Siam. Rejoice! O ye loyal followers of Thai cooking. The great Siam is back! Gone from the scene for more than a lamentable two years, Siam Restaurant finally returned in January. Chad and Pam Armradit, proprietors at the two previous locations, promised to reopen in a more attractive place with a more ambitious menu. But the wail was such that many fans had given up hope.
At last, there is a Siam in an unintimidating location (a new shopping center on Harry Hines just north of Northwest Highway), with a setting that is indeed attractive (lots of wood, plants, and waitresses in unpretentious native costumes). At press time, the new menu had not materialized, but one was promised soon.
The most important thing about the resurrection of Siam, of course, is that one of Dallas’ great restaurants is back-and in top form. The signature dishes that made the original Siam’s reputation are as good as ever: the skewered pork satay conies with peanut-and-curry sauce made from a secret recipe, the spring rolls are still far and away the best in Dallas, the beef salad has a lovely fresh-broiled flavor and is rolling in leaves of fresh mint.
Main dishes include wonderfully garlicky pork with broccoli and red curry shrimp spicy with fresh jalapenos. Even a simple dish like a Thai adaptation of stir-fried Chinese chicken boasts farm-fresh vegetables like mushrooms and Napa cabbage.
And pud Thai, a great snack dish of nice noodles cooked with shrimp, ground peanuts, and scrambled egg, tastes better at the Siam than anywhere. The Siam was the first Thai restaurant in Dallas, and its early success has spawned lots of rivals. Some of them do compete on a very high level, but so far none have topped or even quite equaled it.
With its new amenities, and service that is more professional than at previous Siams, this is one of Dallas’ all-time great Asian restaurants. (Northwest Corners Shopping Center, 2415 Northwest Highway #108 [most easily accessible from Harry Hines Boulevard]. 358-3122, 358-3123. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri-Sat 11 am-11 pm. All credit cards. $$)
The Butcher Shop. This new West End restaurant reduces the concept of meat and potatoes to its simplest essence. The large space features a refrigerator case from which you name your own personal hunk of beef. All cuts are $14.95 (or $9.95 a person if shared between two); and you have a choice of a 14 oz. fillet, a 20 oz. rib-eye, a 23 oz. strip, a 24 oz. top sirloin, a 28 oz. T-bone, or a hefty shishkabob.
The gimmick here is that you are encouraged to grill your own steak over a big hickory charcoal pit-a task more difficult than it sounds, since the thick cuts of beef are tricky to time to the right degree of doneness.
If you prefer, for $2 extra the grillman will cook the steaks for you. Because he persists in stirring the coals to flame by dousing them with squirts of water, the outside of the steaks tend to get black and smoky before the inside has had much chance to cook. But for those who like their steaks doctored, there are all different sorts of flavored salts provided.
The quality of the meat is good, though far from USDA prime-but the quantity is undeniably bounteous for the price.
Extras here are definitely given short shrift. The salad bar is stocked with bare essentials only, and plain Jane potatoes baked in foil jackets wait to be plucked from a pan by the grill. Diners can cook their own Texas toast as they wait by the roaring (surprisingly hot) fire. (808 Munger Ave. at Lamar. 720-1032. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. MC, V, AE. $$)
Decatur St. Here’s a new restaurant to ride the best of the Cajun tide alongside the commendable Cafe Margaux. This Upper Greenville restaurant may be uneven so far, but the best dishes engender great hope for the future here.
We recommend starting with the Three-Way Soup-small samplings of gumbo, oyster and artichoke soup, plus the soup of the day. The gumbo, made with a dark roux, is probably the most authentic you will find in Dallas. The oyster and artichoke soup is subtle and satisfying. The soup of the day when we were there was Creole chicken, smoky and a bit spicy.
Appetizers in general are strong at Decatur St., with choices among a tender shrimp remoulade, airy redfish beignets (quick-fried fritters), and rabbit tenderloin with mustard sauce (not optimally juicy, but pleasant). Among entrées, the blackened redfish would be our first choice for anyone not already surfeited on this trendy dish; this is an exemplary version, satisfyingly seared and cooked to tender flakiness.
For a fine ending to a meal, the bread pudding with rum sauce is an unusually light version-though not the best we have had, even in Dallas. Fried fish also makes a notable appearance among the entrées-in this case catfish, with good homemade fries as an accompaniment.
The only disappointments were a shrimp étouffée that tasted so strongly of tabasco that it was barely edible (not only blazingly hot but too vinegary), and a sautéed seafood platter with meuniere sauce that was simply bland. And its only alternatives are various cheesecakes. (7015 Greenville Axe. 361-4772. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri 5:30-11, Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)
Evergreen Garden. This Chinese restaurant has a menu usefully divided into the regions of China-Cantonese, Mandarin, Hunan and Szechwan, and so on. The spicy Hunan and Szechwan dishes seem to be the most successful. The scallops with garlic sauce proved succulent and plenty spicy, the orange flavor beef (listed among the gourmet specialties) tender and not overly sweet, as you sometimes find it.
There are a few unusual appetizers like the Nanking pork rolls (like moo shi pork cooked in a heavy hoi sin sauce), but the sauce on the hacked chicken tasted as if it had come straight from a bottle of peanut butter. Neither the crispy duck nor the sizzling rice soup lived up to their adjectives, but the sautéed spinach was fresh and crisp and came with large buds of garlic. One of the most interesting dishes here came from a separate menu of new specialties-Shang-hainese shrimp (big prawns with vegetables in a sauce subtly flavored with vinegar).
For dessert there are green tea and pineapple ice creams and mandarin orange sherbet. (434 Northlake Shopping Center, Ferndale at Northwest Highway. 553-1188. Mon-Thur 10-10, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun noon-9:30. Alt credit cards. $$)
McArthur’s. This place in Addison advertises itself as “An American Grill,” but the ads don’t bother to mention that it is located in a Harvey House hotel. We have been pleasantly surprised by restaurants in this chain before, so we decided to go ahead and check out this one.
Its most unusual attraction is the Marketplace-a glorified salad bar that includes shrimp and crab, meat and pasta salads, soup and a hot dish or two in addition to fruit and greens. The quality is pretty high (we enjoyed the herring and the highly seasoned marinated vegetable salad). For bigger appetites, the menu includes steaks and chops, swordfish and other denizens of the deep, and even fresh lobster. The lobster is well cooked and not outrageously priced, and McArthur’s does a creditable job on things like a mixed grill that includes lamb, beef, chicken, and shrimp.
Just don’t expect recherché sauces-this is an American grill of a previous era, not the modern sort where your steak or fish is liable to come swimming in a sauce made of chili peppers and kumquats. A dessert cart holds cakes (both the chocolate and the hazelnut torte were tasty enough) and other temptations. (14315 Midway Road. 980-8877. Daily 6:30 am-11 pm. All credit cards. $$-$$$)
13 Coins. This is likely to prove a really useful restaurant for Dallas. 13 Coins- which, you guessed it, embeds said number of moneypieces in acrylic on every table-never closes, and there are few restaurants in the city that can make that claim. The menu is huge, and it runs the gamut from steaks to sandwiches to pasta, but it leans mostly toward Italian-American.
On the ground floor of a new office building one block east of Oak Lawn and one block south of Lemmon, 13 Coins is divided into a spacious bar and a rather claustrophobic dining area. Huge, swiveling easy chairs sit in front of a bar where you can watch the cooks work, and cozy booths line the wail (there are no free-standing tables in the restaurant section). The booths go up almost to the ceiling. This affords diners their privacy but it makes it difficult to flag your waiter in a pinch.
All the food we have tried at 13 Coins has been edible, if not especially memorable. The New York strip did seem dry-aged as promised on the menu, almost past the point of enjoyableness, and came with a strong-tasting herbal butter that perhaps had a bit of anchovy chopped into it. Baked halibut, the waiter’s recommendation among the many seafood offerings, proved bland except for a slightly bitter edge that may have come from the chopped dill garnish. Perhaps the best entrée we sampled was the sautéed scallops, simply but deliciously done. The half-and-half combination of ravioli and spaghettini in a light tomato sauce, topped with lots of freshly grated cheese, was disappointingly tasteless.
Every meal is preceded by a complimentary antipasto tray with salami and pickled vegetables. Appetizers from the menu include fried cheeses of several varieties, breaded and accompanied by a marinara sauce, and steamed mussels in a portion almost too generous for an appetizer. The oysters Bienville were very tasty and well prepared. A shrimp and crab meat cocktail suffered from a lack of freshness-perhaps the very large menu poses a strain on keeping foodstuffs for a restaurant that has not yet found its clientele.
For our money, the best dessert is a white chocolate mousse with specks of dark chocolate mixed in. The sweet potato pie with pecans we sampled was a fair rendition of this new New Orleans specialty, but the Key lime pie tasted more like a gelatinous chiffon than the real thing.
Though the service is aggressively attentive, we probably would bypass 13 Coins at the regular evening dining hour. But Dallas is noticeably short on twenty-four-hour restaurants, and if we wanted a substantial meal at an off hour we would be tempted. (3710 Rollins. 522-3720. Daily 24 hours. All credit cards. $$-$$$)
311 Lombardi’s. Set in the West End eatery that used to be Silvano’s (also owned by the Lombardi chain), the newest Lombardi’s sports a far more informal (but still elegant) look, with several levels of bustling tables, a serenading string trio, lots of glamorous and trendy faces, and a view of the kitchen. In many ways this new restaurant is a breakthrough in both style and substance for the Lombardi’s group. The dishes tend to be notably truer to the authentic Italian spirit.
Occasionally though, even here, Continentalized, homogenized treatment of some foods discourages us from believing that 311 Lombardi’s finally offers us the Italian restaurant Dallas has been waiting for. We found it practically impossible to make a waiter, even one with a strong Italian accent, understand that we wanted to dine in true Italian style, with an antipasto course, followed by a pasta course, followed by a meat course.
We did persuade one to bring us small orders of pasta, after several rounds of negotiations, but they came, alas, with rather than before the main course. By and large, pastas were the least appealing of all the dishes that we tried: the penne all’arrabiata, though rabidly spicy as promised by their name, suffered from an overrefined sauce, too uniformly pink to provide any reminder of a fresh tomato.
The waiter brought tortellini (not actually on the menu) instead of the larger, and by description more interesting, tortelloni- again the sauces were anonymous-tasting. The best of the pastas was a simple linguine with white clam sauce, heartily flavored and appropriately al dente. The gnocchi (potato dumplings), which can serve duty as a pasta course, unfortunately, turned out to be heavy and unappealing.
There are some very good dishes at 311 Lombardi’s. The focaccia bread (a kind of cheeseless, sauceless pizza) comes from a wood-burning oven perfectly crisp and salty, tasting of olive oil and rosemary. An interesting combo of fried calamari and zucchini was tasty, but we were less taken with the cold assortment of antipasti-the various items were slightly overcooked and had little individual flavor. Likewise, the special hot antipasto of seafood was too much dominated by chewy rings of squid.
For the main courses, we tried an appetizing costoletta alla milanese, a large bone-in veal cutlet with a vinegary topping that includes cooked arugula. The fish special of mahi-mahi bore an unconvincing sauce sweet with papaya. The best dessert proved to be the tirami su, an espresso mousse layered with slices of cake; the various tortes and cakes suffered from staleness and sugary icings. (311 Market. 747-0322. Mon-Fri 11 am-midnight, Sat 5 pm-11 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)
Vivas. There’s not much unusual about this new Upper Greenville Tex-Mex place except the patio with tables out front-even the high-tech-cum-cactus look inside is becoming highly commonplace now-but we enjoy it all the same.
We found the service both efficient and helpful, and the food is considerably better than the Dallas Tex-Mex norm, especially on this drag. The beef fajitas are tender, not scorched on the sizzling metal plate, and served with fresh-tasting guacamole and cilantro-spiked pico de gallo in an edible fried flour-tortilla shell. The chiles rellenos are ordinary enough (though their spiciness indicates they are made from real chiles poblanos), but the standard Tex-Mex dishes are well prepared. Not only are the enchiladas steaming in a flavorful chili gravy, but the refried beans have more than the usual texture and a heartier taste as well. A tender steak ranchero comes with a skewer of grilled mushroom, peppers, onions, and even pineapple and banana in a flavorful tomato sauce.
The appetizers here are ubiquitous, consisting of the usual nachos (on crisp chips) and quesadillas, but desserts (except for a grainy flan) are fun: a Kahlua mousse for those in the mood for something light, sopa-pillas for those wanting to go home full to the brim. (1750 Greenville Ave. 692-9891. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11-midnight, Sun 4 pm-11 pm. All credit cards. $$)
RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS
WE HAVE omitted the numerical ratings that previously accompanied each restaurant review Our next biannual Restaurant Guide, which will be published in August, will unveil the new ratings of all the restaurants we review. Until then, however, we will continue to flag the superior-and highly recommended- restaurants with a big. bold D.
Restaurant visits by our reviewers are done anonymously in order to avoid preferential treatment Inclusion in this listing has nothing whatsoever to do with paid advertising.
The pricing structure is based on the cost of dinner for one, including an appetizer, entree, dessert, and glass of wine:
$, less than $10 (considered a good bargain)
$$, $10-$25 (middle ground for a good meal)
$$$,$25-$50 (expensive)
$$$$, $50 (very expensive)
“Reservations” indicates that the restaurant will accept reservations.
Credit card notations include: MC/MasterCard, V/Visa, AE/American Express, DC/Diners Club, CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” indicates lthat all five are accepted.
Bon appetit!
