Barbecue
Red, Hot & Blue. The pulled pig and pulled chicken, whether served alone or on a sandwich, can’t be beat. Tender and moist, perfectly lean, their barbecue sauce may be mild, but the food delivers big taste. Smoked turkey draws applause for its mild, smooth flavor, but the brisket tumbles from mildness into blandness. Barbecued, smoked chicken falls off its bones and the wet ribs had it all over the dry ones (too crusty with baked-on spices). Side dishes are super, from potato salad that brings memories of Mom to a zesty corn relish. 5017 W. Piano Pkwy., Ste. 100. Piano, 248-3866. Inexpensive.
Sonny Bryan’s, The basic barbecue sandwich plate remains as fresh and new as the day the late Sonny first lit the fire in the barbecue pit: tender, flavorful meat piled on a soft bun. accompanied by wondrously spicy sauce, smoky beans and creamy cole slaw with a hint of tartness. The onion rings are to be treasured, a crusty shell around a soft, piping hot, sweet onion. The food may be as good at the new locations, but like an old hometown, the gritty ambience of the original must be visited from time to time. 2202 Inwood Rd., 357-7120; and other locations. Inexpensive.
Brewpubs
Breckenridge Brewery. This sleek, woody establishment, much larger than the mother ship in Colorado, comes with the slightly irritating supply-before-demand trappings of success: T-shirts and other Breckenalia are for sale, before you even thought to ask. But the confidence may be well-founded. Besides being one of the prettiest brewpubs so far (the humongous beer-can collage is art, damn it), at least two of the five beers-India Pale Ate and Oatmeal Stout-are first-class creations. To wash down your drink, try the superb prawn appetizer, then move on to duck enchiladas, fish tacos, or the pulled pork sandwich. The brew-pub sweepstakes are getting crowded, and the winner is- well, stay tuned. 1907 McKinney Ave., 965-0007. Inexpensive.
Copper Tank Brewery. 2600 Main St.. 744-2739. Inexpensive.
Hubcap Brewery A Kitchen. 1701 N. Market St., 651-0808. Moderate.
The Rock Bottom Brewery. Generous appetizers could make their own meal, especially the asiago cheese dip or signature green pork chili. Pizzas arrive lava-hot on cracker-thin crust; try the bourbon beef (with homemade steak sauce] or double-smoked bacon (with spinach, goat cheese and roasted garlic). Smoked chicken enchiladas were some of the best we’ve tried-really. How’s the beer? Thought you’d never ask. Six regular brews range from ultra-light (Coyote Western Ale and Palomino Pale Ale) to deep and roasty (Pelican Brown Ale and our fave, Roadrunner Stout). Falcon Red is a nice compromise. 4050 Belt Une Rd., 404-7456. Moderate.
Ronth Street Brewery and Grill. For starters, try the musky, rich mushroom soup and a heaping bowl of buttery ale-steamed mussels. Fried fish and chips were hearty and crisp and the Wiener schnitzel is huge and delectable. A hickory-grilled half chicken was to swoon over, accompanled by horse radish-seen ted whipped potatoes and a rosy pear-and-red cabbage melange. The beer is also noteworthy. Try the sampler of five two-ounce servings that will help you settle on one to drink with your dinner. The desserts, however, were disappointing-the spiced apple strudel’s crust has a toughness reminiscent of microwaved pastries. 3011 Routh St., 922-8835. Moderate.
Two Rows Restaurant & Brewery. 5500 Greenville Ave., Ste. 1300, 696-2739. Moderate.
Yegua Creek Brewing Co. The brewery is next to the bar behind a glass enclosure, so you can watch the polished aluminum and brass tanks make suds while you sip (tours are held Saturdays at 3 p.m.). After our own sips on the beer sampler-four-ounce tastes of four beers and two ales-we thought the whole batch was rather flat save for the cherry wheat. The menu has some great appetizers: The Gulf Coast crawfish cakes in tomatillo chile butter burst with spice and hearty flavor, and the Texas Tower-O-Rings (onion rings) have to be seen to be believed. The entrées, however, were inconsistent. The wild game mixed grill-quail, elk, and lamb and duck sausage-was delicious save (or the elk, The Texas Fresh Cut, a blackened filet, was fatty and a little tough. 2920 N. Henderson Ave.. 824-2739. Inexpensive to moderate.
Burgers/Casual
Chip’s 0Id-Fashioned Hamburgers. 4501 Cole Ave., 526-1092. Inexpensive.
Dave & Buster’s, The Prime Directive here has always been to serve fun, fun. fun with food on the side. But, the friendly and competent waiters and the prettily appointed dining room deserve better support from the kitchen. A cheeseburger was grilled perfection; a Philly chicken cheesesteak decent if overpriced; and the polio grande-a whopping, undercooked chicken breast drenched with enchilada sauce and accompanied by tasteless julienne vegetables-was no fun at all. Stick with the burgers and a cold one from a great beer list, which includes the excellent Pilser Urquel. Walnut Hill at Central Expressway (in the Corner Shopping Center), 361-5553. Inexpensive.
Mac’s Bar & Grill. 2301 N. Central Expwy., Piano, 881-2804. Inexpensive to moderate.
The Ozona Westex Grill and Bar. Set back amid a tangle of trees, this popular gathering spot provides a surprisingly cool, green, countrified retreat in the city. There are no real surprises, and although there are grilled options like salmon salad and a chicken dinner, a bit too heavy reliance on deep frying may well dismay cholesterol counters. A bottle of domestic beer starts at $2.75. there are abundant lunch specials and the portions are very generous; Order conservatively on your first visit. 4615 Greenville, 265-9105. Inexpensive to moderate.
The Pub. Keeping in mind that the British aren’t exactly known for their food, this restaurant turns out some pretty respectable grub, like meat filled pasties (a British pie). bangers (sausages), light, good homemade mashed potatoes and greaseless fried fish and chips (little potato wedges). Nordstrom, 13350 Dallas Pkwy., first level, 702-0055, ext. 1620. Inexpensive.
Snuffer’s. There’s has a limited menu, but it’s hard to go wrong with burgers, the chicken sandwich, or the chicken Caesar salad. Go early on weekend nights, as the crowds build quickly. 3526 Greenville Ave., 826-6850; 14910 Midway Rd., Addison. 991-8811. Inexpensive.
Cajun/Creole
Copland’s of New Orleans. 5353 Belt Line Rd.. 661-1883. Moderate.
Crescent City Cafe. 2615 Commerce St.. 745-1900. Inexpensive.
LuLu’s Bait Shack. Cajun cuisine with regional nuances ranging from hot to hotter. Buffalo shrimp are hotsy-totsies nicely balanced in a blue cheese dip, and jambalaya carries a major kick. For tamer tongues, try the Chicken Rockafella with oysters, cheese and spinach. Homey mashed Mardi Gras pasta is a mixture of fresh vegetables with capers and sun-dried tomatoes, while a lunch trip’s oyster po-boy proved a happy marriage of corn meal-battered oysters with tomato, lettuce and mayo, the plate fetchingly sprinkled with paprika. 2621 McKinney Ave., 969-1927. Inexpensive to moderate.
Chinese
Cale Panda. The personnel here make you feel at home from the get-go, and meticulous attention to detail guarentées return visits. Start with sublime quail curl, minced and seasoned to perfection, served in fresh, cold iceburg lettuce leaves, and watch as a team of servers perform a near-ballet in bringing it to your table. Tangerine beef was exceptional; delicate beef strips cooked to a sizzle, blended in a delightful sauce with fruity, chewy tangerine shreds. General Tao’s chicken is offered elsewhere, but rarely done as well; spicy, honest-to-goodness chicken breast that’s hot but not hellishly so. with no nuggety. gristly pieces. Order coffee and enjoy the Jules Verne-ian brewing device they bring to your table. 7979 Inwood Rd., Ste. 121, 902-9500. Inexpensive to moderate.
Cathy’s Pacific. At this ambitious offshoot of Piano’s Cathy’s Wok. Chinese-American dishes dominate the menu along with “light and healthy” entrées. Appetizers both hit and miss-meaty honey-garlic wings start a meal well, as do skewers of satay chicken, but pot stickers disappoint with their nondescript filling, and beef satays are tough. Seafood dishes are a good bet here, and the single best item might be the Vietnamese bouillabaisse, loaded with savory king crab, plump shrimp, miniature clams and seaworthy scallops. Cathy’s uses top ingredients, from jumbo nuts in the cashew chicken to the crisply sautéed vegetables in the spring rolls. Note: Food can be ordered moderately hot, hot, or extra hot. Go with hot. 5950-A Royal Ln., 739-3378. Inexpensive to moderate.
Jasmine. Ersatz nightclub ambience collides with hustle-bustle service, but freshly prepared cuisine fortunately transcends both. Exquisite Ming chicken, redolent with spices and served in a crispy cold iceberg lettuce shell, was almost a meal in itself. Some like it hot, opting for Hunan and Szechwan beef-tender, generous helpings and prodigious heat rewarded the palates of even the most jaded jalapeno fans. The ubiquitous general chicken featured tender chunks of meat and fiery peppers; try champagne chicken for a cooler, If somewhat bland, warm-weather treat. One tiny gripe: The overly attentive tea and water filler-uppers tend to hover like pesky mosquitoes. 4002 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 991-6867. Inexpensive to moderate.
May Dragon. Happily, May Dragon lives up to its beautiful setting with a quality of food far superior to that found in most Chinese restaurants. Moo shirolls strike the right balance between sweet (plum sauce), crunchy (bamboo shoots and cabbage) and savory (shredded beef). Lemon chicken transcends the stickily sweet stuff served in most other places. This version’s lemony bite toned down the sugar, and the fried white-meat chicken strips retained not a bit of the grease. However, a house specialty, five-flavor shrimp, has a neon red sauce sweet enough to make your teeth ache, and the fried rice served with entrées (you can opt for plain white or brown rice) needs some rethinking, as it’s pretty much white rice with a few peas and carrots. May Dragon’s beautiful bar area gives you another reason to visit. 4848 Belt Line Rd., 392-9998. Moderate.
New Big Wong. If you’re up for a quick and tasty lunch, this place delivers large portions of fare in fast-food time-you’ll be astonished. If a more leisurely dinner is the object, the complex menu rewards experimentation. 2121 S. Greenville Ave., 821-4198. Inexpensive.
Royal China. We expected to see the Partridge family dining with the Bradys at this unintentionally retro neighborhood Chinese spot-furnishings and wall facings reflect its former incarnation a zillion years ago as a quasi-Indian place called Safari. Neighboring diners seemed happy and content, so we waited in anticipation for our general chicken and green pepper beef. And waited. And waited. And watched everybody else eat. When we asked our harried waiter to check on our order, he snapped “Coming now!” Sure enough, two minutes later, the chicken arrived. Three minutes after that, so did the beef. Verdict? Good. A bit on the bland side, with rather small portions, but on the positive side, prices were right-just not worth the wait. Maybe we caught a new waiter with bad manners? We never received an explanation for the delay, but the check was johnny-on-the-spot. 201 Preston Royal Shopping Center. 361-1771. Inexpensive.
Szechwan Pavilion. Peking duck aficionados love the fact that this classic Chinese entrée is available at Szechwan Pavilion anytime, in half or whole portions, without the customary need to call ahead and order it. Tableside, waiters brush the delicate pancakes with hoisin sauce, then layer on perfectly roasted duck, crispy skin and wisps of seal-lions, and present the rolled-up treats on a platter ringed with slices of orange. Top-quality ingredients star here, from the fat shrimp in the vegetable-loaded sizzling rice soup to the juicy roast pork in the lo mein. Szechwan beef, marked as spicy, had just the right amount of burn. The “wonderful shrimp” would be more wonderful if they weren’t coated in a soggy batter, but they sure are big. butterflied beauties. 8411 Preston Rd., 368-4303. Inexpensive.
Taiwan Restaurant. 4980 Belt Line Rd., Ste. 200. Addison, 387-2333. Moderate.
Uncle Tai’s. When it opened more than 10 years ago, Uncle Tai’s earned massive acclaim, but lately it’s been coasting too much on its reputation. The “two delicacy” cold platter spunkily begins a meal, especially it it teams slivered chicken in an assertive sesame sauce with peppercorn-topped tender prawns, but meals can slide rapidly downhill to candy-sweet “hot, spicy shrimp” and over-tenderized chicken with cashews. Spring rolls start off well, with a grease-less crisp crunch, but the lilting remains a mystery. The setting, overlooking the wannabes on The Galleria’s Ice skating rink, offers more enjoyment than the food does. In The Galleria, 13350 Dallas Pkwy., 934-9998. Moderate.
Coffeehouses
Java Jones. 3211 Oak Lawn Ave.. 528-2099. Inexpensive.
Deli
Dell News. This New York-style deli is dark and uninviting with rudely inattentive service (perhaps a stab at regional authenticity?) that’s slower than a fat slug in mid-fall. The chicken barley soup-a “specialty”-was dull, limp and gooed with overcooked bow-tie pasta. The Greek salad was fresh and crisp, if unexciting, while the BLT had little else to offer besides its thick, chewy bacon. We had our deli-hearts set on a smoked fish platter, but we placed three “sorry, we’re out” orders before a plate of flavorful, yet mushy sable arrived. Our consolation was the authentic bagels: fresh, light and thoroughly satisfying. Crescent Court Hotel, Maple at Cedar Springs. 922-3354. Inexpensive to moderate.
