Dressed in head-to-toe rain gear, hood pulled tight, with a pack on my back filled with wool mittens and a camera, I trek through the rainforest, surrounded by lush foliage. As I trudge up the rather steep incline, my wet socks squishing in my boots, I look up at my tour group, all of whom are at least 30 feet ahead of me. My kind tour guide, one of two on this hike, is helping me bring up the rear, offering words of encouragement. All I can think about, while the rain pours down my face, is a warm fire, dry clothes, and a glass of wine. I’m not sure I’m going to make it.
Finally, we reach our destination: Fox Glacier. Yes, a real glacier, with real ice. I put down my backpack, strap on some crampons, and tread carefully onto the slick surface, praying that I don’t slip. As my wet feet start to freeze, I continue to dream about that fire.
Welcome to New Zealand, a country that can turn even the most pampered spa princess into an outdoor enthusiast—and one of only two places in the world where you’ll find a glacier next to a rainforest. When we pause on the ice to catch our breath and take in the scenery, I persuade a nice mom from Australia to take my picture. “No one is going to believe I did this,” I tell her. “I need evidence.”
Turns out, hiking glaciers isn’t the only activity I can’t believe I did. For me, vacation usually involves five-star accommodations, fine dining, and unlimited spa treatments, preferably near a secluded beach. But here, on New Zealand’s West Coast of the Southern Alps, I hopped on a go-kart in Greymouth and drove through the rainforest, muddy water flying in my face, lapping at my legs, and seeping into my lap. I drove up the coast to Punakaiki—on the left side of the road—to see New Zealand’s famed limestone pancake rocks and blowholes, where seawater churns in a gorge, gurgles through the rocks, and forces its way out with a boom and a splash. I spied on a seal colony at Cape Foulwind and experienced the wonderment of Lake Matheson, one of the most photographed lakes in the country, with the magnificent peaks of Mount Cook and Mount Tasman reflected in the deep blue water. And the fun didn’t have to stop there. I could have gone whitewater rafting, canoeing, or glow-worm-cave exploring. Despite my initial trauma on Fox Glacier, I’m proud to say I conquered the ice.
But here’s the even better news: amid the adventure I found five-star accommodations, fine dining, and a burgeoning arts scene. And it’s precisely that diversity of activity in such proximity that makes New Zealand’s West Coast so vivacious. The drive alone is worth the long flight: narrow, winding roads run right alongside rocky beaches, then take you up and through the cliffs, then back down again. This diverse area boasts the country’s highest mountains, lowest glaciers, finest rainforest, and wildest beaches, with a long list of activities to match. If you stay in Hokitika, midway through the region, you can feed your hunger for outdoor adventure, upscale accommodations, and fine art.
After a half-day hike on Fox Glacier, I drive two hours north to Kapitea Ridge, a luxury bed-and-breakfast perched on a bluff overlooking the Tasman Sea. Kapitea Ridge is my home away from home, at least for the duration of my West Coast stay. I settle into my room overlooking the beautiful garden and watch as the sun sinks below the horizon. Then, all my dreams come true: after I change into some warm, dry clothes, I head downstairs to the lounge where I discover that crackling fire and glass of fine local wine.
I curl up on a plush purple sofa and chat with Donald Buglass and Tungia Baker, two artists living and working in Hokitika. Our hosts are Kapitea Ridge proprietors Trixie and Murray Montagu, who have thoughtfully invited Buglass and Baker to dinner, knowing they would give me a proper introduction to the West Coast arts scene. We’ve gathered in the cozy lounge, enjoying some wine and appetizers, anxiously awaiting Trixie’s succulent lamb shanks and blueberry crumble with kiwi ice cream.
Between bites of whitebait patties (whitebait is a tiny, translucent fish indigenous to the area), Baker, a Maori weaver, explains to me the allure of the West Coast thusly: “If you stay more than three days, you’ll never leave.” Luckily—or unluckily, depending on how you look at it—my trip to this part of New Zealand was exactly three days long. But that was just time enough to be seduced by the South Island’s rugged Tasman Sea coastline.
