Every religion has its sacred icon, a symbol with near-universal rallying appeal. Restaurants are no exception. But where is the dining shrine that embodies Dallas? The theme dining spot that offers revelations of who we are? It’s the real estate restaurant, of course. Because spending money comes second only to making money in this town. And what we need is a place where we can do both. It’s a place at the pit of an excavation site, where gargoyles of Trammell Crow flank the entry, land prices and brokers’ telephone numbers are etched, graffiti-like, onto the walls, restrooms invoke the interior of a Port-O-Let and patrons say pass the pepper, but keep the dirt flyin’.