Food and Spirits DINING OUT

Slim Pickings



Abraham Lincoln would have made a great restaurant reviewer. He wrote good prose under trying conditions. Writing the Gettysburg Address on the back of an envelope while riding a train (as the story has it) is roughly equivalent to taking notes on the back of one’s checkbook under the table in a candlelit restaurant. Best of all, though. Lincoln had the build for it – 6’4″ or so of bony pockets and gulches to hide a chocolate mousse or a charlotte russe in. An entire feast, from escargots to ripened Brie, probably just made him comfortably replete, whereas it leaves some of the rest of us comatose and gasping for air.

I’m 5’3″, and the only pockets on me are the commodious ones I had built into my black velvet blazer for the doggy bags. A month ago, I stood in front of the pier glass – actually, it was the mirror on the closet door but pier glass sounds better – in last summer’s maillot and surveyed the winter’s damage. Though I wasn’t wearing the blazer, I still appeared to be wearing the doggy bags.

Obviously, the dread spring moment had arrived. The wise French, gourmands all, don’t call their pre-Easter baccha-nalia Fat Tuesday for nothing. For many of us, the rite of spring means the rite to diet.

At this point, a question inserted itself between the mirror and my moony, gloomy face: How could I review restaurants and diet? Could our gal Fat Tuesday find svelte happiness in some of Dallas” best restaurants?

The problem is, I thought, as I shucked the maillot, carefully averting my gaze from the mirror, that I like to eat. “I love food,” I snarled at the dog who sat watching me, ears cocked. “Good food- none of those demeaning, insipid cottage cheese plates.” The dog crouched down small and moaned. Reaching in the closet I pulled out the Bill Haire that was my first designer dress, that I’d saved for all last spring. Sweat beading my brow, tears springing to my eyes, I faced the fact: It wouldn’t zip. It wouldn’t, as a matter of fact, budge. Ears back, tail low, the dog slunk under the bed, and the next day I started the Diet.

We began with Chiquita on the grounds that if you can eat thin at a Mexican restaurant, you can eat thin anywhere. The “new” Chiquita, relocated on Congress eight months ago, has probably the nicest decor of any Mexican restaurant in town. Very light and colorful, the large dining room sparkles with bright orange tablecloths, pots of enormous paper flowers in warm colors, hand-embroidered crewel canvases on the wall, and dozens of blown glass bulbs containing candles hanging from the ceiling. It’s hokey, sure, but hokey is beautiful when you need something to cheer you up in imminent starvation.

To our surprise, we didn’t have to starve at all. Resolutely pushing away tostadas and avoiding the tempting combinations – a Tex-Mex glory of tacos, chalupas. enchiladas, and burritos- on the left-hand side of the menu, we fixed our eyes on the house specialties to the right. Such items greeted us as broiled chicken a la parilla, breast of chicken cooked on hickory and served with a tomato slice and a small salad; red snapper a la Mario, broiled with almonds and rice; pescado bianco chapala, a filet of whitefish with a delicate lemon-herb sauce; and pescado marinero, white-fish rolled with spinach stuffing and topped with shrimp and oysters. We settled for the chicken and whitefish chapala, and both were savory treats we’d never have had back in our dissolute taco days. We splurged on a small guacamole, but passed up Carta Blanca for black coffee. Total calories, figured with our waiter’s help: about 500 for the chicken dinner, a little less for the whitefish. even with one of the paper-thin and scrumptious tortillas. A very successful first venture.

We figured the S & D Oyster Company was a natural for low-cal pleasures, so the Friday night of the big drizzle after the second snow, we tried the place – along with a substantial portion of the rest of Dallas. Oyster lovers stood in line in the foyer and out to the sidewalk, sipping suds in plastic glasses from the bar, reading the inscriptions on the walls – “He was a bold man who first ate an oyster”- and hungrily eyeing the eaters inside. After about twenty minutes we were shown to a roomy table covered with a red-checked cloth and laden with catsup, sliced lemons, Tabasco, Worcestershire, horseradish – all the makings for your own cocktail sauce. Our order for gumbo and oysters came immediately. The oysters were excellent large blue-points at the peak of freshness, the gumbo was hot and spicy. I looked for the crusty French bread, but fortunately for my diet (I guess), it wasn’t there, only the ubiquitous crackers which I had no trouble refusing. Nor was it a pain to pass up the coleslaw, which was awful, tasteless except for harsh onion and a far cry from the creamy rich – but that way lies madness, and I couldn’t indulge my fantasies. The boiled shrimp came, crisp, cold, pink, and the rémoulade sauce with them was super, not the glunky pink stuff usually sold under that name, but white, herb-seasoned. Giving it up after a taste was the first real wrench. And the last. The French fries were scraggly and not good, and the lemon meringue pie was so bad we left it with alacrity and settled for several cups of the strong, hot. wonderful black coffee. The S & D makes eating thin an awful lot of fun.

