CUISINE LUNCH HOUR

IF THERE’S anything that’ll speed a slow morning right along, it’s the anticipation of that midday miracle-worker: lunch. Whether its a sloppy burger with everything, a nutritious salad or filet mignon, lunch can make or break a day.

But alas, take a noontime stroll through the legions of downtown office buildings and you’ll see example after example of “the working lunch”: an employee on the phone or at the typewriter plowing through briefs or “IN” boxes while munching on a stale sandwich purchased from the company cafeteria and gulping down a canned diet drink from a machine. Oh, pass the Alka Seltzer! How can this be healthy?

Unbeknownst to many a worker, downtown Dallas is full of wonderful dining spots, from economical sandwich/salad bars to grandiose restaurants perfect for high-powered executive lunches. With just a brisk walk from any part of the Central Business District, you can find a variety of places to eat and take a break. And now that the weather is cool, there’s no excuse for not getting out and about at noontime. Below are a number of suggestions for downtown dining.



GOOD DEALS FOR THE MONEY



Blue Front, 1310 Elm. 741-7560. Don’t come here in search of a light lunch; it doesn’t exist. This is the place to find rib-sticking German food. The Reuben sandwich is top-notch, and the potato salad is authentic. Hearty soups and hot dishes are offered at very reasonable prices. Service is quite efficient, with steadfast but warm German-accented waitresses who further the authenticity.

CD’s New York Deli and Bar, 1201 Elm. 747-7210. Huge deli sandwiches are offered here in a somewhat bustling atmosphere. Portions are large, and the basics-salami on rye, pastrami on pumpernickel-are what you’ll find. Hot soups are also available, which, depending on the day of the week, range from very good to about-as-good-as-canned. Service is quick and efficient.

The Elm Street Point, 1324 Elm. 742-6552 If you’ve walked into the Point, you’ve already made your dining decision: You’re going to have a burger. Maybe you’ll split one with a friend or maybe you’ll hold the onions or pickles, but you will have a burger. These house specialties are pure decadence-they’re so huge that most people can barely get their mouths around them. Other sandwiches are offered, but, at least on your first visit, grab a burger-with onions-and have several breath mints for dessert.

Coin’ Home, 907 Elm. 744-1232. If “home” to you is a place where Grandma cooks up huge, hearty meals, then going to Goin’ Home will truly be like going home. This is cafeteria-style dining, where country-boys-gone-business-execs form lines out the door and halfway down the block to fill up on one of the restaurant’s specials. Chicken-fried steak is trophy quality here: The breading is crunchy, the meat is tender and the gravy is creamy and flavorful. Fried okra and meat loaf are usually on the menu, and several other fresh vegetables are offered. Homemade rolls top off the entrée; buttermilk pie is offered for a finishing touch.

Grumbles, 301 N. Market. 741-9212. Here’s a taste of old New Orleans right in the warehouse district. Chilled jumbo shrimp is a house specialty, and it is truly special, served on ice with an excellent cocktail sauce. The red beans and rice are as close to Cajun as you’ll find this side of Bourbon Street. The standard burgers and fries are also offered. Service can be slow, and because of the lack of dining spots in this sector of downtown, there is often a wait at noon.

Hornby’s, 214 N. Akard, 748-3426; and Plaza of the Americas, 698-0006. This chain has two locations in downtown Dallas, and neither branch has any trouble packing in the customers day after day. Burgers are Hamby ’s mainstay, out a number of variations are also included in the simple patty-on-a-bun routine. The dieter’s plate is excellent-a lean burger (sans bun) served with sliced tomatoes and cottage cheese. For those less concerned with waistlines, the patty melt is a winner, served with a plentiful supply of crisp, piping-hot, curly fries.

Hong Kong Garden, 1404 Main. 651-1553. So you thought you had to live in Manhattan to enjoy good, fast, Chinese food for lunch? Wrong. Hong Kong Garden may not be the best Chinese restaurant in the city, but it does offer good, inexpensive Chinese dishes. Daily specials are featured in addition to the menu’s “regulars,” such as sweet and sour pork and cashew chicken. The egg rolls, which come with every meal, are fairly large and are cooked to perfection; the pepper beef is very good.

Ranch House, 1310 Main. 742-0309. This is a real good ol’ place to grab a heapin’ helpin of some authentic Texas barbecue. The food is served cafeteria-style, by friendly-almost flirtatious-folks. The barbecue beef-on-a-bun is good and filling; add the stuffed baked potato to the meal and you’ve created a mammoth feast sure to fill even the largest belly. Baked beans and coleslaw are also offered. Seating is fairly limited, but the crowd tends to move quickly.

Tossed Greens and Things, ThanksGiving Square. 744-2254. This is the place for those weight- and health-conscious people interested in guilt-free dining. Everything here is healthy (except perhaps, the desserts). Close to a dozen salads are offered, from “Wabbit’s Delight” (all veggies) to “The Works,” which includes cold meats, cheeses and loads of raw vegetables. A variety of dressings is available; food is served cafeteria-style.