D REVISITS Gilbert’s. Just one glimpse of Gilbert’s classic deli menu starts the stomach juices churning, causing noses to twitch at those so-familiar deli smells of spicy pastrami, steaming chicken noodle soup and sizzling frankfurters. Gilbert’s doesn’t disappoint, from the finest gnlled Reuben in town to overstuffed sandwiches on good rye. The club sandwich is the classic version, with plenty of house-roasted, thinly sliced turkey, preceded by a choice of deli salads (great slaw) and a bowl of chubby pickles. The menu lists it all-potato pancakes, stuffed cabbage, even kippers and eggs and matzo brie. You can order from an extensive breakfast menu all day long, where the plate-sized pancakes and the hearty omelets make decisions difficult. Gilbert’s good corned beef stars in the hash, but the orange-y home fries need , work. Chug down a Dr. Brown’s soda or a chocolate egg cream and contemplate visiting the take-out section next for a few sandwiches for later. 11661 Preston Rd., 373-3333. Inexpensive.
Street’s. 4246 Oak Lawn Ave.. 526-2505. Inexpensive.
Eastern European
Athenée Cafe. Inhabiting an unlikely strip-mall spot near an auto parts store. Athénée Cafe bills itself as “Texas’ Only Rumanian & Eastern European Restaurant Since 1986,” (at its current location since 19891 and the aromatic fragrances of ancient Europe will whisk you back a century or two. Wonderful Veal Athénée features tender, fresh medallions topped with provolone in a delightful brandy mushroom sauce, with delicious spicy cabbage and flaky rice pilaf. Stuffed Mountain Cabbage is a fabulous signature dish-meatball-sized beef rolls oven-roasted in delicate cabbage leaves with a red wine sauce, just like grandma in Transylvania used to make. Other highlights include Rumanian sausage, hand-packed dally, and veal chop, fin-, ished in the pan with dill and mushrooms in white wine sauce. Forget the house salad-try the silky tomato-based spicy vegetable soup instead. Garlic bread is bland but forgivable, the wine list adequate, the service attentive and caring. 5365 Spring Valley. Ste. 150,239-8060. Moderate.
Eclectic
Blind Lemon. The beer’s cold, the ambience and attitude funky, so it’s a cryin’ shame that Blind Lemon falls some-what short in the food category. Barbecue chicken pizza was laden with tender breast and gooey cheese, but the doughy crust was barely done, and served lukewarm. The ground turkey sandwich sounded like a healthful respite from burgers, but the mealy result, accompanied by oily fries, was a big disappointment. Service was well-meaning, but poorly informed about meal ingredients. We’ll go back for a brew or two. but until culinary aspirations match delivery, we’ll probably dine elsewhere. 14902 Preston Rd. at Belt Line. Addison, 458-0458. Inexpensive to moderate.
Bread Winners. The menu here reflects a never-boring mélar>ge of influences, from homey fa simple garden salad of lettuces, spinach, mushrooms, carrots and cabbage bathed in creamy fresh vinaigrette) to refined Asian (a starter of Thai shrimp scampi mounts great spicy curls of Shrimp on crisp cilantro noodles). Main courses cut a similar broad swath-a center-cut mustard-grilled pork chop comes thick, juicy and perfectly partnered with scalloped sweet potatoes and pan gravy; grilled tuna steak, rosy and near-rare, wears a tropical salsa of spiced diced fruit. Try it with a side of lemon whipped potatoes, the citrus accent a delightful presence alongside the plate’s crisp tortilla salad. Desserts here are outst6nding, too-key lime pie holds a paper-thin curl of lime atop its tart, dream-cream filling; a to-die-for something called Banana Jazz features fantasy swirls of chocolate mousse and whipped cream layered with sliced bananas on a dark chocolate crust. 3301 McKinney Ave., 754-4940. Inexpensive to moderate.
Cats Society. Bring a book, a journal or someone with whom you can easily slip into well-seasoned conversation, and sample the coffees from a lengthy list that includes a 16-ounce, layered mocha, an espresso milk shake and the Society Float: espresso over ice cream. The food? While the dishwater-flat vegetable corn lentil soup should be skipped, the entrées croon with silky flavors. The artichoke spinach-stuffed manicotti is rich, yet texturally light and elegant. The marinated skirt steak is juicy with a clean wisp of smoke and spice, and the accompanying dollop of orange peppercorn-spiced salsa screams with disciplined zest. Self-serve. 4514 Travis St.. 528-6543. Inexpensive to moderate.
Deep Ellum Cafe. 95001 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 392-0894. Inexpensive to moderate.
East Side Grill. Chef Tony Knight, whose Aransas Pass restaurant formerly occupied this space, offers down-home dishes endowed with kicky accents that lift them above common bar food. Notable examples: Chicken-fried steak came with terrific twice-baked mashed potatoes and a healthy stir-fry of vegetables. An Aransas burger was a patty of broiled sirloin with roasted poblanos and onions and jack cheese. The 10-ounce strip steak was gilded with onion braised in Jack Daniels sauce. The homemade salsa that accompanies the chicken quesadillas can make your eyes water from 4 feet away, and fried pickles were surprisingly delicious in nicely seasoned, greaseless crumb crust. 2916 N. Henderson Ave., 828-2801. Inexpensive.
8.0 Restaurant and Bar. Get to this hip spot early or risk missing out on imaginative blue- and green-plate specials, such as black bean tamales in a tomatillo sauce or spicy pasta specialties. Not that the regular menu is a dud; burgers, grilled dishes and sandwiches are hearty, fresh and satisfying. Waitresses are uniformly young, attitude-enhanced and efficient. Stay the hell away on Thursday nights unless you like to watch the beautiful people booze and schmooze should-to-shoulder until the wee hours. In the Quadrangle. 2800 Routh St.. 979-0880, Inexpensive to moderate.
Fox and Hound. Although the restaurant calls itself an “English Pub and Grill, “don’t look for toad-in-the-ho!e here. Despite the silly British names that dot the menu, m’lord will encounter hearty half-pound burgers, steak fries, enormous onion rings, rich beer-cheese soup, pasta, blackened salmon and prime rib. The beer list offers more than 100 labels both in bottles and on draft. But while the food Is good, the service on two visits was extremely slow and inattentive. 18918 Midway Rd., 732-0804. Inexpensive to moderate.
Gershwin’s. The ambitious menu walks many fine lines with a presumptive air and succeeds more often than not, but don’t expect a true gourmet experience-seasonings are either too strong, as with overpowering, too-salty pasta sauces, or bland and hotel food-like, such as grilled tilapia on warm orzo salad. Best bets are the more traditional ones-steaks, pizzas, salads and sandwiches, all generous, tasty and satisfying. 8442 Walnut Hill Ln., 373-7171. Moderate.
D REVISITS The Grape. Could we have felt more Parisian? Here we were, snug at a sidewalk table under a fan-hung canopy, watching a light rain diffuse Greenville Avenue traffic into a twilit water-color as we polished off our wine with the baked Camembert-little wheel of molten cheese, crowned with Bing cherry and cabernet preserves, flung with walnut bits, composed on the plate with ruddy grapes, fanned pear and apple halves and berries. As was the rest of the meal: A chilled soup of surpassing subtlety laced the freshness of ripe tomato with a muscular undertone of roasted garlic; a high-piled toss of baby greens ringed with golden tomato wedges wore a Balsamic vinaigrette that was positively thrilling-we’ve had lesser salads at three times the price. Ditto entrees; this restaurant offers some main courses in two sizes, correspondingly priced; the smaller portion of macadamia-crusted rainbow trout was more than ample, two boneless halves in a lightly curried yellow bell-pepper sauce, with a vegetable bouquet of broccoli, snow peas, red bell pepper and julienned squash plus golden yam and plantain chips. Braised lamb shanks, a huge serving, melted from the bone in their rich, winey jus on a bed of wilted bok choy, with horseradish-nipped whipped potatoes and the same veggie nosegay under crisp tobacco leek shreds. As always, by-the-glass wines were generously poured and moderately priced, and service mirrored the establishment’s customary indulgence with small attentions. 2808 Greenville Ave., 828-1981. Moderate to expensive.
Piano Cafe. Choose the mixed green salad instead of the Caesar, and opt for the zingy raspberry vinaigrette. A feast of perfectly cooked vegetables accompanies each generous meal, and most people leave loaded with leftovers. Juicy, freshly grilled roast chicken with red pesto penne draws loyal fans, and vegetarians will find much to choose from. Two more surprises: a decent wine list and a winner of a dessert list. A warm French apple pie {homemade, like everything else here) accompanied by homemade Chambord/Frangelico ice cream, whipped cream and berries, offers caloric heaven. 1915 N. Centrai Expwy.,Ste. 500. Piano. 516-0865. Moderate.
Sipango. Chef Matthew Antonovich’s menu sets out an array of selections various enough to allow for grazing or snacking as well as course-by-course dining. An appetizer of tuna seared rare, for example, made a perfect starter for a light supper, presented as thin, ruddy petals fanned with sassy fresh greens dressed in ginger-soy vinaigrette; a small-plate dish of mushroom-fortified risotto, deep-flavored and zipped with mellow Reggiano parmesan, completed a meal we found entirely satisfying. On the more substantial side, an entrée of veal marsala covered its plate with classically sauced thin slices draped on a cushion of polenta, accented with wild mushrooms 3nd Texas goat cheese. Too sated even to consider the richer desserts at hand, we found the house-made sorbettos altogether captivating-watermelon, fresh and luscious, won out over a more exotic red papaya sampled. Service was amiable, with some timing lapses; live music was a treat, once the too-loud cocktail pianist made way for a combo: people-watching was its own entertainment. 4513 Travis St., 522-2411, Moderate.
The Thomas Avenue Beverage Company. A few months ago. this was strictly an Uptown moisturizing divot for the young and strenuously hip. But now this cozy neighborhood bar-spiced with rich wood and sloppily mortared bricks-packs culinary zip. Chef Mark Jensen chalks up new, inventive fare on the menu board every Thursday. The steamed mussels-some of the best we’ve tasted-were sweet, delicate and smartly seasoned. Well-soaked in lime-garlic-butter-white wine sauce, the grilled sea bass was fresh, succulent and bristling with crisp, tightly focused flavors. The wine list, a crinkled laser print-out with edits scribbled in blue ink C ’cause we’re working out the kinks’) was void of those obese mark-ups that draw cold sweat from the wallets of all Out the most hardened, expense-accounted diners. And this place has history: It was a liquor store/pool hall in the ’30s and Jack Ruby’s favorite spot for morning eggs in the ’50s. 2901 Thomas Ave.. 979-0452. Inexpensive to moderate.
French/Continental
Addison Cafe. Incongruously located in a strip-mall shopping center across from Prestonwood Mall. Addison Cafe presents some contradictions-our pan-seared snapper melted like butter, but the smoked salmon topping was somewhat dry and chewy. Sautéed sea bass arrived crispy, perfectly moist and flaky, yet bread rolls tasted store-bought. And since service is studiously languorous, we were never quite sure who our waiter was. Admittedly minor, these quibbles still bear watching. But even in its time-warp 1980s decor of black lacquer and mirrors, Addison Cafe is a casual, refreshing oasis of European style in the midst of this frenzied shopping mecca. Prestonwood Place, 5290 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 991-8824. Moderate to expensive.
Arthur’s. This restaurant’s reputation as a prime steak place is deserved, but too limiting. The kitchen’s ways with seafood, veal, fowl and even pasta are winners, too, and who can fault an appetizer list that includes shrimp cocktail, escargot and steak tartare proudly prepared with old-world pomp at tableside? Fresh sea scallops sautéed and sauced with a kiss of Dijon mustard and a whisper of lemon and capers struck an exquisite balance. Rack of lamb’s rosy chops were fork-tender and appropriately sided with a tomato rose and vegetables carved in the presentation-conscious French fashion. Seduced by ceremony, we forewent dessert souffles to share bananas Foster, not on the menu, but lovingly prepared, flamed and served by our waiter as we watched. Cherries jubilee are another unlisted indulgence; we’ll save those for the restaurant’s upcoming 50th anniversary. And for the 60th? Who knows? Vive les classiques! 8350 N, Central Expwy. (in Campbell Center). 361-8833. Expensive.
Bonjour. For starters, feast on the wealth of appetizers, such as the lightly sweet and peppery pheasant pate and the garlicky sausage. Or try a French classic like escargots, foie gras pate, frog legs or the aioli with plump shrimp. We enjoyed the aioli so much, we tried all the sauces: gorgonzola, marinara, peppercorn and shallot, each available with the day’s choices of fish, meat and poultry. Entrées come with nicely seasoned, well-prepared vegetables: The potato gratin in a garlicky cream sauce tasted great. Other excellent choices include made-to-order omelets and the individual-size quiche Lorraines. Skip the sandwiches for now-they need some work and should be made on something other than the lackluster baguettes. You can also call for delivery of one of Bonjour’s appetizer trays-great for those Monday night football parties. 3850 W. Northwest Hwy., Ste. 510. 350-3467. Moderate.
