has matured.

Once a hot spot for flashy crowds, Hibiscus has matured into a stylish destination for discriminating diners. The menu is sophisticated, yet approachable. You can choose a world-class presentation of snapper ceviche garnished with pungent micro greens, or a decadent glob of hot Dungeness crab buried in a bubbling-hot blend of melted Parmesan, fontina, and cream cheeses. Salads are thoughtful creations. Candied cashews, feta, avocado, and tangerine slices are tossed with tender leaves of Bibb lettuce sparsely dressed with citrus vinaigrette. A generous scoop of supple burrata cheese sits atop stalks of asparagus seasoned with Meyer lemon, capers, shallots, and pine nuts. The relatively short, 15-item list of entrées is similar to those at other upscale chophouses in Dallas, but the steak, seafood, and pork options receive a seasoned chef’s touch. Delicate lobster meat is softly poached and served with fava beans flavored with chorizo. A grass-fed Wagyu bistro steak is served with skinny fries cooked in duck fat. Though the wines by the glass are pricey ($10 to $18), the majority of bottles on the list run $50 to $100. Service is friendly, not chummy, and professional.

For more information on Hibiscus, visit our restaurant guide.

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