AMERICAN NOUVELLE
D Blom’s. Every dish here stretches the imagination to its ultimate. On our last visit the ever-changing menu yielded duck liver with ginger and mango; a salad of endives, oysters, and tiny beets: rack of lamb crowned with an herb souffle and lots of fresh rosemary; and a crepe filled with a light mixture of yams and walnuts. The wild-game terrine, the salad with goat cheese and crumbled walnuts, and the chocolate Marquise were exemplary, too. On this visit, so was the service. (Westin Hotel, Galleria. 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 851-2882. Daily 6:30-10 pm; Sun brunch: 10:30-2. Reservations recommended Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$)
D Dakota’s. The new chef hired on at the end of the summer raised the food here to a new level. The grilled specialties like the medallions of tenderloin (accompanied by a silky sauce) and fish-of-the-day yellowfin tuna are once more reliably cooked. The accompanying grilled vegetables are not too smoky in taste and are done to just the right degree of tenderness. But more complex recipes now are even better The daily pasta special, with scallops and wild mushrooms, has an autumnal richness that makes it one of the city’s foremost pasta dishes And if you thought duck soup was only the title of a Marx brothers movie, try the dish here-you’ll be in duck soup! (600 N Akard. 740-4001. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-11:30; Sun brunch: 11-2:30. All credit cards. Lunch $$. dinner $$$)
D The Mansion on Turtle Creek. Chef Dean Fearing has his own menu in place now, and the result is the most exciting cooking in town. The appetizer of rabbit and venison sausage is delightfully audacious, and the rich sauces on dishes like the roast Indiana duck are unmatched You can’t go wrong with one of Fearing’s complex salads (like asparagus, pasta, and salmon in green apple vinaigrette), grilled fish (like Louisiana grouper with papaya-basil sauce), or any of the mouth-watering desserts. Especially memorable was the chocolate-banana cream cake with orange curd sauce. One element has been retained from the old Mansion menu – to get the delicious side dishes like the truffle potato or the zucchini, eggplant, and tomato casserole you still have to shell out extra bucks and lots of them. (2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Main dining room-jackets and ties required. Lunch: Mon-Fri noon-2:30: brunch: Sal noon-2:30. Sun 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11; supper: Mon-Thur 10:30 pm-midnight, Fri & Sat 11 pm-midnight Promenade Room-breakfast: daily 7-10:30; Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; tea: Mon-Fri 3-5:30 Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)
Parigi. This trendy place doesn’t seem quite as popular as it was when it first opened a year ago, but we find that the food and service have actually improved. There’s still the same striving for originality-to the point of shocking, sometimes – but on our last visit all the far-out recipes worked The salad of arugula and warm goal cheese was spiked with a vinaigrette with mashed black olives and sprigs of fresh herbs. The appetizer sampler plate included ratatouille (with yellow squash instead of zucchini) and a delicious curried tuna and pasta salad. One of Parigi’s specialties is off-the-wall pasta combinations; ours of black-pepper fettuccine, chicken, candied onions, spinach, and Gruyère was cooked to perfection So was the sautéed Pacific flounder, sauced with capers. Both the chocolate glob (a pudding with lots of walnuts) and the pear cobbler came coated with a mound of lightly whipped cream. (3311 Oak Lawn, Suite 102. 521-0295 Lunch. Tue-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Tue-Thur 6:30-10:30, Fri & Sal 6:30-11; Sat brunch: 10-3. Closed Sun & Man. MC. V, AE, DC. $$-$$$)
D Routh Street Cafe. When this place is in top form, it is as good as any restaurant in the history of Dallas. Appetizers were especially imaginative on our last visit: deboned, roasted quail halves sat on top of a sweet potato pancake bathed in a sauce made from one of the new California dessert wines; a ragout of lobster, sweetbreads, black mushrooms, and corn boasted a complex, creamy sauce. The main courses were the most Mexican-influenced we had ever tried here: a sauce made of tomatillos and barely cooked black beans lapped a red snapper fillet, and a half-moon of slices of wild boar came with a sensational smoked vegetable tamale. As always, the little extras (cantaloupe-spearmint ice and the most delicate corn muffins in our experience) were exemplary, and desserts (blueberry tart with orange curd and blackberry buckle with cinnamon ice cream) remain peerless. (3005 Routh at Cedar Springs. 871-7161. Tue-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)
D West End Oasis. Probably the handsomest restaurant in Dallas with its granite waterfall and commissioned an, the West End Oasis boasts “cuisine du soleil”-a cross between New Southwestern and provencal cuisines. The inventive soups and luscious desserts are almost always impressive, but the entrées (often grilled) sometimes lack oomph. The tender young chicken, for instance, is grilled to juicy doneness, but in these surroundings one expects some sort of sauce or something to give an extra boost of flavor. The most outstanding main course we have tried is !he swordfish. Service is attentive-sometimes a bit too much so. (302 N Market [entrance on Pacific], 698-9775. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. All credit cards. $$$$)
CHINESE
Cathy’s Wok. When we heard that the Cathy for whom this restaurant is named is Catherine Liu. the local cookbook writer and Chinese cooking teacher, we headed eagerly for Piano to check out the operation. Liu’s restaurant concept turns out to be a kind of Chinese fast food place. There is a drive through at the end of the strip shopping center location, and much of the business is of the telephone-and-pick-up variety. An added twist is that Cathy’s Wok claims that its food is healthier than at other Chinese places -only vegetable oil is used and no MSG is added to dishes- and that every effort is being made to keep prices low The food is better-than-average Chinese restaurant fare, though no! the special experience we had hoped for based on Liu’s reputation. (4010 W 15th, Piano. 964-0406. Mon-Thur 11 am-9 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-9:30 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)
Crystal Pagoda. Crystal Pagoda is living up to its promise of becoming one of Dallas’ top Chinese restaurants. Bon Bon chicken, in a spicy peanut sauce, is a zingy appetizer for those who like hot foods-or you might try a half order of Peking duck, a bargain at $12.50 Hunan lamb, though no! particularly peppery, proved subtle enough even for those who generally don’t find lamb appealing And a! Crystal Pagoda even an old standby like sweet-and-sour pork receives royal treatment. (4516 McKinney. 526-3355. Mon-Thur 11:30 am- 10 30 pm, Fri 11 30 am-11 pm, Sat noon-11 pm. Sun noon-10:30 pm. MC, V,AE. $$)
D REVISITS
August Moon. The long-awaited new Piano location of this favored Chinese restaurant is bright and airy by day, spacious and handsome all the time. The food mostly lives up to the high quality that has become the standard at the original Preston site. A Hunan-style whole red snapper we sampled, for instance, could not have been fresher or tastier. Another of the “gourmet specialties” also lived up to the claims made for it-Papa Tsay’s Magic Basket included real crab meat (not the ersatz variety found at so many places these days), lobster, scallops, chicken and tender beef, along with fresh vegetables in a lacy basket of fried noodles Ham and winter melon soup made a fine starter. One element here definitely did not live up to our expectations: the service, though well-meaning, was clumsy and agonizingly slow. (15030 Preston at Belt Line, 385-7227; 2300 N Central Expwy, Piano. 881-0071. Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. Bar by membership. All credit cards. $$.)
Forbidden City. Instead of a whole appetizer tray, we specialized in the meaty cho-cho and the nicely fried shrimp toast, with good results. Among the main courses. General’s chicken did not prove very spicy, but the fried chunks of chicken meat in a hearty sauce were satisfying anyway. At Forbidden City. Mongolian beef is essentially strips of beef stir-fried with lots of scallion. Shrimp with cashews made a pleasing lighter contrast. The watchful waiters here always make sure water glasses are full-sometimes to overflowing. (5290 Belt Line. 960-2999. Mon-Thur 11 am-l0:30 pm. Fri & Sat 11 am-3 am, Sun noon-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Pacific Pearl. This is one of the most pleasant Chinese places in the city. It’s airy, bright, and washed in soft pink colors. Our mushrooms stuffed with shrimp could have offered more taste, but everything else -from a great cold noodle appetizer in peanut sauce to eggplant in a redolent garlic sauce and a bountiful ménage a trois of chicken, beef, and shrimp-was first-class. And a note of praise for the service. Granted, the restaurant was far from crowded, but our waitress was attentive and instructive beyond the call of duty. (601 Pacific. 745-1688. Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11:30 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)
Royal China. This neighborhood place is well worth a visit, for owner Buck Kao’s warm welcome as well as for the very good food. The sizzling rice soup lives up to its name, and although the dry stir beef doesn’t-it’s saucier than the authentic version- it tastes fine, too. From the bean sprouts sautéed with shredded pork to the kung po shrimp topped with peanuts, Royal China is dependable and enjoyable. Service is usually exemplary, but on our last visit it was a bit unsmiling. (Preston Royal Shopping Center. Preston at Royal, Suite 201. 361-1771. Lunch daily 11:30-2 30; dinner daily 5:30-10 All credit cards $$)
Taiwan. We hit both branches of this favorite Chinese place close together and found an interesting contrast. The original location on Greenville, which seemed elegant enough when i| opened, now seems a bit dowdy in contrast to the newer location and to the other fancy Chinese restaurants in town. But it is probably the best place in town to eat late a! night – the sautéed scallops we tried were perfectly cooked. The Addison branch is similar in quality, but the handsome surroundings make the experience much more festive. We enjoyed the whole fish with Szechuan sauce, the tangerine beef, and the chicken with vegetables. (6111 Greenville. 369-8902; 4980 Belt Line, Addison, 387-2333. Mon-Thur 11.30-11, Fri 11:30am-3 am. Sat 10:30am-3 am. Sun 10.30 am-11 pm at Greenville location; Sun-Thur11 30 am-10:30 pm,Fri & Sat 11:30-11:30 at Addi-son location Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$)
D REVISIT
Tong’s House. This tiny restaurant is the Old China Hand’s favorite in far North Dallas, partly because of the extremely long and authentic menu and partly because of the seafood specials on weekends. Want to try Pig’s Stomach with Bean Soup? Those not daunted by the name will find it tolerably close to Split Pea in taste, though the texture of the pork pieces is individual enough to alarm the squeamish. The wary will do better to slick with such specialties as the Kon Po scallops, simply tossed with long lingers o1 dark brown hot peppers. Tong’s Special shrimps do not turn up on the regular menu, but are a tasty bet on weekends. (1910 Promenade Center, Richardson, 231-8858. Tue-Sat 11 am-9.30 pm, Sun 11 am-9 pm. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$)
D Uncle Tai’s Hunan Yuan. It’s always good to see a successful restaurant trying to better itself, so we were pleased to see that Uncle Tai had put a whole bevy of new specialties on the menu. Of !he four we tried, three were winners. The crispy quail proved a wonderful appetizer. The two main courses were extraordinary, too. The venison stir-fried with hot peppers and accompanied by large chunks of zucchini had a startling, slightly gamy flavor, and the Zesty Salmon had a crusty surface and a sauce (sure enough) zesty with ginger, vinegar, and wood ears. The one blah novelty was the chicken and ham stirred with shreds of iceberg lettuce. One complaint: all the dishes were salty to a fault. Our high blood pressure makes us cry Uncle! (Galleria, 13350 Dallas Pkwy. Suite 3370. 934-9998. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10:30 pm, Sun noon-10 pm. Jackets required for dinner. All credit cards $$$)
DELI/LUNCH
City Market. On the mezzanine of the new LTV Center, City Market offers an airy space for a chic lunch with a view. The best things are the wonderfully varied salads, available individually or in combinations with each other or with soup. The meat salads include “wild tuna” (with cashews and other goodies), sausage and rata-touille. chicken (with a hefty dose of curry), and flank steak (with julienne red and green peppers). We could cheerfully gam pounds through carbohydrate overloading on the linguine salad (flavored with sesame oil for a strong Oriental influence) or the creamy new-potato salad. There are also deli sandwiches wrapped up in plastic, soups, and tempting-looking desserts. (200 LTV Center. 2001 Ross at Harwood. 979-2696. Mon-Fri 7 am-5 pm MC, V. $)
D REVISITS
Kuby’s. Oh, if all of Dallas’ restaurant favorites could wear with the years as well as this Old World delicatessen! Kuby’s Park Cities neighbors have long favored its excellent sandwiches-the rye bread on which they are built is worth taking out by the loaf. Schinkenwurst and other sausage special-lies are the usual fillings, and for accompaniments you can choose between German potato salad and memorable sauerkraut, If you have room after such heavy luncheon dishes, the desserts include a better-than-average Black Forest cake. (6601 Snider Plaza. 363-2231. Store hours: Mon-Sat 8 am-6 pm; Restaurant hours: Mon-Fri 8 am-5:30 pm. Sat 8 am-5 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V for purchases over $15; personal checks accepted. $)
Ms. Betty’s. The lady has moved her kitchen from the western edge of the Park Cities to the southern one (careful, the new Turtle Creek Village location is hard to spot). The simple fare of sandwiches (ham or chicker salad on luscious breads), soups, and salads is still ex ecuted with a lovely touch. You wonder sometimes though, how it can take so long to dish up these spare delicacies for so few tables. And the portions are decidedly dainty-you won’t become stout from eating at Ms Betty’s, even from the splendidly rich pies (served in half pieces). (185 Turtle Creek Village. 526-5084. Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm. Closed Sat & Sun. No credit cards: personal checks accepted. $)
Pacific Express. If you don’t get lost on the way you can have a tasty lunch here amid lots of shiny chrome and oversized abstract paintings. Salad combinations include large portions of such unusual fare as salads ’ made from wild rice or smoked chicken. Hefty sand-wiches feature lots of ham and cheese on coarse-textured bread The desserts are lavish, from peach cobbler to chocolate chip cheesecake. (Pacific Place . Bldg, 1910 Elm, Suite 103.969-7447. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 pm. Closed Sat & Sun. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)