Chez Gerard. This quintessential little French restaurant with its flowery wallpaper, lace curtains and cozy feel brings to mind your grandmother’s dining room. However, Grandma never cooked like this, and she sure didn’t offer wines like these. The classic French onion soup, crowned with toasted bread and melted cheese, makes a nicely sized, thoroughly satisfactory appetizer, as does a zesty dish of mixed seafood with avocado and lime. The heady-with-mustard dressing coating the tender greens and wisps of mushroom make the house salad a winner and perk up the palate for what follows. The menu is resolutely French, with intensely flavored crawfish soufflés, delicate beef in a wonderful peppery sauce and the best pommes frites around. Desserts, from the cloud-Ailed praline soufflé to the crusty crème brulée, should never be skipped. 4444 McKinney Ave., 522-6865. Moderate.
The French Room. Perfection is not a word to be tossed lightly into restaurant reviews, but this Adolphus Hotel crown jewel came as close as humankind can to deserving it on our last visit. A tower of smoked salmon, avocado, papaya and crisp potato tuiles glistened in its basil oil-papaya vinaigrette; pan-seared Ahi tuna medallions were meltingly tender alongside crisply ruffled pot stickers stuffed with shrimp, foie gras and crab. Tomato bisque was smoky flavored and rich with roasted pine nuts and porci-ni ravioli, and a warm salad of Belgian endive and fresh spinach played candied walnut crunch against rosemary-walnut vinaigrette under fresh pear julienne. One entrée plate presented rounds of roasted duck breast on half moons of lemon thyme polenta in ruby port wine sauce, sided with a nosegay portion of baby haricots verts, asparagus, carrot and cucumber slices; the other held succulent roasted veal tenderloin with Brie cheese and pear gratin on truffled opal basil risotto and a haunting rosemary thyme sauce. One dessert was a light sin-a méiange of fresh berries bedded on pastry with warm caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream; the other, a dark one-hot chocolate cake, rich and crusty around a molten center, ice-cream topped on Amaretto crème Anglaise. One interesting side note: One of us had the prix fixe chef’s menu, $56 sans wine; the other’s a la carte selection, expected to be more expensive, actually totaled a dollar less. And we’d challenge anyone to tell which was which. Oh. and the French Room’s by the-glass wine selection offers a nicer variety than we’ve seen elsewhere; red-carpet valet parking costs diners nothing but a tip to the attendant to whom you hand your validated ticket. In the Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce St.. 742-8200. Expensive.
La Petite Maison. From our first thrilling spoonful of soup to the last plate-scraping nibble of chocolate creme, Barone’s fare was beautifully prepared, presented and served. Take the lobster bisque, for example. Its deep auburn color hinted at its lush, splendid flavor. Also good was the seafood starter of smoked salmon, scallops and shrimp flung with capers and green onion. The “Grand Mere” oven-roasted chicken, sprinkled lavishly with hearty smoked bacon squares, was served with carved potatoes and tiny onions. The pork medallions zinged with Dijon mustard and a side of garlic whipped potatoes and baby carrots, while roasted rack of lamb featured three rib chops on a bed of toothsome couscous spiced with subtle curry. The dessert we tried-silken chocolate creme under a tepee of fragile pastry triangles rooted in whipped cream and a layer of raspberries-was a dramatic creation. 2917 Fairmount St.. 855-0700. Moderate.
Old Warsaw. Recipe fora ruined evening: Take three unsuspecting diners. Batter heavily with bullying service, sneering occasionally. Let steep In rising resentment until sullen (about two hours); then, working quickly, apply gratuitous overcharge to bring to boiling point. Drain and discard. And so it went on our last visit. Most of the food was as fine as we’ve always found it-Brie soup was a mushroom-rich joy; lobster crepes lay plumply filled on their dark and light sauces. Duckling roasted with fresh pears and black currant sauce was a succulent triumph, and a mighty veal chop crowned with lump crab meal was positively regal, augmented by a side of fresh fettuccine with earthy wild mushrooms and truffle butter. Au contraire. Grand Marnier souffle, promised as a grand double-si zed-fort wo version, came from the kitchen as two ordinary single portons, undistinguished in taste or texture. Worse, a menu-described “puff pastry with fresh tropical fruit” was partially inedible, the pastry burned black and too tough to cut, the fruit merely local, although fresh. Worst of all were a starter of salmon tartare and an “Old Warsaw Special Salad.” ordered as a light entree. The tartare, rather than prepared at the table as billed, was brought as a soggy scoop, the delicate fish eclipsed by strong-tasting components, mustard most apparent. The salad, involving a scant bed of Boston lettuce leaves strewn with hearts of palm, ordinary pickled mushrooms and two carefully placed winter-pale tomato eighths, besides being dismally unappetizing was doubled in price on the check. Without going into detail on the long, long wait for partial correction on top of high-pressure tactics endured throughout the meal, the moral to be drawn here Is that in establishments of stellar reputation, an occasional lapse in food execution can be excused: rude, bullying service cannot-a message our minimal 10 percent tip was meant to convey. 2610 Maple Ave., 528-0032. Expensive.
The Pyramid Boom. That vastly overused word, opulence, has to be hauled out yet again here-the Fairmont Hotel’s flagship restaurant demands it; here is service and ambience that beggar less extravagant description. The food, too, on our visit, deserved superlatives, albeit not quite as glowing ones for the prix-fixe menu (four courses, $29 sans wine) as for pricier a la carle selections. Grilled quail halves were pretty little things on Marsala-glazed arugula leaves; cream of turnip soup with toasted pumpkin seeds was too subtle (read: bland) to stir excitement, but grilled snapper with shiitake mushrooms in lobster butter sauce was satisfying. Macadamia nut torte was a dense disappointment, particular!/ compared to a companion’s a la carte dessert indulgence-a gooey dome of warm chocolate polenta filled with caramel, on bourbon-laced sauce with vanilla ice cream. The courses preceding that sin were stellar, too- duck confit was tenderness itself in a wine-poached pear; lobster bisque was satin-rich and cognac-kissed: herb-crusted rack of lamb, four rosy baby chops, came with chèvre-sharpened mashed potato and jewel-pretty vegetable pearls on rosemary mint sauce. The companion’s tab passed the $50 mark, but you could hardly ask for more cosseting or more comfort at any price than that provided by this serenely cosmopolitan restaurant. Great wines, too, and live music. Fairmont Hotel, 1717 N. Akard St., 720-5249, Expensive.
The Riviera. 7709 Inwood Rd., 351-0094. Expensive.
Water’s. This homey little restaurant, half of it an art-filled cozy interior and half an enclosed patio, might have been lifted, menu intact, right off a Paris or Brussels side street. The menu features brains, rabbit and sweetbreads for sophisticated customers, but also plenty of pasta, grilled fish and vegetarian dishes for the less brave. And a filling appetizer of toast rounds served with a zesty eggplant relish and an intense tapenade is a steal at $3.50. As enticing as these regular favorites are. don’t miss the daily specials, like heaps of incredibly tiny mussels in a cream-enhanced garlicky broth. Another nice touch: a cheese plate for dessert, with a half-dozen types of perfectly ripe cheeses, carefully trimmed fruit slices and a freshly heated basket of bread. On lazy Sunday afternoons, customers can order from Watel’s regular lunch menu or opt for one of the brunch specials. 1923 McKinney Ave.. 720-0323. Moderate.
Gourmet to Go
Betty’s Brisket and Gourmet Foods. 17390 Preston Rd., 931-9094. Inexpensive.
Eetzl’s. Okay, it’s not a restaurant, but the prepared foods and breads you can buy at this unique market make it worth frequent trips to turn a meal in your own dining room into a special occasion. Make your way to the bread shelves, where you’ll find 14 varieties and enough spreads and fillings to make you dizzy. At the salad counter, just describe the salad of your dreams and they’ll toss it together. For an effortless meal, try one of the chickens from the wood-burning oven, a steak from the butcher’s counter, or one of the dozens of prepared foods. The quality of the deli meats is unsurpassed. 3403 Oak Lawn Ave., 526-1515. Inexpensive to moderate.
La Spiga. You may have to track down La Spiga, tucked away in a warehouse area, but it’s well worth the effort. Customers line up to buy these rustic, crusty loaves of preservative-free bread served at many of the finest restaurants in town. But there’s plenty more being dished up here, including tureens of homemade soup (excellent cream of mushroom) and sandwiches on big, soft pillows of panini rolls. Mini-quiches and fruit plates fill the bill for anytime snacks, focaccia comes pizza-style, and Caesar salads are a garlicky hit. 4203 Lindberg Dr., Addison, 934-8730. Inexpensive.
Marty’s. Marty’s, long the king of gourmet shopping in the Dallas area, has recently come under siege from trendier rivals. Call us quaint, but we much prefer Marty’s friendly, non-snob ambience to the “do-us-a-favor” din of frantic new comers. Sample new Italian cheese, low-fat Vietnames chicken salad, or Ann’s Marinated Shrimp in Marty’ relaxed cozy aisles. Browse the tapenades, flavored olive and grapeseed oils, vinegars and vinaigrettes, marinades aromatic coffees and teas, sumptuous, girth-enhancing chocolate truffles and delicate sorbets. Marty’s hallmark though, is service; their wine experts, for example, fiek questions from beginners and savants with equal aplomb and courtesy. 3316 Oak Lawn Ave., 526-4070. Inexpensive to moderate.
Greek
Kostas Cafe . 4621 W. Park Blvd.. Plano, 596-8424 Moderate.
Ziziki’s The gleaming wooden bar might be one of the places to be seen in Dallas, but it’s the food that reign* supreme here. An order or two of Ziziki bread (homemade pita bread broiled with two cheeses and herbs) teams wel with any of the carefully crafted salads. Lamb and shrimp star here (the lamb souvlaki, skewered lamb ready to be popped into homemade pita bread, makes a can’t-be-beat sandwich), and the homemade Italian cream cake ends meals on a sweet note. The wines, chosen from all over the globe, demonstrate the owners’ never-ending quest foi the best. You’ll want to visit the new coffee bar/take-ou1 shop for some of your Ziziki favorites (like their mouthwatering sauces). 4514 Travis St., Ste. 122. 521-2233. Moderate to expensive.
Home Cooking
Barbec’s. 8949 Garland Rd., 321-5597. Inexpensive.
Celebration. 4503 W. Lovers Ln., 351-5681. Inexpensive.
Mecca. 10422 Harry Hines Blvd., 352-0051. Inexpensive.
D REVISITS Poor Richard’s Cafe. Our last lunch here taught us a lesson-stick to breakfast at Poor Richard’s. Almost everything was disappointing, from the side salad that was unceremoniously served on the same plate as a Texas burger, to the waitress who was more interested in cleaning the wait station and cashing out her tips than taking care of her remaining customers. Coffee-usually brisk and steaming hot at breakfast-tasted bitter and grew cold after wafting at least five minutes for cream. The chicken-fried steak was good with the same peppery cream gravy that tops many excellent breakfast entrees, and the vegetables were a bit bland, but enjoyable. After we were brought the wrong kind of muffins-twice-the redeemer was dessert: a wonderful coconut cream pie with light meringue piled high atop a cooling layer of sweet coconut cream and a fine crust. Next time we’ll come in the morning, when the waitresses and chefs have a fresh start. 2442 Ave. K at Park Boulevard, Piano. 423-1524. Inexpensive.
Indian
Bombay Cricket Club. Though we’re easily fooled about the nuances of cricket (the game), the food here is definitely cricket with us, especially the incendiary chicken ven-daloo. the soothing saag paneer (chunks of homemade cheese in creamed spinach) and the curry-kissed aloo ben-gan, which combines eggplant, potatoes, onions and tomatoes. Having heard raves about the leg of lamb from the tandoor, we’re saving it for the next round, or inning, or chukker. or whatever they call it. 2508 Maple Ave.. 871-1333. Inexpensive to moderate.
D REVISITS India Palace. Delicate spices imbue truly fine Indian cuisine with attributes similar to a fine perfurne–too much creates an assault on the senses: too little, and there’s no magic. Much to the delight of North Dallas diners, India Palace has maintained that proper balance for nearly a decade, and shows no signs of slowing down. Complimentary, crispy papad (lentil wafers) make a fine segue to appetizers like fried vegetable pakora or fragrant mulligatawny soup, a hearty broth of lentils, rice and chicken. Entrées include moist, flavorful and low-fat Tandoori chicken, exceptionally silky paneer masala (tofu in a creamy tomato sauce) and our perennial fave, saag paneer (spinach and tofu). Crank up the heat with vindaloo or curry, with your choice of beef, chicken or lamb. Whatever you do, don’t miss the killer breads: onion kulcha. nan or roti, served straight from the tandoor. hot as lava. 12817 Preston Rd., Ste. 105, 392-0190. Inexpensive to moderate.
Italian
Alfonso’s. 718 N. Buckner Blvd. Ste. 222, 327-7777. Inexpensive to moderate.
