Mediterranean salad pizza. photography by Kevin Marple

Restaurant Review: Sfuzzi

Robert Colombo's place picks up where it left off in the '80s.

If you were alive during the ’80s, you probably don’t want to go back. But it wasn’t all oversize shoulder pads: there was Sfuzzi, which opened on McKinney Avenue in 1987, bringing upscale Italian, chic decor, and an incredible scene. Why wouldn’t restaurateur Robert Colombo want to revive that? Then again, decent thin-crust pizza isn’t as rare as it used to be, and the current wave of mixologized cocktails makes Sfuzzi’s trademark frozen Bellini seem quaint. Colombo himself has wised us up about Italian at his Villa-O restaurant, whose menu Sfuzzi mirrors, right down to the portabella mushroom fries. But Dallas can always use more good, fresh Italian. Like Eddie’s summer spaghetti: house-made noodles still laudably firm, tossed with artichokes, punchy bits of pancetta, and sweet cherry tomatoes. Or the egg and bacon pizza, its crust golden and toasty, topped with rumpled sheets of prosciutto, ribbons of fresh basil, and sunny-side eggs, oozing yolky richness. White bean bruschetta had a weirdly hammy flavor, and so did the servers. (Zing!) But the scene picks up right where it left off, with long waits for the patio, newly reconfigured to make the most of the dynamic L-shaped space that wraps around this prime McKinney Avenue spot—right across the street from where the old Sfuzzi was.

Get contact information for Sfuzzi.

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