FRENCH/CONTINENTAL
Café de France/French Bakery. The owners have sold their Piano shop and enlarged the newer Preston Road location, turning it into much more of a full-service cafe than before. The menu includes really fine hamburgers and ham sandwiches served on croissants or French rolls, and other good, simple fare like omelettes The daily specials include crusty, garlicky scampi and a lovely version of chicken cordon bleu. Desserts, of course, stare at you throughout the meal, daring you to resist a piece of lemon-mousse-anti-rum cake or a crunchy chocolate chip cookie. (17370 Preston Road, Suite 505. 248-2229. Mon-Thur 7:30 am-11 pm, Fri & Sat 7:30 am-11 pm. All credit cards; persona! checks accepted. $$)
D Café Royal. The new menu returns this place to the glory it enjoyed when it opened; if the renaissance keeps up, soon Cafe Royal will again be one of the very top restaurants in Dallas. We tried several dishes that juxtaposed luxurious ingredients. Salads that combined sautéed sweetbreads and medallions of lobster, or duck liver and tiny green beans, made first-rate beginnings. A thick, juicy (if slightly underseasoned) veal steak was garnished with large shrimp. And a pungent sauce made a grand unity of the combination of tender, meaty quail, hearty venison, and foie gras. The side dish of hand-whittled asparagus justifies the extra tab, and the dessert cart offers dark chocolate cakes and fruit tarts with flaky crusts. (Plaza of the Americas, 650 N Pearl. 747-7222. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner. Mon-Thur 6:30-10:30, Fri & Sal 6:30-11 Closed Sun. Reservations. Jackets , and ties required. All credit cards $$$$)
D Calluaud. Owner-chef Guy Calluaud is at his best with the magnificent dishes of the ancienne cuisine: feather-light lobster souffle, perfectly roasted quail and pigeon in a gamy giblet sauce, rack of lamb encrusted with a coating of breadcrumbs and parsley. He can also turn a nouvelle stand-ard like a feuilletée of asparagus into something richer and heavier by adding a soupcon of foie gras. On our last visit we also discovered some interesting salads, especially one of beautifully cooked artichoke bottoms and avocado. Desserts have always been a treat here; we enjoyed both the chocolate soufflé and the delicate apple tart. (2619 McKinney. 823-5380 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sal seatings at 7& 9:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. Jackets and ties required. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$$)
D Chez Gerard. If we had to name one Dallas restaurant that seems most genuinely to reflect the tastes of France, it would be Chez Gerard. Some of the dishes it offers might well be considered old-fashioned in the old country, but even in France getting back to culinary roots is in vogue Where else in Dallas, after all, can you find choucroute garnie – the French version of sauerkraut, served up with two kinds of sausage and two kinds of ham? Or rognons de veau-chunks of veal kidney stewed with bacon and mushrooms? These hearty dishes make us forgive the eminently forgettable first courses (sautéed shrimp, tough in a characterless sauce, and strong-tasting, chewy mussels) and the undistinguished house wine. The desserts helped immensely, too, especially the light-as-a-feather floating island. (4444 McKinney. 523-6865. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mori-Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. Lunch $$, dinner $$$)
D Chez Philippe. We were not fond of either appetizer special we tried on our last visit (mussels out of their shells and large frog’s legs in a green peppercorn sauce), but there is always much to enjoy at this elegantly appointed restaurant. Thick pieces o1 veal garnished with plum sauces were heavenly, but the new treatment of lobster (with Calvados and saffron) is not as striking as the previous one. The little touches like salads, vegetable garnishes, and sorbets continue to sparkle Desserts, including marvelous souffles and tarts, have much improved. Chez Philippe these days doesn’t always live up to the high standards of its departed chef, but it is still a place to be reckoned with. (5027 W Lovers Lane. 353-9444. Tue-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Closed Sun & Mon. All credit cards. $$$$)
D The French Room. The ornate splendor here evokes diplomatic debates that would be worthy of Versailles. Is the Pithivier of snails in its puff pastry crown and its chive sauce the king of the appetizers, or does that title go to the special of toothsome mussels and oysters in a tureen of broth? Should we stick to a simple salad {say. of beets with watercress and endive) or hold out for one of the complex creations with smoked salmon and the like? We agreed that the beef tenderloin topped with a mixture of marrow, breadcrumbs, and garlic, swimming in a winy sauce perfumed with thyme, could only be matched by the lordly lobster (worth every penny of its fabulous price). So we celebrated the truce with the feuilleteé of raspberries and a lemon tart topped with golden meringue. (Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Mon-Sat 6 10.30. Reservations. Jackets and ties required. Alt credit cards. $$$)
The Garden Court. As the remodeling of this stately old hotel progresses, the Garden Court becomes a more charming place to dine, with its high ceilings and its old-fashioned ambience. Sunday brunch is an especially pleasant time to try it. Complimentary mimosas or glasses of champagne (or fresh-squeezed juice for teetotalers) set off a feast that includes clams and crab claws alongside the usual oysters and shrimp. Devotees of the eggs can choose between made-to-order omelettes or eggs Benedict. . or take both. The beef roast is, for a happy change, a standing rib, and there are delicious alternatives like stir-fried chicken with lots of vegetables, broadcasting the odor of sesame oil. The various salads and the fruit table are lavish (when was the last time anybody offered you all the raspberries you could eat?); the desserts, though lovely, prove a bit of an anticlimax. (Melrose Hotel, 3015 Oaklawn. 521-5151 Breakfast: daily 6:30-11; Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Mon-Thur 6:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 6:30-11; Sun brunch: 11-2. All credit cards $$$)
Harpers. This penthouse restaurant, with a lovely view of the city, suffers somewhat from being treated almost as an adjunct of its bar. We don’t think that a cocktail hour butfet or a performing band adds much to the tone of an expensive restaurant. But the mostly classic food coming out of the kitchen can be surprisingly impressive. Our main courses-veal medallions in a green peppercorn sauce and Colorado lamb chops-were the best things, the veal tender and white, the lamb racy in its coating of rosemary and accompanying Choron sauce. The shrimp appetizer was a bit strange – its accompanying julienne of lime shocked us with its sweetness But, cliché or not, the final chocolate mousse was appealingly dense and rich. After dinner, try a little cheek-to-cheek dancing. (Hilton Inn, 5600 N Central Expwy at Mockingbird. 823-9180 Tue-Thur 6-10 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. MC, V, AE. $$$.)
D Jennivine. Over the years, Jennivine has increasingly lived up to its claim to be a wine bar as well as a restaurant by offering a larger selection of wines by the glass. We like to sample them to the accompaniment of some cheese and the rich, gamy paté maison (which we like better than either the pate de campagne or the salmon paté). As for the main courses, our salmon was delicately cooked, with a mustard sauce almost too tame for the name A more robust mushroom sauce topped tender scallops of veal, and the fan of accompanying vegetables set them off nicely. About the only dish around here that smacks of England (the declared ethnic origin of the place) is the English trifle, an unusual dessert for Dallas. (3605 McKinney. 528-6010. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner Mon-Thur 6-10,Fri & Sat 6-10:30, Closed Sun. AII credit cards.)
L’Ancestral. Very like a country French inn in its food and atmosphere, L’Ancestral offers good basic dishes like vegetable soup or onion tart as appetizers. An interesting entree is the sweetbreads with mushrooms, in a sauce lightly touched with curry. Other main courses can be dull, like lamb chops accompanied by pommes frites or a slightly fishy fillet of Dover sole. The chocolate truffle cake is very dark and not very sweet (you have to be careful not to breathe in the rich dusting of cocoa powder), but our favorite dessert is the ile flottante – a puff of meringue floating on delicate cus-iard. (5631 Alta. 826-0006. Tue-Sun 6:30 pm-midnight. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$$)
La Bonne Auberge. Our most recent visit didn’t quite confirm the high opinion we had on first acquaintance with this mostly seafood, mostly French place. Overcooked clams, salmon too tart in its lime marinade, and watery paella all disappointed us. A swordfish steak was broiled correctly, but its sauce seemed blah. Ironically, the best dish we tried had nothing to do with the sea-the pepper steak. Desserts are also better than average, especially the gooey concoction of fruit and sauce called the puits d’amour. (6306 Greenville. 692-6920. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Closed Sun. MC,V, AS, DC. $$$)
La Touraine. This is the prettiest of Dallas’ new French bistros with its panelled walls and mirrors and the central West End location cant be beat. It can also offer first-rate (are: smoky-tasting coo au vin, with a rich, winy sauce, or a subtle crème caramel. A1 lunchtime there is not much choice among appetizers for those who want to make this the big meal of the day. but there is a selection of French sandwiches and other lighter dishes for the nibblers among us. (1701 N Market. 749-0080. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri-Sun 5:30-10:30. All credit cards. $$-$$$.)
D REVISITS
D L’Ambiance. Just when we feared that this pleasant place (occupying a former filling station, no less) was settling into premature middle age, it trotted out a lew new dishes-and they are as good as the old ones. The mussels appetizer at L’Ambiance has always been an extremely generous portion; on our last visit the crustaceans were newly set out on a plate and embellished with a beurre blanc, but there still seemed to be dozens and dozens of them. Another fresh treatment brought forth shrimp in a delicate (and not too spicy) jalaperio sauce. As always, the salads were among the best in the city. And we couldn’t bear to limit ourselves to one dessert apiece- if we had contented ourselves with the two fabulous versions of chocolate cake, we would have had to forgo the floating island, one of our favorite desserts in the city. (2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner; Mon-Sat 6-10. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
Le Marmiton. We cant quite figure why someone would go to the trouble and expense of creating such a pleasant restaurant environment and stick it away on a block of lowest Greenville, but inside Le Marmiton boasts delicate crystal and good china, fresh linens, and fresh flowers. The food, though, is perplexing. There are enough really successful dishes to show seriousness in the kitchen; among the appetizers alone, the sautéed softshell crabs heaped with toasted almonds and the seafood sausage (grilled in its casing) are outstanding. But there are problems. The fish in three sauces boasted well-cooked scallops, sole, and swordfish, but the sauces all lacked distinction. Perhaps the tastiest dish we tried was a daily special of lamb in a marvelously garlicky herb sauce – but leg of lamb does not take well to being sliced and cooked precemeal (the individual muscles draw up and toughen), so the texture of the dish was not as successful as the taste. (1920 Greenville. 821-6250. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2: dinner Mon-Fri 6-10:30, Sat 6-11. All credit cards. $$-$$$)
Les Saisons. This beautiful French bistro is tucked away in Turtle Creek Village and is well known for being one of the most popular spots for a “power lunch” in Dallas. On our las! visit, however, the food and service lacked some of the polish we’ve grown accustomed to expect. We were first seated at a wobbly table that the waiter unsuccessfully tried to fix with a rolled table napkin. Despite the bad start, the Brie soup with its rich, creamy flavor impressed us. The special of the day was grilled swordfish, but the consistency of the fillet was mushy rather than flaky. The popular seafood salad was filled with crispy lettuce and very fresh shrimp, crab, and avocados. As a final note, the quality of the desserts seems to be more consistent than the entrees -don’t miss the chocolate mousse cake. (165 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 528-1102 Lunch: daily 11:30-3:30; dinner: Sun-Fri 5:30-10:30, Sat 5:30-11:30 Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
The Renaissance. We hardly had had time to mourn the passing of one of our favorite restaurants, Jean Claude, when this newcomer – with blue fabric on the walls in place of older paisley-opened in the same space. The Renaissance is owned by the proprietor of Alessio’s-we suppose we have 10 call it Continental, with Italian overtones. There is no pasta listed on the menu, for instance, though we did enjoy an appetizer special of the day consisting of homemade pasta with mussels (still in their shells) tossed with a delicate tomato-based sauce. The menu boasts a lot of interesting appetizers like snails in a rich melange of chopped fresh vegetables, a seafood terrine with delicate pieces of shrimp, and a surprisingly tasty chicken gumbo. Among the main courses, we were taken with nicely pink lamb chops, accompanied by sensationally herby eggplant and zucchini, and fresh sprigs of rosemary perfumed a moist swordfish steak. (2404 Cedar Springs. 871-0818. Mon 6 pm-10 pm, Tue-Sat 6 pm-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$)
D REVISITS
Pyramid Restaurant. On our last visit to this doyenne of Dallas restaurants in the Fairmont Hotel, the table d’hote menu looked so tempting we ordered exclusively from it. The crawfish and let-tuce salad disappointed us by excessive subtlety -there just wasn’t a sufficiently assertive flavor-and the hot duckling pate en croute turned out to have the texture of a pot pie. Sad to say, the potage santé lasted all too healthy – we’d be skinny as a rail if that was all we had to eat. But the “Grand Trio” of seafood-red Spanish shrimp, scallops and a patty of crab meat in a red wine butter sauce-praved by far the most memorable of the dishes we sampled. Some things have improved at the Pyramid – the sorbet is no longer alarmingly sweet, the harp is easier to live with than the former, noisy grand piano, and the sommelier rarely sings arias as he climbs the ladder to fetch the wine. But the cuisine at this local legend is not in its prime. (Fairmont Hotel, 1717 N Akard. 720-2020 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner daily 6-10- All credit cards. $$$)