NICE PLACES FOR A BUSINESS LUNCH



Ceret, 703 McKinney. 720-0279. This is quickly becoming one of the most popular luncheon hot spots in Dallas. Despite-or perhaps because of-its obscure location in the old brewery on the west side of downtown, it’s quite a novelty. The restaurant is in a two-story, open building with a lot of natural lighting. It’s a sort of French bistro, and judging by the number of French natives dining here, it’s a good rendition of the real thing. The atmosphere is casual and bustling; the menu, though fairly limited, offers authentic French pate’s, soups and light entrees (including a fine red fish).

Charcuterie, Sanger Harris, Pacific and Akard. 749-3388. This is a true European-style café, with small tables, a nice view of passers-by and a generous array of light lunch offerings. Several cold pasta and seafood salads are offered, and soups are generally fresh and tasty. Service is swift; the atmosphere, comfy.

The Grille, Adolphus Hotel. 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Very staid and businesslike with wing chairs, dark wood and elegant table dressings, the Grille sets the mood for power lunches. Service is crisp and efficient, and the food, for the most part, is superb. House salads are generous, and although the soup of the day is often tempting, the lobster bisque (a special) shouldn’t be missed. Several delightful veal dishes are offered, and a pastry cart that appears after the entrée will make you want to forget your diet.

L’Oustau, SPG Building, 1530 Main. 747-2117. The management of this continental restaurant is trying very hard to make L’Oustau a top-notch dining institution. It’s not there yet, but then, number two (or three or four) does try harder. Service here is excellent (the waiters are knowledgeable and courteous), and the food is authentic: The onion soup is somewhat sweet and full of stringy cheese; and although the champagne chicken is a tad too rich, the buttery herb sauce is wonderful. Desserts are awkwardly displayed on a table at the front of the restaurant, and after the entrée has been cleared from the table, the diner is asked to stroll by the table and choose a dessert. The atmosphere is pleasant and, best of all, there is rarely a long wait.

The Palm Bar, Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. This is the “quick” grab-a-lunch place in the Adolphus. Salads, soups and deli sandwiches are offered in a charming café atmosphere. But beware: Service is often slow and haphazard, which is unfortunate because this should be an excellent middle-of-the-road place for business lunches.

The Zodiac Room, Neiman-Marcus, 1618 Main. 741-6911. This is a place from a time gone by, when people decked out in their highfashion duds and made special trips downtown for all-day shopping sprees. At midday, the Zodiac Room was the place to stop to get a bite and to rest weary legs. The all-day shopping spree downtown may not be as popular today, but the Zodiac Room still is. A light chicken broth and warm rolls with strawberry- and lemon-butter are served before each meal. Excellent fruit salads and club sandwiches are offered, as are more filling entrées of fish, beef and fowl. Reservations are recommended.



OTHER GOOD BETS



The Atrium, 1404 Main. 651-8414. This is a good place to enjoy a nice, leisurely lunch in a pleasant atmosphere. An array of club sandwiches is offered, as are several quiches and an excellent beer/cheese soup. The prices are moderate; the service is polite and efficient. A lunch date or a very casual business lunch would go smoothly here.

Café Jasper, 400 N. St. Paul. 760-7336. This is a charming, sunny place that offers cafeteria-style French food. Fresh pastries and breads are served with chicken and beef dishes. The French Dip (a roast beef sandwich served au jus) is excellent, as are the many desserts.

Kim’s Egg Roll, 730 N. Harwood, 698-9728; 4403 Live Oak, 827-9481; and 913 Ross, 651-0225. This place offers good egg rolls very quickly, plus a few other Oriental dishes (as well as burgers and fries). One of the establishment’s three locations offers a limited amount of seating; the other two are for takeout only. Although almost everything on the menu is passable, we suggest that you stick with the specialty: egg rolls.

Sol’s Turf Bar, 1515 Commerce. 747-7977. This shady-looking dive is really a favorite hangout of some sophisticated executives. A standing rule in some circles is that you never go to Sol’s unless you were going to have your suit dry-cleaned the next day, anyway. Sol’s is filled with the aroma of pizzas being shoveled out of the oven at a very rapid rate. The crusts are thin and crisp, and the toppings are usually sloppy and greasy and good.

Vicks Continental, 717 N. Harwood. 651-9211. This is a fair restaurant in a great atmosphere-the type of place where you’ll say, “What’s wrong with this picture?” A very pleasant atrium is the setting for just average meals. The menu offers a wide array of dishes, from patty melts to chicken-fried steak to baked fish. Although none are exceptional, they all are passable.

Wine and Cheese Shop, 720 N. Harwood. 742-4582. When you want to grab the fixings for an impromptu picnic at ThanksGiving Square or any nearby park bench, this is the place to go. Fresh fruit, cheese and cold meats are offered, as is an array of prepared sandwiches and cold salads. Soft drinks, wine and fruit juices are also available, with packaged gourmet food to add a touch of class.