The Adriatic. The Italian food here is complemented by the high caliber of the service and the tranquility of the setting, which includes live (and blissfully quiet) piano music. Start a meal with the excellent steamed clams in garlic broth or the Caesar salad-fresh, but needed more of the excellent croutons and shredded cheese. The rack of lamb, perfectly cooked, was a treat with heaping sides of zucchini and carrots and the garlic-laden scalloped potatoes. The pepper steak special is a tender, tasty meat-feast sided by a nicely braised cabbage dish that’s not often served today. Expect generous portions here and peruse the wine list, which impresses with its variety and reasonable prices. Bargains abound on the lunch menu, which features everything from a fruit and cheese platter to crab and cannelloni. The restaurant also has a regal, yet welcoming bar. This may just be the neighborhood spot we all seek for a romantic dinner or to unwind from the workday. 19009 Preston Rd., 248-2500. Moderate.
Alessio’s. 4117 Lomo Alto Dr.. 521-3585. Moderate,
Angelo’s Italian Grill, Affable service, reasonable prices ($7.95-$12.95) and generous portions mean we’ll be back. 6341 La Vista Dr., 823-5566. Inexpensive.
Campisi’s Egyptian. 55610 E. Mockingbird Ln., 827-0355. Inexpensive.
Cappellini’s. 3820 Belt Line Rd., Addison. 488-9494. Moderate.
Ciao Bella. 3232 McKinney Ave.. 871-2074. Inexpensive to moderate.
Covino’s. Buried deep inside a series of strip malls, Covino’s Pasta and Pizza draws raves from customers for its New York-style pizza-a thin, crisp dough lightly topped with whole (not skim) mozzarella and just a whisper of tomato sauce. That same dough makes the richly stuffed cal-zones especially good, and stars again in an appetizer stuffed with meat, cheese and spinach. Pastas, especially the hearty lasagne and tortellini with pesto. earn high marks due to their sprightly sauces. Meatball subs can’t be beat, but, like all sandwiches here, require a hearty appetite. Owner Joe Covino (a transplanted New Yorker) is usually on hand greeting the regulars in this tiny, unpretentious trattoria, while his wife Michèle is at home making her scrumptious cheesecakes for the restaurant. Bring the kids, bring the baseball team, bring a bottle of Chianti, but the prices are so low you won’t need to bring much money. 3265 Independence Pkwy., Piano. 519-0345. Inexpensive.
Rip’s Wine Bar And Trattoria. Artist J.J. Sanfilippo’s lower Greenville eatery features a rotating selection of works from Dallas artists as well as live jazz and blues on Fridays and Saturdays. The decor is post-industrial lHOP: exposed ductwork and rafters, truck-stop seating around Plexiglas-topped box tables displaying commissioned art. and battered booth benches. The sparse wine list doesn’t uphold the “wine bar” designation, but there’s a fun selection of beers. The food, however, is in need of culinary motivation: The bruschetta was heavy and zestless, the vegetable rice soup was packed with overcooked veggies, and the frutti di mare-with leathery shrimp on a bed of pasta-struggled in a deep puddle of white wine-lemon-garlic juice. The Platto di Carne Affumicato appetizer, a selection of smoked meats, had flavors that ranged from robust {the chicken and beef) to bland (the trout and pork tenderloin). Don’t get us wrong. This place is a must-see labor of love with service that pockets four stars. But while the atmosphere is campy tour-de-force, the food needs some forceful tuning. 1520 Greenville Ave.. 824-9944. Moderate.
Mi Piaci. The artful, minimalist decor, complete with soaring, twisted columns, makes for an upscale setting, but Mi Piaci’s food would taste great anywhere. You have to like a restaurant that bakes its own breads (including killer breadsticks), cures its own olives and grows its own herbs. Pasta, which you can watch Mi Piaci’s chefs roll, shape and cook, never fails to please, especially the earthy fusilli with wild mushrooms. The menu always offers at least four types of made-to-order risotto, a classic Italian, labor-intensive, meltingly tender rice dish; along with Italian standards such as osso buco and veal scaloppine. For a knockout alternative, sample the mammoth, juicy, grilled pork chop, served with velvety sage-laced mashed potatoes, pungent oven-dried tomatoes and sweet roasted onions. Hefty portions of garlicky bruschetta start a meal in style, and the lemon tan in a pistachio crust ends it on a light note. 14854 Montfort Dr.. Addison. 9345424. Moderate.
MoMo’s Italian Specialties. This eatery plays like an Italian opera, from the soprano highs of the al dente homemade pastas to the baritone lows of its strip-mall decor. The pizzas (the menu lists two dozen mouthwatering versions) achieve perfection, with crusts that retain their crispness, topped with the freshest brush of tomato sauce and the softest puddles of mozzarella. The stuffed pastas, like lasagne, rotolo verde and spinach-filled ravioli, satisfy the heartiest appetites, and a pungent parsley pesto enlivens the complimentary focaccia. So far, excursions onto the secondi piatti (second course) list haven’t met the expectations created by what precedes it. There’s no wine list, so bring your own Chianti. Be sure to end your meal with a slice of the chocolate mousse cake MoMo’s wife makes, or one of the many ice cream selections, each crowned with homemade whipped cream. 9191 Forest Ln., 234-6800. Inexpensive to moderate.
Nicola’s. From its tony Tuscan al fresco decor to the woody perfume of grilled meats. Nicola’s exudes a breezy confidence beyond typical mall restaurants. But the more ambitious menu selections fall snort of their lofty aspirations. On one visit, crackling-hot, delicious pizzas, generous salads and service were all exemplary. On another, our pasta carbonara looked rewarmed, the chicken focaccia sandwich oozed a gooey, plastery cheese, and service was perfunctory. So. roll the dice. For a light meal, glass of wine and view of Dallas shoppers at their trendy best, the place is hard to beat-just don’t set your culinary expectations too high. The Galleria. third floor. 13350 Dallas Pkwy., 788-1177. Inexpensive to moderate.
Pomodoro. Cedar Springs Boulevard is a far cry from the rolling Tuscan hillside evoked by Pomodoro’s alfresco seating, but even after a decade, the place still exudes its own trendy, noisy charm. Besides, where else could you toast the downtown YMCA joggers tromping past during lunch? Plenty of indoor seating in the tiled dining room, too, but if you’re a non-smoker, ask to sit far, far away from the smoking section. Gently melted buffalo mozzarella wrapped in grilled rugola makes for a nice start: so does the carpac-cio with capers and lemon. Polio Pizzaiola is tender and tasty, if a mite salty; clever pasta dishes like fettuccine with lobster or pappardelle with sausage are fun and feisty, but could be more substantial for the price. Speaking of which, is it just us, or do the specials seem high? Service is uniformly excellent-Pomodoro still bends over backwards to please, and it shows. 2520 Cedar Springs Rd., 871-1924. Moderate.
Ruggerl’s. Despite the regal setting of Ruggeri’s new Addison location, the restaurant projects a relaxed image, one that makes you want to linger over coffee and the excellent homemade desserts and listen to the live music Thursday through Saturday nights. A double hit of garlic makes a great way to begin a meal here, with an order of steamed clams in garlicky herbed broth and a basket of cheesy slices of toasted garlic bread. If you order a daily special of baked salmon filet with superb dill sauce, be prepared to become a regular. The sautéed veal and shrimp combination also got high marks, and customers praise both the renowned 16-ounce veal chop and the crab-stuffed jumbo shrimp. Lasagne, a hefty 3-inch high slab oozing with cheese and a sausage/meat mixture, sits proudly on a plate half filled with sprightly tomato sauce, half with a thin Bechamel sauce. Service strikes a fine-tuned note with wine-sawy servers on one memorable visit. 5348 Belt Line Rd., 726-9555. Moderate.
Terilli’s. 2815 Greenville Ave.. 827-3993. Moderate.
Tramontana. Marvelous starters include the marinated goat cheese, peppered and nestled on top of herbed greens. Those same greens shone in a mesclun salad strewn with chunks of walnuts and tart goat cheese. We also savored the soups-deep-flavored French onion was topped with fine Gruyère cheese and the haricots vert have a strong, fresh presence in the creamed green bean potage. Entrees exceeded our expectations. Pan-seared salmon was transcendent, bathed in a tart caper sauce and served with grilled polenta and steamed spinach. Other winning ’ entrees were the ravioli stuffed with spinach and mushrooms and the super-plump filet mignon sauced with Cabernet, served with a side of crunchy green beans and rosemary potatoes. The desserts are made in-house, but the bread is from Massimo’s. Preston Center’s got itself a winner. 8220B Westchester Dr., 3684188. Inexpensive to moderate.
Japanese
Hana. We give Hana high marks for authenticity, from the sushi bar to the tatami room to the stacks of Japanese newspapers and magazines available for their customers’ perusal. The Sashimi’s predictably good, especially the flavor-packed salmon, although the sushi list should explain just what things like “Texas roll” consist of for those of us who don’t know. Both the lunch and dinner menus offer bento boxes, Japan’s version of a combination platter, and these taste impeccably fresh. The crisp tempura shrimp and vegetables have only recently emerged from their hot oil bath; the chicken or beef in teriyaki sauce are minutes off the grill. Extra care has even been given to the salads, with slices of real Japanese cucumbers and flecks of grated ginger in the dressing. 14865 Inwood Rd., 991-8322. Moderate.
D REVISITS Nakamoto. Service tends to range from the sublime to the abrupt al this Stylish, roomy North Piano institution, but cuisine remains uniformly excellent. Japanese food neophytes can be comfortable with traditional, lightly fried tempura offerings or “bento” box lunches-samplings of tender beef or chicken teriyaki. sautéed salmon batayaki or kara age (delicate fried chicken) and California rolls. More adventuresome diners will be rewarded by appetizers of karariage (flounder wrapped in seaweed then lightly fried) or succulent, salty soft-shell crab. Sushi and sashimi are all perfectly sliced and presented with proper panache: Experiment with dragon rolls, unagi (eel) hand rolls, or ask the sushi master to fix something fun. 3309 N. Central Expwy. at Parker Road, Piano. 881-0328. Moderate.
Sushi at the Stoneleigh. Every bite we sampled was delectable, from the basic raw tuna, yellowtail and salmon cuts to a more exotic spider roll of crunchy-cooked, soft-shell crab wrapped in seaweed and rice. Chefs-special baked mussels were divine, warmly blanketed in the half-shell by a lush blend of mayonnaise and golden smelt eggs. The salmon roe on seaweed-wrapped rice burst voluptuously on the tongue. Don’t forget appetizers: The miso soup, with hidden cubes of silken tofu and gently pickled emerald seaweed, was delightful. 2927 Maple Ave.. 871-7111. Inexpensive to moderate.
Kosher
Deco’s By Arthur. Enjoy complimentary gartic-laden pizza crusts while browsing the eclectic menu, ranging from falafel to jambalaya to grilled salmon-reflective of Deco’s origins as a successful catering business. Try a daily special-baked corvina on curry rice with roasted-pepper sauce was as good a dish as you’d find at any expense-account palace, and half the price. La Jolla salad sprinkles fresh greens with sun-dried apricots, cranberries, almonds and diced apples in an oil-free raspberry vinaigrette. “Signature” pizzas, named after movie stars, feature thick, toasty crusts, fresh, fresh, fresh ingredients like caramelized onions, roasted, smoked peppers, portobello mushrooms, spinach…aah! Friendly, fast service, too. Two caveats-Deco’s is vegetarian (except for fish}, so don’t expect burgers or chicken, and second, the staff keeps a spotless kosher kitchen (cool) and hours (closed on Friday night and all day Saturday). 1118 Preston Forest Square, 788-2808. Inexpensive.
Mediterranean
Adelmo’s. Our last dinner at Adelmo’s might have been prepared in two separate restaurants, course by course. A starter of lobster ravioli was a lively, lovely affair, the tender pasta pillows plump with toothsome filling in a spicy vodka tomato sauce. Salmon tar tare was a soupy mess- innocent snippets of fresh, raw pink lost in a near-liquid amalgam sparsely studded with onion and too many capers. The spécialité de la maison grilled veal chop was perfect as always, an awesome cut splendidly browned outside, juicy and luscious inside, large enough for two. A day’s special grilled trout was innocence betrayed again, by an unnecessary assault of strong accent elements-dried cherry tomatoes, capers, pickled artichoke hearts and mushrooms, all laid on In a florid over-treatment that overwhelmed the delicate, sweet trout meat’s flavor. 4537 Cole Ave., 559-0325. Moderate to expensive.
Cafe Istanbul. 5450 W. Lovers Ln., Ste. 222, 902-0919. Inexpensive to moderate.