Several things made us go for the Old Warsaw next. First, it’s one of the best restaurants in town, and we knew they’d tried and abandoned the French nou-velle cuisine minceur. We decided to see what was afforded the intrepid dieter instead. A lot. we learned, and all irresistible. Arturo. our waiter, after registering initial shock – I gather most Old Warsaw diners don’t bother about diets, for understandable reasons – soon got into the spirit of the game and showed great expertise at it. At his suggestion we started things off with crevettes Varso-vie, shrimp sautéed with shallots in a light Pernod sauce. The assorted appetizers turned out not to be entirely a good idea, as they consisted in part of cucumbers and herring (both in sour cream), chicken salad, and other non-dietetic items.

But Arturo steered us away from the veal chop and vegetables baked in butter with a heavy sauce and toward the escalopes de veau à la francais, marvelous-ly and perfectly sautéed in lemon and a pinch of butter. He also recommended the Dover sole Véronique. the most delicate of whitefish poached with grapes, incredibly low in calories and high in sensation. With white asparagus, salads of endive and Boston lettuce, and a glass each of light dry white wine, we had been sickeningly virtuous. Arturo looked at us proudly and we looked at him proudly. Then came one of those moments that are the prelude to sin.

“Now for monsieur and madame. perhaps a light souffle for dessert?” he suggested insinuatingly, in the voice of the snake in the Garden of Eden. “We are famous for our dessert souffles. We have one chef who does nothing else.” With a wild surmise we looked at each other and nodded slowly in unison. I’d heard of the fortunate fall. But this one didn’t fall, not a jot: the soufflé Grand Marnier, high and airy and steaming with fragrant orange liqueur, better than any apple, and probably about 400 calories. Man does not live by whitefish alone.

Like Chiquita, I1 Sorrento was a test of our seriousness. In the popular Italian restaurant, crowded even on a snowy Sunday night, we sat amid the tantalizing smell of tomatoes and garlic with visions of fettucine and lasagna and linguine dancing in our heads. By this time the whole idea of a diet was wearing pretty thin, and we could see we had a fat chance of sticking to it here.

The first problem was the bread, hot loaves heaped on us by a passing bread boy. We waved him off and studied the big and varied menu, and suddenly things looked easy. There were lots of low-calorie dishes – artichokes vinaigrette, red peppers and anchovies, crab fingers, stuffed mushrooms, clams and oysters among the antipasti, and among the entrees, seafood, veal, and chicken dishes cooked in a variety of unfattening and promising ways. We decided on red snapper steak francese. lightly battered and sauteed in lemon sauce, and breast of chicken marsala. both good choices. Ignoring the side dishes of pasta, we also passed up dessert in favor of cappuccino sans whipped cream or liqueur, and emerged feeling as if we”d redeemed ourselves after the ignominious souffle debacle.

Hunan, our next stop, was, like all Chinese restaurants, a snap for dieters who know what they’re doing. We love the hot Szechuan cuisine, full of hot peppers and ginger, as most Dallasites raised on Mexican food do. The appetizer tray came first, though, and the items we like best, the shrimp and the shrimp toast, were heavily battered and fried in deep fat. as were the egg rolls. But the beef pieces and spare ribs were lean, and tasted so good – our first beef and pork in weeks! The prawns with ginger sauce and vegetables were delectably spicy, but the champagne chicken, touted by the restaurant as the banquet dish of old China, was too sweet for these occidental palates, and. too late, we suspected the sauce of concealed calories. The crab velvet, in a light subtle dressing enhanced by egg whites and Chinese vegetables, was a happier choice. We didn’t eat the rice – you don’t really need it with dishes as hearty as these – and there was of course no bread or dessert.

My fortune cookie informed me. “You have chosen the path of higher wisdom.” Thus encouraged, we meandered over to I Can’t Believe It’s Yogurt for a cup of the delicious fluffy chocolate, less than 100 calories. Confucius himself couldn’t be smarter.

Once again I stand in front of the closet mirror, pulling on my Bill Haire. the little dog cowering at my feet. It zips, it zips! The little dog yips, and the three of us head for Swensen’s to celebrate.

– Jo Brans



Recipe

Fortune Cooking

Sam Shum. the owner of South China, may be well on his way toward starting a dynasty among Chinese restaurants in Dallas. After only four years, South China is known as one of the best and prettiest oriental places around. And no wonder. Sam Shum zealously guards the quality of preparation in the kitchen, and up front he holds court in a colorful dining room that Shum. a former architect in mainland China and Hong Kong, designed all the fixtures for: everything from the traditional moon-shaped door to the huge red and gold plaque that in Chinese reads “happiness. ’

Now his whole family has gotten into the act. His brother-in-law owns Oak Cliffs Golden Dragon, a sister-in-law has opened the highly successful Chu’s in Addison. and just lately Shum’s son Norman has opened the China Belle, a Chinese fast-food store in Valley View Mall that’s certainly welcome relief from take-out chicken and taco shops.

South China remains the hub of the family enterprise for such dishes as lemon chicken, one of the Tuesday lunchtime specials. We have known people to drive halfway across town in noon traffic when this delicious variation on the sweet and sour sauce is served. So if you’ve been too timid to break in the wok you got for Christmas, here’s an easy way to get started. Duplicate South China’s recipe at home – and perhaps start your own dynasty?