St. Martin’s. The main commodity at this intimate, romantic spot is atmosphere. The food, although competently done, is secondary. For openers, the escargots Bouchée. with snails placed precariously atop a pastry doused with a white wine and garlic sauce, had so much garlic that the otherwise delicious snails proved inedible. The house special, a delicious tenderloin served in a tasty bordelaise sauce, was degraded by scallops past their peak of freshness. The bright spot was the wine list, offering a large selection at very reasonable prices. There were also many good paté board offerings. (3020 Greenville. 826-0940. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner. Sun-Thur 5-11, Fri& Sat 5-12:30; Sun brunch: 11-3. All credit cards. $$$)
D REVISITS
Zanzibar. This Lower Greenville winebar cum restaurant may be the hippest place in town where you can actually find good food. If the youth and the sartorial exuberance of the clientele don’t faze you. try one of the long list of wines available by the glass and order off the blackboard of daily specialties, which has provided better results than the regular menu for us. The specials of the day in the pasta and fish categories are usually winners- we especially enjoyed the linguine with clams and bits of tuna From the menu, the meat and cheese plate proved pedestrian, with no more adventuresome choices than roast beef and Swiss cheese The house version of chicken tacos, with grilled fowl in rather soggy flour tortillas, did not ex-flavors of cheesecake, though jobbed in from a good supplier. (2912 Greenville 828-2250. Mon 6 pm-1 am, Tue-Sat 11:30 arn-2 am. Sun 10:30 am-midnight; Sun brunch: 10:30-3. MC, V, AE. $$)
GERMAN/EASTERN EUROPEAN
Belvedere. Almost everything the chef of this Swiss-Austnan restaurant attempts he accomplishes well, whether it’s perfectly preparing meaty, tender scallops, grilling a T-bone of veal, or assembling a rich and col-orful veal Oscar. Some pre-meal choices may be bet-ter than others, however the plates of smoked salmon and veal we ordered were tasty but loo overwhelming to be served as appetizers. A homemade soup or a house salad dressed with generous amounts of blue cheese is a better bet The look of Belvedere has im-proved substantially since our last visit. (Crestpark Hotel, 4242 Lomo Alto. 528-6510 Lunch. Tue-Sat 11:30-2, dinner: Tue-Sat 6-10:30. Sun 6-9; Sun brunch: n-2 30 Closed Mon All credit cards. $$$)
Bohemia. The fad of “light” cooking has not invaded this little corner of Czechoslovakia, with its lace curtains and photos of Prague on the walls. Everything served here is substantial, in proper Middle European fashion The choice of appelizers (beyond the salad and soup that come with an entrée) is narrow; we found the beef tartare surprisingly tasty in spite of its mushy, almost blended consistency. but wondered whether the liver pale had actually been made on the premises The Czech version of sauerbraten was sweeter and less sour than most of its German cousins – the sauce delicately spicy but the meat not quite tender. Roast duck had a gloriously crisp skin but dry. overcooked flesh. Both came with bread dumplings even heavier than the liver dumplings that had graced our soup. After all this nourishment, if you haven’t room for strudel, you might try the berries glace-not exactly slimming with its combination of strawberries, ice cream, meringues, liqueur, and whipped cream, but refreshingly tart and sweet. (2810 N Henderson. 826-6209. Sun &Tue-Thur 5:30-9 pm. Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30 pm. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$)
Cafe Kashtan. After closing for a few months, Dallas’ only Ukrainian restaurant has reopened. The worst service problems seem to have been solved, though the policy of cooking everything from scratch still makes for a slowish pace – leave plenty of time for an evening visit. For starters, the best things here remain the soups (like the tart, cold green schi or the salanka, with beef, sausage, and vegetables) or the delicious beet, potato, and sauerkraut salads. The chicken tabaka (half a bird flattened and sautéed) and the beef stroganoff are good choices among the main dishes, accompanied by well-dressed salads and nicely cooked potatoes, pasta, or rice Desserts change daily: the almond cake with raspberry sauce will satisfy any sweet tooth. At lunchtime a number of unusual and inexpensive specialties are available. (5365 Spring Valley Rd at Montfort. 991-9550 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11 Ctosed Sun. All credit cards. $$)
The Chimney. The warm atmosphere, delicious food, and attentive service here add up to an evening of pure pleasure. In the restaurant’s cozy setting, we found time to savor every bite of the buenderfleisch, a thin, air cured beef, before moving on to a simple salad topped with a tangy house dressing and fried onions. The veal cordon bleu, served with noodles and snow peas, was prepared to perfection So was the sole amandine, so lender it crumbled at the touch of a fork. The Austrian snowball, an uptown version of the icecream sundae, was so sinfully rich with chocolate that we didn’t think twice about downing at least 1,000 calories worth. (Willow Creek Shopping Center. 9739 N Central Expwy at Walnut Hill Lane 369-6466. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30 2; dinner Mon-Sat 6-10:.30. Closed Sun Reservations requested All credit cards $$$)
Lechner’s. Here, in a pleasant room tucked away in the labyrinthine lobby of the Regent Hotel, are the folks who bring you German specialties with a few Texas favorites. Werner Lechner, the personable chef, is accomplished in both old-country dishes like wiener schnitzel and schnitzel a la Holstein and in flown-in fish specialties from the seafood markets of Boston, where Lechner has lived An unusual shrimp scampi appetizer smothered in red and green peppers was good, but we expected more than two shrimp tor $7 95 The entrées, however, were superb – veal cordon bleu was fresh, with a delicate balance of its three tastes. Boston scrod was well-seasoned, nicely browned, and generously portioned We topped oft our meal with what was touted to be the house specialty – apple strudel – which was tasty but rather skimpy on the apples for our Americanized tastes. (The Regent Hotel, 1241 W Mockingbird. 630-7000 Mon-Sat5-10:30pm Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)
Rheingauer-Roemer. The rear courtyard of European Crossroads can seem pretty forlorn, but it is lovely to look at from this little German restaurant-the contrived-looking brick pavement and fountains become more convincing once you have downed a glass or two of real Pilsner from Czechoslovakia Dallas is short on places that serve this son of earthy German food, so the minor shortcomings don’t matter much at all (The wiener schnitzel is made from thick, unpound-ed cuts of veal, and the sauerbraten lacks a certain sparkle.) By far the most memorable of the desserts is the only one made on the premises, the apple cake. (European Crossroads 352-1175. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-3; dinner: Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6 midnight. MC, V, AE. DC. $$)D Rolf’s. This time we decided to explore a few of the byways of the menu of this fine establishment, but we were not always reward-ed by our daring. The herring salad was both too sweet and too sour, and neither the crab meal in our ap-petizer nor that served with our veal entree tasted fresh The schnitzel Holsteir (a veal cutlet with a fried egg on top and accompanied with anchovies and capers) was crisp and greaseless but undersalted Both chocolate desserts-the Sachertorte and the mousse cake-were pleasant but lacked that richness that attracts the loyalty of diehard chocolate tans. We’ll continue to go back to Rolf’s with plenty of anticipation- but for the dishes like the Sauerbraten and the apple cake that have never disappointed us. (Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy, Suite 11? 696-1933 Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 530-1030, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
GOURMET CARRYOUT
Marty’s. Marty’s deserves its reputation as Dallas’ premier spot for buying fancy foods and wines. II is always a treat to be tempted by the endless variety of foods here, from the fresh fruits to the most esoteric ar-ray of cheeses in town (we indulged in Boursault, a creamy French cheese hard to find elsewhere in town). The establishment also makes its own delicious breads and a bewildering assortment of pates (we tried wild boar with chestnuts and pheasant with pears) The selections of dips (we loved the one of green chiles), salads (the ziti was special), and desserts (the rich chocolate cake satisfied our craving tor a week} are ex-emplary Only the take-home entrees sometimes disap-point: the moussaka was fine, probably better than that of any Greek restaurant in town, but the game hen in an orange sauce lacked flavor. (3316 Oak Lawn. 536-4070. Mon-Sat 10 am-6.30 pm. Closed Sun Aft credit cards, Marty’s charge. $$$)
Rich Chicks. Theresa Alexander, whose previous ventures include the Stoneleigh P and The Lounge in the Inwood Theatre, had an idea for a new sort of fast-food place -one that would look classy and serve healthier food than the usual places As you might guess. Rich Chicks serves Rich Chicks (and a lew complements) to rich chicks. The chickens are butterflied and coated with spices (fennel predominates), then slowly roasted and carved to order The accompaniments consist of an uncooked tomato sauce (rather like a thick gaz-pacho), pita bread, and a lovely lettuce-less Greek salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, and feta cheese The food all tastes fine – the chicken is juicy (except for the drumsticks, which tend to get overcooked and stringy) and is good either hot or cold. You can also call in your order ahead of time for taster service (North-west Corner of Preston Royal Shopping Center. next to the Post Office 691-7424. Daily 11 am-9 pm. $)
GREEK/MIDDLE EASTERN
Augustus. After a rough start, this Greek/Continental restaurant in Addison is making a name tor itself. Two visits produced two outstanding meals. The menu features a large selection of fresh seafood, including shrimp sautéed in garlic butter and some of the tastiest broiled red snapper we’ve ever been served. But don’t forget the Greek food! The specials of the day have proved exceptional, especially the tender marinated lamb chops The traditional moussaka was too timidly spiced for our taste. The atmosphere is pleasant, and . the service is exceptional, if not a little too attentive. The only real disappointment was the lack of traditional Greek wines. Don’t miss the desserts, particularly the nutty, sweet baklava. (15375 Addison Road. 239-8105. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2 30: dinner Mon-Sat 5-11 Sun 5-10. All credit cards. $$$)
Gulf Coast Oyster Company. Dallas now has lots of good seafood houses, but only one Greek seafood place This narrow, bustling restaurant serves the Greek caviar dip. taramousalata, before all entrees and offers a Greek appetizer platter, loo (with crunchy fried squid and shrimp). Main dishes include skewered chicken and shrimp, grilled Greek-style, and shrimp cooked with feta cheese in a (too sweet) tomato sauce The fish of the day can be even better-the sweet, delicate brill (a Mediterranean fish something like a flounder) was one of our favorite fish dishes ever. The baklava for dessert, though, proved slightly stale. (Corner Shopping Center, 8041 Walnut Hill Lane. 361-1922 Lunch- Mon-Fri 11-3; dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri 5-11, Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. MC, V,AE. $$-$$$)
Mr. Shishkabab. Finally Dallas has a really good Middle Eastern restaurant again complete with belly-dancer, and we hope the hard-to-find location won’t jinx it. Mr Shishkabab offers mostly the basics like the wonderful Middle Eastern dip made from chickpeas, olive oil. lemon juice, garlic, and sesame paste called hummus, The other best appetizer is the tabouleh, that refreshing salad of minced parsley, bulgur wheat, and lemon juice Otherwise, save your appetite for the main courses, because they come garnished with some of the best tidbits that can be ordered as appetizets-felafel and stuffed kibbeh. Both the kebabs 01 lamb and shrimp are delicious, and even a simple steak takes on an international flair here If the restaurant gets busy you may find the kitchen and the well-meaning service slow. (9454 Marsh Lane. just north of Northwest Highway 350-9314. Daily 11 am-3 pm and 5:30 pm-11 pm. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)
INDIAN
D India Palace. This new Indian restaurant has a larger menu than other spots, a slightly fancier decor, and slightly higher prices. We think it is worth the extra cost to sample the new dishes and have the extra comfort. If you are feling adventure some, try the red snapper (slutted with finely chopped fruits and vegetables and piquantly sauced) or the lamb shahi korma. The tandoori dishes (meats roasted in the Indian barbecue oven, served with delicious bread called na’an) are perfect for the more cautious (13360 Preston. 392-0190. Lunch. Mon-Fri )1-2, Sat& Sun 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5 pm-10 pm, Fri & Sat 530 pm-10:30 pm. $$)
D Kebab ’n’ Kurry. If we were forced at gunpoint to name our favorite ethnic restaurant in Dallas, this would probably be it. We suspect that part of the secret lies in the comparatively limited menu. There are really only a few delights of North Indian cuisine offered, but they are done superlatively well, from the chicken korma (rich, creamy, and mild) to the shrimp in a tomatoey curry sauce. Paradoxically, you can find the rarest treasures here at the weekend lunch buffets. They offer such unusual delicacies as curried fresh black-eyed peas and lamb ribs (bony but magnificently sauced), for the ridiculously low price of $6.95 for all you can eat, including a dessert like the barely sweet rice pudding studded with chunks of fresh coconut. (401 N Central Expwy, Suite 300, Richardson, 231-5556; 2620 Walnut Hill Lane. 350-6466. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fir & Sat 5:30-10:30; brunch: Sat & Sun 11:30-2:30 All credit cards. $-$$)
Tanjore. During the week, you can find good North Indian food here (the kitchen can be slow to bring it out, but it’s worth waiting for) We are fond of the chicken tanjore (a version of chicken tandoori, but not made in the clay oven typical for that dish) and the cubes of fried homemade cheese (with something of the texture of tofu) cooked in a spicy spinach sauce. These are standard items in Indian restaurants in America, but at lunch on weekends you can get something really unusual here, dishes from South India There are rice cakes called idli and little savory fried doughnuts, curried lentils, and fresh coconut chutney. The dish most likely to appeal to Americans is the masala dosa, a thin crêpe of fermented dough cooked crisp and folded around a filling of curried potatoes. One of the nicest things about the South Indian dishes is that they are cheap enough to justify trying on an experimental basis. (Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center, 5409 Belt Line Rd. 960-0070 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 6-10; brunch: Sat & Sun 11:30-3. All credit cards. $-$$.)