Calluaud’s The Bistro. No longer must one’s choice be narrowed to a single starter, one entrée and dessert to make up a meal. The option’s still on the menu , but so is the opportunity to sample hot and cold teasers of every addictive sort, from soups to salads, from a listing of more than 30. plus daily specials. Start, say, with gazpacho-a thick, smooth, piquant version-or a small Caesar salad traditionally dressed and tossed with croutons and parmesan. Proceed to cigars of fried goat cheese spiked with garlic, paprika and cilantro; ravioli of wild mushrooms, meaty marvels bathed in herb and sherry sauce; garlic shrimp, flirty curls vivaciously seasoned with red chili pepper. Along the way. succumb to fresh foie gras sautéed with raisins and port sauce, or lobster soufflé, meltingly airy and splendidly sauced. Our only disappointment of the new dishes was the steak tar tare that was so strongly endowed with horseradish and capers, the beef flavor struggled to come through. 5405 W. Lovers Lane, 352-1997. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mediterranee. Chef David Holben’s exquisite culinary artistry, a casually elegant decor and efficient, non-stuffy service combine to create a sublimely magical bistro in Far North Dallas. Of particular interest: Mediterraneo’s $9.95 luncheon menu includes appetizer and entrée. 18111 Preston Rd. at Frankford, Ste. 120, 447-0066. Moderate to expensive.
Sambuca. At the gorgeous Addison location, deep, inviting booths with animal prints, a high-tech bar area and a forest-scene mural all create a wild atmosphere that is good for people-watching and enjoying live jazz. Compared to this noise and color. Sambuca’s menu seems almost restrained- To start off a meal, the spinach salad with a sun-dried cherry vinaigrette and the appetizer pizzas get high marks. For the main course, the specials seem more assertively flavored than the regular menu items. For dessert, dive into the rich Romana Sambuca cake, which is drenched with anise-flavored liqueur. 15207 Addison Rd., Addison, 385-8455. Moderate.
Mexican
Cantina Laredo. 8121 Walnut Hill Ln., 987-9192. Inexpensive.
Casa Jose. The best Tex-Mex cafe in Arlington offers all the regular Tex-Mex dishes, but specializes in soft flour tortilla tacos.Their thick, slightly chewy, warm handmade flour tortillas offer a tasty base from which to build a taco. More than two dozen filling combinations are offered, ranging from came guisada to bacon-potato-and-egg to lengua (the last only offered on weekends). Another plus: Casa Jose offers breakfast dishes all day, so you can get your migas. huevos rancheros and machacado anytime. Casa Jose isn’t good enough to merit a drive from Dallas or Fort Worth (you’d pass as good or better Tex-Mex on the way), but if you’re in the area, try it. 2030 3- Cooper, Arlington, 817-265-5423. Inexpensive.
Casa Navarro. This wonderful descendant of downtown’s late, lamented El Taxco offers classic Tex-Mex in true hole-in-the-wall style. Complimentary borracho bean soup, fresh chips, kicky salsa and easy, relaxed service-it’s all setup for huge, steaming portions that’ll ruin tomorrow’s cholesterol test, but what a way to go. Hot. buttery enchiladas, down-home tamales and frijoles all have that ineffable tang only homemade can deliver. Fluffy rice and perfect tacos- all at luncheon-special prices-make this place a godsend for North Dallas types hankering for a Mex-fix. Can’t wait? They serve breakfast, too. 11742 Marsh Ln., in the Park Forest Shopping Center. 357-0141. Inexpensive.
Casa Rosa. Traditional Mexican dishes are offered, but so are dishes that put a California-type spin on classic Mexican by adding things like goat cheese, wild mushrooms and mesquite-grilled red snapper. 165 Inwood Village. 350-5227. Inexpensive.
Cenaduria Mexicana. This restaurant’s goal is to offer authentic homemade Mexican-not Tex-Mex-food. It achieves this through such offerings as the barbacoa, a Mexican pot roast, that is served on the weekdays only. You get a generous plate of fork-tender beef mixed with onions, chiles and tomatoes. With the basket of tortillas, it’s a roll-your-own feast. The side of beans gets high marks for the smoky flavor and a hint of what we suspect is beer in the juices. Unfortunately, bland is prevalent in some dishes here. The quesadillas could be fed to a baby with their tasteless white cheese and tortillas-they need some jalapenos, chopped onions, anything to add some spice. The soupy salsa served with chips before the meal can be tongue-tingling one day and bland the next. Chicken gordi-tas, a better choice, still need to be doused with salsa. Breakfast is also served until noon each day with nothing costing more than $4.95. 2013 Greenville Ave., 827-1494. Inexpensive.
Chuy’s. 4544 McKinney Ave.. 559-2489. Inexpensive to moderate.
Dos Charros. This is top-quality food for people who break into a sweat at the sight of a habanero chile, or those who don’t automatically reach for the Tabasco when they order a Bloody Mary or guacamole. Start with a cup of tortilla soup, jam packed with vegetables and cheese, and a mar-garita while studying the extensive menu, with plenty of seafood choices and healthful options added to the list of traditional favorites. The quality comes through even in the simplest freshly made tacos and the comforting cheese-filled spinach quesadillas. Nacho lovers will appreciate the five varieties offered here, each available in full or half orders. 108 University Vidage Shopping Center, 783-7671. Inexpensive.
Escondido’s. This place has been serving up reliable, hearty grub to Dallasites for years-and the parsing-lot mix of BMWs, pickups and rusty heaps attests to its wide appeal. Escondido’s rickety surroundings exude genuine “dump’” appeal, which simply means that the food should be as good as the place is bad. And for the most part, it is. Fresh spicy salsa is offset by grocery store-tasting chips, but enchiladas, tamales and rice and beans all hit the spot, and tacos are genuine street-vendor style, deep-fried and juicy. Service, however, was lacking speed and thoughtful-ness. marring an otherwise fine fix of better-than-average Tex-Mex. 2210 Butler. 634-2056. Inexpensive.
Flying Burro. Bringing his own style of New Mexico-Mex to Dallas, owner Scott Cain has a neat sense of the cuisine’s essential basics. To Texas tongues, the most alien dish on the menu will probably be Winnie’s Killer Queso, a dark, spicy, burn-the-baby mélange of peppers. The fried jalapenos-uncommonly crisp and pickled, are filled with vinegary chicken and cheese, all hot as hell. The Burro’s sauces, in red or green, are gentler on the tongue and add the right spice to the chicken and New Mexican enchiladas. Be wary, however, of the posole. which had been overcooked and oversalted when we visited. The pounded chicken breast also had been baked too long. 2831 Greenville Ave.. 827-2112. Inexpensive.
Javier’s Gourmet Mexicano. Start by dipping chips into the warm, piquant green salsa, wash them down with handmade margaritas. then opt for tart, fresh ceviche while you ponder: Barra de Navidad. enormous fresh shrimp sautéed in diablo sauce (coffee, orange juice, tomato), or delicate Snapper Mojo de Ajo in garlic and lime, or mouthwatering Filete con Champinones (steak with mushrooms and brandy)? Decisions, decisions. 4912 Cole Ave., 521-4211. Moderate.
La Calle Doce. Chile relleno de mariscos was wisely baked rather then fried, so as not to obscure the more delicate fire flavoring the shrimp, scallop and octopus that filled the poblano. The sea of warm, smooth queso sauce surrounding the poblano also added its flavor to the side of freshly cooked rice, with pieces of peas and carrots and a plump, ripe slice of avocado on top. Those who don’t like seafood will appreciate the more traditional Mexican offerings, such as spinach enchiladas carefully covered with green sauce. The spinach inside the tortillas could have used more seasoning, but perhaps that was to compensate for the burn of the green sauce and the bite of the lime. Speakingofburn, La Calle Doce’s long-celebrated hot sauce remains a winner, with an almost stop-action sequence of flavors coming to life in your mouth ending with the heat that melds them all together. 415 W. 12th St., 941-4304. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mario’s Chiquita. This Travis Walk restaurant, while offering upscale Mexico-City-style fare, also has some of the best basic combination Tex-Mex dinners in town. Satisfy your common-man yearnings with one of the plates named for women like Patricia, Lupita and Virginia. All the dishes are opulently generous and graced with little extra touches. The slivered salad atop a puffy taco, for example, comes dashed with a sparkle of mild vinaigrette that perfectly complements the meat filling. A beef enchilada wrapped in a whisper-thin corn tortilla was bathed in a ranchero sauce of unsurpassing smoothness. And the chicken enchilada, a wealth of white meat, is hidden under the best sour cream sauce that will ever cross your lips. Even the rice is nicer than most, broth-scented and flavorful. 4514 Travis. Ste. 105,521-0721. Inexpensive to moderate.
Martin’s Cocina. The kitchen here does magic things with seafood (shrimp especially) and offers a listing of entrees that weigh in at less than 1,000 calories each, including the four chiles rellenos. But there’s no skimping here-the most basic combination plate starts with a lettuce-topped chalupa, its toasty tortilla thickly spread with guacamole. The platter that follows holds a massive enchilada, a queso-bathed cheese taco and an overstuffed meat taco as greaseless as that crunchy marvel gets. Equally wonderful rice and beans can be ordered as side dishes. The dynamite pico de gallo is serrano-spiked. 7726 Ferguson Rd., 319-8834. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mattito’s. Chicken quesadillas, listed as an appetizer. Qualify as a full meal, and are much tastier than the grilled vegetable nachos (broccoli on a nacho?). Go for the spinach enchiladas with their zippy green sauce, and don’t miss the chile rellenos, topped with the usual sauce, cheese and sour cream, but also with chopped pecans for crunch and raisins for sweetness. The fajitas and tacos are standard fare; save your calories for the homemade flan and sopaip-illas instead. Mattito’s bar packs a lively crowd, and lunch bargains abound, with specials ranging from $4.95 to $6.95, including a foot-long enchilada with beans and rice and two versions of chicken-fried steak. 4311 Oak Lawn Ave., 526-8181. Inexpensive.
Man’s Rancho Martinez. We’ve hopscotched across Matt’s menu for years, trying the seafood platter (shrimp, frog legs, catfish), the veggie fajitas (a nice culinary oxymoron), the “old-fashioned” chalupas and more, but we’re always drawn back to the trademark chile rellenos. Get them topped with ranchero or green sauce; either marries nicely with Monterey jack cheese, sour cream, raisins and pecans. The only down notes: The tortilla soup is curiously zingless, and the “Cowboy drunk” beans that accompany many dishes are. while fat-free, almost taste-free as well. 6312 La Vista Dr., 823-5517. inexpensive.
Mia’s. For 14 years, this venerable institution has dished up definitive Tex-Mex food to addicts who stand in line on Tuesdays, when owner Ana Enriquez satisfies their lust for her incomparable chiles rellenos. Other days, they make do with a menu of house specialities, combo plates and sides that read like standard Tex-Mex on paper, but on the palate translate into transcendent fare. Try the bean soup, a truly noble amalgam of pintos with minced chiles, bacon, onion and cilantro accents, miles richer in flavor than prissy upscale black-bean concoctions. Fork Into a cheese enchilada crowned with honest beefy chili, or a soft cheese taco’s tenderly molten heart. Ladle the bracing house salsa onto a bean spread chalupa or a beef-filled taco, and savor the texture contrasts of greaseless tortilla shells and fine-ribboned lettuce. Service is cheerful; the setting is no-frills comfortable. One note: The restaurant serves only beer and wine. 4322 Lemmon Ave., 526-1020. Inexpensive.
Monica’s Aca Y Alla. 2914 Main St., 748-7140. Moderate.
Piano Tortilla Factory & Cafe. Not much atmosphere, and no alcohol served, but this little authentic Mexican joint will have you eating to the belt-loosening stage. Your best game plan: Arrive after 11 a.m., when your meal will start with free, fresh corn-tasting chips, spicy salsa, guacamole. and pico de gallo. Buttery tasting chicken quesadillas, stewed pork-filled taquitos, and a split corn tortilla stuffed with inch-thick cubes of tender chicken team up nicely for a generous a la carte meal that would satisfy any linebacker, and would still leave enough from a 10-spot to pay for dessert and a drink. Combination plates, complete with rice and beans, average about $5. M3ke sure to take home a copy of the menu-this place does big take-out business, 1009 E. 18th St.. Piano, 423-6980. Inexpensive.
Rodolfo’s. Rodolfo’s menu offers 18 different combination plates, plus 18 other specialties and six breakfast options for a total that exceeds the number of chairs at this self-proclaimed “hole in the wall” in Oak Cliff. Start with the home-fried chips, huge half tortilla rounds served with a full-bodied salsa. Then try the Big Tex Mex dinner or the Number 0 (yes, they start numbering at zero). The Big Tex Mex offers a cheese enchilada, a tamale with chili sauce, a meat taco, a soft cheese taco, rice, beans and half of a praline for dessert. The taco and enchilada were both silky, the beans creamy and the tamale was a perfect marriage of nongreasy meat and a just-on-the-edge-of-crumbly shell. The star on the Number 0 plate is the Idaho enchiladas made of, yes, mashed potatoes, pleasantly spiced and available with a choice of seven different sauces. 2002 S. Edgefield, 942-1211. Inexpensive.
Tupinamba. Meals commence with tortilla chips and a zesty bowl of salsa-fiery one day, almost tolerable the next. Nachos are crisp with shredded chicken and cheese, and the shrimp cocktail combines fresh shellfish with a drinkable gazpacho soup/sauce. “Tupy” tacos, although deep-fried, are hard to stop eating. Two small disappointments-the sour cream enchiladas were bland and the fajita salad was topped with dry chicken and an uneventful vinaigrette dressing. Desserts are definitely worth ordering. 12270 Inwood Rd., 243-2355. Inexpensive.
