The Bay Tree. Since the first slick marble slabs were put in place at the new Wyndham Hotel, we’ve been chomping at the bit to get inside and sample its new restaurants. So far, we’ve been disappointed-not with the appearance of the lobby or the architecture of the structure, but with The Bay Tree. Twice during the first 10 minutes that we were in the hotel’s gourmet restaurant, waiters apologized for its miniscule size. We found ourselves elbow-to-elbow with other diners, moving our own tableware around carefully to avoid disaster. The service, though apologetic, was friendly and well-paced. We enjoyed a beautifully prepared rack of lamb that was artistically arranged in quarter-size slices around a tomato stuffed with eggplant. The meat was cooked to perfection -crisp on the outside and juicy toward the middle. The special New York sirloin was also beautifully presented in red-wine sauce topped with tender morels. The Bay Tree served us some of the few dessert-cart desserts we’ve had that tasted as good as they looked. The double-fudge cake served with orange sauce was rich and creamy. But it’s a shame that The Bay Tree is so crowded. We hope that something can be done to improve its conditions since even five-star cuisine can be overshadowed in a dining room filled to the gills. (The Wyndham Hotel, 2222 Stemmons. 631-2222. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 6-11; Sun brunch: 11-3. Reservations recommended. AII credit cards. $$$)
The Magic Flute. This casual continental restaurant’s personality is still in the “wonder years” – the formative stages. We were served dainty entrées with viscid sideshows and French onion soup with barely a trace of the delicious stringy cheese we thought was standard with the dish. The tablecloths looked as though they had been slept in, but aside from that, The Magic Flute is an attractive addition to Greenville Avenue, with green café curtains, fabric-covered walls and an assortment of hanging baskets and corn plants. The flute/jazz recordings are relaxing, and the fare is inexpensive. But the ladies’ special spinach casserole was a disappointment – filled with pockets of sour cream and average white and yellow cheeses, which the diner was left to blend into the spinach herself. The filet of sole tasted as though it had been doused with hickory sauce. Another evening, we tried a grilled shrimp kebab that was preceded by an order of chewy, tasteless escargots. The mushroom soup was bland and over-salted, and the peas appeared to be fresh from the freezer. And although we knew we were eating in a restaurant staffed by gallant foreign waiters, we could have sworn that before us lay quite American French fries. To top off our lunch, the waiter tapped a companion gently on the shoulder midway through our meal and whispered: “Excuse me, sir, the tow truck is here.” It seems that the parking lot we finally settled on -after finding nothing available near the restaurant -was privy only to Republican Party Headquarters visitors. With such a great location, The Magic Flute has potential, but so far that’s about all. (5002 Greenville. 368-8691. Daily: 11 a.m.-midnight. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)
Mozart’s. There is nothing run-of-the-mill about a fine Viennese restaurant. One does not pull up to the table and drawl down one’s nose at the waiter: “I’ll have the kalbsvoressen mit wurzelgemuse mit gemischter salatteller… and ranch-style dressing.” In Dallas there are fewer than five such restaurants, including the Swiss variations. Mozart’s is the newest of the Deutsch, and it gives the city’s best (Belvedere or The Chimney, depending on the phase of the moon) a new challenge. The subtly mirrored, gracious dining room in the new Sheraton Park Central is furnished with dainty pink linen tablecloths and (we’d swear) the same delicate, flowered china we’ve always admired at L’Ambiance. For $6.25, we sampled nine different hors d’oeuvres from Mozart’s appetizer wagon, including salmon with fresh capers and cream cheese, smoked oysters and an interesting artichoke and shrimp salad. The gemischter salatteller turned out to be a fancy salad-barlike combination of several different vegetable and pasta salads. It was only average; we should have saved room for what was to come. The rinder lendenschnitte habs-burg, a forgivably tough filet mignon topped with tasty goose liver and juicy mushrooms, was very filling, and the combination of flavors was extraordinary. The cordon bleu consisted of a delicate crust and tender veal. And the side dishes at Mozart’s were served in wonderfully ample German portions. We enjoyed mixed marinated vegetables and fresh spatzle (sautéed noodles). The verdict on Mozart’s is this: We expect the food will improve as the restaurant matures; it’s already up to par with its competitors. But for now, the fine, friendly service and rare brand of relaxing elegance make us declare our first meal at Mozart’s a success. (Sheraton Park Central, 12720 Merit. 385-3000. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: daily 6-10:30. All credit cards. $$$)
Now That’s Italian. This, the newest of Cedar Springs’ artsy little eateries, was barely a week old when we visited. Usually, that’s a bad move. It’s often wiser to let a place get its feet on the ground before barging in and passing judgment. But in this case, the restaurant was ready. We enjoyed some creamy onion soup, grease-less beer-batter-fried mushrooms and polenta (a concoction made from deep-fried cornmeal served with lots of tomatoey marinara sauce). Polenta may sound unappetizing, but it was so good that an extra serving might make a nice entree. Our main courses, chosen from the small menu, were a whole-wheat pizza for one, vegetarian lasagna, a meatball sandwich and a trip to the soup-and-salad bar. As toppers for the pizza, we chose artichoke hearts and Italian sausage. The combination was wonderful, but it was almost overwhelmed by all the hot mozzarella. The vegetarian lasagna had a smaller assortment of vegetables than we had hoped, but what was there was fresh and crisp. The meatball sandwich was the only true disappointment: The meat was dry, and the sandwich itself was too soggy to pick up and eat. But overall, Now That’s Italian is promising, and the decor (hi-tech) is pleasant and breezy. We especially like the logo of the Dallas skyline, including the leaning tower of Reunion. (3851 Cedar Springs. 522-2340. Mon-Thur 11 a.m.-midnight, Fri & Sat 11-2 a.m. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)
Bamboo Pavilion. This 3-month-old sister of Szechuan Pavilion is already a sizzling success in our book -so much so that we’ll overlook the sometimes absent-minded, slow service; the ridiculous collection of Muzak and the standard Chinese-zodiac place mats. We began a delightful meal with stir-fried minced chicken sautéed with black mushrooms and the freshest, crispiest water chestnuts ever to grace a wok, served with two pancakes. The result, rolled for us by our waitress, was something like an Oriental burrito and was simply delicious. Theking crab with corn soup looked pretty,with egg whites strewn across the top, andtasted hearty, but the corn, mushroomsand green peppers far outnumbered thecrab. Panda’s Prawns sounded too sweet- the menu describes them as Gulfshrimp marinated in wine and honey anddeep-fried -but they were crunchy andleft us feeling like another of Bamboo’schefs suggestions: a “Happy Family.”Bamboo does a good job of spicing itsdishes per request; the obvious key to itsexcellence is freshness down to every detail. But, as far as we can tell, no one atBamboo knows the meaning of expeditious service. (1790 Promenade Centerbetween Belt Line and Arapaho. 680-0599. Daily: Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m.-10:30p.m., Sat & Sun noon-10:30 p.m. AE, V,MC, DC. $$)
RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS
These restaurants represent the best in Dallas and Fort Worth dining.
These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion in this directory has nothing whatsoever to do with paid advertising.
The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They indicate only a general price range.
$ Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.
$$ Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.
$$$ Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $20 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.
$$$$ Very expensive.
Credit card notations: MC/MasterCard, V/Visa, AE/American Express. DC/Diners Club. CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” indicates that all five are accepted.