ITALIAN
Adriano’s. This fashionable pizzeria in the Quadrangle, with its exposed metalwork and warehouse style ceiling, hides nothing- including its bad service. One waiter lor the whole place? The customers deserve better. But Gamberetti, a combination of shrimp, shallots, and chives, is a welcome departure from the typical pizza, heavy on the cheese and just the right size. The even bolder Salome, of capers, onions, and goat cheese, was sharp and satisfying The fettuc-cine Lumache, stuffed with escargots and bathed in white wine, is also a good choice (The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh, Suite 170. 871-2262. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10 30 Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-midnight. Sun 11:30-9. MC, V, AE. $$)
D REVISITS
Alessio’s. Crowded tables and a proprietor who seems to know half of the diners can lend this Italian bistro a clubby, if claustrophobic air. but the food usually puts Alessio’s in the top rank of Dallas Italian restaurants. The eggplant appetizer is like a miniature parmigiana. though less heavy, and the pasta with seafood brims with shrimp and scallops The tenderloin in a robust red wine sauce offers an unusual option for an Italian restaurant, but the butler and hazelnut topping on the fillet of sole makes an oily fish even oilier A refreshing dessert is the lemon ice served with sweet fresh raspberries even in the off season. (4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585. Tue-Sat 6-10:30 pm, Sun& Mon 6-10 pm. MC, V, AE. $$$)
Café Italia. As usual, we were stuffed when we left this tiny restaurant tucked away on Maple Avenue across the street from Elliot’s Hardware. The one thing we love about Cafe Italia is that there is no skimping on the garlic here – particularly on the crispy garlic bread. We were impressed with the creamy fettucine Alfredo sauce and the spicy linguine with white clam sauce. The special of the day was chicken romano, baked in light, buttery bread crumbs and covered with a creamy romano cheese sauce. Pasta and vegetables on the side weren’t especially memorable, and neither were the desserts. The cappuccino pie was bland, and the strawberries in whipped cream were limp – as though they’d been sliced too soon Despite the shortcomings, you can’t beat the place for its reasonable prices and excellent service (5000 Maple 521-0700 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2. dinner Mon-Thur 5 30-10. Fri & Sat 5:30-11 Closed Sun MC, V, AE, $$)
Ciao! This shrine to unusual pizzas sits on one of the gaudiest stretches of Cedar Springs- the view out the glass front is as entertaining as any floor show. Inside, the food is good, if not overwhelming. The famous spinach pizza, for instance, we found more odd than appealing; the combination of mounds of chopped greens with underdone strips of Italian bacon was not helped by a less than perfectly crisp crust- The moz-zarella {advertised as fresh) on a plainer pizza was rather rubbery We had no complaints about an al dente order of pasta topped with a pesto sauce with plenty of basil and garlic, but a daily special of a sautéed chicken breast was boring. (3921B Cedar Springs- 5210110. Mon-Sat 11 :30 am-midnight, Sun 3 pm-nvdnight. MC, V,AE. $$)
Da Piccolo. We thought the move to new larger quarters down the block- the old church once occupied by the bar of that name-might have restored some of the initial spark that once made this the favored Italian bistro in town, but a visit didn’t support this theory. Offhand service dished out a fishy-tasting scampi appetizer and pretty good tortellini (the best dish on this foray). Chicken scarpariello suffered from too strong a taste and too acid a balance, and veal Marsala lacked finesse. Dessert turned out to be an unprepossessing slice of cheesecake and a chocolate pastry brought in from La Madeleine bakery and still bearing its imprint. (4501 Cole. 521-1191. Lunch: Sun, Mon, Wed, Thur 11-2, dinner: Sun. Mon, Wed, Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. All credit cards. $$)
II Sorrento. With an elegant, serene atmosphere, courtly yet friendly service and food that doesn’t disappoint, II Sorrento satisfies. In this dimly lit dining room, decorated in an Italian piazza motif that might be a bit medieval for some tastes, we enjoyed appetizers of mushroom caps stuffed with crab meat and baked eggplant adorned with shrimp and clams The sword-fish steak was truly exemplary, although the veal entree we tried was a trifle tough. But the hard rolls-served non-stop – were irresistible, and the side dishes of fresh asparagus and lightly fried zucchini were pleasant accompaniments. Our chocolate mousse desserts were delicious (8616 Turtle Creek Blvd. 352-8759 Sun-Fri 5:30-11 pm, Sat 5:30 pm-midnight All credit cards. $$$)
Mario’s. Venetian glass and ruby-colored walls set the tone of elegance here. The food sometimes matches that standard, and sometimes doesn’t Our last visit was more down than up The cannelloni in a cream sauce was tasty, but the seafood in a hot sauce poured over in artichoke did not complement the vegetable’s taste We also suffered from a special of grilled redfish which had a harsh basil sauce, and a scallop of veal with shrimp had a dark sauce that seemed at odds with both main ingredients Our favorite dish this outing was a refreshing Grand Marnier mousse (135 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn 521-1135. Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Jackets required. All credit cards. $$$)
Pizzeria Uno. The best things about this place for Chicago-style deep-dish pizzas are the pies themselves; buttery crusted, with inch-deep heaps of sausages, cheeses, and vegetables. Some come with little or no tomato sauce- the seafood pizza uses lots of garlic for flavor instead There are some pretty good side dishes, but the best accompaniments are libations from the bar that forms the heart of the restaurant. The main drawbacks at Pizzeria Uno are the noise and the service, which we have found to be slow and spacey even at off hours, let alone at mealtimes, when the place is usually packed. (4002 Belt One. Addison. 991-8181. Mon & Tue 11 am-10:30 pm, Wed & Thur 11 am 11 30 pm, Fri 11-12:30, Sat noon-12:30, Sun noon-10-30. MC, V, AE. $$)
D Ristorante Savino. For consistency and authenticity, this is probably Dallas’ finest Italian restaurant. Our latest visit gave us opportunities to taste a splendid version of vitello tuna (cold, thin slices of braised veal topped with a sauce flavored with tuna and lemon and crowned with capers) The cro-chette- small croquettes made of fried stuffed crêpes-were less exciting, but both pasta courses were cooked magnificently: cavatelli (pasta shells in a sauce strongly flavored with tomato, garlic, and cheese) and angel hair pasta in a lobster sauce. Our meat dishes- delicate scallops of veal in a wild mushroom sauce and large shrimp in a golden sauce smelling of saffron-were exemplary Desserts have improved steadily as Ristorante Savino has matured; the profiteroles are worth every calorie. (2929 N Henderson 826-7804 Sun-Thur 6-10.30, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. All credit cards. $$$)
Ristorante Vincenzo. When this Italian restaurant opened last fall, it was heralded as the jewel in the crown of a rejuvenated Quadrangle Even though the crown remains a ruin-in-restoration and the jewel is at times unpolished. Ristorante Vincenzo endures If we have caveats, they apply only to the meal’s opening rounds the antipasto is perfunctory, the minestrone is rather bland, the Caesar salad is short on fanfare and long on croutons. An order of fried cheese, however, was quite spectacular – served in an abundant mound, half sauced with tomato, the other in a lemon caper concoction. Our entrees were outstanding – a perfectly charred veal steak, which was thick and properly juicy, and scampi aligned like a brochette with moist morsels of onion and green pepper. Vegetables del giorno-adeep-fried cauliflower and tender julienne strips of zucchini-were perfect accompaniments. Equally im-pressive were the authentic cannoli and a rich and ex-uberant cappuccino pie. (The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh, Suite 165. 87)8898 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5 30-10. Fri & Sat 5:30-11 Closed Sun. All credit cards $$$)Ruggeri’s. This is in the location the ill-fated restaurants Mexico and Palermo formerly occupied, but Ruggeri’s has a new, much more formal look – and, what’s more important, much better cooking. The cioppino was as good as any we have tasted, with a rich (but not too ag-gressive) tomato broth in which shrimp, scallops, mussels, and other shellfish swam The scampi livor-naise had plenty of garlic and a nice texture, and the calamari fritti came to the table crisp and hot. The lasagne verde was layered with beef, sausage, and cheese, and a delicious besciamella sauce covered one end The tournedos miranda were fork tender and the sauce had plenty of character. (2911 Routh. 871-7377. Lunch. Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. dinner Sun-Thur6-11:30, Fri & Sat 6 pm-midnight. All credit cards. $$$)
Sfizi. This West End Italian place has really picked up steam since our last visit, when it was almost empty. We even had an unexpected twenty-minute wait for our table. The menu is brief, but supplemented by a chalk-board specials menu, which the waiter brings to your table and explains thoroughly. The fried calamari was a pleasant appetizer, but the shrimp champignon was perhaps a little loo ambitious. For our entrées, the chicken marsala was delicious as was the eggplant The tortellini was also tasty but not served hot enough. The cannoli made an adequate dessert The minor defi-ciencies in 1he kitchen were compensated for by the efficient and pleasant service; it you like concrete-floor-and-neon-light ambience, you should have a pleasant experience at Sfizi. (1718 Market 698-9390. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri 11 am-2 am,Sat 5 pm-2 am,Sun 5-11 pm.All credit cards. $$)
JAPANESE/KOREAN
Korea House. As always, we were welcomed hospi-tably by the Korean ladies who run this place. This time we skipped the appetizers and went right to a selection of main dishes and were rewarded by a satisfying meal We always enjoy kalbi gui, Korean barbecued ribs that are more like the Mexican version, agujas, than their American counterpart. Tiny shrimp stir-fried with a myriad of vegetables and little chunks of fried chicken coated with a spicy sauce were complemented by the delightful Korean cold vegetables: vinegary cucumbers, bean sprouts touched with sesame, and, of course kimchee, the Korean five-alarm spiced cabbage. (Promenade Center, Coit at Bell Line. Suite 610. Richardson 231-1379. Daily 11 am-10:30 pm. MC. V, AE. $$)
Mr. Sushi. Now that it has expanded in size, Mr. Sushi is more than ever Dallas’ most en|oyable Japanese restaurant. If you’ve picked up the taste for raw fish – we read somewhere that 7 percent of Americans have taken the plunge, and our four-year-old is one of them – the sushi bar enables you to pick and choose among the juiciest morsels Yellowfin tuna is a consistent winner, and this time we found an interesting concoction of scallops in a mayonnaise-like dressing wrapped up in seaweed II you prefer to sit at a table, the service is extremely polite You can choose among appetizers like kara age chicken (plump chunks deep-fried- McNuggets were never like this) or tofu steak (fried bean curd sitting atop a gingery sauce). The sukiyaki. though, we found disappointing. (The Quorum, 4860 Belt Line, Addison. 385-0168. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11.30-2, dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Sun 5:30-10. All credit cards $$)
MEXICAN
Café Cancun. We found the atmosphere of this Mexico City-style restaurant quite airy, a pleasant departure from the typical close seating in most Mexican restaurants. We also found the service exceptional. Our wader was courteous and helpful, our glasses were filled often, and a new basket of chips was on our table before we finished the first But we saw no marked improvement in the cuisine since our last visit The chicken nachos, made with black beans. Chihuahua cheese, chicken, guacamole, sour cream, and |ala-penos. were average, as were the fajitas and sour cream chicken enchiladas. We remember when the food here was better. (4131 Lomo Alto, 559-4011; Caruth Plaza. Park Lane at Central Expwy, 369-3712. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 prn. Fri 11-11. Sat 5-11 pm, Sun noon-10 pm, at Lomo Alto location; Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-n, Sun noon-10 pm at Caruth Plaza location. MC, V, AE. $$)
Café Rincón. We had heard some complaints about both food and service here, but when we returned to check them out all seemed well as before. Our server was not as cordial as some we have had here, but was efficient And the food was delightful Flautitas (crisp tortilla;; rolled around spicy chicken meat) made a great starter. The red snapper was touted as very fresh, and so it was, with its garlicky sauce. The carne asada a la tampiquena boasted tenderloin that melted in the mouth alongside searing-hot peppers, an enchilada, and a tiny cilantro-laden pot of beans. Flan for dessert was the only unexciting dish we sampled. (2818 Harry Hines. 871-7280. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-3; dinner. Mon-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5 pm-midnight. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)
Cantina Laredo. How many places catering to gringos serve the homey Mexican dish of chicken and rice, ar-roz con pollo? (We have had more exciting versions, in truth, but hardly any versions a! all are available in Dallas) Even enchiladas (chicken), tacos (made with machaco, slivered meat), and tamales are authentic here. And the search for definitive fajitas and other grilled specialties ends right on this doorstep: the mes-quite taste balances perfectly against the marination, and the accompanying grilled scallions, frijoles al charro, guacamole, and flour tortillas are all outstanding too. The churros (long Mexican cinnamon-dusted fritters) are to die for, and the flan is also outstanding. We are also impressed with the smooth and courteous service. (4546 Belt Line, Addison. 458-0962. Sun-Thur 11-11.Fri &Sat 11 am-midnight All credit cards. $-$$)
Chiquita. We’d say that Chiquita – with its festive, oversized paper flowers everywhere- never changes, only the new specialties” that are periodically rotated on and off the menu constantly add variety. This lime we tried the appetizer of rajas con crema – tender strips of chile poblano, tiny pieces of diced zucchini, cheese, and cream all wrapped up in flour tortillas-and found them soothing and satisfying The other dish new to us was the filete encebollada, strips of beef sautéed with onions and peppers. We also liked the “pipos” (tiny flautas filled with shrimp). The chicken breast in a molé sauce, though, was a tad disappointing-the sauce lacked the complexity and richness that this Mexican classic can have. (3810 Congress. 521-0721. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 11 30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)
Chito’s. If you are looking for authentic Tex-Mex in a down-to-earth setting and Herrera has a line down the , block, you might drive on down the street to Chito’s. ’ This place may actually be more authentic – it doesn’t feel so self-consciously picturesque, and you will probably encounter a larger percentage of Mexican clientele. The standard Tex-Mex items are well done-tacos and enchiladas are particularly appealing. The menu doesn’t go in for many newfangled fancy items, either; even the now standard fajitas are strictly down-home. The meat is grilled instead of charcoal-broiled. it hasn’t been marinated to death, and it doesn’t come on a sizzling platter. But the dish, like the restaurant that serves it, is pleasant in its unassuming way. (4447 Maple, 526-9027; 3437 Walnut Hill, 351-9554. Sun-Tue & Thur .9 am-9 pm, Fri & Sat 9 am-3 am. Closed Wed, at Maple location; Tue-Sun 9 am-10 pm. Closed Mon. at Walnut Hill location MC, V. $)
Garza Blanca. You may recognize the name as that of a famous resort in Puerto Vallarta. The ceviche is spectacularly fresh and tasty, with a strong taste of lime, olive oil, and especially capers. The chiles rellenos are a good, light-textured version, but perhaps the best choices for main dishes here are the charcoal grilled specialties, which are oddly identified by the sounds that the animals being served made when they were alive (beef is Moo, frog’s legs Ribbet Ribbet-combination dinners make a whole barnyard of sounds) The meats are deliciously seasoned with vinegar, oil, and oregano before cooking, and the butterfly pork chop and the fajita steak are particularly tender and moist. The mango ice cream topped with perfectly ripe slices of fresh mangos is an exciting dessert, with Mexican anise and cinnamon cookies served on the side Return visits have sadly revealed that service declines and noise abounds on a busy evening here. (2508 Maple. 871 0530. Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11 -11. Sun 11 am-9 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Genaro’s. This cool, tropical oasis would be great-for people-watching, sipping margaritas, dancing on Sunday nights-even if no food were available. But it is, and most of it’s quite reliable. On recent visits we’ve tried ceviche, seafood nachos. flautas, the excellent torta del mar, and basic Tex-Mex, and come away smiling every time. (5815 Live Oak at Skillman, 827-9590. Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-11:30 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Javier’s. This is Yankee Mexican food pricey, prettier than a combination plate, peculiar to natives weaned on crispy tacos. Things like red snapper mojo de ajo (succulent fillets dripping with buttery garlic, lime juice, and white wine) and filete pimienta (mouth-watering fenderloin in a piquant black pepper sauce) don’t crop up too often at Rosita’s. But we are blessed that they do appear with consistency at Javier’s, surely one of the most enjoyable restaurants in Dallas. Oh, and don’t miss the appetizer of cheese panela (grilled Monterey Jack with Mexican sausage) flamed a tavola, or the chocolate mousse laced with Tia Maria and walnuts. (4912 Cole. 521-4211 Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30 pm, Fri & Sal 5:30-11.30 pm All credit cards $$$)