Middle Eastern
All Baba. 1905 Greenville Ave., 823-8235. Inexpensive.
Natural Health
Dream Cafe. This Quadrangle eatery is the living embodiment of the notion that location, location, location determines success. Its pastoral setting seems particularly appropriate for the Dream Cafe’s menu of nightly pasta and chicken specials-on our visit, one with the tongue-twisting name of chicken with feta-calamata olive relish-salads and sandwiches. You can’t go wrong ordering corn cakes, with a hot peanut dipping sauce and grilled shrimp, or the vegetable enchiladas of spinach and wild mushrooms with ancho sauce and melted Jack cheese. However, a grilled chicken breast sandwich came on a regrettably dry sourdough bun. The Dream Cafe’s famed breakfast menu remains an intriguing cross-solid egg dishes to entice the power-breakfast crowd, and granola for those who want to start the day on a more spiritual, healthful note. The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh St.. 954-0486. Inexpensive.
Eureka! 4011 Villanova Dr.. 369-7767. Inexpensive.
Fresh ’N Lite. The name can be a little misleading-the menu does offer a lot of fat-free foods, but this place is out to please everyone, so the menu includes burgers, croissant-based sandwiches and even corn dogs. Most popular are the enormous bowls of salad in 13 varieties. The Caesar features perfectly grilled chicken, olives and onions, and makes a satisfying meal, although the accompanying pasty white rolls need improvement. Don’t forget to save room for a hot fruit cobbler. 6150 Frankford Rd., 713-3167. Inexpensive.
D REVISITS Nature Cafe. A new chef has breathed new life into this colorful cafe, once appreciated more for its delightfully huge vegetable sculptures than for its natural, healthful foods. The purest of souls will appreciate the nutritional analysts of the menu, the purified water, the filtered air and the amount of flavor packed into the good-for-you food. But the menu also includes choices like burgers for the “nutritionally ambivalent,” and these people will certainly want to ask for butter to perk up the dry house-made focaccia. The pizzas are generously topped and big enough to split, especially if you also split one of the many salads, like everyone’s favorite, the Oriental chicken salad. Natura serves up a zippy meatloaf/mashed potato plate that’sway better than Mom’s, at about a third of the calories. Accompany it with a glass of fresh-squeezed juice or throw caution to the wind and spend those calories you’ve saved on a glass of wine. 2909 McKinney Ave.. 855-5483. Inexpensive to moderate.
New American
Americana. Chef Russell Hodges still rules the roost, turning out his top-notch regional American food, but they’ve spiffed up the place and cozied the atmosphere. Black lacquer chairs, white tablecloths and soothing art now complement the distinctive cuisine, which includes a dazzling range of potatoes: balsamic, garlic mashed or garlic fried, truffled, waffle cut and more. Hodges clearly likes assertive flavors-his salmon carpaccio features fish that overwhelms the palate, but the accompanying curried deviled eggs strike the right note. The grilled chicken Caesar sandwich, a two-hand, two-napkin deal, takes the ubiquitous chicken Caesar salad to new highs, and the corn, shrimp and applewood-smoked bacon soup remains one of Dallas’ best creations. You can’t go wrong ending with the properly crusty crème brulée, beautifully presented on a plate painted with a lattice of raspberry and apricot sauces. 3005 Routh St., 871-2004. Moderate.
Antares. The Hyatt Regency’s sky-flung revolving restaurant, long marked by mediocre food that failed to live up to its soaring view, appears to be finding its wings at last. Huge, meaty, seared sea scallops, pearly-white within, were sparked with chile-peanut dressing; grilled beefsteak tomatoes and earthy shiitake mushroom caps wore dollops of melted queso fresco in a to-die-for roasted shallot vinaigrette. An entree of grilled tiger shrimp mounted toothsome guard on a peppery bed of lemon-spiked fettuccine in garlic butter. Sautéed salmon was less memorable only because its seasoning was too timid-the filet was fresh and perfectly cooked, but held little excitement on its bed of totally unseasoned rice; what flavor the plate afforded came from the grilled Granny Smith apple slices and applejack sauce that were both blander than expected (a seasonal thing, perhaps?). Desserts were one up-a tongue-tingling Key lime pie, really terrific-and one down-warm peach-walnut cobbler, made with canned peaches, for God’s sake, sans walnuts as far as we could tell, and far too sweet. And the view? How blasé do we have to be before seeing the city do a slow 360-degree pirouette below us fails to be enchanting? Valet parking, by the way, is complimentary via the maitre d’s stamp. Reunion Tower, 300 Reunion Blvd.. 651-1234. Expensive.
Anzu. The smoothly uncluttered decor is itself an inducement to relaxed pleasure, from granite-hued tabletops and intimate booth enclosures to the witty flock of bright-colored origami birds that flutter from the ceiling. Service supports the mood, too. with knowledgeable dish descriptions and friendly attention to small needs. Each dish on the menu is a compelling example of East-meets-West culinary compatibility. One entree, mustard-crusted rack of lamb-five baby riblets-on white beans with tomato and garlic, partnered with rosemary-scented potatoes, was classically American; another, sake-marinated black cod broiled to succulence and served on infant greens with grapefruit sections and Chinese black vinegar alongside ginger-snapped pickled beets, was as eloquently Asian. And a dessert of coconut sorbet with ripe, fresh berries, pineapple and kiwi on raspberry and mango sauces brought both worlds together in light, bright harmony. 4620 McKinney Ave., 526-7398. Moderate.
Beau Nash. 400 Crescent Ct., 871-3240. Moderate.
City Cafe. Basic California-style food comes graced with a Cajun touch here, a hint of the Southwest there. Seafood dishes make the best choices, whether a juicy grilled esco-lar or a scrumptious seared salmon salad. City Cafe also renders the classics well, like an herbed-sprinkled omelet or a club sandwich packed with turkey, tomatoes and bacon fighting for attention. The menu changes every two weeks to take advantage of the best that local markets offer, but a few customer favorites, like the succulent tomato soup, appear regularly. Save room for homemade dessert. Also make sure to check out the award-winning wine list and the nice choice of after-dinner drinks. 5757 W. Lovers Ln., 351-2233. Moderate.
Dakota’s. Start with an appetizer sampler or warm homemade breads and the addictive, fried, cayenne-spiked onion shreds as you peruse the menu, which includes plenty of items marked as -lighter fare.” Choices from the wood-burning grill never disappoint, but a recent daily special was especially intriguing-colorfully striped, smoked mozzarella ravioli showered with sweet crab and sautéed bell peppers with a light garlicky sauce to tie all the elements together. Bargain-seekers will love the $15.95. three-course “twilight menu” offered daily, with choices that might include a first course of venison sausage que-sadillas followed by roasted salmon and chocolate pecan pie. 600 N. Akard St., 740-4001. Moderate.
Huntington’s. Good news-this is one of the best places in Dallas for a reasonably priced, reliably good meal. Lobster bisque smoothly and richly delivers the very essence of lobster, best enjoyed as you wolf down the lightly crusty rolls slathered with garlic-studded whipped butter. Don’t miss the meaty crab cakes (offered as an appetizer or entrée), and end your meal with a knockout of a crusty crème brulée. Watch out for the tame salad dressings, though. Westin Galleria, 13440 Dallas Pkwy.. 851-2882. Moderate to expensive.
Landmark Restaurant. A day’s-special starter, on our visit, topped a crisp-edged potato pancake with a single huge seared sea scallop and zipped the pairing with caviar-caper rémoulade. Another special sandwiched a succulent grilled shiitake mushroom between Roma tomato halves, crumb-coated and fried, on baby greens dressed with basil-balsamic vinaigrette. Both were luscious, as was a hauntingly smoky tomato soupdolloped with pale green basil cream- a made-in-heaven marriage of flavors and hues adorned by a flash-fried basil leaf. An entree of charred rare ahi tuna was stellar stuff indeed, the thick, meaty cut crisp-seared on the outside, its heart rosy-dark and tender; its accompanying warm salad Nicoise was studded with pressed kalamata olives that provided spirited accent to the gentle smoothness of the dressing, a vintage balsamic vinegar and saffron aioli. 3015 Oak Lawn Ave., 521-5151. Moderate to expensive.
Laurels. As good as the food is, as sweeping the view, as welcoming the decor, what we’re still talking about is the faultless service at Laurels. Live piano music, good bread and nice wines by the glass start meals off well. It’s impossible to resist ordering Laurels’ renowned appetizer, an enchilada packed with lobster and shrimp. The dish’s chile-lime cream melds with the tomatillo sauce for an unbeatable combination. The serrano chile pepper sauce on another appetizer, a health-conscious grilled scallop, also made us reach for the bread to sop up every drop. Filet mignon and rack of lab are regally presented, each with inventive sidekicks (dive into those mashed potatoes jazzed up with creamed roasted corn). Souffles head the dessert list, but offer more fluff than taste. Sheraton Park Central, 12720 Merit Dr.. 385-3000. Expensive.
The Mansion on Turtle Creek. The near-brashness that has at times marked chef Dean Fearing’s cuisine as more showy than souI-satisfying has been polished into a sophistication and balance that justify the international recognition he has received. Take two starters: A mammoth orange-caramelized sea scallop partnered divine flash-seared foie gras on a duck confit crêpe with blackened turnip slices and gingered currant sauce; and risotto perfumed with Oregon truffles offered gentle counterpoint to pesto-glazed shrimp with tomato essence and grilled zucchini salad. A request to split an entrée was honored without a murmur of condescension, and the ranch-reared antelope proved adequate for two, a substantial cut, rare and honey-glazed on a hearty posole stew gilded with roast yellow tomato, punctuated with barbecued venison fajitas. A less costly tasting menu ($65 complete) was as outstanding-bay scallops on deep-flavored fennel puree with basil-creamed noodles: a curl of warm lobster and shrimp fritters with celery root in a salad dressed with truffle-tomato vinaigrette: pan-fried golden trout so succulent its layers slipped apart like satin, with parsley potatoes, black trumpet mushrooms, a crunchy bouquet of minced parsnips, young asparagus and green beans completing the plate. Hang the cost. Go there. Do that. And don’t be dismayed if you mention wine by the glass and the sommelier drops you like a stone-it’s just his way. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd.. 559-2100. Expensive.
Maple Avenue Cafe. This restaurant is a particularly happy instance of urban evolution-the circa-1905 mansion has been revived, polished and given new life. Furnishings, service and culinary style are in sync with the transformation-the food is regionally keyed to home cooking, stylishly updated but basically familiar. Shrimp cocktail is on the menu alongside ceviche. Good crusty rolls accompany the soup of the day, a deep-flavored cream of mushroom on our visit. Oven-roasted natural chicken. Madeira-sauced, comes with garlic mashed potatoes; sauteed sea bass, petal-tender and moist, is served on ribbons of lemon-buttered fettucine. A peanut butter tart carries a rich chocolate surprise; almond cheesecake is densely textured and satisfying. The house by-the-glass Mondavi wines-cabernet, chardonnay. or zinfandel-are surprisingly modest in price as, indeed, is the food: Entrees start under $10, and the most expensive (two pounds of steamed lobster) is less than $20. 2616 Maple Ave., 871-1181. Moderate.
Nana Grill. In the Wyndham Anatole Hotel tower, 2201 StemmonsFwy., 761-7479. Expensive.
Natchez. Southern hospitality is warmly dispensed here, in surroundings that suggest a large home’s dining room. The food’s markedly Southern, loo-even tortilla soup, that Southwestern cliché, was gumbo-thick, dusky and decidedly piquant. The small menu’s potato cakes, delicately crisp-skinned, were tapped in a sweet honey-mustard sauce; the king cake, a tender patty of chopped scallops, crawfish, shrimp and salmon, came on a tangy tartar sauce, garnished with cilantro-kissed shopped tomato. Stuffed chicken breast was two half-breasts filled with crawfish and white cheese, bound together for cooking, then bedded on subtle cilantro pesto cream. Corn-crusted catfish, a huge filet, emitted a to-die-for fragrance and tasted as good with its unexpected beurre blanc sauce. But the big surprise of our visit was an outstanding crème brulée, its sugar-shell top still warm and crackling beneath the spoon. It blew us away 2810 N.Henderson Ave., 821-4552. Inexpensive to moderate.
D REVISITS The Riviera. Well, really, just once, couldn’t this restaurant fall short of expectations? Apparently not. As always, owner-host Franco Bertolasi’s greeting is warmly effusive, the seating conferred as deferentially as if you were being knighted. As for food and service on our last visit, we knew the moment an airy avocado cream hors d’ouevre passed our lips that we were doomed, once again, to a near-flawless (and therefore difficult to describe without sounding, well, gushy) dining experience. Each dish seemed to outdo another-a starter of seared foie gras was pure poetry in Madeira wine sauce on leek risotto; chilled shrimp bisque was even better, its scented depths punctuated with avocado dice, its accompanying sunflower crackers crisp little rounds of nutty crunch. Yellow-fin tuna, marinated and grilled with apple-smoked bacon, hardly needed its accompaniment of lobster-caviar rémoulade: a pan-seared cut of salmon on fennel-seasoned white beans was crowned with a waffle of crisp phyllo layers-an inspired touch of wit. We did find one fault here: The beans, al dente a la the current mode, were rather more so than we’d have preferred and-therefore, perhaps-had absorbed enough of the plate’s underlying horseradish butter sauce to obscure their own flavor. Still, the adventurous dish was one we’d happily order again. Food credits here mostly belong to Chef de Cuisine Michael Weinstein, one assumes, with input from David Holben, now executive chef at sibling restaurants Méditerranée and Toscana as well as the Riviera. And service? Let’s simply say a tip commensurate to the quality of attention one receives here would be too astronomical to contemplate. 7709 Inwood Rd., 351-0094. Expensive.