CONTINENTAL
Agnew’s. Of the scores of new restaurants in the northern oasis beyond LBJ, the most welcome addition must be Agnew’s in Adelstein Plaza (north of Belt Line). Although not extensive, the dinner menu offers a tantalizing array of appetizers, entrees and desserts. Of the five entrees we sampled, three were outstanding, one was excellent and the last was very good. One noteworthy entree is the sliced breast of duck and drumstick served with pink peppercorn sauce. The lamb is also impeccable. The elaborate pastry cart offers several outstanding dessert selections, but it’s doubtful that any mere pastry could outshine Agnew’s white chocolate mousse with strawberries. (15501 Dallas N Pkwy in Adelstein Plaza. Suite 300. 458-0702. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat seatings at 6:30 & 9:30 p.m. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$$)
Bagatelle. Dallas abounds with beautiful restaurants and good food, but rarely is excellence the rule of thumb. Bagatelle, however, seems comfortable with quality. The menu offers some out-of-the-ordinary fowl entrees such as stuffed quail and Long Island duckling. We enjoyed several large, meaty shrimp in garlic butter in the crevettes Bagatelle. The beef is tender and especially good when served with artichoke hearts and sliced mush-rooms or when flambéed with cognac and pepper sauce. The chocolate mousse “flavored” with amaretto was quite the final act. (4925 Greenville. 692-8224. Lunch: 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11: Sunday brunch: 10:30-2. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
Belvedere. The red quilted booths are plush; the antique furnishings, lush; and the dinner music, classical. The Belvedere serves basically the same kind of delicious Swiss-Austrian food as its older sister, The Chimney. The veal (the restaurant’s specialty) approaches L’Ambiance’s in excellence, and the beef is tender; but the light, spirited sauces make the meal. (4242 Lomo Alto. 528-6510. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)
Café de Paris. Here you’ll find continental cuisine served in a comfortable country-French atmosphere. Offerings include tender beef bourguig-nonne, salmon béarnaise covered with a tasty sauce, duck with melon and a French onion soup that is easily one of the best in town. The brie soup is not to be missed. Dessert highlights are the fruit tart (served warm with fresh whipped cream) and the praline pie, (The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh. 653-1027. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sat 5:30-11:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
Cafe Royal. The surroundings here are as exquisite as the Mozart played by the pianist during dinner. Good bets are scallops in pepper sauce-a fine appetizer-and such nouvelle cuisine entrees as flavorful duckling supreme and piquant veal steak with lime butter. Service can be slow. (Plaza of the Americas, 650 N Pearl. 747-7222. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner: Mon-Thur 6:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 6:30-11. Reservations recommended. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$)
Calluaud’s. Some of the dishes on Calluaud’s menu qualify as “best in the city” or in some cases, “only such dish in the city.” Prime examples include veal in a creamy hazelnut sauce, deliciously seasoned turbot with champagne and truffles, scallops, filet en croute and the salmon en croute. The delicate lobster souffle and garlicky escargots de bourgogne are excellent openers. Lovely terra-cotta and cream-colored surroundings are quietly elegant, as is the service. (2619 McKinney. 823-5380. Mon-Thur 6-10pm, Fri&Sat seating sat 7and9:30pm. Closed Sun. Reservations. Jackets and ties required. MC, V, AE. $$$$)
Chloe. Once you get past the gorgeous glass front doors and are almost out of earshot of the blaring stereo system, you can enjoy a splendid four-course dinner here. The lobster mousse and the oysters and escargots with spinach are both fine openers. Next try a baby bibb with leeks salad or a steaming bowl of “soup of the seas.” For the main course, the filet of sea bass with beluga caviar is sinfully indulgent, and the duck with black currants is moist and tender with just the right touch of sweet currants. For dessert, the white-chocolate mousse is rich but light, and the amaretto souffle is heavenly. (8854 N Central Expwy in NorthPark East. 361-9996. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Fri 6-10, Sat 6-11; Sun brunch: noon-3. All credit cards. $$$$)
Enjolle. Enjolie joins the growing list of Dallas’ finer restaurants, serving innovative and ambitious cuisine in an elegant but comfortable setting. The menu offers superior variations on culinary standards- chicken with crayfish, pepper steak, veal with mushrooms, medallions of lamb with tarragon sauce-as well as more unusual fare for the more audacious- roast pigeon, sweetbreads, pheasant mousse. Complimentary cheeses are served after the seafood entrees, so if you want dessert, be judicious. And you will want dessert. (Mandalay Four Seasons Hotel. 221 S Colinas Blvd, Irving. 556-0800. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)
Francisco’s. Francisco’s, although not the same caliber as the best of the continental restaurants, is still good and reasonably priced. Soups are the high point on the menu. Clear mushroom soup, with mushrooms floating in consomme and topped with light pastry, is superb. Minestrone, a soup of the day, is almost as good. And the tournedos is a quality entree. For lunch, the chef’s salad is commendable. (2917 Fairmount. 749-0906. Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri 5:30-11; Sat seatings at 7 & 9. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)
The French Room. The good news is that despite stiff competition from younger luminaries such as Agnew’s and Enjolie, The French Room retains its status as crowning glory among the many fine restaurants in Dallas. The quality of cuisine is, to date, unrivaled. In fact, while savoring succulent braised lobster and tenderloin of lamb, we doubted we could have fared better. Every accouterment, from the ashtray with its tiny painted porcelain top to the single burning taper and gleaming, seemingly untouchable silver was well-chosen. One expects “fine dining” at a five-star restaurant, but we’ve seen many a harried or snobbish waiter ruin an occasion of import or an otherwise delectable meal. The French Room sees to it that along with its superb cuisine comes service that aims to make each diner feel like a member of the first estate. Several adept waiters hover about each table, but their movements are so graceful and subdued that they never encroach upon the privacy of their patrons. Although the menu selections hold their own. it’s probably best to order from among the specials, and we suspect that even the most expensive menu item is worth its price. We ordered each course of our meal from among the specials of the day and were never disappointed. The duck salad was large enough to have been a meal in itself; each sumptuous bite was heavenly. For dessert, the fruit melange topped with a creamy sauce and the tart raspberry pastry served in a caramel sauce were wonderful, but perhaps too rich. Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200, ext 191. Reservations required. Jackets and ties required. Mon-Sat 6-10 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$$)
Gallé. Watch out, French Room. Move over, Cal-luaud’s. Gallé has arrived, and our impression is most favorable. Everything from the atmosphere to the after-dinner coffee in this Lincoln Radisson Hotel restaurant was prepared and presented to near perfection. For appetizers, the shining star is the cold hors d’oeuvres tray. Though quite expensive for an appetizer ($14), it was truly a treat. The watercress salad with walnut oil was very simple but was perhaps the most elegant salad offering. More than 15 entrees are offered, including seafood, fowl, rabbit and beef. The sweetbreads with morels were fabulous-tender, flavorful and served in a smooth brown sauce. (Lincoln Radisson Hotel, Lincoln Center, 5410 LBJ Frwy. 934-8400. Mon-Fri 6-11; Sat 6-11:30. Reservations requested. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$)
The Garden Court. This Melrose restaurant proves that with age can come beauty and grace. The 59-year-old hotel has been born again, and the mix of art deco and traditional styling in this bright, curtain-less black and white marble-floored room makes for a cheery lunch or romantic dinner. The rich, moist fudge-nut cake makes it difficult to choose a sensible entree, but a bowl of seafood chowder crowded with great hunks of fish and fresh vegetables and a crisp Garden Court salad makes a perfect lunch. (3075 Oak Lawn. 521-5151. Breakfast: Mon-Fri 6:30-11; lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11, Sun 6-9; brunch: Sat 6:30-2:30, Sun 7-3. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
Hearthstone Manor. Believe it or not, it’s a good idea to get in your car in traffic-clogged Dallas and drive the 30 or so minutes it will take to wind up (in hopes of winding down) on Main Street in Lewisville. The food at Hearthstone is basic and wonderful, for the most part. The hot homemade bread is hard to beat, and Hearthstone serves a variety of muffins and rolls. Steamy baked potatoes in full dress and all-American entrees such as filet mignon, shrimp, snapper and veal make for a wholesome, memorable meal. (208 E Main, Lewisville. 221-4515. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Tue-Sat 5:30-10; Sun brunch: 11-2. MC, V,AE, DC. $$$)
Jean Claude. In 1977, Jean Claude began serving haute cuisine on a basis the city hadn’t seen before. No menus, no advertising, reservations-only seating. Now Jean Claude is something of a haute-cui-sine shrine for most astute Dallasites. For $34.50 per person, diners can have a complete meal with entrees such as lobster in a light cream sauce, salmon menuiner or duck roasted in ginger sauce, not to mention excellent choices of veal. And the dessert soufflés-ahh. (2404 Cedar Springs. 653-1823. Tue-Sat seatings at 6 and 9 pm. Reservations required. Jackets and ties required. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$$)
L’Ambiance. This is definitely the best continental food you’ll ever eat in a converted gas station. Salads are impeccable; soups are fresh and flavorful. Recommended entrees are the medallions of veal with mushroom puree and the pepper-sauced filet mignon. When lobster bisque is available, be sure to try it. The pastry selection is varied and gorgeous. (2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6:30-10, Fri & Sat 6:30-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)
L’Entrecote. The dining experience here is exalted to the utmost-each table is attended by a captain, a waiter, as many as three assistants and a wine steward. Happily, the cuisine is on a par with the rich, subtle surroundings. The delicately seasoned escargots topped with light pastry were some of the best we’ve ever tasted. And the terrine of pheasant with pistachios complemented by mandarin oranges was smooth and slightly tart. The waiter displayed deft skill in preparing the wilted spinach salad with walnuts; it was a perfect blend of sweet and sour. For the finishing touch, the white and dark chocolate mousse was sinfully rich. (Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: daily 6-10:30. Reservations required. All credit cards. $$$$)
Les Saisons. Here you’ll get what restaurant critics call a “dining experience.” The food is French, the waiters are French (or at least good impersonators) and the decor is set approximately in turnof-the-century suburban Paris. Meals at Les Saisons are traditional, expensive and predictably excellent, with such interesting twists such as roast Cornish hen with tarragon sauce, braised sweetbreads and sirloin saute with Roquefort cheese and green peppercorns. (165 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 528-1102. Sun-Thur 11:30 am-11 pm, Fri &Sat 11:30 am-midnight. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
The Mansion. The place to see and be seen in Dallas, the Mansion offers an elegant decor often supplemented by dining celebrities. Menu standouts include the tortilla soup, the béarnaise sauce that tops the red snapper and the pate that garnishes the duck with brown sauce. A chef from The Jockey Club in Washington has added soft-shell crab to the house specialties. (2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Breakfast: daily 7-10:30; lunch: Mon-Fri noon-2:30; brunch: Sat noon-2:30 & Sun 11-2:30; tea: Mon-Fri 3-5:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11; supper: Mon-Thur 10:30-midnight, Fri & Sat 11-midnight. Reservations. Jackets and ties required. MC, V. AE, DC. $$$$)
Maple Street East. This handsome Victorian house has been a favorite dining spot since it opened, even though the food was a little uneven at first. Now, all that’s straightened out. and Maple Street East is consistently good. The salads are delicious, and the fettuccine verde is especially good for lunch, as is the crab, bacon and avocado sandwich. For dinner, try the tournedos, with English trifle for dessert. (2508 Maple. 698-0345. Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11; Sun brunch: 11:30-2:30. MC, V, AE. $$$)
Patry’s. This can be an excellent place to have a quiet and elegant continental dinner, provided you arrive when the place is not too crowded. Pepper steak, duck a I’orange, lamb chops and veal in lemon butter are consistently tasty entrees. The cream of broccoli soup is among the best in the city. One of Patry’s stronger points is its extensive wine list, which complements the menu. (2504 McKinney. 748-3754. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun, Tue-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Mon. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$.)