La Botica. The mishmash of Dallasites who have found La Botica (it’s nearly hidden on HaskelI Avenue about a mile east of Central) must like it for the same reasons we do: it’s casual, fairly quiet, and steeped in family-run friendliness. The food – Mexican staples with a hefty addition of beef dishes-is fine but rarely exciting. Particularly good, the tangy enchiladas verdes, the simple tacos, and the spicy chicken soup Our otherwise happy visits met with two disappointments: the ho-hum and smallish came asada and La Botica’s tendency to be out of things we want to order. (1900 N Haskell. 824-2005. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Sat5-10. Closed Sun MC, V, AE. $$)
D REVISITS
Guadalajara. This classic hole-in-the-wall has moved a few blocks down Ross Avenue-and a few steps upscale. The space is now bright and airy, the service less abrasive, but the food does not seem to live up to our memories The menu is certainly comprehensive, with everything from menudo (the traditional Mexican hangover cure of pepper-flecked tripe and hominy soup) to Tex-Mex combos. Fajitas can be gristly, red snapper, though interesting, cooked Campeche style (with a stuffing of oysters and shrimp and a sprig of cilan-tro} seemed slightly past the peak of freshness. We cant report on the enchiladas-the combination plate that was supposed to include them came with three tamales instead. (4405 Ross. 823-9340. Mon-Fri 11 am-3:30 am. Sat & Sun 9 am-4 am All credit cards- $$)
Mario’s Chiquita. A return visit confirmed that Mario Leal is doing a good job of reproducing the high qualify of food and service found in his older restaurants at this one way up in Piano. The new specialties are available even at lunch, and include beef tips sautéed with onions and gently seasoned. The kitchen turns out several excellent renditions of shrimp-our favorite is a ring of large ones cooked with abundant garlic, served with a classic version of Mexican rice. If you don’t have time or room to order dessert from the menu, be sure to pick up one of the unique cinnamon-flavored pralines. (221 W Parker, Suite 400, Piano. 423-2977. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30-11. Closed Sun. MC,V, AE. $$)
D REVISITS
Mario & Alberto. The standards of Mario Leal’s second restaurant don’t seem to have suffered with the opening of a third one-this popular North Dallas spot seemed as fine (and as busy) as ever. To start with, a tart ceviche or tortilla soup are good choices. Among the main courses, the filete de la casa (tenderloin strongly flavored with garlic, accompanied by lightly fried potato slices) remains a favorite. Those who crave fajitas will find a relatively restrained version here-a manageably modest serving, and no sizzling fireworks The Tex-Mex plates continue to run way behind the specialties in excellence. Coconut or cinnamon ice cream makes a refreshing dessert. (Preston Valley Shopping Center, LBJ Frwy at Preston, Suite 425. 980-7296. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-11:30 pm. Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun Drinks with $5.50 membership charge. MC, V, AE. $$)
Pepe’s. Next door to the Routh Street Cafe sits this unpretentious Mexican spot. Pepe’s probably does old-fashioned Tex-Mex as well as any place in Dallas. The beet tacos. for instance, come in a light, fresh-tasting shell. Enchiladas are dependable, too. Carne asada was made from tender beef, chiles rellenos from authentic poblano peppers (though the filling proved to be unexciting). (3011 Routh. 871-9445. Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm & 5:30-10 pm, Sat 10:30 am-10 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)
Ricardo’s. This is a Mexican restaurant in the new polished style- the colors are rose and plum, with only a few cacti around to give away the restaurant’s ethnic orientation. The menu is conventional but appealing We enjoyed the beef fajitas (neither overmarinated nor overcharred) and the broiled chicken breast, which had a pleasant flavor and a light melting of cheese on top. A few less frequently seen dishes like carne guisada (beef stewed with potatoes and green peppers) also are executed deftly. The conventional Tex-Mex plates are better than average. (17610 Midway. 931-5073. Mon-Sat 11 am-10pm, Sun 11 am-9 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Rio Grande Grill. North Greenville Avenue’s unique cross between a Yuppie bar and a Mexican restaurant has new management and a new menu, but much re-mams the same You still have (in a Back to the Future scenario) slender people playing backgammon at high tables And you still have pretty good food with an alarming tendency to be drowned in an excess of glop-py cheese and indiscriminately applied sauces One might expect appetizers like the Mexican pizza and Rio Grande Dip (layers of beans, guacamole, cheese, peppers, sour cream, olives, and so on) to be soupy messes, but chiles rellenos and basic combination plates should not be so overburdened with toppings. For those who can’t stand to order fajitas again, there are alternatives like chicken fingers. (5111 Greenville. 692-9777 Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-1 am. All credit cards $)
Rosita’s. Every neighborhood ought to have its Rosita’s-but in Dallas you mostly have to go out to Mexican-American neighborhoods to find good, solid Tex-Mex. (Don’t get the wrong idea, Rosita’s; we don’t want you to establish any branches elsewhere. That has been the downfall of too many wonderful Dallas sources of prime enchiladas.) Here you can get good nachos and tacos and even chiles rellenos. The fajitas were cooked to burned-tasting crisps on the sizzling platter on which they arrived, but the delightful sopapillas and flan afterwards made up for them. (4906 Maple. 521-4741; 5705 Southwest Green Oaks, Arlington. 572-1009. Mon-Thur 7 am-10 pm. Fri 7 am-11 pm, Sat & Sun 9 am-11 pm at Maple location, Mon-Fri 11 am-10 pm, Sat 8:30 am-10 pm, Sun 8.30 am-3 pm at Arlington location. MC, V, AE. $)
SEAFOOD
D Atlantic Cafe. The cooking here remained as fine as ever on our last visit, but there were a couple of problems a restaurant this good shouldn’t tolerate. Mussels, beautifully presented in a flavorful broth, were overlarge and strong tasting. The halibut steak couldn’t have been more perfectly grilled-it had a crisp surface and meltingly tender flesh – but it smelled faintly of ammonia, signifying to us that it had passed the peak of freshness. Other parts of the meal were perfect: shrimp and scallop ceviche, tomato and fresh mozzarella salad, a sautéed combination of shellfish, crème brulée. We never find the waiters exactly warm and friendly here, but they are certainly efficient. (4546 McKinney at Knox. 559-4441. Lunch: Mon-Fri & Sun 11-2:30; dinner: Sun Thur: 5:30-10:30. Fro & Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$$)
Aw Shucks. For many good reasons, this disarmingly casual shuckery has become one of the most popular Lower Greenville dining spots Your search for the perfect catfish may end here-and nobody in Dallas fills a basket with fish for a cheaper price. The same cannot be said of the skimpy shrimp and oyster combo, but skip it and “pick up a dozen”-shucksese for a dozen plump oysters on the half shell Combine with a big bowl of sure-’nuff gumbo, and welcome to New Orleans West. (3601 Greenville. 821-9449; 4535 Maple. 522-4498. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-11:45 pm, Sun 11:30 am-9 pm at Greenville location: Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-11:45, Sun noon-10 pm at Maple location. No credit cards. $)
Bay Street. This still looks like Charley’s of old – the Addison branch is as big and airy as ever-and the ownership is still the same. You can still buy grilled fish here. We ordered a halibut steak off the chalkboard and found it fresh and tasty. But now Bay Street claims to offer Cajun food as well. The Cajun popcorn appetizer- highly seasoned, deepfried crayfish tails-are sensational, truly as hard to slop eating as popcorn. We found Bay Street out of redfish, but they cheerfully blackened some red snapper for us. The service is hard-working but not very cordial. (5348 Beit Line. Addison. 934-8502. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. MC, V, AE. $$)
Joe’s Seafood. There are no tables at this serve-yourself oyster bar. just counters and stools, but the lack of amenities doesn’t hurt the taste of the seafood. The whole catfish is served with the fillets miraculously peeled away from the bone, the shrimp are succulent, and the oysters are sweet and tender The french fries are satisfying if you don’t mind a little grease (we don’t in this case), the cole slaw is serious, garlicky stuff, and the hush puppies are the real thing (we had to go back and order more) The gumbo is better than average, and there are boiled shrimp and oysters on the half shell. (4324 Ash Lane (eastbound service road of 1-30. Peak/Carroll exit), 823-3681. Mon-Sat 11 am-midnight, Sun noon-midnight MC, V, AE. $)
D Café Pacific. Glossy but relaxed, this place epitomizes the often-deceptive Highland Park mystique for us. Except for a crisp Caesar salad (blessedly served for one), all our preliminaries were disappointing. Our appetizer portion of pasta with salmon suffered from the strong taste of the fish, the tortilla soup was too thick and tomatoey, and the smoked chicken salad-though bounteous with meaty chunks of chicken and perfect walnut halves-didn’t really meld into a unified dish But the main dishes included a good version of the ubiquitous blackened redfish, and the splendid Seafood Pacific (crab, scallops, and shrimp in a creamy sauce atop puff pastry) proved again one of the richest concoctions in town. Lovely details like a yellow rice that really tasted of saffron, a luxurious dessert of chocolate satin pie, and professional service all restored our faith in the virtues of Café Pacific. (Highland Park Village, Preston at Mocking-bird,Suite24 526-1170 Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30, Sun 10:30-2:30; dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. MC, V, AE. $$$)
Jozef’s. On our last visit to this cozy little restaurant on McKinney. we enjoyed a truly relaxing meal -a courtly, but not hovering waiter and a laid-back, almost seaside-like atmosphere close to downtown Dallas. Our appetizers, stuffed mushrooms and shrimp bisque, were delicious. The shrimp du chef, shrimp in a cream sauce, was light yet satisfying, and the scallops in yet another cream sauce were fresh and very good, but a little too dense. The praline parfait (skimpy on the praline sauce) and chocolate mousse cake (soggy) didn’t really measure up to the rest of the meal, (2719 McKinney. 826-5560. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11 All credit cards, $$$)
L&N Seafood Grill. You might not expect a seafood-restaurant named after the landlocked cities of Louisville and Nashville to have much going for it, but this outpost of a chain based in the Southeast, which overlooks the central courtyard of NorthPark mall, fills a valuable niche in Dallas-somewhere between the simplicities of an S&D Oyster Company and the ex-pense of a Cafe Pacific. It fries well, as both the bountiful appetizer of fried calamari (served with a racy fresh tomato sauce) and the main course of mixed fried sea-food attested. There are fairly elaborate dishes like the seafood strudel appetizer (a triangle of phyllo pastry encasing a richly sauced portion of shrimp and scallops) and pasta Nicoise (firmly cooked linguine with large shrimp seasoned with lots of garlic and other Mediterranean goodies). There is also a large selection of grilled fish-we found both yellowtail and grouper good but not outstanding (701 NorthPark Center. 363-4722. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Sun 11 am-10 pm; Sun brunch 11:30-3. MC, V, AE. $$)
Newport’s. A recent excursion to this hard-to-find spot in a corner of the West End Historical District showed it still to be a pleasant place to dine, if without the excitement of its early days. The ceviche appetizer overflowed with more shrimp and scallops than we could handle comfortably, and the marinated octopus, though very chewy and heavy in its oily sauce, had plenty of flavor. Fresh crab and shrimp adorned a creamily dressed salad to fine effect The main disappointments were in the main courses. Grilled tuna suffered from too smoky a taste and too dry a texture- not helped much by the accompanying beurre blanc and béarnaise sauces {the latter spoiled by too strong a flavor of tarragon). We can’t remember eating blue marlin before, and this sautéed version didn’t recommend it to us for the future- the breading was soggy and the fish underseasoned The best chocolate mousse in town – strongly flavored with rum – ended the meal on a high note. (703 McKinney in the Brewery 954-0220. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11 Closad Sun. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)
Oysters. This seafood place is cloning itself so fast we wondered if the food or service might be suffering. But. at the original location on Bel! Line in Addison at least, we found things better than ever. The seafood gumbo had a rich, smoky flavor, and the shrimp rémoulade (though the sauce lacked a real Creole bite) was tasty. . A platter of fried seafood had sweet oysters and crunchy shrimp and scallops, and this time even the cole slaw and the french fries were a plus As a special of the day, we even tried the ubiquitous blackened fish-in this case, snapper rather than redfish. It was furiously peppery and meltingly tender. (4580 Belt Line, 386-0122: 2901 N Central Expwy at Parker, 422-2469 Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 510 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)
Rocco Oyster Bar. The white-tiled walls and stark surroundings are a bit too high-tech to remind us of New Orleans, but the food here is much more characteristic of the Crescent City. To start our meal, we indulged in some fresh oysters on the half shell and a cup of hearty, spicy gumbo that ranked with the best we’ve ever tasted. Our friendly, efficient waitress suggested the house specials (displayed on a blackboard above the serving bar), so we tried that trendy favorite, blackened redfish, and a steamed Maine lobster. The lobster was rather tough, but the redfish was a sensation, with a spicy, charbroiled flavor and an incredibly tender texture. We also ordered fat homemade fries, chunky coleslaw, and fried okra. (2520 Cedar Springs. 747-6226. Tue-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Sun 11:30 am-10 pm. Closed Mon. MC, V, AE. $$)
Rusty Pelican. This first Dallas outpost of a California-based chain of quality seafood restaurants seems to have weathered the storm of the transition from the first days (when out-of-city help kept things running smoothly) to the takeover by the local staff (when service was shaky at first) Now things are on an even keel, and you may wait half an hour if you DOC in without a reservation. The specialty here is exotic fish, either charbroiled or sautéed We found that ahi, a Hawaiian fish, took well to the grill -served pink in the center, it really did remind us of a juicy, thick veal chop. The mahi-mahi had a grainier texture and just seemed dull, with only tartar sauce to add variety. (14655 Dallas Pkwy, Add/son. 980-8950. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner. Mon-Thur 5-11, Fri 5-midnight, Sat 4:30-midnight, Sun 4:30-11 pm. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)
Shucker’s. When this outpost of an Addison seafood restaurant first opened some months ago. we were unimpressed. But a new staff has transformed it into one of !he belter mid-priced seafood houses in town. Fried things (the specialty of the Addison location) are still good, but the fancier dishes like the combination hot hors d’oeuvres (with two kinds of baked oysters, calamri, and sautéed prawns) can be even belter. Nightly specials include unusual fish like silver salmon rich, buttery sauces. Desserts are definitely one of the attractions here, especially the unlikely sounding-bu! fabulous-chocolate bread pudding. (4620 McKin-ney. 522-7320. Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-midnight, Sun 5 pm-10 pm. All credit cards. $$-$$$)
SOUTHEAST ASIAN
Chiang Mai. Chiang Mai is the name of a city in northern Thailand, reputedly one of the loveliest in the country-and judging from this namesake, we are ready to believe it. The pretty decor and the courteous, helpful service make this one of the best places in Dallas to get acquainted with this delightfully exotic cuisine. Pick hits on the menu include meaty, tender pork moo sate; masterfully spicy shrimp coconut soup; perfectly prepared red curry shrimp, light, fresh-tasting eggplant Thai-style, delicious beef basil, and textbook versions of pud Thai and pineapple 1ned rice. In fact, the only treacherous section of the menu is the dessert selection: Thai desserts (such as sweet syrup in which tapi-oca nodules and corn kernels float) are not for the gastronomically faint of heart. (11277 E Northwest Hwy, Suite 148. 340-4499. Lunch: Sun-Fri 11:30-30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10:30, Fri & Sat 5-11:30. MC, V, AE. $$.)
