The world’s most famous chili cookoff turns 25 this month. Yes, the Original Terlingua International Frank X. Tolbert -Wick Fowler Memorial Championship Chili Cookoff hits the quarter-of-a-century mark Saturday. November 2, as chili-heads vie for top honors in the best “bowl of red” competition. Held in beautiful downtown Terlingua, Texas. For information and directions call (903) 874-5601.
Celebrations “A lot of grown-ups are put off and even a little frightened by it all,” admits chef/owner Nancy Beckham of the annual Day of the Dead decorations at her restaurant, Brazos. “But the kids always love it.” They must sense that the seemingly macabre All Souls’ Day and All Saints’ Day festivals are actually a celebration of life. The traditional ofrenda, or altar, set up in the bistro is piled high with marigolds and Day of the Dead figurines. They’re culled from Beckham’s own collection and those of her friends-floral designer Lee Fritts and Ray Grawunder, whose shop, La Mariposa, sells Day of the Dead artifacts all year round. The table is loaded with traditional food-sweet tamales, Oaxacan mole, banana leaf tamales stuffed with pork, pomegranates and special Yucatan sweet bread baked by the Chichen Itza bakery around the corner. “The way we interpret it,” says Beckham, “the soul passes on but comes back to eat its favorite foods.” -Mary Brown Malouf
A Roadhouse Named Rose On THE ROAD Fancy a little funky fun with your food? Pull off the Interstate at Wilmer on your way to Houston, and you’ve got it-Texas Rose calls itself a restaurant and club, but what it is is the kind of authentic rural roadhouse movie sets try to look like and never can. From outside, the building is plain-Jane brick, set down in the bare middle of nowhere. But, walk in any time after 10 a.m. and you’ve entered an atmosphere purely intended for pickin’ and kickin’.
Wednesday through Saturday nights, the music is live, ranging from country to Fifties jazz and blues. The food selection broadens after dark, too, to include homemade enchiladas and other Mexican specialties as welt as the basic home-style menu offered throughout the day.
Most nights the place is jumping with coin-op pool tables and dart tournaments offering a whole passel of diversions along with a little dancing. A little drinking, too-club memberships are $5 a year, and bar prices are cheap.
Tell you what, forget Houston. Get off southbound I-45 at the Fulghum exit instead, 15 miles south of Dallas, and follow the cloverleaf exit loop to the beige building on the east-side access road. Call them at 441-6985 if you’ve got questions. -Betty Cook
Why the French Have Fled Dallas The BIZ In Dallas, as in most U.S. cities, the top tier of restaurants has traditionally been French. But in the last several years, French restaurants have closed as fast as Italian and New American ones have opened. Only a handful of true French restaurants remain in Dallas (The Riviera, Chez Gerard, Watel’s, Bistro Bagatelle and The French Room).
Recently, a panel discussion (sponsored by the American Institute of Wine and Food and appropriately held in The French Room) addressed the topic ’’The State of French Food.” A distinguished group of chefs-Philippe Mouton, chef at the French Room, Damien WateI, chef/ owner of Watel’s, Gerard Bohan, chef/owner of Bistro Bagatelle, Jean Ban-chet, consultant to The French Room, and Jacques Pepin, internationally famous French food in-structor and advocate-addressed the question: Where have all the French restaurants in the U.S. gone? After lunch I caught up with Damien Watel and Guy Calluaud (whose name for years was synonymous with French food in Dallas) and asked about our local problem.
Calluaud blamed the economy- “because people think French food is expensive-and the kind of French cooking people expect, with the cream and the butter and the truffles, is very expensive. But people don’t realize there are all kinds of French cooking.” “People have a certain perception of French food and French restaurants” says Watel. “When I came to Dallas, every French restaurant was a big formal deal-you couldn’t go without a coat and tie. It was all very expensive amd kind of snooty. Now I think there will be more midpriced, casual, chef-owned French restaurants-more like in France.” -Mary Brown Malouf
PICK A PEPPER
A fresh nip in the air calls for zip on the plate, and the distinctive dusky flavor of poblano peppers stuffed with good things delivers it as no other Mexican dish can. Some prime sources for definitive chile rellenos:
Cantina Laredo fries up a classic, plumped with cheese, chicken or beef, batter-dipped, and topped with melted cheese on chunky ranchero sauce. With rice and fri-joles, $7.95. 4546 Belt Line. 458-0962.
Cuquita’s mixes beans, peas, carrots and potato dice with moist beef and white cheese In golden batter, adds super-fresh guacamole salad, beans and rice, plus handmade tortillas, all for $595. 2326 N. Henderson. 823-O913.
Mariano’s takes a health-conscious turn with its chill poblano-the pepper’s stuffed with chicken and cheese, then grilled, not fried, sans batter and topped with melted cheese. With guacamole, rice and beans, $6.75. 55OO Greenville Ave. 691-3888.
Matt’s Rancho Martinez in Lakewood raises vegetarianism to new heights with a molten cheese stuffing, a topping of sour cream crowned with raisins and pecans. With beans and rice, $6.25. 6312 La Vista. 823-5517.
Spanish Village trades on firm tradition with a hand-sized whole pod, filled with Monterey Jack, egg-battered and lavished with Spanish sauce crunched with vegetables. With guacamole, $7.95. 3839 Cedar Springs. 528-9713.
Taqueria Tepatitlan adds soul with a grace note of garlic along with minced carrot-fried. Served only on Tuesdays. With rice, beans, salad and guacamole, $5. 428 S. Hampton. 943-5338. – Betty Cook
MI COCINA The name says it: My Kitchen. After years of working in Mia’s, his mother’s Oak Lawn restaurant, Michael Rodriguez has moved north to stake out his own turf in Preston Forest Village. The locale is classier, and so are the digs, with tropical zings of turquoise and hot pink defining a basic black and ivory color scheme.
Which, slick decor aside, is all-in-the-family familiar. Outside, the wailing faithful cluster patiently on the sidewalk, sipping a rosy drink named Mambo-something-or-other and made with the juices of several forbidden flowers. Inside, friendly pandemonium reigns, along with service that somehow manages to be efficient. Rodriguez’s friends call him Mico, and everybody in North Dallas is already his friend, I’d say, judging by the comments we heard. Some were serious Tex-Mex lovers who followed him from Oak Lawn; others just seemed grateful to welcome a good restaurant to the area.