To prepare the chicken:

4-6 bones chicken breasts, sprinkled with salt and white pepper

cup flour

1/4 cup cornstarch

1 tsp. salt

1 tsp. baking powder

2 tbs. white vinegar

1/2 cup vegetable oil



Mix these ingredients well, adding enough water to make a batter with the consistency of mustard: it shouldn’t be too thin. Coat chicken pieces. Deep fry in oil in a wok (or set your deep fryer at 3500-400o) until crispy.



To make the lemon sauce:

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1 cup chicken stock

1/2 cup white vinegar

tbs. cornstarch, mixed with

2 tbs. water

juice of one lemon

1/2 oz. lemon extract



Mix ingredients in a pan and bring to a boil. Add lemon extract to taste just be-fore pouring sauce over chicken. Serves 4. Newcomers



La Fontaine. A French restaurant with a Czechoslovakian chef and an Iranian manager in a previously unsuccessful (and dry) location in far north Dallas doesn’t bode well. But you just never know. The few who have wandered into this unlikely place have been treated to continental specialties outshining anything north of Walnut Hill Lane – and many of its competitors to the south. Our samplings have included a superb steak Diane, an equally fine veal Oscar, a perfect rack of lamb, a veal Marsala prepared as tenderly and delicately as veal can be, and in generous portions; a pepper steak which, in spite of a less-than-stunning cut of meat, was made excellent by the perfectly seasoned sauce; a thin but delicious cream of cauliflower soup; and a liver pate appetizer – a canned import, but extremely good. The most unusual preparation here, which comes unexpectedly since it is not described on the menu, is the spinach salad (for two) prepared tableside as a flambé with rum and brandy and garlic and served hot – a rich (too rich, really) and unique salad. And if you’re a coffee lover, be sure to have their thick sweet Turkish coffee. The place is not without problems, however. The garden-patio-white-latticework decor of the previous tenant has been retained; it is mildly attractive, if you don’t mind feeling like you’re at a wedding reception. Unbecoming, but not uncomfortable. And the wine list is woefully inadequate (though fairly priced) and the wine service was shaky. But the diligent staff seems determined to succeed out here, and with such food, they just might. (Carillon Plaza, 13601 Preston Rd/387-1544/ Lunch 11-3, dinner 6-11, closed for lunch Sat and all day SunlReservationslMC, V/$$$)



The Flaming Cart. Located within shouting distance of the Windmill Dinner Theater on East Northwest Highway, this is another entrant in the local continental sweepstakes, though at the moment it’s still back in the pack. As one would assume, they specialize in things flambé, including an excellent steak Diane, outstanding bananas Foster, and several nice dessert coffees. If everything else were as good, there’d be no reason to complain. Alas, the soups are only average, bland and a bit thin, and the vegetables aren’t much better. A sprig of broccoli, a dish of noodles with a dusting of parmesan cheese. Not what one expects from a restaurant of this type. The Rock Cornish game hen in plum sauce was tasty and well-prepared, but both the scampi and the scalloped veal arrived dry and smothered in a taste-killing tomato sauce. There are problems with the service as well. Although the staff seems to be sizeable, dinner can easily take three hours or more. Some might consider this the essence of leisurely dining, but when the lingering isn’t by choice one suspects there’s chaos behind the swinging doors. With some tightening up here, and the elimination of a few tacky touches like baskets of cellophane-wrapped crackers on the tables, The Flaming Cart could turn into a first-class operation. Right now, it’s just an interesting newcomer. (6526 East Northwest Highwayl36l-6939/ Dinner 5:30-11 Tues-Sun, closed Mon/ ReservationslMC, V. AE/ $$$)

Peyron. Haute cuisine has arrived in Cowtown with the opening of this slick looking chrome and glass restaurant on Vickery. Unfortunately, more attention seems to have been paid to the decor than to the kitchen. Not that the food is bad, just disappointing, especially for a restaurant with such aspirations to elegance and sophistication. The menu is extensive but rather predictable – coq au vin to cha-teaubriand with a smattering of fish dishes. The peppered steak was a good cut of meat unimaginatively prepared and seasoned. Ditto for the veal dishes. There’s also a trout specialty involving a pastry shell and Newburg sauce that is a disaster. The pastry was soggy and the fish oily. The appetizers were much better, particularly the fruits de mer and the stuffed leeks, although like most dishes at Peyron they were laced with garlic. For dessert, try the cherries jubilee or the crêpes suzette. Both are very good. Excellent wine list, classy bar, and brisk, professional service. Now if someone would just shake up the kitchen. (4425 West Vickery /(817) 731-7457/ Dinner: Mon-Fri 5-10, Sat 6-10, closed Sun/Reservations/MC, V, AE/$$$)



Recommended Restaurants



These restaurants represent the best in Dallas dining. It is implicit that we recommend all of them highly.

These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion in this directory has nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.