The town of Nelson, at the northern tip of the South Island, is better-known for its arts community, which boasts more than 350 working artists and craftsmen. But “Coasters,” as West Coast inhabitants are called, will tell you that their seaside location is more inspiring for artists, many of whom incorporate local materials into their work. In addition to creating watercolors and sculpture, in late January or early February, Buglass organizes Driftwood & Sand, an annual weeklong sculpture festival on the Hokitika beachfront. Baker pulls the flax right out of the river, dries it, and creates magnificent hand-woven bags, baskets, and rugs. Also plentiful in this region is nephrite jade, which is carved by artists all over the country, most notably Ian Boustridge, widely considered the finest jade carver in the world. His magnificent pieces can be found at Greymouth’s Jade Boulder Gallery and Cafe, which he owns with his wife Kay. Carey Dillon recovers wood from the native Rimu tree and turns it into stunning, finely polished bowls and platters. At his Hokitika studio just blocks from the beach, coppersmith Ian Phillips creates wonderfully whimsical, large-scale fish, dolphin, and starfish, marked by his signature rainbow-like varnish. The Montagus support many of these local artists by showcasing their pieces at Kapitea Ridge.
If you can’t stay at the Montagus’ cozy, cottage-like Kapitea Ridge, book one of three color-themed suites at the Tuscan-inspired Villa Polenza. Owners Russell and Trina Diedrichs are not just gracious hosts; they are culinary artists. After a glacier hike or a spin through the rainforest, you’ll want to come “home” to one of their spectacular three-course meals: think pastry-wrapped smoked salmon and Brie, rosemary and yogurt rack of lamb, and mascarpone with passion fruit, served in an elegant dining room just a few paces from your bed. After dinner, head out to the outdoor yet secluded porcelain tubs, pour yourself a glass of bubbly, and fantasize about tomorrow’s adventure.
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| ICE, ICE BABY: Extreme outdoor enthusiasts will love the ice caves on Fox Glacier. |
FAST FACTS
HOW TO GET THERE
All major airlines fly from DFW to LAX. From LAX, Air New Zealand (800-262-1234; www.airnewzealand.com) flies nonstop to Auckland, the country’s international hub on the North Island. From Auckland, you can fly into the tiny airport in Hokitika via Christchurch. Or pick up a rental car in Christchurch and drive the three-plus hours to Hokitika. You’ll want the car.
HOW TO GET AROUND
Kiwis drive on the left side of the road, but don’t let this intimidate you. New Zealand’s South Island is rather rural—there are only 31,000 people in the entire West Coast region—so there are very few cars on the road. Driving is by far the best way to travel for two reasons: the island is small, so driving times are really reasonable, and it’s a wonderful way to enjoy the stunning landscape. (You’ll want to stop, get out, and take a look around.) Plus, you can come and go at your leisure.
WHERE TO STAY
Kapitea Ridge
Chesterfield Rd., SH6
Kapitea Creek
RD2 Hokitika
+64 3 755 6805
www.kapitea.co.nz
Villa Polenza
Boutique Lodge
143 Brickfield Rd.
RD2 Hokitika
+64 3 755 7801
www.villapolenza.co.nz
WHAT TO BRING
The Kiwi summer is our winter, so January is sunny and warm. For many of the outdoor activities the tour operator provides the appropriate gear (usually rain-proof pants and jackets), but you’ll want to bring hard-soled shoes like hiking boots and lightweight, water-resistant clothing that you can layer. Casual attire is acceptable, if not preferred, just about everywhere. Sunglasses and sunscreen are a must, and the many rainforests guarantee lots of precipitation, so take a water-resistant jacket, too.
FOR MORE INFO
Tourism New Zealand: www.newzealand.com
Tourism West Coast: www.west-coast.co.nz
Photo: Glacier: Mick Wheeler
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Ready. Set. Go.
Art meets adventure on the West Coast.
Hokitika
Ian Phillips Copper Art Studio
Watch the coppersmith at work, then purchase a red snapper or octopus.
32 Revell St. +64 3 755 6336
Fox Glacier
Alpine Guides Fox Glacier offers half- or full-day hikes and heli-hikes.
+64 3 751 0825; www.foxguides.co.nz
Greymouth
On Yer Bike! specializes in guided but muddy treks through the rainforest.
+64 3 762 7438; www.onyerbike.co.nz
Wild West Adventure Company provides adventures like whitewater rafting.
+64 3 768 6649; www.nzhoidayheaven.com
Jade Boulder Gallery and Cafe is a retail shop (Ian Boustridge’s fabulous pieces), studio, cafe, and museum in one.
+64 3 768 0700; www.jadeboulder.com
Punakaiki
Green Kiwi Tours can provide a guide for the pancake rocks and blowholes.
+64 3 731 1024; www.greenkiwitours.co.nz
Punakaiki Crafts
Browse the gallery-like shop brimming with carvings, jewelry, ceramics, textiles, glass objects, and works on paper by West Coast artists. +64 3 731 1813; www.punakaikicrafts.co.nz