Pyramid Room. This is Dallas’ old money’s old fave, and try as we might to be impudent and critical, we’re speechless with admiration for this flashy Fairmont restaurant that reminds us of a little of Frank Sinatra and Tutankhamen. Pyramid diners have nothing left to prove, and the visibility factor- that new-right way of thinking that you must be able to see and be seen-doesn’t hold here; the highback chairs make your meal a private celebration. The best thing about the Pyramid is that even amid all the poshness, there’s real relaxation and gorgeous, delicious food that lends a mood all its own. The Pyramid Room hired a new executive chef, R.J. Lukas, soon after our visit, and we’re anxious to taste his cuisine soon. But the roast pheasant cooked with mango that we had on our last visit would be hard to top. And the vegetables-wonderful, tender asparagus and some artichoke bottoms stuffed with celery-were top-notch. The petits-four tree of glazed cakes and fruits served before we even ordered dessert was a magical ending to a very fine meal. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross at Akard. 748-7258. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: daily 6-11. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)
ETHIOPIAN
The Blue Nile. Don’t be intimidated by the names of the menu items here; almost everything is stewlike and spicy and good. Expect the unexpected: The food is served on pizza pans, and no silverware is provided. In Ethiopia, you eat with the right hand, and injera (Ethiopian bread that is spongy and tastes slightly sour) is used as an eating utensil. For the newcomer, The Blue Nile’s combination plate offers an extensive sampling of traditional dishes including minchet abesh (finely chopped spiced beef), zilzil tibs (beef strips fried with a tangy sauce) and misser wott (lentil stew with herbs), (7242 Gaston. 324-0471. Tue-Sun noon-midnight. Closed Mon. AE, MC, V. $)
The Red Sea. The Oak Lawn area has just about everything, including one of Dallas’ Ethiopian restaurants. Here you can dine on such exotic-sounding items as doro wott (chicken spiced with hot pepper), yebeg wott (lamb stew with spiced butter and herbs) and potatoes and carrots cooked in curry. (2926 Oak Lawn. 528-8476. Daily 11-11. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)
GOURMET CARRYOUT
Beauregard’s. This tiny gourmet carryout/Euro-pean-style grocery carries a varied selection of fresh vegetables from around the world, homemade jams and jellies and an assortment of fresh-baked breads. In addition, owner Beauregard Detterman prepares meat pies to heat at home, ready-to-go pasta salads, pates and desserts. On one visit, we sampled a chicken pie with bell pepper, onion, tomato and zucchini-topped with mozzarella. When heated, the pie was a juicy blend of flavors that made a filling meal. The duck liver pate was a smooth, creamy and rich side dish. To finish the meal, we chose Beauregard’s dessert specialty: a chocolate cake made with French and Austrian chocolate marinated four days. This cake is for chocaholics only. (4603 W Lovers Lane. 351-0378. Mon-Sat 10 am-6:30 pm, Sun noon-5 pm. No credit cards. $$$)
Knox Street West. If you’re looking for a place to pick up fixings suitable for a lakeside picnic or a midnight rooftop feast, stop by Knox Street West. This small European-style carryout market sets the mood for a romantic occasion-there’s a fireplace, rustic old cabinetry and antique fixtures. The menu is limited and changes frequently, but that’s the charm of the place. When we visited, two outstanding entrees were available: chicken Dijon and a vegetable quiche. Desserts are winners, with the exception of the cheesecake, which, although flavorful, was a bit dry. A wide variety of wines and imported beers is available, as are several blends of coffee, ground fresh to order. (3374 Knox. 528-4140. Daily: 10 am-7 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)
Mirabelle. Mirabelle’s menu varies daily and is an incredibly inventive one. The pistachio-spiced country terrine is an excellent pate. Salads are offered in a wide range of combinations. A good standby is the tarragon chicken salad, and there’s always a pasta salad or two, some with seafood or meat. We tried a mixture of baby shells, peas and ham seasoned with fresh basil, which was very good, if you really love basil. Mirabelle’s crowning achievements are its desserts. The fresh plum and apple tarts are excellent, as is the sour cream cheesecake offered with a peach melba sauce. The cookies and bran muffins are tops and are well worth their hefty price. (74 Highland Park Village. 528-7589. Tue-Sat 10:30 am-7 pm; Sun & Mon noon-6. All credit cards. $$$)
The Winery. Amid the vast wine stock at this shop adjacent to Jean Claude is a display case full of edible goodies perfect for eating in or carrying out. The emphasis is on freshly prepared salads and desserts, home-baked breads and cheeses-including hard-to-find varieties such as mozzarella rolled with prosciutto. Caterer Nancy Beckham will make sandwich or cheese trays, antipasto plates, dips and hors d’oeuvres for parties-or you can sample her hearty soups and sandwiches with a glass of wine on the spot. (2404 Cedar Springs at Maple. 749-0250. Mon-Sat 10 am-7 pm, Sun 1-6 pm. Complimentary wine tasting every Sun 4-6 pm. MC, V, AE. $$$)
INDIAN
India House. Dinner service is extremely attentive in this establishment where the selections are not exactly part of the American culinary mainstream. Fresh-from-the-oven breads and appetizers such as the chicken chat are superb. Both the tandoori chicken and beef (marinated delights served with shovel-sized portions of fluffy rice) are tasty and extremely filling. The cheese balls in sweet milk are perfect for dessert. (5422 E Mockingbird. 823-1000. Lunch:daily 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. All credit cards. $$)
Kebab-N-Kurry. If you’re looking for something new and you’ve never tried Indian food, this is the perfect atmosphere in which to learn. The place is small, the waiters are friendly and very knowledgeable about Indian food and its history, and the food is authentic. The chicken chat is a tasty appetizer, as are the samosas (turnover-type pastries stuffed with either vegetables or meat). And a wide assortment of Indian breads is offered as well. (401 N Central Expwy, Suite 300. Richardson. 231-5556. Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 5:30-10:30; brunch: Sat & Sun 11:30-2:30. Reservations. MC. V. AE. $)
Sahib. Every time we go to Sahib we’re delighted by how pretty it is; the green, peach and bamboo decor and the gentle Indian music relaxes us. Maharaja Sahib’s Mughlai Biryani is our favorite-lamb cooked with herbs and mixed with long-grain Indian rice, saffron, nuts, raisins and eggs. It tastes even better with some sweet mango chutney and an order of tandoori roti (Indian whole-wheat bread). Service at Sahib can be aggressive, so just remember that you can turn down the elephant’s memory (a pina coladalike drink) and the mango ice cream, but enjoy the advice-waiters will tell you exactly what to expect from each dish. (Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy. 987-2301. Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 5:30-11. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)
Tanjore. At this small North Dallas Indian restaurant, the Middle Eastern mood comes through loud and clear with piped-in Hindi music and the tastes and smells of curry, cumin, cinnamon and coriander. Tanjore offers a large selection of vegetarian dishes, poultry, seafood and lamb and beef specialties. We settled on an order of lamb mugali (chunks of tender lamb in a creamy sauce with nuts) and shahi korma (boneless chicken cooked in curry with butter, cream and almonds). The sauce was spiced mildly -but not meekly-in both dishes. For something unusual, try a Tanjorita: a soothing whipped yogurt drink. (Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center, 5409 Belt Line. 960-0070. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, Sat 11:30-3; Sun brunch: 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 6-10. BYOB; setups available. All credit cards. $$)
ITALIAN
Bugatti. Bugatti offers consistently superior homemade pasta, the quintessential element for any good Italian restaurant. But Bugatti goes far beyond that. The chef handles veal as well as any of his Dallas contemporaries, and the homemade soups are among the best in the city. Other standouts include the tortellini alla crema (homemade doughnut-shaped pasta shells stuffed with veal and engulfed in a rich white cream sauce), the crab cannelloni and the fettuccine della casa. (2574 Walnut Hill. 350-2470. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)
Campisi’s. In a dark room lined with celebrity photos is served the food that has made Campisi’s a Dallas institution: veal marsala with rich mushroom sauce, fettuccine, garlic toast and Campisi’s famous rectangular pizza exemplify its solid Italian cooking. (5670 E Mockingbird. 8270355. 827-7711. Mon-Fri 11 am-midnight, Sat 11-12:30am, Sun noon-midnight. Reservations for six or more. No credit cards: personal checks accepted. $$)
DiPalma. It’s still hard to resist this festive restaurant/food store and its wide array of pastas, despite spotty service and inflated prices. DiPalma features several flavorful dishes not found at other Italian establishments, such as chicken lasagna and lemon garlic chicken, as well as the more traditional Italian fare. For an adventurous and rewarding lunch, try the pasta salad sampler. And the incredible assortment of Italian pastries is as good as it looks. (1520 Greenville. 824-4500. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10:30 pm, Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)
La Tosca. Elegant, understated surroundings and food equally as tasteful greet diners at La Tosca. Octopus salad and pepata di vongole or cozze (a clam dish) stand out on a menu that includes excellent pasta (paglio e fieno and cannelloni are delicious), scaloppine al marsala and involtini nicola, two veal dishes. Another unusual treat worth sampling is the cold, thinly sliced veal with tuna sauce. Noteworthy desserts include progitterol al cioccolato (a cream-filled pastry) and ice cream with Strega, an Italian liqueur. (7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: Tue-Thur & Sun 5:30-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 pm. Closed Mon. No dinner reservations on weekends. All credit cards. $$$)
La Trattoria Lombardi. This place may never be as good as the old Lombardi’s on McKinney, but when it is at its best, the pasta is inspirational. Also offered are superior soups (clam chowder and minestrone excel), fine veal dishes (especially the veal with lemon butter, veal marsala and saltimbocca Ro-mana) and first-rate tarts and other desserts, all with Lombardi’s traditionally good service. (2916 Hall. 823-6040. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)