The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They are intended only to indicate a general price range.



$ – Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$ – Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$ – Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $10 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.

$$$$ – Very expensive.

Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants have full bar facilities.

Credit card notations: MC – Master Charge / V – Visa / AE – American Express / DC – Diner’s Club / CB – Carte Blanche / “All Credit Cards” indicates that all the above are accepted

Continental



Arthur’s. Home away from home tor junior executives and the expense account set Arthur’s sports a classy bar and a first-rate kitchen Lunch is as solid as dinner, with hefty portions to keep the three-martini luncher on an even keel Have the magnificent calves liver with Canadian bacon and sautéed onions, or the sensational lamb chops Professional service and elegance without condescension. (1000 Campbell Centre/361 -88331Lunch Mon-Fri 11 30-2. Dinner daily 6-11. Sal till midnight! Reservations/All credit cards/$$$)

Bagatelle. This stylish restaurant has always delighted us with its atmosphere, but never overwhelmed us with its food The kitchen is competent but not dazzling One standout is the tournedos cafe royale The new menu also features a rich and intriguing pheasant under glass, but you’ll have to decide whether you want to pay that much for any entree Service is sometimes well-paced sometimes no! The companion Plaza Cafe has a rather windy outdoor dining area, and a pleasant indoor one The food there is nothing exceptional, but it’s a nice place for a snack and a drink if you’re on Greenville and don’t want to fend off singles (One Energy Square. Greenville at Universiry/692-8224/Bagatelle Lunch Mon-Fri 11 30-2 30. Dinner Sun- Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat till 11 bar till 2. Plaza Lunch Mon-Fri 11 30 2 30. Dinner Mon-Sate 6-midnight/ReservationslMC.V AE.DC/$$$-$$)

Le Bistro. Its impossible not to like this place, with its sophisticated renovation of an old Oak Lawn house and its excellent service, but theres something lacking in the kitchen Appetizers and salads are excellent especially the escargots and the Salade Le Bistro with avocado and fresh mushrooms But the entrees often come to the table over- or under-cooked, and carelessly seasoned Too bad, because they have the right idea offer a limited range of French entrees Maybe they re learning and maybe they’ll get it right some day Meanwhile we keep hoping. (3716 Bowser, just off Oak Lawn/528-4181/Tue-Thur 6-10 Fri & Sat 6-11. Sun 6- 10IReservationslMC V AEI$$$)

Brasserie. The most elegant coffee shop in town In the wee hours of the morning (they re open 24 hours) stop by to treat yourself to Dallas best Eggs Benedict – sprinkled with truffles (at 3 a m they bother?), or a sandwich of sirloin on crisp, buttery French bread During the other hours, especially lunch, the fare is mostly overpriced and undistinguished. (Fairmont Hotel: floss & Akardl 748-5454124 hours, seven days a week/No reservations/ MC. V. AE. DC/$$

Calluaud. One of Dallas most civilized restaurants Set in a small frame house, with a casual yet intimate atmosphere complemented by consistently fine French foods Superb soups and excellent omelettes, and desserts not to be missed simple and wonderful fruit tarts (try the apple) and exquisite profiteroles The imaginative dinner menu changes frequently but recently featured a fabulous roast duck and Guv Calluaud’s superb Veau Normande Or treat yourself to his splendid quail For lunch, the filet of sole is an excellent alternative if for some reason you want to pass up the omelettes Prices are a bargain for the quality Reservations – made well in advance, especially for weekends – are necessary (2917 Fairmount off Cedar Spnngs/742-8525/Lunch. Mon-Fri 11 30-2 30 p m . Dinner Mon-Fri 6 30-10 30. Sat till 11. closed SunIReservations/ MC V AE/$$$)

La Cave. The first wine bar to open in Dallas, so some visitors haven t quite caught on the fact that they can come here and sample fine wines and then buy botties to take home with them Food is a secondary consideration good salads, sandwiches, pàté, and cheeses to keep you steady as you sample the wonderful array of wines Congenial and civilized, though the wine chat can get an-noyingly snobbish at times. (2926 Henderson/826-2190! Lunch Mon-Sat 11-230.Dinner Mon-Fri 5 30-12. Sat till 1, open for off-premise wine sales all day/No reserva-nonslMC. V/$)

Chablis. An odd little French restaurant, difficult to put your finger on – the style is neither elegant nor quaint But the food, while in some instances overpriced is decidedly good A tasty complimentary rillettes. a fine pepper steak. and a subtly glazed roast duckling are highlights Light flaky bread (with a very French flavor) and the sweetest. richest chocolate mousse in town. (120 Quadrangle. 2800 Routhl522-0910lLunch 11 30-2 30, Dinner Mon-Thur 6-11 Fri & Sat till midnight, closed SunlReserva-tions on weekends/MC. V AE, DC/$$$)