How good? Outrageously so in the case of light chips, brought with an assertive salsa. Chili con queso, too, was terrific, rich and cheesy; a variation, hongos con queso, added mushrooms and chopped salad to an equation that totaled more than the sum of its parts, tastewise. Bean soup was an excellent, honest version, spiked with bacon and fresh cilantro, better than the tortilla soup that, though fresh, was oversaited. An appetizer platter’s flautas brimmed with moist chicken, its quesadilla plump with cheese, chopped tomato and onion, its beef nacho spicy.
The house version of carne asada is listed as “Morty’s Favorite”; God knows who Morty is, but we had to agree that the grilled beef was fine, its pico de gallo plenty piquant, its saffron-scented rice unusually flavorful. Another special, Lucychanga, held lightly grilled chicken fajita strips in a canoe-shaped fried flour tortilla; the canoe was gummy, but its cheese-topped contents were yummy. A more mundane combination plate ordered from the “Tex-Mex Basics” column contained a guacamole chalupa, beef and cheese tacos and a cheese enchilada; all were top-of-the-line classics. Combos in this column, by the way, are all under $7, and the highest price on the menu is only $9.95. 11661 Preston, Suite 138.265-7704. Open daily 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. MC, V. Inexpensive. -Betty Cook
RAZZOO’S CAJUN CAFE The cute remarks and silly drawings that treat Louisiana life as the stuff of cartoons or theme parks start on the outside walls and continue even onto the menu of this popular new Cajun spot. The food has more to do with restaurant showmanship than with what the good people along U.S. 90 between Lafayette and Morgan City really eat, but this is a well-run place of business. The personable, hard-working servers get the food to the table with dispatch, and the kitchen staff seems well trained, too-fried foods are cooked to order, and the fish and meats are done just right.
What somebody might want to quarrel with Razzoo’s about are the recipes. As at so many commercialized Cajun places, almost everything has too much of that darned South Louisiana hot sauce in it-if you don’t like things spicy, don’t show your face in the door. Then there are positively weird tastes. The fried popcorn shrimp comes with a side of cherry mustard sauce; the honeysuckle ribs are coated with a sickly sweet goo that reeks of cherry soda. What planet did this flavor idea come from? One family member look one taste of the gumbo and said it smelled like old feet-a suprisingly apt description. A big andouille sausage, split lengthwise and hickory grilled, sits atop an order of red beans and rice, but the beans have a faint vinegary aftertaste. The odd presence of peaches in the bread pudding was not quite as offensive as some of these other innovations, but most folks would find this version of the classic dessert too sweet.
These strange notions of what Louisiana food is all about are too bad, because Razzoo’s is capable of turning out some good dishes. I can’t remember how long it had been since I had eaten blackened anything. But the blackened Caribbean snapper here actually turned out to be excellent, moist and seasoned just right.
The boudin sausage appetizer proved a treat for those who enjoy the liverish flavor of this down-home Cajun specialty, and both spicy-shrimp-and-tasso (a Cajun ham) fettuccine and the version of shrimp étoufée passed muster, too. If you know how to order, you can have a good meal and a high ol’ time at Razzoo’s. 13929 N. Central Expwy. 235-3700. Sun.-Thur. 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-2 a.m. All credit cards. Moderate. -W.L.Taitte
MENH’S TAIWAN The original Greenville Avenue Taiwan, once one of Dallas’ premier Chinese restaurants, recently closed. This new restaurant north of LBJ Freeway is an attempt to reconstitute it under new ownership, but with much of the same staff and even some of the same decor. It’s not clear whether the resuscitation was a good idea-in recent years the Greenville Taiwan had slid downward in quality in comparison to its Belt Line cousin. There are so many more authentic restaurants in the area near the new Taiwan that there may not be a niche for middle-of-the-road Chinese cuisine.
Menh’s Taiwan can turn out some impressive Chinese dishes. Interestingly, the most hackneyed and often mistreated ones are the most carefully cooked here. For once, the lowly egg roll tastes fresh and light. And the breast meat in the moo goo chicken has been skillfully cut and juicily stir-fried with crisp snow peas and the freshest of mushrooms. A beautifully sculpted dessert platter of perfectly ripe cantaloupe, apples and oranges demonstrated the restaurant’s concern for serving only top quality foodstuffs.
The more elaborate and even slightlyunusual specialties, though, can disappoint.Hot Szechwan-style fish should boast crispskin and an assertive sauce, but our wholered snapper, while its flesh was white andsavory, sadly came to the table soggy andbland. Prawns rouge (also supposedly aspicy dish) similarly lacked oomph. Overall,the food at Menh’s Taiwan lacks profile andthe authentic excitement that diners atChinese restaurants north of LBJ have cometo expect. 9220 Skillman, Suite 129.553-8989. Sun.-Thur. 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m.,Fri.-Sat. II a.m.-11:30 p.m. All credit cards.Moderate. -W.L.T.
D Revisits Texas Hamburgers. If there’s a betterburger or chicken-fried steak in town than (he versionsserved here, I’ve yet to find it. Badly put as that judgmentis. it’s deeply fell-this down-home eatery’s unaffected offerings never fail to push my satisfaction button, and a recentvisit was no exception. The lowest-priced burger, called theCowboy, was a beefy marvel that must have weighed in atwell over half a pound with its fresh, generous fixings andsturdy bun; I had to cut it in half to manage the monster atall. Onion rings were sweet and crunchy in a fast-fried shellof peppery baiter, and an old-fashioned chocolate mall wasthick and luscious. A selection of full-meal platters introduced since our last visit yielded super-generous portionsof fine chicken-fried steak, fries and pinto beans. We’d havetried the pork chop platter if we’d had room; us it was, wehad more than we could handle with desserts, a creamybanana pudding and a shockingly rich chocolate cake, bothlavish in size. 1606 Market Center Blvd. 747-2222. Inexpensive. -B.C
D Revisits Szechwan Pavilion (Casa Linda). This branch of a Szechwan favorite is not as pretty as the Preston Center location, but it’s attractively decorated with startlingly bright colors, and the service is friendly and helpful. We began our meal with some good, hot potstickers stuffed with fragrant pork and a terrific dish of snow-white chicken strips, transparent onion slices and cucumber crescents arranged next to cold noodles with a peanut-butter-thick sesame sauce. Of the two kinds of beef in the “Beef Duet,” we preferred the steamed steak strips with bright green stallions and plenty of pepper to the cooked-then-fried slices at the other end of the platter. The latter tasted like orange beef without the orange and was crispy and rich but a little loo sweet. Lemon chicken, my kids’ favorite, was crispy and sauced with tangy sweetness. The Szechwan-style string beans were as good as ever, the long round beans glossed with oil and stinging with hot pepper. 1152 N. Buckner. Suite 128. 321-7599. Moderate.