Caruso’s. If you like arias with your antipasto, Caruso’s singing waiters will gladly oblige you. The Italian selections include basic pasta and veal dishes, and steaks are available. Wine lovers will appreciate Caruso’s bottomless glass; lovers will enjoy the candle-lit booths. (706 Medallion Center, Northwest Hwy at Skillman. 691-9944. Sun-Thur 5:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Cremona Ristorante Italiano and Deli. Park your car on the dead-end street, wind your way around the little junque stores, find a table near a window and prepare yourself for a no-nonsense Italian meal. The ladder-back chairs, wooden blinds and starched white tablecloths lend country-inn romance. The pasta is homemade, and the sauces are innovative, delicate and subtle. You’ll relish the fresh butter and cream flavors. (2600 Woodrow, between Cedar Springs and Routh. 742-4330. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Tue-Sun 6-10:30. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$)
Cunze’s. Although it may look suspiciously like another faceless pizza shack. Cunze’s is far from it. What you’ll find here is serious Italian food-veal scallopine, linguine with clams, fresh calamari (squid). Entrees come with the traditional green salad and a steaming side of pasta in either a garlic or tomato sauce. The veal and shrimp combination is an especially tasty entrée-thin slices of tender veal sautéed with scampi in butter, lemon and garlic. As for atmosphere, Cunze’s interior is about as classy as Mama’s kitchen; but somehow the result is almost romantic. (6101 Greenville. 369-5747. Mon-Sat 5-11 pm, Sun 5-10 pm. MC, V, AE. $$$)
Lurtino’s. The atmosphere at Lurtino’s is fairly posh, but the waiters aren’t stuffy. We began our meal with a wonderful house specialty, sausage and peppers neopolitan. Another good bet is the scungilli Genovese (snails sautéed in a cream sauce). The house salad is the typical lettuce and tomatoes, but the entrees are grand. A fine selection of pastas is available, the best of which is the tagliarini with white clam sauce. Lurtino’s also offers a number of veal dishes. Desserts get mixed reviews. (13601 Preston Road, Suite 22. 661-9766. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
Prego Pasta House. As can be determined after a glance at the menu, the owner of Prego, Joe Bar-raco, is also the manager of Campisi’s. In many cases, we found the food at Prego to be similar to Campisi’s, but the atmosphere and service are generally better. For appetizers, the artichoke hearts and scampi were passable but a bit blah-not much garlic or imagination. The fried provolone was excellent, though. Our only complaint is that the cheese was a bit overbreaded. As a general rule of thumb, order the authentic Italian specialties; they’re all top-notch. The veal cutlet parmigiana is excellent, as is the lasagna. Pizza is the same as Campisi’s: a thin, tasty crust with oodles of rich, thick Italian topping. (4930 Greenville. 363-9204. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight, Sun noon-11 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)
Ristorante Lombardi. With this latest addition in Adelstein Plaza. Lombardi’s continues its tradition of offering great Italian cuisine. Try the specialty of the house appetizer (delizia tricolore), a sampling of some of Lombardi’s pasta, or steamed clams served with a garlic, white-wine and lemon sauce. As entrees, the sea bass with mixed seafood is flavorful and rich; the veal scaloppine, tender and buttery. The juicy lamb chops are prepared in a lightly seasoned breading and are sautéed with red peppers, onions and black olives. Don’t pass up dessert- Lombardi’s smooth, subtle chocolate rum cake is a real treat (15501 Dallas Pkwy at Arapaho. 458-8822. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 5:30-11; Sun brunch: 11-3. All credit cards. $$$)
Sergio and Luciano. The setting here is not altogether satisfying-it’s half upstairs, half downstairs, and most of the action is on the upper floor. But the food is superb. Calamari-fried at lunch and served in a hot, spicy broth as an appetizer at dinner-is excellent. So is the tortellini alla panna, offered as a first course in small portions that leave room for more. If you want pasta, you can’t improve on the fettuccine with white clam sauce. The vegetables are carefully prepared, and Sergio and Luciano serves real Italian hard rolls. (4900 Belt Line, Suite 250. 387-4441. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 6-11. All credit cards. $$$)
Sergio’s. Seven fine veal dishes and an array of homemade pasta highlight Sergio’s innovative, elegant menu. Our tagliarini salmone-pasta in a salmon sauce-was rich and flavorful without being heavy. The assorted hot appetizers, including shrimp, mussels and squid, were savory and delicate. The tentazione salad of avocado, mangoes and papayas served with walnuts and lime juice dressing made for the perfect light lunch. Sergio’s dining room is semiformal, and its prices are surprisingly reasonable. (The Quadrangle, Suite 235, 2800 Routh. 742-3872. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri &Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)
MEXICAN
Adellna’s. This tiny hole-in-the-wall in Preston Center dishes up wonderful huevos rancheros for breakfast plus other Mexican morning specialties such as migas (eggs scrambled with tortilla bits, cheese and tomatoes) and huevos con chorizo. The accompanying potatoes are good and hearty. For lunch, try the tamales, which are outstanding, or the fajitas (grilled strips of beef in a flour tortilla with lettuce and tomato). Adelina’s also caters any night except Thursday, with a maximum of 50 guests. (6027 Berkshire Lane. 363-8680. Mon-Sat 8 am-3 pm, Thur 6 am-9 pm. No credit cards. $).
Café Cancun. Café Cancun serves the finest Mexico City-style food in town. The standout menu items are too numerous to sample during one visit, but there are a few items you shouldn’t miss. Try the corn soup, which is thick with cheese and corn-meal, and the enchiladas verdes (chicken or cheese enchiladas with spicy green tomatillo sauce). Then sample the tacos al carbon, the quesadillas Cancun or the nachos Cancun (black beans, guacamole, cheese and sour cream). (4131 Lomo Alto. 559-4011. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri 11 am-midnight, Sat 5 pm-midnight, Sun noon- 10 pm. No reservations. AE, MC, V. $$)
Chiqulta. While this isn’t a Tex-Mex, pinata-stringing establishment, there are enough clothless tables around to make those of us who enjoy those places feel at home. We began our meal with the ironclad test: nachos, the bean and cheese variety. We argued over their quality; some of our more critical companions called the nachos we were served “workmanlike and plodding.” They lacked, the friends said, the lilt that would have made them worthy of their title. We were of one mind, however, about the entrees. All were hot and fresh and packed with high quality beef and chicken. The polio en crema, strips of chicken flavored with sour cream and walnuts, and a pounded chicken dish broiled over a hickory fire were both unusual and good, but a puff taco was tasteless and stale. We also had some tangy tortilla soup, some well-spiced guaca-mole and crisp zucchini with just the right touch of paprika. (3810 Congress off Oak Lawn. 521-0721. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Closed Sunday. All credit cards. $$)
Guadalajara. This Ross Avenue hole-in-the-wall has made itself respectable: a new door, new plate-glass windows and a brightly striped awning. We were put off at first, nostalgic about the days when roach and man ate side by side, but Guadalajara is still a far cry from elegant. Service was quicker than in the past, and all our Tex-Mex was prepared just the way we like it. Sombreros off to Guadalajara for realizing that the charm of sleaze lasts only so long. (3308 Ross. 823-9340. Tue-Fri 11-3:30 am, Sat 9-3:30 am. Closed Mon. V, MC. $)
Herrera. Despite the fact that this dumpy little restaurant on Maple Avenue has more customers than it can possibly serve, the food and the service have remained consistently good. Suggestions include the Jimmy’s special or the Pepe’s special, both of which are virtual Tex-Mex smorgasbords. The only bad news is that Herrera’s has no liquor license, so bring enough beer to carry you through the wait and the meal. (3902 Maple. 526-9427. Mon, Wed & Thur 9 am-8 pm, Fri-Sun till 10. Closed Tue. No reservations. No credit cards. $)
Javier’s. Don’t visit this “gourmet Mexican” restaurant when you’re in the mood for Tex-Mex because you’ll leave with an aching in your heart for retried beans and rice. But the alternatives here are undoubtedly a better choice. You’ll leave Javier’s filled with delicious beef, seafood or chicken dishes, desserts other than pralines and an actual vegetable. The tortilla soup is crowded with cheese; great, floating avocado slabs; and smooth pasilla chiles. The nachos are fine, but not so unusual since black beans and white cheese have caught on even in Tex-Mex hot spots. But Javier’s is in the big leagues for what it does to shrimp-which are big and meaty and sautéed in a diablo sauce (a blend of coffee, orange juice and spices). The mushroom crepes served with corazon de filete were more exciting than the beef, but the beef wasn’t half bad. For dessert, you can’t avoid the cajeta sauce-it comes on the cheesecake and on the crepes flambé and it’s dished over the ice cream. It’s best on the ice cream. (4912 Cole. 521-4211. Sun-Thur 5:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 pm. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)
La Calle Doce. Gracefully housed in a converted residence on 12th Street, La Calle Doce features a menu of seafood and steak specialties prepared Mexico City-style, as well as Tex-Mex basics. The atmosphere is relaxed and homey; the service, friendly and fast; the food, carefully prepared and well-presented. (415 W 12th. 941-4304. Mon-Thur 11 am-9 pm, Fri 11 am-10 pm, Sat noon-10 pm, Sun noon-6 pm. AE, MC, V. $$)
On The Border. On the Border calls itself a “South Texas cafe, ” offering “the best mesquite-broiled foods of both Texas and Mexico.” We tried the Highland Park nachos, which were thick with two cheeses, onions, carrots-the works-including generous strips of mesquite-broiled beef. The tacos al carbon, filled with mesquite-broiled steak strips, had a good flavor but were a bit tough. Our taco salad was delicious and enormous, and the vegetarian sandwich with avocado and sprouts was perfect for lunch. On The Border also serves a meaty, cheesy, very hearty bowl of chili and some thick, juicy burgers. (3300 Knox. 528-5900. Sun & Mon 11:30 am-10 pm, Tue-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sal 11:30 arn-11 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Pepe’s Café. Pepe’s is a marriage of good basic Tex-Mex and unpretentious but gracious surroundings and service. The owner and employees manage authentic fare of everyday Mexicana without the usual dirty-Formica atmosphere of such establishments. The nachos, flautas and pork dishes are all delicious. (3011 Routh. 698-9445. Mon-Fri 10:30am-2:30 pm & 5:30-10 pm. Sat 10:30 am-10 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)