Chateaubriand. A wide-ranging menu, with everything from sweetbreads to frog legs to lobster to veal parmigiana, and a high percentage of it is quite well-executed The standouts, interestingly, are the Greek specialties try the pastitsa and dolma appetizer and the Greek veal” in a pleasant lemon-butter-oregano sauce Chateaubriand’s old-fashioned overdressed style is not to all tastes, but service is attentive and the place is comfortable Lunch is nothing special. (2515 McKinney/741-1223/Mon-Sat 11 30 am -midnight/Reservations/All credit cards/$$$)

The Chimney. An unpretentious Swiss-Austrian restaurant that specializes in excellent veal, ranging from a simple lemon veal to more extravagant preparations Also one of the few places where you can have venison And for dessert, have the excellent home-made cheesecake At lunch, the fare is strictly ladies tearoom though it’s one of the best of its kind Attentive service, and a nice atmosphere (though the piano is placed too close to some of the tables to make conversation comfortable) (Willow Creek. 9739 N Cen Expwy at Walnut Hill/369-6466ILunch Tue-Sat 11 30-2. Dinner Tue-Sun 6-10 30. Sun brunch 11-2/ReservationslMC. At. DCl$$$)

Ewald’s. Loyal regulars flock to this old standard, whose menu has changed very little over the years The style is sort of continental home-cooking more hearty than delicate, more homey than classy The veal is excellent, though some preparations are over-embellished Try the veal Papagallo with Canadian bacon and Swiss cheese or the veal Picatta-Milanese Excellent pepper steak and Tenderloin a la Ewald And a rarity – well-prepared fresh vegetables Have a side order of spaetzli if your entree doesn’t come with it. and conclude with the Black Forest cake No frills, but lew disappointments, either (5415 W Lovers Lnl357-1622/Mon-Fri 6-10 30. Sat 6-11/ResenalionslMC. Vl$$$)

The Grape. An old favorite with some new delights, especially at lunch which has become more adventurous The beef dishes, particularly the tournedos béarnaise and the boeuf à la mode, are outstanding Other delights are the escargots aux champignons and the omelette aux crevettes chinoise (with shrimp, mushrooms, and bean sprouts) The mushroom soup is famous, but the potage au Tripoli, a chickpea soup with herbs and spices, is a new winner Still hard to beat for the money (2808 Green-villel823-0133ILunch Mon-Fri 11 30-2. Dinner Tue-Sun 6- 10 30. open later on Fri & Sat for wine and cheese onlyINo ReservationslMC, VI$S)



D REVISITS

Jean Claude. This interesting and unusual new venture has quickly moved close to the head of the class among Dallas’ continental restaurants, and deservedly so Skeptics might wince, but the blend of elegance, culinary entertainment and instruction, and above all the truly su-perb quality of chef Jean Claude Prevot’s cook ing has caught on with hordes of people clamoring for reservations, which these days can require up to a two-week wait. The waiter describes the selections of the evening – usually three hors d’oeuvres, three entrees, and three desserts. If you’re of a mind you can lean over the counter at the aromatic open kitchen to watch Jean Claude, for years a respected cooking teacher in Dallas, perform as he prepares the meal, eager to explain his procedures. The menu changes according to Jean Claude’s wishes and the availability of ingredients, but the preparation is consistently excellent We’ve had the duckling paté and the tasty and light salmon paté, whose sauce verte is terrific, though on a recent visit rather tough escar-gots turned out also to have sand and bits of shell While portions are small. Jean Claude can do no wrong on entrees, from duck with a delicious ginger sauce, to a first-class rack of lamb, to a Dallas rarity, delicately flavored sweetbreads – all prepared to perfection. Occasionally chef and waiter get their signals crossed such as recently when the medallions of veal arrived without its promised mushrooms, though the light and subtle cream sauce more than made up for their absence. Entrees are accompanied by wonderfully cooked vegetables, usually two small potatoes, fresh carrots and peas. Jean Claude s salads are fresh though sometimes too wet. and on the whole |ust ho-hum. But the desserts are magmlique So far we’ve had a very good (and very rich) chocolate mousse, and chestnut puree and whipped cream topped with nut brittle And there’s fine coffee afterwards – all served by a consistently courteous and solicitous staff Having the kitchen activities on display may not be to your taste in dining out, but Jean Claude carries the whole thing off with style and grace, and unarguably cooks some of the best meals in town. The wine list is short and expensive, as is the fixed price for the meal as a whole All in all, Jean Claude may just be in a class by himself. (2520 Cedar Springs/653- 1823/Dmner. 6:45-11 /Reservations only/MC. V. AEI$$$)

Marcel’s. Quiet and subdued, with waiters who seem to Know what they’re doing, but the place is running at about quarter speed, without flair or enthusiasm The $6 95 table d’hote dinner is a bargain if you choose carefully – the Beef Wellington or the coq au vin – but appetizers, soups and salads are thoroughly ordinary at best A solid wine list and a nice selection of cheeses and desserts All in all. a place that has lost some its luster (5721 Lovers Lnl358-2103lTue-Sun 6-10 30. Fri & Sat till midnight Closed Mon/ReservationsIMC, V, AE. DC/$$)