La Pagode. This handsome, homey little place is our favorite for Vietnamese food in Dallas. The Imperial rolls and the Vietnamese-style crêpe (really a paper-thin omelette stuffed with sprouts and shrimp) are both wonderful ways to start a meal here The hot pot- a rich broth brimming with morsels of meat, seafood, and vegetables-is a good choice for a main dish tor a small crowd. The charbroiled beef strips come with let-tuce leaves and fresh herbs for making Southeast Asian tacos. But we have mixed feelings about the frog legs in French butter-the jumbo-sized gams need more browned garlic. (4302 Bryan 821-4542. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun noon-10 pm. MC, V, DC, CB. $-$$)
D REVISITS
Sawatdee. For a long time this was one of the top Asian restaurants in Dallas, but on the evidence of our last visit it has slipped considerably. The stuffed chicken wing had a tough, tasteless filling and a soggy coating, and the Plar Kung (a spicy shrimp salad) proved too sour and oversalty. The green curry beet – in a dull, watery sauce-was similarly disappointing, and the Crab Pud Chan (a noodle dish) tasted slightly fishy. The one really fine dish, the whole red snapper with spicy sauce, boasted plenty of flavor and succulent flesh, but one had to struggle with the small fish to make sure one had removed all the bones. (4503 Greenville at Yale. 373-6138. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner daily 5-10:30. All credit cards $$)
Siam Orchid. While the food may not live up to the memories of that served by the Siam (the restaurant that formerly occupied this space), the Siam Orchid is still perhaps the best Thai restaurant in town On our most recent visit, the spring rolls were wonderfully crunchy and tasty, and both soups (chicken with rice and shrimp in a hot-and-sour broth flavored with lem-ongrass) were enormously satisfying. Crunchy fish fillets swam in a red curry sauce decorated with fresh hot peppers. On the down side, the pork satay was dry and the charcoal-grilled beef in the salad with fresh mint lacked flavor. But since most of the food is excellent and the service kind and helpful, we think it is worth braving the sleazy neighborhood for a meal here. (1730 W Mockingbird near Harry Mines. 631-6505. Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm & 5-10:30 pm, Sat 5-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)
Siam Rose. It would be nice to report that the food at Siam Rose is as much a step up for Thai restaurants in Dallas as the ambience is, but sadly, the cooking is only about average There are some interesting novelties: the pieces of chicken cooked in cornhusks are a kind of masa-less Thai tamale, and the duck in a red wine sauce is a subtle mixture of slightly sweet and salty tastes. We liked the chicken satay and beet salad among the appetizers, the shrimp cooked with lots of garlic and black pepper, and !he perennial Siamese favorite pud Thai (noodles in a tangy sauce with shrimp and ground peanuts). But a number of standard Thai dishes can be under par here, like the spring rolls and the fishy-tasting deep-fried softshell crabs. (5290 Bell Line, Suite 142. 991-9881. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3, dinner: daily 5-11. MC, V, AE. $$)
Thai Lanna. We have not been among those im-pressed by the original Bryan Street location of this Thai restaurant. But the new place on Spring Valley Road in Richardson has some of the best Asian food in town, and in cozy surroundings For examples of what Thai Lanna does best, try the stuffed chicken wings or the beef panang. The chicken coconut soup -a rich and mysterious blend Of the named ingredients plus lots of fresh herbs-is one of our favorite dishes anywhere. The menu here is unusually varied and rewards ex-ploration. (1490 W Spring Valley. Richardson. 690-3637, 690-3642. Lunch: daily 11 am-3 pm: dinner: daily 5-10 pm. MC, V. $-$$)
SOUTHERN
Bubba’s. We continue to come here for the crisp, juicy fried chicken and the sweetish, yeasty rolls (dripping with honey, if you like). But the rest of Bubba’s food is problematical. The selection of vegetables is commendable, but the greens, green beans, and pinto beans are all cooked (authentically) with salt pork, and all come out saltier than any sailor’s language. And the mashed potatoes taste like cardboard. Neither the cat-fish nor the chicken-fried steak can be recommended, either. Still. Bubba’s is prettier than Church’s and offers unbeatable opportunities for preppy-watching. (6617 Hillcrest. 373-6527. Mon-Fri 6:30 am-3 pm & 4-10 pm. Sat & Sun 6.30 am-10 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)
D Café Margaux. Tom Agnew’s latest restaurant remains one of the best bargains in the city- Dallas could use lots more places like this that are unassuming in decor and serve first-rate food. The top dishes here include Cajun popcorn (tiny fried crayfish with a sherry sauce) and exemplary blackened redfish. A nightly special of garlicky rediish soup has also been a knockout. The Cajun fried chicken served over dirty rice was mildly disappointing, but the bread pudding with whiskey sauce-dark with apples and raisins-made up for it. So far, Café Margaux doesn’t have a liquor license, but it is the only place in Dallas that serves recognizable Louisiana cuisine. (4424 Lovers Lane. 739-0886. Lunch. Mon-Sat 11.30-2:30; dinner Mon-Sat 6-10. Reservations for parties of 6 or more. MC, V $-$$.)
Dick’s Last Resort. You can have more fun in this bar-restauram than just about anyplace else in the West End historical district. There’s sawdust on the floor, New Orleans-style bands, singers, and other musicians performing on stage, and a general air of camaraderie all over. For a place that is basically a bar, Dick’s Last Resort serves amazingly good food. The beef ribs are huge and meaty, a bit sweet. The spit-turned barbecue chicken is sensational, and the catfish is even better-crunchy and juicy. (Ross at Record. 747-0001. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner Mon-Wed 5:30-10:30, Thur & Sun 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-midnight. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)
Highland Park Cafeteria. We don’t know why the Dallas Parkway branch of this venerable. local institution can’t quite keep up the standards of the original place. Perhaps the demand isn’t there – we notice you can seldom get the signature spinach salad with horseradish at the far North Dallas location. And fried chicken, usually definitive on Knox, is often soggy and tasteless uptown, But even at the lesser branch, you can come away feeling coddled by Southern hospitality. We love to make a meal of such regional delights as chicken and dumplings, collard greens, yams with marshmallows, and lemon pie. The German chocolate cake is also worth the calories (4611 Cole, 526-3801; Sakowitz Village. 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy, Suite 600. 934-8800 Mon-Sat 11:30 am-2 pm & 5:30-8 pm at Cole location. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm. Sun 10:45 am-3 pm at Sakowitz Village location. No credit cards; MC, V, AE for takeout and buffet orders of more than $10. $)
Southern Kitchen. The crowds at these two venerable Dallas institutions at either end of Northwest Highway reflect the American love of plenty. All the shrimp, crab meat, and oysters you can eat (and that’s |ust for appetizers!) is a powerful draw. It matters little that the supposed main course (fried and barbecued chicken, fried seafood and trimmings, again in unlimited quantities) is just a bit better than good cafeteria level. If you prefer-and you might-you can order a steak c broiled swordfish instead. The homemade biscuits and cinnamon rolls and the very hard-working service are also major attractions here. (6615 E Northwest Hwy, 368-1658; 2356 W Northwest Hwy, 352-5220 Mon-Sat 5:30-10 pm, Sun 5-9:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$)
STEAKS, BURGERS, ETC.
Baskets Eatery. This mecca for informal diners hasn’t been around long, but it’s already opening several branches. You order at a counter, and your meal comes in-what else?-a basket, but there’s a wider choice than at similar places where you can only get burgers Here there are shish kebabs and fried chicken as well The chicken we found less greasy than at fast-food emporia, but the speed with which it was served, and the lack of just-fried, finger-burning freshness, suggested it had been cooked a while in advance. Our hamburger came with excellent homemade chili on top. Baskets also has an ice cream bar for those who have room for dessert. (4343 W Northwest Highway, 351-2575; 1603 LBJ Freeway. 484-3681. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11 at Northwest Highway location, Mon-Fri 11 am-3 pm at LBJ location. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)
Del Frisco’s Steak House. This is a branch of a New Orleans place that serves USDA Prime steaks drizzled with a butter sauce Del Frisco’s also serves a number of other New Orleans specialties, like a light, crusty French bread fresh from the oven, turtle soup, shrimp remoulade, and bread pudding The steaks were obviously of the quality advertised and they were cooked to order, but both were seared a bit too hard on the outside, producing a slightly unpleasant taste and texture, and one was a bit overaged. The broiled Australian lobster taiI, though probably imported frozen, was huge and had a flavor and texture superior to many whole American lobsters that cost far more. Desserts include a very good bread pudding with a Johnny Walker sauce (4300 Lemmon. 526-2101. Daily 5 pm-10 pm. MC, V, AE. $$$)
Hoffbrau. it’s tough enough to find a good steak these days, much less one for under ten bucks. This restaurant, chock full of things Texana, is living proof that not everyone these days is turning to chicken and fish. No wonder. The specialty here is definitely meat, and judging by the crowds at both lunch and dinner, Hoffbrau’s tasty steaks are no secret. All dinners here include a large salad (with a house dressing}, a plate of bread and crackers, and pan-fried chunky potato slices. Waitresses clad in T-shirts and blue jeans set an informal atmosphere. Good food, good service, and good luck finding a parking place. (3205 Knox. 559-2680. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11 pm, Sun noon-10pm. All credit cards. $$)
Jimanny’s. We’re not sure why they kept the old name-this is essentially a new restaurant, with fresh owners, management, and menu Though you can stilt get steak here, this is essentially a European brasserie these days (the new proprietors are Belgian). So the steaks come topped with well-prepared sauces like one of cream and pepper and another of mushrooms and brandy. Or the sauces can top the delicious spit-masted chickens one sees turning on rotisseries. The ideal accompaniment for both is an order of crunchy fried shoestring potatoes (those craving American baked potatoes will be discouraged) Prices tor the basics are quite reasonable, but the fancier sauces tote sleep price tags (2109 W Parker, Piano. 985-1339. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-11 pm, Sat 5-11 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $-$$)
D REVISITS
Lawry’s The Prime Rib. For those who like their meal and potatoes dished up with a maximum of show, this is the place. In the elegant setting (somewhat funereal, appropriate to the location’s former use as a mortuary), waitresses masquerading as chambermaids from Upstairs, Downstairs spin salads over bowls of ice. and carvers wheel around great chrome carts bearing beef. The only choice of entree in the evening is in the size of the slice of roast – we favor the thickest, “Dallas” cut, complete with bone, and warn against anything cooked past medium. Accompaniments and desserts are generally mediocre at best, but the baronial campiness of the place lends charm to the beef. (3008 Maple. 521-7777. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2: dinner. Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri 6-11:30, Sat 5:30-11:30, Sun 5-10; Sun brunch: 11-2:30. All credit cards. $$$)
The Palm. The floors are littered with sawdust, and the decorations consist mainly of doodled caricatures of the famous (and not so famous). So what makes this the playground of the biggest spenders around? The old-pro waiters give the place a certain air, and the food is certainly the sort high rollers go for. Steaks are the number one item – our tenderloin was as delicious as it was pricey. Lobsters are another specialty, and luckily this time we found one weighing in at only three and a half pounds. The accompanying potatoes of various kinds are usually tempting (though on one recent occasion we found the wafer-thin tried slices unpleasantly bitter-tasting). Appetizers and desserts are mostly not worth the additional (hefty) expense. At lunch there is a much more reasonably priced menu, but do you real-ly go to the Palm to eat shrimp salad or steak tartare? (701 Ross 698-0470 Mon-Fri 11:30 am-10.30 pm, Sat 5-11 pm. Sun5-10 pm. All credit cards. $$$$)
D Ruth’s Chris Steak House. Don’t be alarmed that Dallas’ premier steakhouse is part of a small New Orleans-based franchise chain -group buying is the only way to be sure of getting beef this good out of the distributors. And good it is. The rib-eye is our favorite-though the indulgence in so much rich, fatty beef may raise our cholesterol levels for a week. But that’s the difference between prime and choice beef – the fatty marbling that gives the best beef its incomparable flavor The softball-size tenderloins are a bit less flavorful but very tender The expense ac-count eaters who come here seem to be mostly meat-and-potatoes people- which is fine, since potatoes are the only side dishes that match the quality of the beef. You can have them fried four different ways, baked, au gratin, lyonnaise. etc. (6940 Greenville- 691-6940. Mon-Fri 11:30-11:30, Sat & Sun 5-11.30 pm. All credit cards. $$$)
LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES
The Café. The prospect of enjoying home cooking at a restaurant held relatively little appeal since we could, theoretically, stay home and enjoy similar fare That’s what we thought before we ate at The Caté Mom never thought about cooking like this stuffed jalapenos, smothered steak with mushrooms, and chicken-fried rib-eye – all to the beat of Motown’s best. This Arlington spot is riding the crest of Fifties nostalgia with flashing neon and lots of chrome, but a second look a! the im-pressive menu and beer list (more than 100 brands) will tell you that The Cafe is firmly entrenched in the Eighties. (715-A Ryan Plaza, Arlington (817) 261-1000 Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11:30 am-midnight, Sun 11-10. All credit cards $$)
Café Cipriani. A brass-and-glass elevator sets the tony mood, but the food sometimes is a letdown The mixed seafood appetizer (including tiny squid), the shrimp provencale. and the earthy risotto with wild mushrooms were fine, but the crab cannelloni were bland and the fresh lobster came served over a shockingly green (and not very appetizing) spinach sauce The veal fiorentino suffered from the same treatment, and the salmon was a tad fishy The raspberry souffle was light and refreshing, but the German chocolate cake should have been sent back to the old country. (220 E Las Col-inasBlvd, Irving 869-0713. Lunch. Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5 30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)