Raphael’s. We’ve grown suspicious of civilized Mexican restaurants, guessing that their best is only fresh from the freezer. But Raphael’s throws a kink in this philosophy. The food is better than average, the surroundings are pleasant and the prices are not much higher than at many of our favorite dives. Strong points are the appetizers (including quesa-dillas) and the desserts. (3701 McKinney. 521-9640. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Sat noon-10;30 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)
ORIENTAL
Asuka. True gastronomes will admit to spending a good deal of their lives looking at Duncan Hines and restaurant ads, wishing for a bite of this or that delectable. Asuka makes such people’s dreams come true, for the menu itself is a photo album of the restaurant’s offerings. We stuck with an old favorite, an Ishiyaki Kaiseki dinner that began with some appetizers for the adventurous. We wouldn’t have minded missing these small servings of raw tuna, red cabbage and seafood that preceded our meal; they seemed to be present mostly for their shock value. But the next course, a huge, sizzling platter of beef and vegetables served over stone pebbles, was a flavorful, juicy blend of tender meat and crisp vegetables. The steam from the pebbles adds much to the taste of the dish and makes your dinner something like an evening at the sauna. We’re sure Asuka’s specialties are good for the complexion. (7136 Greenville. 363-3537. Lunch: Tue-Sun 11-2; dinner: Tue-Sun 6-10:30. Closed Mon. Reservations. AE, V, MC, DC. $$$$)
August Moon. The menu here is vast, so go early and read it carefully. We began with a pu pu tray with the lightest fried shrimp and won ton we’ve ever tasted. August Moon Seafood Splendor and August Moon Sizzling Plate were tremendous in size and seasoned just barely-and then only to highlight natural flavors. The individual tastes of the meats and vegetables were easily distinguished and not greasy-a difficult feat with so many ingredients presented en masse. And the service was polite but at times a bit hurried. (15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat 10:30 am-11 pm, Sun 10:30-10:30. Dim Sum served daily. Reservations for eight or more or lor special banquets. Bar by membership. AE, MC, V, DC. $$)
Forbidden City. This Chinese spot, next-door to Wilson’s and in the same shopping center as three other restaurants, should be welcomed by North Dallasites. The atmosphere is quietly elegant, and the food matches the decor. Everything on our pu pu tray-shrimp toast to won ton to ribs-was well-prepared and flavorful. The tofu was tender and pleasantly spongy as opposed to the standard recapped rubber-tire versions. Also try the chicken and walnuts. Our chicken was tender; the walnuts, crunchy -providing a perfect example of the complementary textures so important to Chinese cuisine. Beef with snow peas was a pleasant variation on the same theme; the tender beef wasn’t overcooked, and the snow peas were crisp. The service was efficient and friendly. (5290 Belt Line. 960-2999. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11-3 am, Sun noon-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Hunan Imperial. The difference between this Chinese restaurant and almost every other new Chinese restaurant begins with its extensive menu. There are offerings that are just not readily available at other Dallas Chinese restaurants-string beans with pork, for example. The beans we tasted were crisp and flavorful, with just a smidgen of pork flavor. Another dish we found both palate-pleasing and pretty was the shrimp with pine nuts. The vegetables and the pine nuts were crisp and crunchy; the shrimp, well-cooked but not tough or mushy; the barbecue ribs, tops. And the atmosphere, although not quite imperial, was at least subdued and conducive to fine dining. (The Corner Shopping Center, Walnut Hill and N Central Expwy. 363-3858. Sun-Thur noon-11 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30-2 am. AE, V, MC, DC. $$)
Peking Szechuan. We found ourselves in agreement with the praise other reviewers have heaped upon this place. Nothing-save a lard-loaded egg roll-was disappointing, and the service was pleasantly well-paced. The lamb with green onion and the scallops with hot garlic sauce were extremely nice -both contained fresh, neatly chopped ingredients that maintained their own distinctiveness and crunch. Although one entree contained canned mushrooms, we found the entrees as a whole a welcome change from the gummy, gooey dishes served at some establishments. (2560 W Northwest Hwy. 353-0129. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30am-11 pm. Sunday 11:30 am-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Plum Blossom. This review differs from many others listed under “Oriental” because words such as “elegance” and “charm” apply. Subtle scroll paintings, glittering tableware and well-mannered service set the mood for the somewhat flamboyantly presented meal, chosen from one of the three standard banquets (the least expensive of which has five courses). Almost every item of our Emperor’s Banquet tor two was exotic. Our appetizer-a 10-flavor chrysanthemum fire pot with seafood, chicken, beef, vegetables and noodles-at least bordered on the unusual; and we savored every delicate bite. We heard whispered complaints of high prices and limited quantity but were ourselves content with the number of different foods served in modest portions. After the fire pot came duck, then crab claws and shrimp in black-bean sauce, Chinese vegetables, sweet and sour pork, and fried custard for dessert, (Loews Anatole, 2201 Stemmons. 748-1200. Mon-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
Royal China. If anything improves the experience of dining here, it’s the unfailing courtesy of the staff and the personal care lavished on every diner. Not that the food needs a boost. Buck Kao’s royal prawn entrees are legendary, but lesser-known dishes such as curry chicken-moist slivers of fowl with carrot, celery, water chestnuts and onion-are always excellent. If you begin your meal with the three delicacies soup (laden with shrimp, scallops and chicken), take on a Chinese appetizer plate (the barbecued spareribs are great) and finish up with a dish such as beef with tomato or sliced chicken with mushroom and bamboo shoots, you won’t want to consider dessert. (201 Preston Royal Shopping Center 361-1771. Daily: 11:30 am-2:30 pm & 5:30-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Sakura. In many ways this Japanese restaurant is typical of all Japanese restaurants: Waitresses wear traditional costumes, dinner is prepared at the table, the decor is soothingly Oriental. Our waitress made suggestions about our orders and cooked our dinner before our eyes, never expecting us to drop all conversation and “ooh”and “ah” until she finished. We enjoyed a quiet, well-prepared meal selected from a vast menu including everything from shredded beef to sea urchin. Standards such as sushi and tempura are also very good. (7402 Greenville. 361-9282. Daily: 5:30-10:30 pm. All credit cards. Reservations. $$)
Sawatdee. If your culinary tastes are inclined toward the adventurous and experimental, this is truly an excellent restaurant in which to indulge. Among the specialties of the house worth noting are the red chicken curry, South Seas scallops and the dinner portion of moo satay. But be sure to clearly indicate to your waiter how spicy you like your food; otherwise you may be surprised or disappointed by the degree of seasoning. (4503 Greenville at Yale. 373-6138. Daily: 11:30-2:30 pm and 5:30-10:30 pm. AE, MC, V. $$)
Siam. Siam opened up new worlds for us when it brought Thai food to Dallas. For the uninitiated, Thai cuisine is often fiery hot, using peppers and curry sauces, and blends in several elements that separate it from spicy hot Chinese cooking such as Szechuan or Hunan. An excellent beginner is the moo-sar tey (pork strips on bamboo skewers served with a peanut sauce) and slices of cucumber and hot pepper. For an entree, try the gand ped-a rice dish with curry, bamboo shoots, coconut milk, mint leaves and your choice of pork, beef or chicken. Another standout is the pard Thai, a rice noodle dish with shrimp, pork, eggs, hot chili peppers, bean sprouts and green onions. (1730 W Mockingbird near Harry Hines. 631-5482. Mon-Thur 11 am-I0 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $)
Uncle Tai’s. When the venerable Uncle Tai (one of New York’s most celebrated Chinese chefs) left the Big Apple to settle in Houston several years ago, it was a decided gain for Texans who enjoy flawless, fiery Hunan cuisine. Specializing in the spicy, predominantly stir-fried concoctions of his native Shanghai, Uncle Tai creates dishes that please the palate while subtly expanding it. Chinese-food fans who equate environmental dinginess with authentic fare are also in for a surprise. Everything from the curved lacquer-red woodwork to the elegant and weighty flatware is plush and handsome. But the food is the real revelation. At the risk of waxing effusive, it would be hard to find a restaurant with more careful food preparation, imaginative dishes, courteous service or handsome surroundings. (Suite 3370. Galleria. 934-9998. Mon-Thur 11 am-10pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10:30 pm. MC, V. AE, DC. $$$)
Yunnan Dynasty. Probably the best Chinese restaurant in Dallas, Yunnan Dynasty is especially adept at hot and spicy dishes such as Yunnan spicy shrimp, shredded beef with hot pepper and black-bean sauce and diced chicken with hot pepper sauce. The chef’s special beef is also a crunchy delight. One of our all-time favorites is steamed fish, served whole, with black-bean sauce. For dessert, sesame bananas can’t be improved upon. (Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy, Suite 191. 739-1110. Sun-Thur 11:30 am-10pm. Fri & Sat noon-11 pm. AE, V, MC. DC. $$)
SEAFOOD
Banno Brothers. Listening to the raucous bleat of Dixieland jazz or watching an oyster shucker do his work, you could almost be in New Orleans. And you could practically drive there in the time it takes to get service at Banno’s on a busy Saturday night. But the wait is worth it, especially when endured with oysters on the half shell and the mollusk’s natural accompaniment: ice-cold beer. The broiled red snapper is buttery and nicely textured, while the crowded seafood salad makes a good meal for light eaters. Fried snapper, however, could just as well have been fried anything. The little touches are nicely done, with crunchy hush puppies (which, alas, do not come gratis) and a surprising tartar sauce with chopped onions. On the whole, Banno’s gives good weight-for the wait. (1516 Greenville. 821-1321. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri 11-11, Sal 5-11 pm. Sunday, gone fishin’. MC. V. $$)