-Mary Brown Malouf
D Revisits Taj Mahal. This convenient Indian restaurant has enlarged its interior and menu since my last visit. The color scheme of soft pinks and the sound of a thrumming sitar created the expected serenity. We ordered the vegetarian least and were pleased: saag paneer, spinach with mild cheese: kheer, a loose rice pudding: dal, black lentils; a mound of that favorite Indian combination, potatoes and peas. To begin, we had the bhaji, crisp silver-dollar-sized fritters of chickpeas and onion especially good with chutney, and chooja chicken drumettes, spiced and fried golden-better than the Colonel’s. Lamb masala, marinated inert cooked in a velvety sauce of tomatoes and cream and ladled over fragrant basmati rice, packed a fiery punch. The onlydisappointment was that the service, usually so attentive andwelcoming at Indian restaurants, was lax. though the restaurant was nearly empty. Caruth Plaza, 9100 N. Central Ex-pwy., Suite 179. 692-0535. Moderate. -M.B.M.
D Revisits Alessio’s. With many entrees over $20 andsome appetizers around the $10 mark, Alessio’s is certainly a contender for Dallas’ most expensive Italian restaurant.The conservatively attired patrons, many of them regulars,who wedge themselves into the two crowded dining roomsdon’t seem to care. The specials seem to be of a quality tojustify the high tariffs more often than the regular menuitems. The blackboard might include such items as a risotto with spicy Italian sausage and lima beans, agnolotti (oversized stuffed pasta) in a white truffle butter sauce, angel hairpasta with lots of fresh lobster or veal medallions toppedwith chanterelle mushrooms. Be sure to save room for thefabulous desserts, like white chocolate icecream moundedwith fresh blackberries or a light, mousse-like tiramisu compounded of mascarpone cheese and espresso. 4117 LomoAlto 521-3585. Expensive. -W.L.T.
D Revisits MoMo’s Italian Specialties. We had heard reports of less-than-professional service at the originalForest Lane location, and when we checked them out wefound there were a few problems: a seemingly inexperiencedwaiter, entrees served in stages as the kitchen turned themout (rather than all at once). But we weren’t especiallybothered by these shortcomings-we’d rather have the foodserved hot than have it wait around. As for the meal itself.MoMo’s creates authentic Italian dishes. For the portafoglioalla MoMo, for instance, a tender piece of beef is sliced andstuffed with Gruyere cheese and prosciutto, then toppedwith a thick sauce of spirits, mushrooms and cream. Eventhe sauce for veal scaloppine al limone is thicker and richerthan at other places. We discovered one splendid new pastadish on this visit-cavatieddi alla rucoia. Little dumpling-like pieces of homemade pasta (not unlike the German spaet-zle) tossed with tomato, pecorino cheese and cooked arugulato create a winning blend of tastes and textures. 9191 ForestLane. Suite A2. 234-6800. Moderate. -W.L.T.
D Revisits Fuji-Ya. Here’s a mom and pop Japanese restaurant that has survived longer than most other Dallas dining enterprises. Many of the little dishes that the Japanese like either as snacks or at meal time are done well here-takeyour pick among fresh-lasting sushi rolls, pan-fried gyozadumplings, tasty yakitori (marinated broiled chicken) orramen noodle soup. For those with the appetite for moreelaborate meals, there’s a crunchy version of shrimp tem-pura. Fish teishoku basically means “fish of the day” inJapanese-on our visit it was nicely broiled salmon, simplebut satisfying. 13050 Coit. 690-8396. inexpensive tomoderate. -W.LT.
D Revisits Primo’s. Who’d have though) this Oak Lawnoasis would be stacked to the rafters by sundown on an ordinary workday evening? We’re talking 6:30 here, and bothpatio and inside tables were so packed, we had to settle fora wretched two-top roughly the size of a breakfast tray in theheart of a hubbub that made conversation impossible. Service, though, was sweet and sunny, and the food came closeto redeeming the experience. My chicken quesadilla was ahuge monster, warmhearted with molten cheese and lenderbreast morsels. My companion’s special of the day from thechalkboard, which we took to be a three-thing combo-fajita, soft taco and cheese enchilada-turned out to be onlytwo. but who cared? The fajita soft taco was mammoth andflavorful, the cheese enchilada lavishly bathed in meaty chilisauce. Flan was uncommonly rich, a sopapilla crisp andlight beneath its drizzle of honey, although we were too satedto finish either. Primo’s may not put out the top Tex-Mex farein town, but it’s easy to see why the place commands repeat-visit loyalty, if not the single-minded devotion it apparentlyinspires among devotees. 3309 McKinney Are. 520-3303 Inexpensive to moderate. -B.C.
D Revisits The Promenade. This is a lovely room at The Mansion, slightly awkward when it’s empty but still a pleasant place far a lingering lunch. We tried the special gumbo with boar lasso (a spicy Cajun ham) and a crab meattaco in a tortilla made bright green with cilantro and spinach,sided by slivers of pepper, tostado and a roast corn pico degallo relish with cilantro. A Caesar salad with house-smoked turkey alongside was properly pungent and toppedwith Parmesan. The famous tortilla soup, however, was tooheavy with chili powder. A grilled breast of chicken, perfectly cooked, came with a pool of creamy pesto sauce underneath and a too-vinegary orzo salad. Sword fish tacos.perfectly cooked meaty chunks of fish served in pretty little red and blue tostado cups, adapted very well to the assertive Mexican seasonings. Desserts were sinfully stellar:crème brulée. bourbon pecan pie that actually tasted oftoasted pecans and was topped with a scoop of homemadechocolate chip ice cream and a chocolate angel food cakedeserving of its name. Throughout the meal, service wassmooth and professional. All together. The Promenade offers a lot of luxury for a reasonable price. 2821 Turtle CreekBlvd. in The Mansion at Turtle Creek. 559-2100. Moderateto expensive. -M.B.M.
