Thursday, May 23, 2024 May 23, 2024
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Review: Tramontana

photography by Kevin Hunter Marple

Hello? What did you say? Oh, you’re looking for a quiet restaurant? Have you tried Tramontana? Not only is it quiet; it’s quite good. Chef-owner James Neel has operated this bistro-style spot for almost 10 years, and it just keeps getting better. The menu is all over the place—a little American, un petit Français, a bit of Italy—and it’s seasonal and locally sourced. Pray that you get there while Neel is offering the grilled pear salad with buttered walnuts, bits of smoked bacon, and hunks of Gorgonzola tossed in a light port wine vinaigrette. If you love osso bucco, you must try Neel’s soul-soothing version—tender braised veal surrounded by risotto mixed with spinach and Parmesan cheese. A rack of lamb rubbed with herbs and Dijon comes with a house-made sausage with a gentle kick of fennel. Still hungry? Splurge on one of at least five soufflé flavors offered every night. Don’t rush home. At Tramontana, you can actually finish a conversation over another glass of port.

Get contact information for Tramontana.