Mr. Peppe. Old-timers swear by it. and it was once one of the best restaurants in Dallas But the years have not beer kind, and you may find it drab rather than cozy The key word in recent years has been ’inconsistency ” When this restaurant is good, it’s very, very good And tortu-natety it’s never terribly bad. Try the pepper steak, which is stunningly seasoned, and the excellent desserts, otherwise, take your chances – and good luck (5617 W Lovers Lnl352’5976/Mon-Sat 6-10IReservationslMC. V, AE. DCI$S$)



D REVISITS

Old Warsaw. Over the course of the past year, the Old Warsaw has gathered up its sagging reputation, rejuvenated its menu, redecorated, and steadily pulled itself back into the forefront of the Dallas restaurant world It’s been a most welcome resurgence. While the kitchen is not as bold and imaginative as some, it now executes with great consistency from a substantial and well-balanced menu. The menu has actually been pared down a bit recently and we were disappointed to see that they no longer offer, for example, their delightful pate of duck – along those lines you now must settle for the terrine de foie gras. very nice, but it ought to be at $15. And they’ve also discontinued their attempts with Bocuse-style. low-calorie “Nouvelle Cuisine” (apparently because of lack of interest from their clientele) But instead we’ve enjoyed such dishes as the roast quail in truffle sauce, an absolutely brilliant preparation The “Boeuf Fores-tière,” described by the waiter as “just a fancy stew – but the best stew in the world, is just that – sliced tenderloin with mushrooms and shallots in rich white wine sauce, very tasty, but you can do better on this menu. The mushroom salad, likewise, was good, but not a very inspired choice For lamb lovers, the rack of lamb (for two) is prepared either traditionally or grilled over charcoal, an unusual and commendable option. And the Cote de Veau (veal chop) is still a standout The shrimp with shallots and Pernod sauce is perhaps the best of the hot appetizers and the salsify makes a great side dish; the hot cream of watercress soup is wonderful as always, and their vichyssoise still ranks with the best. And when the waiter asks you at the beginning of the meal if you’d like one of their dessert soufflés, just go ahead and say yes. (2510 Maple/528-0032IDaily 6-11. Sat till midnight/ Reservations/MC V, AE. DCI$$$$)



Patry’s. When the Patry family is at work, you can’t go wrong. Start with the poireaux tarcis (stuffed leeks) or the delicate, light, near-perfect vichyssoise, then have any of the superb entrees a wonderful coq au vin, a filet in a flawless bearnaise. or their splendid escalope of veal The place itself is a bit sterile except for their terrific – and very French – little bar (2504 McKinneyl748-3754l Tue-Fri 6-11. Sat till 11:30IResen/ationslMC. V. AE, DCI$$$)

Pyramid Room. The classiest dining room in Dallas – an aura of affluence and impeccable taste A paragon of service – absolutely professional but without pomposity, including a theatrical sommelier Adizzymg dinner menu of French specialties of the highest order (lunch is less glamorous) The Grand Marnier dessert souffle is a triumph In sum. Dallas’ finest restaurant But even at that, capable of disappointment because it is so expensive Too expensive But always a pleasure if you can pay the price (Fairmont Hote/, floss & Akardl748-5454I Lunch Mon-Fri 11 30-2 30, Dinner Daily 6-midmghtl Reservations/All credit cards/$$$$)

Italian



Campisl’s. The sign says “Egyptian Restaurant,” but the place is strictly Italian, carried on in the proud family tradition of papa Carlo Campisi. whose portrait still watches over the proceedings Dallas’ original pizza specialists – and still the best Or try the plateful of sausage and peppers Warm (in fact steamy) and wonderful – and always a waiting line to prove it (5610 E Mockingbird/827-0355/Mon-Fn 11 a. m.-midnight. Sat till 1 a.m, Sun noon-midnight/No credit cards Checks accepted/Reservations for 6 or morel$)

lanni’s. An undistinguished shopping center facade, an entry lobby tacked with Dallas sports photos and celebrity glossies, and a dining room that’s a vineyard of plastic grapes don’t bode well But lanni’s can surprise you It’s relaxed and unpretentious – a throwback to simpler dining The waitresses are pros and the kitchen is sound if not stunning And the homemade Italian sausage is as good as any in town (2230 Greenville/826-6161/Datly 5 30-11 p.m./Reservations/MC. AE/$$)

IISorrento. Still maintaining the elusive blend of friendliness and intimacy that gives it a unique personality among Dallas restaurants. II Sorrento is competently staffed from strolling musician to head chef Its veal dishes are invariably superb, and the beef entrees – tournedos Rossini and medallions of beef frascati in particular – are outstanding An excellent wine list and a knowledgeable sommelier And the most delightfully hoky decor in town The only major criticism we have is that reservations sometimes get lost and you wind up waiting in the bar anyway Fortunately, the wait is worth it. (8616 Turtle Creek, North of NW Hwy/352-8759/Daily 5 30-11. Sat till midnight/Reservations except on Fri & Sat/All credit cards/$$$)