D Revisits Rusty Pelican. Tropical plants and ceiling tans that waft lazily back and forth, rather than the rotarykind, lend a South Seas air here- The many fresh fish dishesavailable daily sound more exotic than they really are. Ahiwith Chinese pesto, for instance, was simply grilled whilebrushed with a mild sauce. Fresh sword fish firepot, though,does turn out to be an extraordinary treatment of a fish thatoften disappoints-the flesh of the sword fish is optimallyjuicy and tender, and the peppery sauce adds just enoughflavor without becoming overbearing. The various fishchoices are more rewarding than alternatives like a heavy co-quille of shrimp and scallops in a mushroom cream sauce.The entrees may seem a little pricey, but they do come witha choice of a standout New England clam chowder or a well-dressed green salad. 14655 N. Dallas Pkwy. 980-8950.Expemsove. -W.LT.
Austin’s Barbecue. 2.121 W. Illinois. 337-2242. Inexpensive.Baker’s Ribs. 2724 Commerce. 748-5433. Inexpensive.
Peggy Sue BBQ. 6600 Snider Plaza. 987-9189. Inexpensive.
Riscky’s Barbeque. 1701 N. Market. Suite 104. 742-7001. Inexpensive to inoderate.
Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse. 2202 In wood. 357-7120. 302 N. Market 744-1610. Inexpensive.
Jennivine. 3605 McKinney Ave. 528-6010. Moderate to expensive.
Outback Pub. 1701 N. Market. Suite 105. 761-9355. Inexpensive.
Allen Street Bar & Grill. 2900 McKinney Ave. 871-0256.
Balls Hamburgers. 3404 Rankin in Snider Plaza. 373-1717. 4343 W. Northwest Hwy. 352-2525. Inexpensive.
Cardinal Puff’s. 4615 Greenville Ave. 369-1969. Inexpensive.
Chip’s. 4501 N. Central Expwy. 526-1092. Inexpensive.
Club Schmitz. 9661 Denton Drive. 902-7990. Inexpensive.
8.0. 2800 Routh St. 979-0880. Inexpensive.
Hard Rock Cafe. 2601 McKinney Ave. 855-0007. Moderate.
Prince of Hamburgers. 5200 Lemmon Ave. 526-9081. Inexpensive.
Snuffers. 3526 Greenville Ave. 826-6850. 14910 Midway. Addison. 991-8811. Inexpensive.
Arcadia Bar & Grill. 2114 Greenville Ave. 821-1300. Inexpensive.
Atchafalaya River Cafe. 4440 Belt Line, Addison. 960-6878. Moderate.
Cafe Margaux. 4216 Oak Lawn. 520-1985. Moderate.
Crescent City Cafe. 2730 Commerce. 745-1900. Inexpensive.
Dodoe’s Seafood Cafe. 2129 Greenville Ave. 821-8890.
Louisiana Purchase. 2901 N. Central Expwy., Suite 101, Piano. 423-0533. Inexpensive to moderate.
Nate’s Seafood & Steakhouse. 14951 Midway Road, Addison, 701-9622. Moderate.
Pappadeaux Seafood Kitchen. 3520 Oak Lawn. 521-4700. Moderate to expensive.
Red’s Cajun Queen. 3701 W. Northwest Hwy. 350-9777. Inexpensive to moderate.
Gloria’s Restaurant. 600 W. Davis. 948-3672. 9386 LBJ Frwy. at Abrams. 690-0622. Inexpensive.
Latinamerican Cafe. 4436 Lemmon Ave. 526-4436. Inexpensive.
August Moon. 15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. 2300 N. Central Expwy, Piano. 881-0071. Moderate.
Cafe Panda. 7979 Inwood, Suite 121. 902-9500. Mode rale.
Cathy’s Wok. 4010 W. 15th, Piano. 964-0406. Inexpensive.
Canton Chinese Restaurant. 400 N. Greenville Ave., Suite 25, Richardson 238-1863. Inexpensive.
Chef Wans. 9330 N. Central Expwy., United Artists Plaza. 373-1403. Moderate to expensive.
Chu’s Restaurant. 15080 Beltway, Addison. 187-1776. Moderate.
Crystal Pagoda. 4516 McKinney Ave. 526-3355. Moderate.
Elm St. Shang-Hai. 2807 Elm St. 651-8988. Moderate.
First Chinese Barbecue. Ill S. Greenville Ave., Richardson. 680-8216. Inexpensive.
Grand Taipei. 216 W. Campbell. Richardson. 907-1077. Moderate.
Henry Chen’s. 3701 W. Northwest Hwy. 956-9560. Moderate.
Hong Kong Royale. 221 W. Polk. Suite 200 Richardson. 238-8888. Moderate to expensive.
May Dragon. 4848 Belt Line at Inwood. 392-9998. Moderate.
Restaurant Jasmine. 4002 Belt Line, Suite 200, Ad-dison. 991-6867. Moderate.
Taiwan Restaurant. 4980 Belt Line, Addison. 387-2333. Inexpensive to moderate.
Tasty China. 3514-A W. Walnut. Garland. 276-1999. Inexpensive.
Texas Jade. 3227 McKinney Ave. 871-8898. Moderate.
Tone’s. 11661 Preston. Suite 143. 361-6588. Moderate.
Tong’s House. 1910 Promenade Center. Richardson. 231-8858. Moderate.
Uncle Tai’s. 13350 Dallas Pkwy., in the Galleria. 934-9998. Expensive.
Dallul. 2515 Inwood. 353-0804. Inexpensive to mode rate.
River Nile. 7001 Fair Oaks. 363-1128. Inexpensive to moderate.