Seventeen Seventeen. At the Dallas Museum of Art’s new restaurant, the decor is simply lovely, but even more breathtaking is the food. On a brunch visit, the tomato-Pernod broth was a muted masterpiece. A small comino-rubbed, baby lambT-bone on musky black-chile mole sauce was splendid and a corn pudding tamale, creamy in its little shuck canoe, was glorified with shredded red and blue tortillas, purple and white cabbage and bell peppers of every hue. On the breakfast side, a honey-granola waffle wore a toss of pecans beside a caramelized oatmeal-crusted fried banana on vanilla bean syrup, and smoky-flavored wild boar sausage partnered an omelet stuffed with charred bell pepper confetti and white Cheddar cheese. For lunch, the toasted ravioli triangles, although a trifle tough, were nicely stuffed with corn and goat cheese and served with golden coins of candied kumquat under white chayote squash. The blue crab cakes were partnered with a crunchy salad of field-fresh greens and papery rice noodles. The most memorable desserts were a pink-and-white layered mousse cake heaped with fresh raspberries and a trio of house brulées-mango-lime, raspberry-chocolate, orange with vanilla cream. 1717 N. Harwood St., 922-1260. Moderate to expensive.
Yellow. The potent little pots of garlic butter make it easy to polish off the crusty bread as you admire the crisp, clean decor-a white palette accented with clear, bright blue and, of course, yellow. You’ll find almost as many appetizers as entrees, and here, finally, is a restaurant that does both equally well. The best appetizer ranks among the best in town-a crab cake packed with Dungeness crab, lightly crusted, perched on a tantalizing coriander sauce. Among the lunch choices is a winner of a grilled salmon club sandwich, although it’s impossible to eat without a knife and fork. The dinner menu includes tasty options, like duckling in blackberry sauce, for those who don’t like seafood, but make sure that someone at your table orders the aptly named pyramid of swordfish, 2719 McKinney Ave.. 871-1772. Moderate.
Seafood
Cafe Pacific. Magical food: a starter of lime-seasoned ceviche was as tony as the clientele, an extravagance of lobster and shrimp chunks with bay scallops, ail bedded on jicama matchsticks and deep-green ribbons of spinach. A day’s special entrée starring Gulf red snapper was even prettier, the fish delicately moist inside a crisp corn-tortilla crust atop a fine, crunchy salsa balancing tart tomatillo and sweet diced pineapple. The too-sweet nubbly crust on a warm apple crisp dessert overwhelmed its firm, fresh fruit filling, but the vanilla bean ice cream that crowned the whole affair helped cut the sweetness, as did bracing espresso. 24 Highland Park Village. Preston Road and Mockingbird Lane, 526-1170. Moderate to expensive.
Daddy Jack’s. 1916 Greenville Ave., 826-4910. Moderate.
Eighteen-O-One. 1801 N. Griffin St.. 720-2224. Inexpensive.
Joe’s Crab Shack. 3855 Belt Une Rd., Addison. 247-1010. Inexpensive to moderate.
Lefty’s. Although the menu is small, Lefty’s features everything you’d expect a good lobster house to have, including beef for those who don’t like seafood. Soups come in thick, white mugs; a disk of a cracker covers the top to keep the steam in. Choose the clam chowder and steer away from the metal lie-tasting lobster bisque. Of the appetizers, the smoked salmon with bagel chips or the steamed clams would make a nice meal. So would the crisp house salad, paired with a crab cake and its good dilled tartar sauce. Baked shrimp, stuffed with baby shrimp, crab and cracker crumbs, are served perched m a wickedly good sauce. The service gets mixed marks, but the wine list is promising. One false note: The sauce on a daily special of seafood diablo lacked spiciness, though the plate was heaped with clams, lobster, mussels and shrimp. One big bargain-the one-pound lobster with baked potato and corn for $10.95. 4021 Belt Line Rd., Addison. 774-9518. Moderate.
Mainstream Fish House. Preston Forest Shopping Center, 11661 Preston Rd., Ste. 153, 739-3474. Moderate.
Newport’s. 703 McKinney Ave.. 954-0220. Moderate.
S&D Oyster Company. 2701 McKinney Ave.. 880-0111. Moderate.
Sea Grill. Asian accents are subtly woven into this seafood-intense menu, where every bite surprises-a touch of lemon grass in the iced tea. a splash of sake enlivening a black bean sauce. Don’t even bother with the menu if a lobster sandwich is one of the daily specials; just order it quickly before they run out. Hunks of sweet lobster meat tossed with a lemon/Dijon mayo make this open-faced sandwich a winner, and it’s served not only with fries, caraway seed-flecked slaw and slices of mango, but also with the good house salad. The setting may be strip mall-pedestrian, but the food, right down to the homemade desserts, transcends it. The orange cheesecake, as delicate as a mousse, ends a meal on a light, but flavor-intense note. Sea Grill even offers a wine list that does justice to its food (although the by-the-glass prices are steep). 2205 N. Central Expwy., Ste. 180, Piano, 509-5542. Moderate.
Shell’s Oyster Bar & Grill. Despite its one big flaw-waiters that are blasé about their duties-we couldn’t help but like Shed’s. Start with the peel ’n’ eat shrimp, a hefty portion of perfectly prepared crustaceans. One evening’s fish special turned out to be a tasty, perfectly cooked, thin cut of excellent swordfish teamed with lightly cooked vegetables and rice, but the grilled shrimp dinner with slaw and fries was even better. Cajun touches dot the menu from po-boys to red beans and rice, but Shell’s, hoping to establish itself firmly as a seafood restaurant, is off to a good start. The desserts need work, though, so try an after-dinner drink or cappuccino rather than the overly-sweet, pastry-less peach cobbler. 6617 Snider Plaza. 691-8164. Inexpensive.
Southwestern
Lavaca Cantine. 14902 Preston Rd., Ste. 700 in Pepper Square, 4580458. Moderate.
Sam’s Cafe. Southwestern to the max, this Tex/Mex blend aims to please. Pots of soft, poppy seed-studded bread-sticks stand ready to dip into their accompanying cream cheese/salsa mixture. Caesars take a Southwestern spin with spicy fried strips of tortillas replacing the croutons, while the dressing remains perkily authentic. The “King Ranch Casserole,” a palate-pleasing mixture of chicken, corn tortillas, roasted peppers, cheeses and onions, makes an excellent take-out dish for a dinner the whole family will love. Quesadillas, all five varieties, score high marks, although the ingredients need to be spread out more evenly. Regulars like the eight inventive pastas, and they also know that the poblano chicken chowder, with its sneaky little burn, is a must-order. Sam’s offers a good-sized bar, with a house specialty called the “Grand Canyon”-a 32-ounce margarita. 8411 Preston Rd., Ste. 112, 739-2288. Moderate.
Star Canyon. Superchef Stephan Pyles has a gift for slipping happy little surprises into even the most mundane-sounding dishes. Garlic potato soup, for instance, hid crunchy niblets of mild garlic in its creamy depths, as well as golden cubes of baked sweet potato. A grilled quail was not only halved but boned on a first-course plate mounded with arugula that coyly concealed poached pear slices and zip-spiked Cajun pecans. Coriander-cured venison lived up to its legendary reputation, grilled rare and sliced into rosy petals complemented by whipped yam and an assertive dried fruit empanada; and pan-seared salmon staked its own claim to stellar status sided with a musky black bean-roast banana mash fired with coconut-serrano broth. Even as simple a dessert as bread pudding departs from the commonplace here-the bread’s brioche, dark chocolate enriched: the sauce is sambuca-scented in gentle milk chocolate; the combination of subtle flavors and smooth texture is transcendent. Service was friendly and fast, as always, and we salute a wine list that covers a comfortable price range, as well as overall menu prices lower than many restaurants of lesser rank charge. 3102 Oak Lawn Ave.. 520-7827. Moderate to expensive.
Y.O. Ranch. The food here may be dubbed “early Texas cooking,” but we doubt many Old West ranch cooks whipped up this sophisticated a menu, starting with the seafood corn cake, a vast flapjack concealing nuggets of crab, shrimp, oysters and corn kernels. Other appetizers are as wonderful; the frog legs were grilled to flawless succulence on wild rice with vegetable ribbons and the wild boar sausage was served on a sea of molten cheese. Entrées range from basic steaks (we enjoyed a huge perfect rib-eye) to turkey, catfish, shrimp and the Muy Grande Tex Mex Platter. The New Zealand venison, a thin, lean cut, was rolled around portobello mushroom strips. On the side, we found fresh grilled spinach extraordinarily fine and beautifully seasoned. At lunch, when everything on the menu but the fajitas are a reasonable $5.50, enjoy a country-fried steak that can be prepared in four different styles or one of the Tex-Mex specialties, like Matt’s famed chile relleno. Desserts run the gamut from a wonderful pecan pie to a wretched, dense-as-lead lemon cake. 702 Ross Ave., 744-3287. Inexpensive to moderate.
Spanish
Cafe Madrid. Apart from the house bread, which is totally undistinguished, every bite we sampled here held pure delight. Besides the two dozen or so tapas always available, a daily changing blackboard listing offers as many more, including everything from potato omelet to crisp-fried baby smelt, from wine-poached rabbit to blood sausage. Don’t shudder-that last is a near-religious experience, the dark, crisp-skinned sausage stuffed with rice and onion, filled with rich, meaty flavor, presented in double-bite-size morsels on herb-oiled cushions of bread. Try it with authentic Spanish manchego cheese, thin-sliced in crumbly mellow triangles, and stalks of white asparagus dressed with tomato-, onion- and green pepper-studded vinaigrette. If it’s a more conventional meal you’re after, a three-course dinner is offered nightly-cream of leek soup, veal stew and a cream-filled liqueur cake on our visit, paella on Friday and Saturday evenings. 4501 Travis St., 528-1731. Moderate.
Steakhouses
Bob’s Steak & Chop House. Bob’s packs a crowd, belying the notion that people aren’t eating much beef anymore. Sure, the menu offers plenty of fish and seafood, as well as enough appetizers, salads, and vegetables to satisfy any vegetarian’s hunger; but beef rules in these richly appointed dining rooms. Options abound-three sizes each of filets and strip steaks, a 16-ounce prime T-bone and a dazzling 28-ounce prime porterhouse are just a few of the choices. The rib-eye, cooked to a crust outside and tender inside, couldn’t be better; although the juicy rack of lamb offers head&on competition. Unlike most steakhouses, Bob’s offers accompaniments-a choice of potatoes [pick the garlicky “smashed” potatoes) and a sweet, whole steamed carrot, free with each meal. Equal attention has been given to the massive salads here, from a classic rendition of a Caesar to a meal-in-itself spinach bacon salad. 4300 Lemmon Ave., 528-9446. Moderate to expensive.
Chamberlain’s Prime Chop House. 5330 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 934-2467. Moderate.
Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House. 5251 Spring Valley Rd., 490-9000. Expensive.
Klrby’s Steakhouse. 3525 Greenville Ave,, 821-2122. Moderate to expensive.
Morton’s of Chicago. Understatement reigns here, from dark wood to etched glass, starched white linens and muted Sinatra, and there are more than 30 martini varieties, 501 Elm St.. 741-2277. Expensive.
The Palm. Monster steaks and lobsters are the main draw here, but veal, seafood and poultry are featured, too. Prime rib on a recent visit was an overwhelming platterful. vast and lusciously rare in a crusty coating of seasonings; the veal chop sampled was less delectable, moist but decidedly chewy. These followed a warm appetizer of clams casino-on the half-shell, beneath a chop of celery, carrot and garlic, topped with a crisp curl of bacon-and a cold one involving roasted pimiento blanketing iceberg lettuce under anchovy filets and many capers. Dressed with light vinaigrette, the latter is always fantastic: alas, though, instead of the usual quarter-head chunk of lettuce, the plate held a mere slice this trip-an odd place to cut corners, we thought. A side of green beans was fresh and crunchy; chocolate layer cake was fine. The most recognizable color caricatures of celebs, local and other, that cover the walls were fascinating as usual-although this was the first time we’d realized they were glued, rather than painted directly on the plaster. Tech! 701 Ross Ave., 698-0470. Expensive.
Paul’s Porterhouse. 10960 Composite Or,. 357-0279, Expensive.
Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Ignore the menu’s chicken and seafood-you’re at a steak house where beef is taken very seriously. The steaks, served on a platter sizzling with Cutter, come in six cuts-filet (which we found a little too tender), rib-eye, New York strip, porterhouse and T-bone. The rich marbling of the corn-fed Midwestern beef displays the promise of juiciness to follow. The meaty lamb chops, however, can give the beef a run for the money. Although you have to order side dishes a la carte, most will serve two. The menu offers eight types of potatoes. The cream spinach also complements the beet well. For an appetizer, try the cheesy, crab-stuffed mushroom caps; among salads, go for the Caesar instead of the unexciting Italian version. There is a huge wine list, and for serious grape lovers, the restaurant has a wine room for tastings. 17840 Dallas Pkwy., 250-2244. Expensive.
Stone Trail. The creative appetizer list includes a crab cake combining a wealth of lump crab meat with zestful chile, served with a tangle of vegetables; catfish with green apple tartar sauce; and grilled goat cheese in grape leaves. The rest of the menu bears more typical steakhouse fare, including lobster and an astonishingly pricey free-range chicken. Beef, crusty and juicy, makes the best entree with cheese-rich potato casserole or chile-jazzed whipped potatoes on the side. At lunch. Stone Trail serves a wonderful quesadilla that we’ll put up against any in town. Desserts change daily, but your best choice after dinner may be a drink or cappuccino in the beautiful knockout of a bar, where a jazz singer will entertain you. 14833 Midway Rd., 701-9600. Moderate to expensive.
Texas Lard & Cattle Company. Night or day, this place jumps, and it has carved out its own Dallas niche with popular entrees liked smoked sirloin, mesquite grilled trout and fried pickles. Meals begin with loaves of sourdough bread and a bucket of shell-on peanuts-plain or roof-of-your-mouth-burning spicy. The shrimp cocktail, Caesar and house salads are good starts. Then dive into the star attraction- meat. These thick slices of tender beef pair nicely with the heavenly skin-on homemade mashed potatoes, rich with garlic and pepper. But there are plenty of other choices from mesquite grilled shrimp to camphre chili. Don’t hesitate to fill up on the steak and potatoes, because none of the desserts are worth the calories, so far. 3130 Lemmon Ave., 526-4664. Moderate.
Thai
Chow Thai. 5290 Belt Line Rd., Ste. 144, 960-2999. Moderate.
Royal Thai. Impeccably furnished, accented with small lamps casting delicate pools of light, this is the prettiest (and on its best days, the best) of Dallas’ Thai restaurants. That old standby, lemon grass chicken, is skillfully executed, but try less familiar items, too. On a recent visit, one entrée of crab, scallops, fish, shrimp, squid and peppers on curried rice drew literal cries of delight from the lucky first-time diner, who had to be told that even greater pleasures waited on the menu. If there’s a drawback, it’s in the size of the portions, which are not large; consider appetizers if you’re really hungry. In Old Town, 5500 Greenville Ave., 691-3555. Inexpensive to moderate.
Thai-Thai. A near full house on our last visit made noon service near-brusque and near-instant, but the fare suffered not at all-steamed Thai dumplings were frilled purses plumped with shrimp, pork and vegetables, served with a zesty dipping sauce. Tom Kha Gai (chicken coconut soup) was a miracle of subtle flavor intertacings. smooth coconut milk cushioning pepper heat and filled with white chicken strips, baby corn, lemon grass, lime, cilantro leaves and those dark-capped little mushrooms that look like Disney dancers. Pad Woon Sen heaped an entrée plate with stir-fried glass noodles, chicken and every vegetable known to the Pacific Rim, plus rice and a crisp-skinned spring roll, all for under $5-1731 Greenville Ave. at Ross, 828-9795. Inexpensive to moderate.
Toy’s Cale. 4422-8 Lemmon Ave., 528-7233. Inexpensive.
Tuppee Tong. Although you can order the food with the heat toned down, don’t. You’ll miss the punch of the peanut sauce that comes with the satays (appetizers of skewered chicken, meat, or shrimp) and the kick of the red curry chicken (made daily from home-grown spices]. Balance the heat with a Thai salad of carrot, cucumber and radish slivers in sweetened vinegar, and try one of the eight or so soups offered here in three sizes. Tuppee Tong translates as “big golden spoon,” so keep in mind thai portions are large. And. even better, prices are low. The Village at Collin Creek, 621 W. Piano Pkwy., Ste. 247, Piano, 509-7979. Inexpensive.
Vietnamese
Arc-En-Ciel. The menu here offers more than 300 Chinese and Vietnamese dishes, some authentic, some Americanized. Dim sum is also available. Classic Vietnamese spring rolls, with their transparent wrappers displaying their well-packed interiors of shrimp, vermicelli, mint, pork and garlic chives, taste every bit as good as they look, especially when dipped in the sneakily hot peanut sauce. Tender little shark’s fin dumplings, charcoal-broiled pork over vermicelli and crispy duck disappear fast, but the fresh crab dishes require too much work (and create too much of a mess) to get the meat out of the shell. 3555 W. Walnut Rd., Garland, 272-2188, Inexpensive.
Saigon Savour The cuisine here combines Mediterranean and Asian influences, but the San Francisco owners need to realize that Dallas palates are used to piquancy. We also found ourselves wishing for vegetables, which the Vietnamese cooks usually prepare with finesse. 17370 Preston Rd., Ste. 490. 380-2766. Moderate.
Tarrant County
Angelo’s Barbecue. 2533 White Settlement Rd., Fort Worth, 817-332-0357. Inexpensive.
Benito’s. Like a familiar old friend, Benito’s appearance may be spruced up from time to time, but the food does not change. The queso Flameado, with or without chorizo, is flamed tableside and served with fresh pico de gallo and hot flour or corn tortillas. Order it first and then spend some time with the menu-everything on it is worth trying. The enchiladas can be ordered with mole rojo or mole verde. The chiles rellenos, stuffed with white cheese or beef, are a delight. The fajitas are well marinated and never so overcooked that the subtle marinade flavor is lost. The tacos are big, fresh and filling. 1450 W. Magnolia, Fort Worth, 817-332-8633. Moderate.
Bistro Louise. We’ve rarely found food wonderful enough to warrant a 40-mile return trip, but here the tea-smoked duck-moist and fat-free, its satin skin smoked black and its luscious meat’s near-sweetness offset by a tart cranberry-port salsa-is such a dish. But almost everything we tried here was just as stellar. Other standouts range from Louise’s signature salad to a vegetable tower of peas, diced pepper and smoked corn kernels to a Mediterranean seafood paella. Only one starter fell short: Lettuce timbales weren’t zipped enough with their minted tomato vinaigrette to be interesting. Desserts, lemon coconut cake and a reverse chocolate cake, were humdingers. 2900 S. Hulen (south from 1-30), Fort Worth, 817-922-9244. Moderate to expensive.
City Park Cafe. This small, intimate cafe has an American menu-Louisiana spicy chicken and fish, grilled steaks, good salads. The house salad is the thing to order. Several heart-healthy offerings are included on the menu, although good intentions can die in the arms of the sinful chocolate desserts. Sunday brunches are excellent at this popular courting spot for adult couples. 2418 Forest Park Blvd.. 817-921-4567. Moderate.
Daddio’s Downtown Nearly Jazz Cafe. Like the music its name celebrates, this cafe provides a constantly evolving riff on the theme of service-sometimes it’s faster than other times. But the Greek salad is the best in town, and the rest of the menu gives a unique Texas tone to classic Greek specialties. Breakfast and lunch only, except on Friday and Saturday, when you can listen to great music at night while enjoying your dinner. 715 W. Magnolia. 817-926-7000. Inexpensive.
8.0 Restaurant A Bar The mixture of old brick walls and funky new murals by Fort Worth artists creates a place at once warmly welcoming, even cozy, and yet cutting-edge. Singles love it. The waiters are sassy but efficient, and the food is good. The olivada crostini is an appetizer to die for, if you happen to like olives and garlic. The herb-crusted salmon is flaky and flavorful ; the steaks are crowd-pleasers; and the pasta dishes pleased the vegetarians in our midst. Live music Thursday through Saturday nights. 111 E. 3rd St.. 817-336-0880. Inexpensive.
Gaylen’s. Meat is king at Gaylen’s: a complete range of barbecue possibilities is offered, including beef, sausage, ham. pork loin, chicken, salami and bologna. 826 N. Collins. Arlington, 817-277-1945. Inexpensive.
Joe T. Garcla’s Esperanza’s Mexican Bakery. Not as fancy as its more famous cousin around the corner on North Commerce, the chefs do an excellent job preparing all the old favorites from burritos to tamales. Don’t overlook the soups here: The caldo de res. a homestyle soup with carrots, potatoes and squash, is delicious and filling. The triples a la charra are also above average-they are made with flair and spiciness. Breakfast is a work of art here. Chorizo con huevo (Mexican sauage and eggs) can be ordered with potatoes, ham, bacon or pork skin. And on your way out. the bakery, in an alcove off the dining room, sells traditional Mexican breads, rolls and sweet rolls. 2122 N. Main, Fort Worth, 817-626-5770. Moderate.
Joe T. Garcla’s Mexican Dishes. Probably the Fort Worth restaurant best known to Dallasites. Joe T.’s is a place Fort Worthers take their out-of-town guests if they insist, but there Is much better Mexican food to be had in Fort Worth. However, if it’s atmosphere you want for a big party. Joe T.’s does an excellent job of feeding large groups decent food in record time. Mariachi players stroll among the diners and will take requests. On a nice night, Joe T.’s patio can’t be beat-it’s one of Fort Worth’s best outside dining experiences. Food is served family style and it rarely varies. Solid and dependable. Cash and local checks only. 2201 N. Commerce St., Fort Worth, 817-626-4356. Moderate.
Kowloon Seafood Restaurant. 100 W. Pioneer Pkwy., Arlington, (metro) 817-261-6699. Moderate.
Le Chardon nay. Entrees are to swoon over: Les Patés aux Fruits de Mer “Primavera”-fish, shrimp and scallops sautéed in an olive oil vinaigrette with vegetables, served over fettuccine, was stellar. So was the grilled fresh tuna from the daily specials menu-the generous portion came with a dill-white wine sauce that caused tiny explosions of flavor with each bite. Desserts should not be missed-especially a concoction called “The African Queen’ that looked somewhat like a banana burrito, consisting of a banana rolled up in pastry, covered with a caramel sauce. 2443 Forest Park Blvd., Fort Worth, 817-926-5622. Moderate.
Lucile’s-A Stateside Bistro. Pasta, wood-roasted pizzas, lots of roasted veggies, steaks and sandwiches (including an excellent hamburger) as well as several entrées marked “heart healthy” keep patrons coming back for more. Friendly service, pretty presentation, consistently good food, a lively piano bar-what more can you ask of a neighborhood bistro? They’ll even feed you breakfast on Saturday and Sunday. 4700 Camp Bowie Blvd., 817-738-4761. Moderate.
Panther City Brewery. Is this an elegant, creative Southwestern restaurant or a casual place with an emphasis on gourmet beer, serving the burgers-and-quesadillas menu you expect at such places? Right now, its unfocused menu includes burgers and sandwiches as well as high-priced entrées and appetizers that sound good on the page but don’t quite work on the plate. The jalapeno beer and the cream ale were smooth and tasty: other beers included pale, red and amber ales, plus a stout. 2513 Rodeo Plaza, Fort Worth, 817-626-9500. Moderate.
Rickshaw Chinese Restaurant. 1229 Wood Haven Blvd., Fort Worth, 817-496-6767. Inexpensive to moderate.
Star of Texas Grill. In the Worthington Hotel, 200 Main St.. 817-882-1719. Moderate.
Sundance Market & Deli. There is no better spot in Sundance Square for a casual, imaginative brunch, lunch or dinner. Basic offerings include sandwiches, salads, breakfast, gourmet coffees and homemade desserts. In addition to the regular menu with its rotating salad offerings, dinner specials are available on Friday and Saturday nights; the menu of specials for the month is posted on the outside window. On a recent visit, we sampled salads including a zesty roasted potato salad in a homemade vinaigrette, a lemon pepper chicken and spaghetti salad, and an outstanding jicama m a and mango slaw. Tasty tortilla soup came with shredded cheddar covering the cup and a generous amount of tortilla chips nestled in the Cheddar on one side. This is the rare restaurant that’s quick enough for just a bite, but whose smartly minimalist decor, great coffee and excellent food make it perfect for lingering. 353 Throckmorton, Fort Worth, 817-335-3354. Inexpensive.
Water Street Seafood Company. Near the TCU campus. 1540 S. University Dr., Fort Worth, 817-877-3474. Moderate to expensive.
Related Articles
Local News
In a Friday Shakeup, 97.1 The Freak Changes Formats and Fires Radio Legend Mike Rhyner
Two reports indicate the demise of The Freak and it's free-flow talk format, and one of its most legendary voices confirmed he had been fired Friday.
Local News
Habitat For Humanity’s New CEO Is a Big Reason Why the Bond Included Housing Dollars
Ashley Brundage is leaving her longtime post at United Way to try and build more houses in more places. Let's hear how she's thinking about her new job.
Sports News
Greg Bibb Pulls Back the Curtain on Dallas Wings Relocation From Arlington to Dallas
The Wings are set to receive $19 million in incentives over the next 15 years; additionally, Bibb expects the team to earn at least $1.5 million in additional ticket revenue per season thanks to the relocation.