Italian Pavilion. An out-of-the-way location and rather garish decor are the negatives here Otherwise, the food is excellent, including the delicious hot antipasto and fine veal dishes, particularly the veal Fiorentina. with crab meat, and the veal Gaetano. with madeira sauce and mushrooms Soups and salads are less distinguished, and the service, while pleasant, can be slow A good, moderately priced wine list and excellent cappuccino help round out the generally positive picture of Italian Pavilion (Le Baron Hotel, 1055 Regal Row at Carpenter Fwy/1634-8550/Lunch. Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner- Mon-Thur 6-11, Fri-Sat 6-11:30. closed Sun/Reservations/All credit cards/$$$)

Lombardi’s. No gimmicks, just a delightfully remodeled old house where they serve excellent Italian food at reasonable prices The lasagna (the lightest version imaginable) and the saltimbocca are standouts – maybe the best in town The mamcotti is made with a crépe-like pasta, the pork parmigiana is an unusual delight and the rich green-noodle fettucine is outstanding A warning on the minestrone it is thick and flavorful but stew-like- an appetite killer Lunch is usually less impressive than dinner But everyone is eager to please at Lombardi’s; the service is sophisticated and responsive (2875 Mc-Kmney Ave/823-6040/Lunch Mon-Sat 11-2:30, Dinner: Mon- Thur 6- 10:30, Fri & Sat till 11/Reservations/MC, V, AE/$$$)

Mario’s. One of few Dallas restaurants to take the sophisticated approach and do so with dignity, with natural elegance A longstanding family success, so there is an air of confidence and pride Delicious roquefort-based cheese spread (complimentary), dense and delicious French bread loaves, marvelous fried zucchini Try the Frittura Delizie Romana,” a batter fried spinach appetizer Entrees (northern Italian specialties) are stylish but not exceptional Splendid wine list. (135 Turtle Creek Village!521-1135lDaily 6-11 Sat till midnight/Reserva-tions/All credit cards/$$$)

Pletro’s. In a city without neighborhood restaurants. Pietro’s comes closest to what you’d find in. say, the North End of Boston – homestyle Sicilian cooking with scads of loyal patrons The pasta dishes are the best bets, though Pietros veal scallopini à la Siciliano is excellent Have the crème caramel for dessert Friendly, brisk service, though the “No reservations policy means you II have to wait It’s usually worth it (5722 Richmond oft Greenville/ 824-9403/ Tue-Thur 5:30-10p. m ,Fri&Sat till 11 pm/No reservations /No credit cards/$$)



Oriental



China Inn. A competent, dependable Chinese restaurant, crowded even on weekdays Definitely better at dinner than at lunch Good appetizers, well-prepared sweet and sour dishes The standouts are ginger beef, crackling with mildly hot slices of ginger, and war sue har, delicately fried shrimp with a delicious red sauce. Amiable and quick service (6521 E NW Hwyl361-7733I Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2p.m., Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10:30p.m , Fri & Sal 5-midnight, Sun 11 a.m.-10:30pm./Reservations lor 5 or morelMC. V, AEI$$)



D EVISITS

Chinese Pavilion. Not much is oriental about the decor at Chinese Pavilion The ballroom-sized dining room has such things as chandeliers and eyelet scrims and about a dozen clocks showing the times in London. Paris, New York, and San Francisco (but no cities in China); little has changed since the former tenant – a continental restaurant – moved out The menu is identical to Hunan’s, and it’s still a good idea to put yourself in the waiter’s hands and be treated to the chef’s specialties. The “pu pu” combination appetizer plate – egg rolls, beef stick, very light fantail shrimp, and shrimp toast with ginger – is an excellent first step, followed by the won ton or egg drop soup. After that, any number of main courses, all of which come in generous portions, are worth having. The standouts are Hunan beef. Hunan lamb, shrimp with ginger sauce, shredded pork with mixed vegetables (too oily at a recent sampling), crab velvet – crab meat marinated in egg white and sauteed with mushrooms, ham, and water chestnuts – and the ambitious spicy, crispy whole fish, which comes with an ample and delicious sauce and shallots on a huge platter. For a vegetable dish. Buddhist delight is a lively melange of bamboo shoots, bok choy, carrots, broccoli, water chestnuts, and snow peas. Service at lunch can be grumpy and unconscionably slow; on one rather normal afternoon we’d gotten only the appetizer tray in the first hour. The dining room is often overheated, too brightly lit, and overwhelmed by piped-in music But for the food, the chef at Chinese Pavilion gets the mandate from heaven (2829 W. Northwest Hwy/357-5777ISun-Thur 11:30a.m.-11 p.m.. Fri & Sat till midnight/ReservationslMC, V. AEI$$)



Hunan. Currently Dallas’ best Chinese restaurant, The Hunan cuisine that is its specialty is milder than you’ll find in New York, but still potent, Have the “pu pu tray” of appetizers, and then you’re on your own – it’s all good (though we recommend Hunan Lamb, Champagne Chicken, and Shrimp with Garlic Sauce). Small and comfortable, but service is sometimes haughty and cold. (5214 Greenville Ave at Lovers Ln/369-4578IMon-Thur 11.30 a.m.-11 p.m., Fri. Sat & Sun 11 -midnightlReserva-tionslMC. V. AEI$$)