Addison Cafe. 5290 Belt Line. Dallas. 991-8824. Moderate to expensive.
Cafe Le Jardin. 4900 McKinney Ave. 526-0570. Moderate to expensive.
Chez Gerard. 4444 McKinney Ave. 522-6865. Moderate to expensive.
Clair de Lune. 5934 Royal Lane, Suite 120. 987-2028. Moderate to expensive.
Epicure Highland Park. 69 Highland Park Village. 520-8501. Moderate to expensive.
Ernie’s. 5100 Belt Line, Suite 502. 233-8855. Moderate to expensive.
Ewald’s. Stoneleigh Hotel. 2927 Maple. 871-2523. Expensive.
The French Room. The Adolphus Hotel. 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Expensive.
Frenchy Cafe. 2240 Gus Thomasson. 328-8474. Inexpensive to moderate.
The Grape. 2808 Greenville Ave. 828-1981. Moderate.
La Madeleine. 3072 W. Mockingbird. 696-0800. 3906 Lemmon Ave. 521-0183. 628 NorthPark Center. 696-2398. Inexpensive.
L’Ancestral. 4514 Travis. 528-1081. Moderate.
Le Brussels. 6615 Snider Plaza. 739-1927. Moderate.
L’Entrecote. Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Very expensive.
Les Saisons. 165 Turtle Creek Village. 528-1102. Expensive.
The Old Warsaw. 2610 Maple. 528-0032. Very expensive.
Pierre’s By The Lake. 3430 Shorecrest. 358-2379. Moderate to expensive.
The Riviera. 7709 Inwood. 351-0094. Very expensive.
St. Martins. 3020 Greenville Ave. 826-0940. Moderate to expensive.
Watel’s. 1923 McKinney Ave. 730-0323. Moderate to expensive.
York St. 6047 Lewis. 826-0968. Moderate to expensive.
Belvedere. 4242 Lomo Alto. 528-6510. Expensive.
Bohemia. 2810 N. Henderson. 826-6209. Moderate.
Cafe Athenee. 5365 Spring Valley. Suite 150. 239-8060. Moderate.
The New Chimney. 9739 N. Central Expwy. 369-6466. Expensive.
Franki’s Li’l Europe. 362 Casa Linda Plaza. Garland Road. 320-0426. 2515 McKinney Ave.. Suite 150. 953-0426. Inexpensive to moderate.
Hofstetter’s. Plaza at Bachman Creek, 3840 W. North-west Hwy., Suite 400. 358-7660. Inexpensive to moderale.
Kuby’s Sausage House Inc. 6601 Snider Plan. 363-2231. 3121 Ross. 821-3121. Inexpensive.
Athens Cafe. 5290 Belt Line, Suite 118, Addison. 991-9185. Inexpensive to moderate.
Goldfinger. 2905 Webb Chapel Extension. 350-6983. Moderate to expensive.
Greek Bistro. 2014 Greenville Ave. 826-8989. Inexpensive to moderate.
Kostas Cafe. 4914 Greenville Ave. 987-3225. Inex-pensive.
Theodore’s Seafood Restaurant. The Comer Shopping Center, 8041 Walnut Hill, Suite 810. 361-1922. Moderate to expensive.
Bishop Arts Cafe. 316 W. Seventh St. 943-3565. Inexpensive to moderate.
Celebration. 4503 W. Lovers Lane. 351-5681. Moderate.
Chubby’s. 1133 E. Northwest Hwy. 348-6065.
Farmer’s Grill. 4015 Lemmon Ave. 521-2281. Inexpensive.
Gennie’s Bishop Grille. 321 N. Bishop. 946-1752. Inexpensive.
Highland Park Cafeteria. 4611 Cole at Knox. 526-3801. 300 Casa Linda Plaza at Garland Road. 327-3663. Lincoln Plaza, 500 N. Akard. 740-2400. Inexpensive.
Highland Park Pharmacy. 3229 Knox. 521-2126. Inexpensive.
Mama’s Daughter’s Diner. 2014 Irving Blvd. 742-8646. Inexpensive.
Original Market Diner. 4434 Harry Hines. 521-0992. Inexpensive.
The Mecca. 10422 Hurry Hines. 352-0051. Inexpensive.
Roscoe’s Easy Way. 5420 Lemmon Ave. 528-8459. Inexpensive.
Rosemarie’s. 1411 N. Zang. 946-4142. Inexpensive.
Theo’s Diner. Ill S. Hall. 747-6936. Inexpensive.
Tolbert’s. One Dallas Center. 350 N. St. Paul. 953-1353. 1800 N. Market. 969-0310. Inexpensive.
Vice Versa. 6065 Sherry Lane. 691-2976. Inexpensive.
Akbar. 2115 Promenade Center. Richardson. 235-0260. Inexpensive (lunch) to moderate (dinner).
Ashoka Indian Cuisine. 5409 Belt Line, Prestonwood Creek Shopping Cemter. 960-0070. Moderate.
India Palace Restaurant. 12817 Preston. Suite 106. 392-0190. Moderate to expensive.
Kebab-N-Kurry. 401 N. Central Expwy., Suite 300. Richardson. 231-5556. Inexpensive to moderate.
Kebab-N-Kurry. 2620 Walnut Hill. 350-6466. Inexpensive.
Moti Mahal. 1492 Spring Valley. Richardson. 238-7673. Inexpensive.
Shalimar. 35 Richardson Heights Village. Central at Belt Line, Richardson. 437-2858. Inexpensive.
Shusmi, 859 N.E. Green Oaks. Arlington. (817) 860-8728. Moderate.
Tipperary Inn. 2818 Greenville Ave. 823-7167. Inexpensive.
Acapella Cafe. 2508 Maple. 871-2262. Moderate.
Cafe Italia. 2720 Stemmons Frwy. 521-0700. Inexpensive to moderate.
Caffe Paparazzi. 8989 Forest Lane. Suite 136. 644-1323. Moderate.
Capriccio. 2616 Maple. 871-2004. Expensive,
Chianti Restaurant and Pizzeria. 9526 Webb Chapel. 350-7456. Inexpensive.