Boston Sea Party. Before you pop in on this party, be sure you’re a confirmed seafood lover and that you’re mighty hungry. You’ll want to get your money’s worth ($22.95, prix fixe for dinner) and you’ll want to make sure you sample everything. The presentation here is a lot like Sunday brunch at some of the larger hotels around town, and it is as delectable as it is vast. We selected dinner from three different “piers.” The first pier was a sampler of appetizers -fresh oysters, smoked fish, caviar, salads and chowder. The second was an assortment of steamed oysters, meaty crab legs and shrimp. Then came the main course. Our particular sea party found the whole Maine lobster to be excellent, though a little less tender than the Australian lobster tail; and the char-broiled salmon was flaky and meaty. The dessert pier held an appealing selection of small servings of fresh fruits, cheeses, cheesecake, mousse and carrotcake. (13444 Preston. 239-7061. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-9:45, Fri & Sat 5-10:45, Sun 4:30-8:45. All credit cards. $$$)
Champagne Johnny’s. The feel here is one of the Florida Keys: potted palms, archways, sunset lighting. Champagne is the bartender’s specialty, and he offers a large variety. Seafood is the chef’s forte, and there’s a decent selection on that front, too. The poached oysters were an imaginative change from the usual cheese/spinach variations. The house salad consisted of romaine, bibb and iceberg lettuces, black olives and cheese. The scallops in garlic were tender, and the broiled salmon was excellently prepared. It was moist and came with ratatouille, a perfect complement to the subtlety of the salmon and scallops. Servings were large, and most diners probably aren’t going to want dessert. That’s just as well-Johnny’s cheesecake and homemade pies just don’t measure up to the rest of the fare. (2905 Greenville. 823-5800. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 5-midnight, Sat 11:30-1 am, Sun 11-11. All credit cards. $$$)
Hampton’s Seafood Market. On any given day, this small, quaint seafood oasis adjacent to the Farmer’s Market downtown offers approximately 50 different kinds of seafood for eating in or carrying out. The luncheon menu is limited-as is the seating (only two tables)-but the offerings are excellent. We ordered the salmon salad with cucumber sandwich and the swordfish salad with green pepper (both served on flaky croissants). Chunky, slightly tart coleslaw was a complementary side dish. For a taste of Cajun country cooking, try Hampton’s seafood gumbo. The Hampton salad is a delightful combination of shrimp, coleslaw, vegetables and two kinds of fish salads. Hampton’s also sells its own marinade for fish, beef or chicken; shrimp boil; and homemade red sauce and tartar sauce. (801 S Pearl. 742-4668. Tue-Fri 8 am-6 pm, Sat 7 am-6 pm, Sun 7 am-4 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)
Jozef’s. “Rough wood elegance” has become a seafood restaurant cliche, but we can think of no better way to describe this comfortable, unpretentious, yet very fine McKinney Avenue restaurant. Prices were reasonable, service was bright and we enjoyed every bite from the bread to the cheesecake. The clean, spicy Creole shark soup is worth trying. Jozef’s crab meat Remick and mushrooms (stuffed with crab meat) began our meal perfectly. Our lobster was moist, not overcooked, and was served with an unusually large steak. The chef’s special shrimp was beautifully served with mushrooms, shallots and a light creamy sauce. Our only complaint was with the vegetables-although they appeared to be fresh, they arrived cold. (2779 McKinney. 826-5560. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-70, Fri & Sat 6-11. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
Rocco Oyster Bar. If you can forget that we’re landlocked in Central Texas, there’s no less splendid place than Rocco’s to act like a drunken sailor and eat fresh seafood that still smacks of brine. But the food here tends to be a bit erratic. On one visit, our entrees were uniformly delightful: fresh sole alman-dine, soft-shell crab and the Big Mix-a brochette of shrimp, scallops, green pepper, tomato and oysters smoked until heated through but still moist. We weren’t as impressed on another trip- the sautéed scallops were a bit dry, and the sea bass was delivered raw. Chic industrial lighting and blue neon tubing make Rocco’s an exceptionally attractive place. (2520 Cedar Springs. 747-6226. Sun-Wed 11:30 am-11 pm, Thur-Sat 11-12:30 am. AE, MC, V. $$)
Seascape Inn. This seafood restaurant is one of Dallas’ finest eateries. We’ve never had a bad entree, and Chef Jean LaFont’s specialties are always just that-special treats. The Dover sole Veronique and the salmon in puff pastry are two wonderful selections. “Gracious” best sums up the service and atmosphere; it is elegant but not pretentious. (6306 Greenville. 692-6920. Lunch: Sun-Fri 11-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
S &D Oyster Company. The newly bricked McKin-ney Avenue outside makes S&D’s stark, casual dining room feel even more like a part of New Orleans. This is fitting because the array of seafood offered here-oysters, shrimp, fish-is fresh and authentically prepared. The hefty crowd lingering outside the door speaks for the food’s reputation. S&D’s service is consistantly crisp and friendly. (2701 McKinney, 823-6350. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. No reservations. MC, V. $$)
Spinnaker. The menu here is of manageable size- there is variety, but it doesn’t appear that the chef tries to perform beyond his means in order to impress. We began with an on-the-house appetizer, a tasty sample of marinated shrimp. Our entree choices included a filet of red snapper with white wine and lemon butter and bouillabaisse marsel-laise, rich with shrimp, scallops, crab legs, halibut, sea bass, lobster, mussels, redfish and clams in a deliciously light, non-fishy broth. The appetizers we sampled-baked clams with shrimp and crab meat and bisque of crawfish with cognac-were very good. But we missed having salads with our meal. (Lincoln Radisson Hotel, 5410 LBJ Frwy at Dallas N Tollway. 934-8400. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 6-11; Sun brunch; 10:30-3. Closed Sunday evening. Reservations only. All credit cards. $$$)
Turtle Cove. Decisions are easy to make at Turtle Cove: Order the fresh seafood broiled over a mes-quite wood fire, a whiff of which you’re bound to inhale as you enter. The mesquite provides a low. moist heat that cooks the seafood to perfection. Mesquite-broiled vegetables are a better choice than salad, and the best appetizers are the fresh oysters and broiled shrimp. Just remember: stick with the fresh seafood. (2731 W Northwest Hwy near European Crossroads. 350-9034. Mon-Sat 11-11, Sun noon-11 pm. MC, V, AS. $$)
SOUTHERN SPECIALTIES
Brent Place. Lunch customers drive from all over the state to dine in this 106-year-old house in Old City Park. The menu changes weekly; we enjoyed roast beef, corn on the cob, baked beans, coleslaw, bread pudding, muffins and corn bread, plus iced tea, for $6. Brent Place is a nonprofit project of the Dallas Heritage Society and is staffed almost completely by society volunteers. The lunch menu changes weekly, but on weekends the chefs try out new menus and prepare old favorites. (1717 Gano. 421-3057. Lunch seatings: Tue-Fri at 11:15. 12:15 and 1:15: Sat & Sun 11 am-2 pm. Reservations required weekdays. MC, V, AE. $)
Celebration. Nothing fancy, nothing snooty, nothing canned makes its way to your table at this longtime favorite home-style chow house. Specials change daily; and everything we tried was worth celebrating. We went on a Tuesday to give Celebration the acid test; Would the special of the day, chicken-fried steak, be worthy of our (native Texan) digestive juices? Indeed, it was. The gravy was some of the best we’ve tasted, save for Massey’s in Fort Worth and George’s in Waco. The best part of the meal was the smooth, creamy mashed potatoes, obviously made from scratch and seasoned with drippings from the steak. Every entree comes with three vegetables, a huge salad, homemade salad dressing and an assorted basket of rolls. (4503 W Lovers Lane. 351-5681. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, Sun 5-10. Reservations for six or more weekdays and Sun. All credit cards. $$)
Highland Park Cafeteria. To dine at this Dallas institution during peak hours can mean waiting in line for as long as 20 minutes. But don’t give up; the line moves quickly and soon you’ll be enticed by the aroma of HPC’s home-style food. HPC offers all kinds of green salads, coleslaw, congealed salads and fresh fruits. Next in line are the entrees: roast beef, fish (baked or fried), casseroles and more. And the vegetables here are actually semi-crisp, not steamed into mush. The assortment of breads and desserts is especially tempting. (4611 Cole. 526-3809. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm. Closed Sun. No liquor. MC, V. $)
Papa Zaby’s Cafe. A cross between Dixie House (up the road) and Little Gus’ (down the street). Papa Zaby’s is a welcome addition to the lower Greenville Avenue area. Breakfasts are noteworthy: fluffy omelets, biscuits, gravy and hashbrowns. At dinnertime, the chicken-fried steak with a bacony country gravy, mashed potatoes and vegetable of the day is entirely satisfying. (2114 Greenville. 821-4563. Mon-Fri 9 am-11 pm, Sat 8 am-11 pm, Sun 10 am-11 pm; brunch: Sat 8-2, Sun 10-2. All credit cards. $)
Peggy’s Beef Bar. If Snider Plaza has hopes of becoming highbrow (à la Highland Park, à la Rodeo sDrive) it has to contend with Peggy’s Beef Bar. And Peggy. This quick-bile barbecue dive, complete with numerous pictures of cattle, offers juicy sandwiches, heaping barbecue plates and some terrific spicy onion rings. But you city slickers stay home; Peggy’s servin’ up the real McCoy. (6600 Snider Plaza. 368-9422. Mon-Fri 7 am-6 pm, Sat 10:30 am-4 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)
Sonny Bryan’s. This is the kind of no-frills, quality barbecue that must have made Texas famous oh-so-long ago. And if Texas excess has a good side, it’s the excessive barbecue sauce spilling off Sonny Bryan’s hefty beef sandwiches and juicy ribs. The solid lunch crowd at this small, rustic former drive-in can attest to the great flavor of Sonny’s-if you can get anyone to stop eating. (2202 Inwood. 357-7120. Mon-Fri 7 am-5 pm, Sat 7 am-3 pm, Sun 11 am-2 pm. No reservations. No credit cards. $)
STEAKS, BURGERS, ETC.
