Thursday, May 23, 2024 May 23, 2024
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Review: Jack’s Backyard

photography by Kevin Hunter Marple

As the name suggests, Jack’s is a casual place. The restaurant itself is just one part of a larger complex tucked next to a trailer park off of Commerce Street, just down from the Belmont Hotel. The Jack’s spread includes a spacious bar, outdoor seating area, and covered concert stage. The menu is in keeping with the laid-back vibe, sticking mostly to standards that you would eat at a family barbecue. You can’t go wrong with any iteration of the burger. The veggie version, while slightly bland, came topped with sautéed onions and roasted red peppers. The turkey patty was a standout from the norm. It was juicy and tender, without the dry, mealy consistency of its counterparts at other restaurants. The Jack’s burger, the traditional beef offering, had authentic charbroiled taste, as if it had just been taken off a Weber grill. Burgers were served on pillow-soft Kaiser rolls and came with a choice of chips or fries, which are actually skin-on mini potato wedges sprinkled with kosher salt (hint: choose the fries). There were also plenty of barbecue selections, including brisket quesadillas, which were thankfully light on cheese and stuffed with just the right amount of tender beef. For dessert, Susie’s Blue Ribbon pecan pie, ordered topped with vanilla ice cream, was a dazzler. Rich, flaky crust held a not-too-sweet filling layered with chopped pecan pieces. It was a classic finish for a place specializing in simple tastes.

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