Fausto’s Oven. 300 Reunion Blvd., in the Hyatt Regency Hotel 651-1234. Moderate.
Ferrari’s. 703 McKinney Ave., in The Brewery. 954-1112.Moderate to expensive.
Flip’s Wine Bar & Trattoria. 1520 Greenville Ave. 824-9944. Moderate.
Joey Tomato’s Atlantic City, 3232 McKinney Ave. 754-0380. Inexpensive to moderate.
La Tosca. 7713 lnwood. 352-8373. Expensive.
La Trattoria Lombardi’s. 2916 N. Hall. 954-0801 Moderate.
Lombardi’s at Travis Walk. 4514 Travis Walk. 521-1480. Moderate.
Lombardi’s Expresso. 6135 Luther Lane. 361-6984. Inexpensive to moderate.
Massimo da Milano. 5519 W. Lovers Lane. 351-1426. 2121 San Jacinto. 871-0400. 901 Main Place. Suite CI06 in the NCNB Building. 761-6350. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mi Piaci. 14854 Montfort. 934-8424. Moderate to expensive.
MoMo’s Pasta. 3312 Knox. 521-3009. Inexpensive.
Nero’s Italian. 2104 Greenville Ave. 826-6376. Moderate.
Patrizio. 25 Highland Park Village. 522-7878. Inexpensive to moderate
Piccola Cucina. 1030 North Park Center. Suite 330 691-0488 Moderate.
Pizzeria Uno. 2811 McKinney Ave. 855-0011. 4002 Belt Line. Addison. 991-8181. Inexpensive to moderate.
Pomodoro. 2520 Cedar Springs. 871-1924. Inexpensive to moderate.
Ristorante Savino. 2929 N. Henderson. 826-7804. Moderate to expensive.
Romano’s Macaroni Grill. 4535 Belt Line, Addison. 386-3831. Moderate.
Ruggeri’s. 2911 Routh St. 871-7377. Moderate.
Scuro. 2713 Elm St. 741-0111. Inexpensive to moderate.
Sfuzzi. 2504 McKinney Ave. 871-2606. 15101 Addison Road, Addison. 960-2606. Moderate.
Sweet Basil. I7610 Midway. 733-1500. Moderate.
311 Lombardi’s. 311 Market. 747-0322. Moderate to expensive.
Hana Japanese Restaurant. 14865 Inwood. 991-8322. Moderate.
Hibachi-Ya Japanese Steak House. 3850 W. Northwest Hwy., Suite 510. 350-1110. Inexpensive.
Mr. Sushi. 4860 Belt Line. Addison. 385-0168. Moderate.
Nakamoto Japanese Cuisine. 3309 N. Central Expwy., Suite 360. Plano. 881-0328. Moderate.
Sakura Japanese Restaurant. 7402 Greenville Ave., Suite 101. 361-928. Moderate to expensive.
Shinano Japanese Restaurant. 8830 Spring Valley 644-1436 Moderate.
Shogun of Japan. 5738 Cedar Springs. 351-2281. 3455 N. Belt Line, Irving. 594-6911. Moderate.
Kobawoo. 3109 Inwood. 351-6922. Moderate.
Korea Hometown. 10560 Walnut. 272-9909. Inexpcn-sive to moderate.
Koreana. 12101 Greenville Ave., #107. 437-1211. Inexpen-
Adelmo’s. 4537 Cole. 559-0325. Moderate to expensive.
Monte Carlo. 15201 Dallas Pkwy., in the Grand Kempin-ski Dallas Hotel. 386-6000. Expensive.
Sambuca. 2618 Elm St. 744-0820. Moderate.
Anita’s Mexican Cantina. 7324 Gaston, #319. 328-9639. Inexpensive.
Blue Goose Cantina. 2405 Greenville Ave. 823-6786. Moderate.
Cantina Laredo. 4546 Bell Line. Addison. 458-0962 8121 Walnut Hill. 987-9192. Moderate.
Casa Dominguez. 2127 Cedar Springs. 742-4945. Inexpensive to moderate.
Chuy’s. 211 N. Record. 747-2838. Moderate. Desperados. 4818 Greenville Ave. 363-1850. Inexpensive to moderate El Asadero. 1516 Greenville Ave. 826-0625. Inexpensive
El Ranchito. 610 W. Jefferson. 946-4238. Inexpensive Moderate.
Flamingo Joe’s. 2712 Main. 748-6065. Inexpensive to moderate.
Grandpa Tony’s. 3130 W. Mockingbird. 357-1531. Inexpensive
Javier’s. 4912 Cole. 521-4211. Expensive.
La Calle Doce. 415 W. 12th. 941-4304. Inexpensive to moderate.
Las Cazuelas. 4933 Columbia. 827-1889. Inexpensive.
La Suprema Tortilleria. 7630 Military Pkwy. (at Loop 12). 388-1244. Inexpensive.
Mario & Alberto. LBJ Frwy. at Preston, Suite 425. 980-7296. Moderate.
Mario’s Chiquita. 4514 Travis, Suite 105. 521-0721. 221 W. Parker, Suite 400. Piano. 423-2977. Moderate.
The Martinez Cafe. Preston Park Village, 1900 Prestpn, Piano. 964-7898. Inexpensive.
Matt’s Rancho Martinez Mexican Restaurant. 6312 La Vista. 823-5517. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mercado Juarez. 1901 W. Northwest Hwy. 556-0796. 4050 Belt Line. Addison. 458-2145. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mia’s. 4322 Lemmnn Ave. 526-1020 Inexpensive.
Mi Casa Tex Mex Restaurant. 8301 Westchester. 890-9939. Inexpensive in moderate.
Uncle Julio’s. 7557 Greenville Ave. 987-9900. 4125 Lem-mon Ave. 520-6620. Moderate.
ZuZu. 6423 Hillcrest. 521-4456. 5940 Royal Lane. 739-1312. 3100 Independence Pkwy., Plano. 596-6744. Inexpensive.
AIi Baba. 1905 Greenville Ave. 823-8235. Inexpensive.
Hedary’s Lebanese Restaurant. Promenade Center, 15400 Coit, Suite 2500. Richardson. 669-2112. Moderate.