Bohemia. The owners of this charm-laden little Bavarian restaurant are Czechoslovakian, but the cuisine is not all that different from your favorite German establishment, and odds are that it’s prepared with more care. The menu includes a lot of goulash-style dishes, dumplings, veal and vinegary sauces. Our vegetables were outstanding, cooked perfectly. The sauerkraut, in fact, was the best we’ve ever had. The desserts, too, were homemade -a fluffy cheesecake with real whipped cream and an apple strudel of flaky pastry and tart, plump fruit slices. (2810 N Henderson. 826-6209. Tue-Sun 5:30-11. Closed Mon. MC, V, AE, $$)
The Bronx. Pinpointing the ambiance of The Bronx is not easy-it’s somewhere between Soho chic and Southern simplicity. In any case. The Bronx is a great place to sit back, relax and choose from a limited menu of quiches, omelets and salads, or perhaps the meat loaf plate, all of which are sure bets. The Bronx has daily wine specials and some of the best spiced tea around. Service can be a bit slow. (3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Mon-Thur 5:30 pm-12:30 am, Fri 5:30 pm-1:30 am, Sal 5:30 pm-1:30 am: Sunday brunch: 11-3. MC, V, AE. $$)
Hoffbrau. We regret heaping more praise upon this much-adored Dallas institution only because the last time we visited, on a Monday night, we waited 30 minutes for a table. But it was no wonder, for we stood in Hoffbrau-that enchanted place where even SMU kids dress like UT kids. The steaks are large, the potatoes are fattening, the beer is cold and the music’s loud. Hoffbrau may have made Esquire’s best eats list, but neither prices nor service seems to have suffered. (3205 Knox at Cole. 559-2680. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11 pm, Sun 4-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Judge Bean’s. Another in a seemingly endless procession of “fat-burger” joints, Judge Bean’s offers serious carnivores a half-pound burger available with almost any imaginable topping from hickory sauce to refried beans, chips, onions and hot sauce. Also worth trying are Bean’s hefty nachos and curlicue French fries. And for the true Texan, there’s the world’s largest hamburger (or so Judge Bean says) -a 4-pound burger consisting of 2 pounds of meat and 2 pounds of fixin’s-which has to be seen (or perhaps eaten) to be believed. (8214 Park Lane, 363-8322, and 14920 Midway. 980-4400. Sun & Mon 11-11, Tue-Sat 11 am-2 am. MC, V, AE. $)
Kobe Steaks. This plush Japanese steakhouse offers combinations of steak, seafood and/or chicken. Beef is the featured attraction, and it is of the highest quality. Dinners come with delicious beef broth, a piquant shrimp appetizer and smooth green tea as well as salad and rice. But the group seating arrangements offer little privacy while you dine. (5000 Belt Line off Dallas Pkwy, Suite 600. 934-8150. Sun-Thur 5-11 pm, Fri & Sat 5-midnight. All credit cards. $$$)
Nostromo Bar. The minute this hi-tech bar/restaurant opened its unmarked door, it reigned as one of the “in” places to see and be seen in Dallas. But the definitively chichi atmosphere can become nauseat-ingly thick. Meanwhile, management provides a limited menu that includes a good steak and a new homemade soup each day. (4515 Travis at Knox. 528-8880. Mon-Fri 11:30-2 am, Sat & Sun 6 pm-2 am. Jackets required for men. Reservations. AE, V, MC. $$)
The Palm Bar. Nowhere downtown can you find a lighter, lovelier or more innovative meal than at The Palm Bar in the Adolphus Hotel. In addition to such predictable selections as salads and New York deli-style sandwiches, you’ll find lunch variations such as the croissant sandwich with turkey or roast beef and a pot of fresh steamed vegetables dressed with a dab of herb butter. A limited menu is available through cocktail time. (Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Mon-Fri 11 am-7 pm. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)
Tolbert’s Chili Parlor. Tolbert’s may have left Oak Lawn, but not much else has changed at this chili institution (except that the crowd’s gotten even bigger). You’ll still find good mainline Texas cooking- Tolbert’s version of chili (Texas red), burgers with every type of dressing, burritos, hearty fries and superb onion rings-but now you’ll get it served up in an even bigger warehouse-style room with even more chili cookoff photos. (4544 McKinney. 522-4340. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight, Sun noon-11 pm. No reservations. V, MC, AE. $)
FORT WORTH RESTAURANTS
Angelo’s. Hallowed has become the name of Angelo’s among devotees of the almighty rib, and for a real taste of Texas, we’ll take the tender, meaty, succulent barbecued ribs served here. For $5.75, you gel a pile of ribs, beans, potato salad, coleslaw, pickle, onion, sauce and bread. Ribs are served after 5 p.m. only. The kitchen closes at 10 p.m., after which the price of beer doubles. (2533 White Settlement Road. (817) 332-0357. Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm. Closed Sun. No reservations. No credit cards. $)
The Balcony. Here you’ll find continental cuisine, with specialties such as beef dishes, fried shrimp and veal cordon bleu. The elegant restaurant overlooks bustling Camp Bowie Boulevard and is a good place for relaxed dining and conversation. (6100 Camp Bowie. (817) 731-3719. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Reservations. Jackets required for dinner. All credit cards. $$$)
Benito’s. This is a real Mexican restaurant, not the place for Pancho-style taste buds or first-semester Spanish students. This small, family-run establishment is managed by the daughter of the former headwaiter at Caro’s, and she’s made sure her restaurant’s beans and rice are just as tasty and non-greasy as theirs. But she’s done more: Benito’s serves all sorts of Mexican breakfasts, as well as specialties such as menudo-that’s tripe, in case you don’t know; it’s supposed to be great for hangovers. (1450 W Magnolia. (817) 332-8633. Mon-Thur 8 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 8 am-3 am, Sun 8 am-10 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)
Bill Martin’s. A family seafood restaurant with notable hush puppies and fried, baked and broiled fish of many breeds. The peel-’em-and-eat-’em shrimp is a favorite with regulars. We’ll take the large portion of catfish filets. The newspaper theme is followed in the menus and names of all the “editions ’ (2nd Edition, 4004 White Settlement Road; 332-9244. 3rd Edition, 5425 E Lancaster; 451-7220. 4th Edition, 7712 South Freeway; (817) 293-9002. Tandy Edition, 1 Tandy Center; 336-2667. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 4:45-10, Fri 4:45-11, Sat 11-11, Sun 11-10. All credit cards. $$)
Burgundy Tree. This is a pleasant spot for good omelets, crepes, quiches and even an occasional London broil. And the Burgundy Tree’s University Drive location makes it an easy drive from Casa Manana, Will Rogers or a show on Camp Bowie. (1015 University Dr. (817) 335-2514. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat 11 am-1 am, Sun 1 am-11 pm; Sun brunch: 11-2. V, AE, DC, MC. $$)
Caro’s. A longtime favorite Mexican food outpo Caro’s offers the best plate of mixed goodies in the Southwest. “Mixed goodies” is Caro-lingo for tortilla chips piled alternately with cheese and guacamole after being specially fried to puff up instead of sog down. The selection of Mexican dinners at Caro’s pretty much resembles that of any restaurant of its genre, but it’s better. There’s serious spice for those who want it. We like the chicken enchiladas and think the beans are divine. (3505 Blue Bonnet Circle, (817) 927-9948. 5930 Curzon, (817) 7370304. Lunch: Tue-Sun 11-2; dinner: Tue-Sun 5-/0 at Blue Bonnet, and 4:30-10 at Curzon. Closed Mon. No credit cards: personal checks accepted. $$)
The Carriage House. This is a refreshing retreat from area steakhouses that are big enough to accommodate basketball tournaments. The atmosphere in the two small crystal-laden dining rooms is not quiet, but it is relaxed. The tenderloins win best of show, with South African lobster tails, mushroom appetizers and soothing brandy ices vying for second place. (5136 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 732-2873. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2: dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11, Sun 6-10: Sunday brunch: 11-2. Reservations. AE, MC, V. $$$)
Carshon’s Delicatessen. They tell us there isn’t another corned-beef sandwich in Texas like Carshon’s, and. judging by the reputation Carshon’s has held in Fort Worth for 40 years, we tend to agree. This deli-catessen-cum-restaurant offers good split-pea and beef and barley soups and an assortment of kosher-style food. Phone orders are accepted. Catering available in Fort Worth. (3133 Cleburne Road. (817) 923-1907. Tue-Sun 8:30 am-7:30 pm. Closed Mon. No credit cards. $$)