Cedars Village Cafe. The Cedars, a Lebanese cafe, is wedged between retail shops and across the parking lot from a teen-infested Taco Bell drive-through. But park the car and make the few steps over to a new world of take-out. You can take-out, but we prefer not to. Rather, we’re inclined to take a bottle of wine (the cafe is dry but you can bring your own) and have a leisurely meal inside on the patio chairs and tables-a sort of urban picnic Everything on the limited menu is worth a try. but the eggplant dip is especially praiseworthy And as far as the prices go, you can’t go wrong when a complete meal for two has a hard lime reaching ten dollars. (5801 W l-20. (817) 483-1988. Sun-Thur 11 am-9 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. MC, V, AE. $$)
D Enjolie. Although we have recently suffered from underdone lobster and unimaginative sauces, there are still enough delightful touches like the tad grapefruit sorbet, the selection of French cheeses and the chocolate truffles to make a visit to Enjolie extremely rewarding. (Mandalay Four Seasons Hotel, 221 E Las Colinas Blvd, Irving. 556-0800, ext. 3511 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Mon-Sat 6-10 30 Closed Sun. Reservations recommended Alt credit cards. $$$$)
Flying Lobster. Grapevine is undergoing a major facelift these days, and the Flying Lobster, with its fresh entrees and dockside decor, is among the community’s newest and best offerings Although this might be catfish territory to some, there’s nary a fried fish sizzling on the stove The lobster is flown in daily trom Maine; the crab comes from the Gulf The entrees lack imagination, but freshness makes up for creativity. The cook took the chore out of eating lobster by removing all but the most tender chunks of meat, and the creamy sauce that covered the meat added just enough flavor to enhance an already delightful meal. We had to work a bit harder to get through the seafood platter, which featured everything from frog’s legs to swordfish. The sampling of steamed clams, shrimp, and lobster made for an interesting mix, but after the first few bites, everything tasted the same (1321 W Northwest Hwy, Grapevine 431-4135. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2: dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10. Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. MC, V,AE: personal checks accepted. $$)
La Deli. An honest-to-goodness Lebanese restaurant in the middle of the old Hackberry ranch? Well, the proprietors think so And so do we, except that the menu has been more or less Americanized. You can begin and end your meal with the Generous Tray alone: eighteen (count ’em) dishes of assorted salads and appetizers, from rolled and stuffed grape leaves to fresh yogurt This is a very enticing – and filling- beginning. Our favorite is the crushed eggplant in which you dip steamy pita bread But be sure to leave some room for an entrée The combination dinner is a good choice because you can sample some of Lebanon’s most famous (and sometimes unpronounceable) dishes: kib-bi. falafel. and shish kebab. (5433 N. MacArthur. 258-1163. Lunch Mon-Sat 10-3, dinner Tue-Sat 5-10 Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)
Piccolo Mondo. We were pleasantly surprised to find gnocchi on the evening’s menu at this neighborhood Italian restaurant in Arlington. (Although it’s located in a strip shopping center off congested Collins-FM 157 – it has the feel of a quiet neighborhood place.) Gnocchi are light potato dumplings in a creamy sauce that are truly a delicious appetizer Sated, we followed that great beginning with fettuccine alia putanesca and veal scaloppine Virginia. The fettuccine was unusual in its light, tomatoey sauce, but the light and creamy veal was predictable. (829 East Lamar. (817) 265-9174. Lunch Mon-Fri: 11:30-2:30. dinner: Mon-Thur: 5:30-1030, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Ail credit cards. $$)
Samurai. It’s surprising how a belt of sake will improve your outlook on life-and raw fish Dunked in the mix-lure of soy sauce and hot mustard, sashimi can be one of the best taste sensations found anywhere. All here, with the mild exception of the Yellowfin, fulfilled our expectations The large portion of salmon was a little more done than we prefer but the Creamy sauce restored the dish’s vitality. The array of tempura vegetables, on the other hand, was somewhat lackluster and bland. And the marinated beef was plentiful, but tasted as if it had marinated perhaps a bit too long. But another belt of sake put everything right. (2305 West Park Row. Arlington. (817) 860-2871. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11 -2; dinner. Mon-Thur 5 10 pm. Fri & Sat 5-11 pm. Sun 5-9:30. All credit cards. $$)
Via Real. Dramatic abstract pictures dominate the walls, and even the menus are original handcrafted works by the same artists. The contents of the menu are as fresh as the look of the place- you might call the concept New Wave Mexican, with a hint of Continental Spanish influence. The appetizers include such novelties as crepa de salmone (thin slices of smoked salmon enfolded in crêpes and served dry except for a garnish of pico de gallo) and rellenos de pescado (long cylinders of fish mousse studded with salmon and surrounded by a rich sauce) Main courses at Via Real also tilt toward the seafood end, with skewered scallops and swordfish among the specialties We found the scallop kebabs dominated loo strongly by the taste of the bacon that enwrapped it, but the swordfish was firm-fleshed and tasty. (Towns North Centre, 3591 N Belt Line at Northgate, Irving. 255-0064. Lunch. Mon-Fn 11-2: dinner: Sun-Thur 5- 10, Fri & Sat 5-11. All credit cards. $$)
FORT WORTH
Autumn Moon. This East Side establishment tries a little bit too hard to be a great restaurant when it should be content that it’s a very good one. With not much ethnic competition on the East Side, Autumn Moon has a pretty clear field, so it’s hard to understand why, on a recent visit, we were serenaded with the sounds of a live electric guitar player throughout our dinner of crispy soup, spicy chicken, and “two taste delicious,” a daring mix of spicy shrimp and pork. Our meal was, as usual, prompt and satisfying, but as far as we could ted. the music was more akin to Muzak than ballads of the Far East. (5516 Brentwood Stair (817) 496-6633. Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri &Sat 11 am-11 pm. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)
Aventino’s. This small West Side Italian inn is becoming a consistent winner with us. On our last visit, we had some of the best tortellini in Fort Worth – perhaps the entire Metroptex. Creamy, with just the right amount of seasoning and fresh garden peas, the pasta-wrapped bites of veal and beef were delissima. Perhaps we were so impressed with the tortellini Aventino that our accompanying entree of sautéed veal paled by comparison (it was bland and had too much breading). But everything else shone: the melted-cheese appetizer (to dunk piping-hot bread in) was gooey and rich; and the live classical guitar music was a perfect backdrop for our dessert of espresso and coconut flan And although the diminutive restaurant is enjoying a big business, you can still get a tabte on weekends without a reservation. (3206 Winthrop Ave. (817) 731-0711. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 5-9. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)
The Balcony of Ridglea. Overlooking the streaming lights of Camp Bowie is even more pleasurable while you sip a glass of crisp, cold while wine and savor the piquant taste of tender Norwegian salmon, steamed and sauced with a light hollandaise. A recent visit to this West Side vanguard yielded both – in ample and satis-fying portions. In addition to the redfish, we also sam-pled a house specialty, double-cut lamb chops, and found them moist and tender, perfectly cooked to order. We would have stopped there, but our waiter pleasantly surprised us with a sudden availability of a Grand Marnier souffle of which we eagerly took advan-tage. It was delicate-albeit loaded with the sweet liqueur-and could have stood alone sans the dollop of whipped cream, which only added to its richness. (6100 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-3719. Lunch: Mon-Fn 11:30-2: dinner. Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. All major credit cards. $$$)
The Carriage House. Leisurely service is the byword here. Nothing is rushed, and given the ambition of the new menu, you need the time to carefully peruse the bountiful offerings of steak, seafood, and veal. We could have made an entire meal of the fresh, perfectly seasoned pate maison. Our grilled swordfish was taken from the flames not a moment too soon, but the large tenderloin suffered under a suffocating blanket of pep-percorns. Despite competition, the Old Guard Carriage House remains one of the most popular places in Fort Worth-and by our observations, it is aging as gracefully as its clientele. (5136 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-2873. Lunch. Mon-Fri 11:30-2: dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11, Sun 6-10; Sun brunch 11-2 All credit cards. $$$)
City Park Cafe. When was the last lime you went to a restaurant and found the food even better than you remembered and the prices lower? If it’s been as long for you as it has been for us. then you haven’t stopped by the City Park Cafe, that quaint little restaurant in the TCU district, lately We’re making a resolution not to let so much time slip by from now on We tried a tender veal marsala in a brown sauce that was different from what we had expected but nonetheless a great choice and a plate of seafood fettuccine that was as good as we’ve had in more expensive places. City Park Cafe is a jewel of a neighborhood restaurant. (2418 Forest Park Blvd. (817) 921-4567. Lunch, daily 11-3; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Sun 5-9: Sun brunch: 11-3. MC, V, AE; personal checks accepted. $$)
El Rancho Grande. Our high opinion of this North Side establishment was tarnished a bit during our last visit. First, we were kept waiting for more than twenty minutes before our drink order was even taken despite a bevy of waitresses hovering over nearby tables. Then we tried to console ourselves with the house special margarita (a heavy portion of gold tequila and other liqueurs), but the steep price tag drowned our some-what rejuvenated spirits. Despite these disappoint-ments, the beef fajitas and chicken enchiladas drenched in sour cream were still in our good graces, and the light-as-a-feather nacho chips are still our favorites. (1400 N Main. (817) 624-9206. Mon-Thur 11 am-9:30 pm. Fri &Sat 11 am-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)
J & J’s Oyster Bar. A restaurant usually becomes an institution because it never fails to please. J & J’s is a classic case. There’s not much to add to always-fresh succulent oysters on the half shell, golden-fried jumbo shrimp, and cold, cold draft beer to wash it all down perfectly. The diner-like atmosphere is full of three-piece suits and TCU buttondowns bellying up to the bar next to construction hard hats, all savoring the warm smell of the deep-fry. This is not an elegant evening on the town-just a satisfying one. (929 University. (817) 335-2756. Mon-Thur 11-11. Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. Sun 3-9 pm. MC, V, AE. $)
Joe T. Garcia’s. The fame of Joe T.’s can get in the way of enjoyment when tourist buses pile up outside, but if you can go at an off hour a lot of old magic is still there. There is less bustle, and the mostly gringo waiters are more solicitous. The food is pretty consistent. In case you haven’t heard, the standard Mexican dinner is the big specialty here, and it’s almost the only thing Joe T.’s serves. It consists of round cheese nachos with a sprinkling of chopped jalapenos, a couple of cheese enchiladas with a purist’s cumin-flavored sauce, and a couple of tacos made the old-fashioned way, with meat fried right in the crimped-together shell. On the side, thick refired beans, a lovely guacamole, and fluffy Mexican rice are served family style For holdouts against tradition, a version of fajitas called bistec is a worthy {and the only) alternative. (2201 N Commerce. (817) 626-4356. Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm & 5-10:30 pm. Sat 11-11, Sun 1-10 pm. No credit cards. $$)
Juanita’s. The Juanita in the restaurant’s name is the wife of novelist Dan Jenkins. The food served in her pretty establishment is interesting, but inconsistent at this point. It ranges from blackened redfish to heavy-on-the-ancho-chiles enchiladas to shrimp in “fiery-garlic butter, that lacked delectable fire The dessert of choice is a Dove Bar – high-quality ice cream covered with a thick layer of dark chocolate. (115 W Second. (817)335-1777. Mon-Thur 11 am-1 am. Fri 11 am-2 am, Sat noon-2 am, Sun noon-1 am. MC, V, AE. $$)
La Palma. No ritzy ferns. No cute little tried appetizer things. And no frosty margaritas – they don’t even have a hard-liquor license But, jumpin’ jehosaphat, you don’t need those frills when you’ve got the best fajitas in town. That’s an honor we don’t bestow lightly. We’ve long been on the trail of the best fajitas in Fort Worth, and this restaurant eluded us tor quite some time. It’s located on far north Main. (If you think you’ve gone far enough, you haven’t. And don’t let the bright fed windowless exterior daunt you. This is the right place.) And now that we know where it is, it’ll be a permanent stop on our circuit. (3T09 N Main. (817) 626-0292. Mon 11 am-2pm, Tue-Sat 11 am-9 pm. Closed Sun. MC. V. $)
D Michel. Things have changed at this toniest of Fort Worth French restaurants Now there is a printed menu, from which you can order a la carte. And Michel also offers a nightly menu de dégustation, with five sizable courses, including dessert (not bulked out with mere green salad and sorbet). When we visited, the menu de dégustation included some surprisingly adventurous items, starting with a veal paté and then a seafood mousse Fillet of sole was topped with a strong-tasting, oversalted melange of diced potatoes and capers. That was followed by a breast of pheasant in a winy sauce. We sampled a racy salad with chicken livers. Despite a few flaws, the new scheme of things seems to have put some new life into the cooking, and the service, too, seemed newly attentive and helpful. (3851 Camp Bowie (817) 732-1231. Mon-Sat 6-10 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations. Jackets and ties required. MC, V, AE $$$$)
River House. The trick is to arrive early enough on a weekend night to be seated right away. That way, you’ll have the entire selection of specials to choose from. You’ll be sorry it you miss out on the King Salmon. On a recent visit, this special vanished at 7;30 pm, but our order was taken in the nick of time. We also tried the house scampi-twice. The first order the waitress brought us resembled curled-up snails in a brown sauce, but before we could even venture a bite, she returned to snatch the plate away, saying that this order would never do. She returned just moments later with some of the plumpest crustaceans we’ve seen in a long time. Lying on a puffy bed of pilaf, the shrimp made a big hit at our table. (1660 S University. (817)336-0815. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon & Tue 5-9. Wed-Sat5-10. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)
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