Bluebonnet Cafe & Deli. 2218 Greenville Ave. 828-0052. Inexpensive.
Dream Cafe. 2800 Routh St., Suite 170, in the Quadrangle. 954-0486. Inexpensive
Aransas Pass. 2912 N. Henderson. 827-8650. Moderate to expensive.
Aristocrat Hotel Bar & Grill, 1933 Main. 741-7700. Moderate to expensive.
Beau Nash. 400 Crescent Court in the Hotel Crescent Court. 871-3200. Moderate to expensive.
Bravo. 2621 McKinney. 871-2786. Moderate.
The Bronx. 3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Inexpensive to moderate.
The Buffalo Club. 2800 Routh St., Suite 125, in the Quadrangle. 748-2400. Moderate to expensive.
By George! 2900 Greenville Ave. 821-1538. Moderate.
Chaplin’s. 1928 Greenville Ave. 823-3300. Moderate to expensive.
City Cafe. 5757 W. Lovers Lane. 351-2233. Moderate.
The Conservatory. 400 Crescent Court in the Hotel Crescent Court. 871-3242. Very expensive.
Crockett’s. Doubletree Hotel at Lincoln Cenire, 5410 LBJ Frwy. 701-5160. Expensive.
Dakota’s. 600 N. Akard. 740-4001. Moderate to expensive.
Deep Ellum Cafe. 2706 Elm St. 741-9012. Moderate to expensive.
Dover’s Grille. Doubletree Hotel at Park West. 1590 LBJ Frwy. 869-4300. Moderate to expensive.
Gershwin’s. 8442 Walnut Hill at Greenville Ave. 373-7171. Moderate to expensive.
Huntington’s. Westin Hotel, Galleria. 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 851-2882. Expensive.
Kathleen’s Art Cafe. 4424 Lovers Lane. 691-2355. Moderate to expensive.
Landmark Cafe. Omni Melrose Hotel, 3015 Oak Lawn. 521-5151. Expensive.
Laurels. Sheraton Park Central Hotel. 12720 Merit Drive, off Coit near LBJ Frwy. 385-3000. Expensive.
The Mansion on Turtle Creek. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 559-2100. Very expensive.
Malibu Cafe. 4311 Oak Lawn. 521-2233. Moderate.
Nana Grill, Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemnions Frwy. 761-7470.
Parigi. 3311 Oak Lawn. 521-0295. Moderate to expensive.
The Pyramid Room. 1717 N. Akard in the Fairmont Hotel. 720-5249. Very expensive.
Quadrangle Grille. 2800 Routh St., Suite 180, in the Quadrangle. 979-9022. Moderate.
Routh Street Cafe. 3005 Routh St. 871-7161. Very expensive.
Atlantic Cafe Too! 14866 Muntfort, Addison. 960-2233. Moderate to expensive.
Aw Shucks. 3601 Greenville Ave. 821-9449. Inexpensive.
Cafe America. 4546 McKinnev Ave. 559-4441. Expensive.
Cafe Pacific. 24 Highland Park Village. 526-1170. Expensive.
Ginger’s Catfish Cafe. 8989 Forest Lane. 235-3251. Inexpensive.
Fishmonger’s Seafood Market and Cafe. 1915 N. Central Expwy., Suite 600, Plano. 423-3699. Moderate. Hampton’s. Preston Center, 8411 Preston. Berkshire Court. 739-3474. Moderate.
Jozef’s Seafood Restaurant. 2719 McKinney Ave. 954-0407. Moderate to expensive.
Maine St. Seafood Grill. 6348 Gaston. 826-8264. Inexpensive to expensive.
Newport’s Seafood. 703 McKinncy Ave. in The Brewery. 954-0220. Expensive.
Oyster’s. 4580 Belt Line. Addison. 386-0122 or 387-4231. Inexpensive to moderate.
S&D Oyster Company. 2701 McKinney Ave. 880-0111. Inexpensive to moderate.
Yoli’s Seafood & Grill. 9220 Skillman, Suite 124. 341-3533. Inexpensive.
Baby Routh. 2708 Routh St. 871-2345. Moderate to expensive.
Blue Mesa Grill. 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy. in Sakowitz Village. Suite 500, Addison. 934-0165. inexpensive to moderate.
Brazos. 2100 Greenville Ave. 821-6501. Moderate to expensive.
Cisco Grill. 6630 Snider Plaza. 363-9506. inexpensive.
Loma Luna Cafe. 4131 Lomo Alta. 559-4011. 8201 Preston, Suite 100 (at Sherry Lane). 691-1552. Moderate.
Sam’s Cafe. 100 Crescent Court, Suite 140. 855-2233. Moderate to expensive.
Zuma. 2701 Stemmons Frwy. 631-3050. Moderate.
Cafe Madrid. 4501 Travis. 528-1731. Inexpensive to moderate.
White Swan Cafe. 2307 Abrams. 824-8122. Moderate.
Arthur’s. 8350 N. Central Expwy., Campbell Centre. Suite M 1000. 361-8833. Expensive.
The Butcher Shop Steakhouse. 808 Munger. off Lamar. 720-1032. Moderate.
Del Frisco’s Double Eagle. 4300 Lemmon Ave. 526-9811. Expensive.
Lawry’s The Prime Rib. 3008 Maple. 521-7777. Moderaie to expensive.
Old San Francisco Steakhouse. 10965 Composite (off Walnut Mill, east of I-35). 357-0484. Moderate to expensive.
Palm Restaurant. 701 Ross. 698-0470. Very expensive.
Ruth’s Chris Steak House. 5922 Cedar Springs 902-8080. Expensive
Wellington Restaurant & Bar. 2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Expensive.
AI’S New York Style Deli. 3301 Oak Lawn, Suite A (entrance on Hall). 522-3354. Inexpensive.
Bagel Emporium. 7522 Campbell. 248-0608. Inexpensive.
Bagelstein’s. 8104 Spring Valley. 234-3787. Inexpensive to moderate.
City Cafe To Go. 5757 W. Lovers Lane. 351-3366. Moderate.
City Market. 2001 Ross, Trammell Crow Center, Suite 200. 979-2696. Inexpensive.