Cattlemen’s. First-time visitors are excited by the rustic Texas-style setting in the heart of the old stockyards area, but the prime steak is the thing that brings them back a second time. Blue-ribbon beeves are displayed to document the superb quality of meat that has been devoured here, but tasting is believing. When the steaks arrive, all else becomes incidental. The prime cuts of rib eye and K.C. sirloin are delectable, and the 18-ounce prime boneless strip is a third-degree sin. (2458 N Main. (817) 624-3945. Mon-Fri 11 am-10:30 pm, Sat 4:30-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur. All credit cards. $$$)
Crystal Cactus. The Crystal Cactus, which gets its name from the etched-glass room dividers, is a pleasant repose and an admirable effort to provide quality dining to downtown Fort Worth. The service is proficient and attentive, and the offerings are attractively presented. The rock lobster salad with tarragon dressing is delicious, and the beef tenderloin is equally well-prepared. Interesting luncheon specialties are featured during the week, including a spicy fisherman’s stew. (Hyatt Regency Hotel, 815 Main. (817)870-1234. Dinner Mon-Sat 6-11; Sunday brunch: 10:30-2:30. Reservations. Jackets and ties required for dinner. All credit cards. $$$)
Edelweiss. Edelweiss is a big, joyous beer hall with food. Of course, there are German wines and beers, and a cheese soup as thick as we’ve ever tasted. For entrees, try the sausages in mushroom sauce or the cordon bleu Kartoffein (schnitzel stuffed with ham and cheese), which is reputed to be the house specialty. The potato pancakes spiced with onion make a tasty side dish. (3801-A Southwest Blvd. (817) 738-5934. Dinner: Mon-Sat 5-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations tor 10 or more. All credit cards. $$)
Hamp’s Hoffbrau. For years, when you lusted after beef in Cowtown you took your money and your desires to Cattlemen’s. Hamp’s isn’t In the same league and doesn’t aspire to be; but neither is this small, comfortable steak shop overpriced or tourist-infested. So far it’s a good, less-exhausting alternative to an old favorite. The menu is short and includes juicy steaks of several cuts, a chicken breast, a shish kebab and grilled onions. (275 University, 334-0003. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11 pm, Sun noon-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Hedary’s. Where else in Fort Worth can you sit down to a meal of hoummus bit-tahini (chickpea dip seasoned with lemon and garlic), khyar bil-laban (sliced cucumbers in fresh yogurt) and a plate of magdoos (pickled eggplant stuffed with walnuts)? Hedary’s is intimate, a bit idiosyncratic and thoroughly old-fashioned in its methods. “No hot table, freezer, chemicals or can opener,” says the menu, and we believe it. The bread is baked while you watch. (3308 Fairfield, Ridglea Center off Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-6961. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner: Tue-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 5-70. Closed Mon. No reservations. All credit cards. $$)
Joe T. Garcia’s. This Fort Worth temple to Tex-Mex serves up superior family-style Mexican staples and industrial-strength margaritas that are champions. You’ve got your beans, rice, tacos, enchiladas, guacamole, tortillas and, if you must, nachos. No questions. No substitutions. That’s it. But it’s the best, and it makes for an inherently good time. Time after time. (2201 N Commerce. (817) 626-4356. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 pm & 5-10:30 pm, Sat 11 am-10:30pm, Sun 4-10pm. Reservations for 20or more. No credit cards. $$)
Kincaid’s. This west Fort Worth grocery store serves, almost as an afterthought, the best hamburger in the state of Texas. Kincaid’s cooks more than 1,200 a day, but each seems to taste as it your mother toiled over a skillet preparing it. Greasy? Of course. But they are the best-tasting, juiciest, meatiest burgers you’ll ever wrap your hands around. That’s why businessmen in three-piece suits are more than willing to stand in line at the noon hour for a chance to grab one of these delightful burgers, a bag of potato chips and a Dr Pepper from the machine. (4901 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-2881. Mon-Sat 10 am-6:15 pm. No credit cards. $)
Le Café Bowie. We were late in visiting this excellent French restaurant. The recited menu changes daily; we enjoyed chicken and veal specialties, fresh fruit salads, soup, homemade rolls and fresh vegetables. The service was graceful. Le Café Bowie may be the best restaurant in Cowtown. (4930 Camp Bowie. 735-1521. Lunch: Tue-Sun 11:30-2, Sat noon-2: dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Sun champagne brunch: noon-2. MC, AE, V. $$$)
London House. Many a prom date, graduate, newly engaged and golden-aged couple have celebrated at the London House. The steaks and chicken are tender and flavorful. The crab, too, is tender and moist. The soup and salad bar, always a strong point, has gotten even better with the addition of items such as watermelon chunks. (4475 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-4141. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sat 5:30-midnight. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)
L’Oustau. In this pleasant, open room with lots of skylights, French-accented waiters bring forth a fine selection of continental food. The best offerings include the lamb chops (served in a delicate sauce) and the coq au vin, which evokes memories of real country cooking in Burgundy. Try a strawberry tart, which comes with a layer of custard and a thin crust of chocolate. Or, if you’re into self-denial, limit yourself to one fresh strawberry dipped in chocolate. (300 Main Street. (817) 332-8900. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations are recommended. AE, MC, V; personal checks accepted. $$$$)
Massey’s. Knowing a chicken-fried steak at Mas-sey’s is knowing the best of the breed, the crème de la crème, the piece de résistance of chicken-fried steak. The portions are huge, and the tender meat is cooked with a heavenly breading and topped with yellow creamed gravy, just the way it’s done on that great spread beyond the sunset. At lunchtime, you get salad, two vegetables and homemade biscuits with your steak. Seafood and Mexican dishes are also served. (1805 Eighth Ave. (817) 924-8242. Daily: 8 am-10 pm. MC, V. $)
The Melting Pot. Regardless of how good a restaurant is, a shopping mall address draws skepticism. But we were favorably impressed by The Melting Pot, on the upper level of Ridgmar Mall (also around the corner from Neiman’s), which offers a full menu, including savory baked brie to be scooped from the plate with homemade Melba toast or an apple slice. Among the appetizers is a whimsical selection of croissants, omelets, fondues and pasta. All are reasonably priced (nothing on the menu costs more than $11.25; many entrees are under $5). Everything we tried was good-the crab meat croissant was filling, flaky and well-seasoned. (Ridgmar Mall, 2166 Green Oaks Road. 731-1502. Tue-Sat 11:30 am-3 pm & 5-9 pm; Patio: Mon 9 am-8:30 pm, Tue-Sat 9-11 am & 3-5 pm. AE, MC, V. $$)
Old Swiss House. From your arrival when the parking valet assures you that he will not need a name to remember which car is yours to the likely visit of the chef to your table, you will be coddled all evening. The lamb chops and the cherries jubilee are awe-inspiring, and the veal Oscar and King Edward broil (a beef filet) are quite good. You don’t have to dress up here, but the service and attention shown by the staff will make you feel as though your dinner is a special occasion. (5472 Camp Bowie. (817) 738-8091. Mon-Thur 6-10 pm, Fri & Sat 6-10:30 pm. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
River House. This welcome spot considerably lessens the pain in a city aching for reasonably priced yet digestible seafood. The seafood platter is a delightful sampling of shrimp, oysters, fish and deviled crab. And the assorted shore dinners, which include an appetizer, salad, entree, drink and dessert (try the Key lime pie), are a worthy catch. (1660 S University. (817) 336-0815. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2, dinner: Mon & Tue 5-9, Wed-Sat 5-10. Reservations lor six or more.AII credit cards. $$)
Zeke’s. This smaller sister-restaurant of The Hop(it’s run by the same family) was for many years happily located next to Freak Imports and is run by whatis a minority in Cowtown: longhaired, freaky people.The kind that need not apply at other, stuffierestablishments. We love Zeke’s longhairs, but thething that keeps us coming back is the golden, crispbatter that coats almost everything Zeke’s serves.It’s greasy in the most delightful of ways, and thefact that orders of fried fish, mushrooms, okra andzucchini look a lot alike doesn’t make them boring,just uniformly superb. (5920 Curzon. 731-3321. Sun-Thur 11-11: Fri & Sat 11 am-rnidnight. No checks, nocredit cards. $)
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