Crescent Gourmet. 400 Crescent Court. Suite 150. 871-3223. Inexpensive to moderate.
Dell News. 15775 HilIcrest. Suite 502. 392-3354. Inex-pensive.
Henk’s European Deli. 5811 Blackwell Street. 987-9090. Inexpensive to moderate.
Marty’s. 3116 Oak Lawn. 526-4070. Moderate.
Pollo Bueno. 3438 Samuell Blvd. 828-0645. Inexpensive.
Tommaso’s Fresh Pasta. 5365 Spring Valley, Suite 158, at Muntfort. 991-4040. Inexpensive to moderate.
Bangkok City. 4301 Bryan at Peak. 824-6200. inexpensive to moderate.
New Slam. 2415 Willowbrook, Suite 108 (at Northwest Hwy. and Harry Hines). 358-5679. Inexpensive to moderate.
Sala Thai. 4503 Greenville Ave. 696-3210. Moderate.
Thai Cuisine. 1915 Central Expwy. (off Park), Plano. 422-5219. Moderate.
Thai Lanna. 1490 W. Spring Valley. Richardson. 690-3637. 4315 Bryan. 827-6478. Moderate.
Thai Lotus. 3851-D Cedar Springs. 520-9385. Inexpensive.
Thai Nlpa. 4315 Lemmon Ave. 526-6179. Inexpensive.
Thai Soon. 2018 Greenville Ave. 821-7666. Inexpensive.
Thai Taste. 4501 Cole. 521-3513. Moderate.
Toy’s Cafe. 4422-B Lemmon Ave. 528-7233. Inexpensive to moderate.
Arc-en-Ciel. 3555 W. Walnut. Garland. 272-2188. Inexpensive to moderate.
Cafe de Saigon. 5617 W. Lovers Lane. 350-8767. Moderate.
East Wind. 2711 Elm St. 745-5554. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mai’s Cuisine. 4814 Greenville Ave. 739-5424. Inexpensive.
LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES
Bistro Bagatelle. (French) 406 W. Abrams, Arlington. Metro 817-261-0488. Moderate to expensive.
Cacharel. (French) Brookhollow Two, 2221 E. Lamar, Suite 900, Arlington. Metro 817-640-9981. Moderate.
China Terrace. (Chinese) 5435 N. MacArthur, Irving. 550-1113. Inexpensive to moderate.
Esparza’s. (Mexican) 124 E. Worth St., Grapevine. Metro 817481-4668. Inexpensive.
Gaspar’s. (New American) 150 S. Denton Tap Road, Coppell. 393-5152. Moderate.
Jinbeh. (Japanese) 301 E. Las Colinas Blvd., Suite 301, Irving. 869-4011. Moderate.
La Margarita. (Mexican) 3636 N. Belt Line. Irving. 570-1137. Inexpensive to moderate.
Tandoor. (Indian) 532 Fielder North Plaza, Arlington. Metro 817-261-6604. Moderate.
Via Real. (Mexican) 4020 N. MacArthur, Irving. 255-0064. Moderate to expensive.
Benito’s. (Mexican) 1450 W. Magnolia- (817) 332-8633. Inexpensive.
Cafe Aspen. (New American) 3416 W. Seventh. (817) 877-0838. Moderate to expensive.
Ciao. (Italian) 2454 Forest Park Blvd. (817) 924-2426. Inexpensive to moderate.
Kincaid’s. (Burgers) 4901 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 732-2881. Inexpensive.
Hedary’s. (Lebanese) 3308 Fairfield off Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-6961. Moderate.
Jons Grille. (Burgers) 3009 S. University. (817) 923-1909. Inexpensive.
Juanita’s. (Mexican) 115 W. Second. (817) 335-1777. Moderate.
Ristorante La Piazza. (Italian) 3431 West Seventh. (817) 334-0000. Moderate to expensive.
Le Chardonnay. (French) 2443 Forest Park Blvd. (817) 926-5622. Moderate to expensive.
Papi’s. (Puerto Rican) 2239 N. Main. (817) 6254413. Inexpensive.
Reflections. (New American) The Worthington Hotel, 200 Main. (817) 870-1000. Expensive.
Saint Emillon. (French) 3617 W. Seventh. (817) 737-2781. Moderate to expensive.
Tejano Mexican Cuisine. (Mexican) 5716 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 737-7201. Inexpensive to moderate.
Tours Restaurant. (New American) 3500 W. Seventh. (817) 870-1672. Moderate to expensive.
Water Street Seafood Co. (Seafood) 1540 S. University Drive. (817) 877-3474. Moderate.
The Art Bar. 2803 Main. 939-0006.
Club Clearview. 2806 Elm St. 939-0006.
Club Dada. 2720 Elm St., at Crowdus. 744-3232.
Dave & Buster’s. 10727 Composite, near Walnut Hill at Stemmons Frwy. 353-0649. 8021 Walnut Hill. 361-5553.
Exodus. 210 N. Crowdus. 748-7871.
Froggy Bottoms. Pan of Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace, 2019 N. Lamar. 988-0581.
Greenville Bar & Grill. 2821 Greenville Ave. 823-6691.
Improv Comedy Club and Restaurant. 9810 N. Central Expwy., Suite 600. 750-5868. 4980 Belt Line at Quorum, Suite 250. Addison. 404-8503.
Infinity. 703 McKinney Ave. 720-1300.
The Library Bar. Omni Melrose Hotel, 3015 Oak Lawn. 521-5151.
Network. 5500 Greenville Ave., Suite 403. 361-9517.
Memphis. 5000 Belt Line. Suite 500. 386-9934.
Mimi’s. 5111 Greenville Ave. 368-1994.
Mucky Duck. 3102 Welborn. 522-7200.
Pete & Sean’s Angry Dog. 2726 Commerce. 741-4406.
Poor David’s Pub. 1924 Greenville Ave. 821-9891.
Stan’s Blue Note. 2908 Greenville Ave. 824-9653.
State. 3611 Parry 821-9246.
Studebakers. NorthPark East, 8788 N. Central Expwy. 696-2475.
Trees. 2707 Elm St. 748-5009.
2826. 2826 Elm St. 741-2826.
Video Bar. 2610 Elm St. 939-9113.