Peking Palace. Once the pacesetter for Dallas Chinese restaurants, Peking Palace has fallen far behind. Appetizers and entree that once drew superlatives now often come out unimaginatively seasoned and even greasy Only the soups, for some reason, show the old high quality. Occasionally a meal here is what it once was, but only the service and decor are consistently good. (4119 Lomo Alto/522- 1830ILunch: Mon-Fri 11 30-2:30. Dinner: Mon- Thur5- 11,Fri & Sat till midnight, Sun noon-10 pm.l Reservations on weekendslMC, V, AEI$$)

Ports O’Call. The menu now docks in many new ports (wiener schnitzel from Germany, steak au poivre from France, etc.). though the featured fare is still mostly Polynesian. And nothing special at that – but then that’s never been the appeal here anyway The attractions are the lavish (almost ludicrous) dining rooms, the 37th floor view with the “big-city ” feeling, and the exotic rum concoctions in the tiki-god-and-blowfish bar – try the Test Pilot, limit 2 per customer (Southland Center. 2117 Live Oak/742-2334 Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30: Dinner: Daily 5:30-10:30IReservationslAII credit cardsl$$$)

Royal Tokyo. As far as service and consistency of cuisine are concerned, Royal Tokyo seems to have risen from its period of decline. But it’s not quite the star it once was. Perhaps the competition has forced it to Americanize its menu, because the sauces and seasonings are anything but delicate. A pity, because real Japanese cuisine is among the most subtle in the world Still a pleasantly appointed place Try the shabu-shabu, a variation on sukiyaki. (7525 Greenville Avel368-3304ILunch Daily 11.30-2, except Sat, Dinner. Mon- Thur 5:30-11I.Fri&Sat till 11:30, Sun 5-10IReservationslMC. V, AS. DCI$$$)

South China. Quiet and consistent. South China continues to distinguish itself from the ever-increasing hordes of competitors The combination appetizer plate is perhaps the best in Dal las and the Mandarin specialties that follow usually keep up the pace: fine sizzling rice soup, moo shi pork, beef with green onion and ginger, and tantalizing sweet and sour shrimp Black bean sauce is a favorite here – try it over the braised chicken and you’ll see why Their new spinoff restaurant. Chu’s in Addison. shows promise of being even better (5424 E Mocking-birdl826-5420/Lunch. Daily 11:30-2:30, Sal & Sun noon-2:30. Dinner: Mon-Thur 5-11. Fri & Sal 5-/2, Sun 5-10/ ReservationslMC, V, AEI$$)

Szechuan. The Lemmon Avenue spinoff of Greenville Avenue’s Hunan restaurant does justice to the parent organization’s menu The first page of Chef Specialties’ is special indeed Try the Hunan Beef. River Shang Pork. House Lamb, or House Chicken. The more traditional items, such as hot and sour soup, moo shi pork, or lo mein, are also recommended The dining room is on the stark and sterile side, and the service is sometimes charming but inarticulate A pleasant oasis in the fast food desert (4117 Lemmon near Douglasl521-6981I Daily 11:30 a.m. -11 p.m , Fri & Sat till midmghtlResen/a-tions on weekends/MC, V, AE. DCI$$)

Trader Vic’i. Have fun. but don’t expect anything sublime here – they cover too much ground to have any specialties except the wacky drinks (gardenias floating in rum punch, and so on) The creamed curry dishes are nice, the Indonesian lamb interesting, and the Chinese dishes varied but over-sweet. But while the mood may be fun, the prices are serious. Just have another Samoan Fog Cutter and you may not even notice (Hilton Inn, 5600 N Cen Expwyl827-3620IDaily 5-11 p.m., weekends till midnight/Reservations/All credit cards/$$$)



Spanish



Gitana. In setting alone. Gitana is one of the most pleasant restaurants in town, so it’s nice to report that the food has become consistently good. Particularly the appetizers – with the ratatouille and the fried artichoke hearts as standouts As for entrees, the paella is only average, but the shrimp dishes are excellent Lunch features linguine and a rich fettucine, as well as some pleasant salads and sandwiches Good wine selections and excellent sherries Service is erratic (3236 McKmneyl521-4360ILunch: 11-2. Dinner: 6-11. closed MonlAE. V. MCI$$)



Mexican



Adalante. An odd little spot in an almost secretive behind-the-shopping-center location But once you find it. you’ll surely find your way back Fantastic and unique Mexican food graced with flair and freshness Thin, grease-tinged tostadas made on the spot. nachos buried in fresh relishes, flautas with fabulous guacamole, delicate green chile quiche, and an egg and tortilla dish called “Chila-quiles’ – both subtle and exotic And don’t pass up the unbelievable praline cheesecake Bar by membership.’ (5934 Royal Lnl691-830IIMon-Thur 11 a.m.-9 p.m . Fri & Sal till 10 p.m . closed SunINo reservations! MC. V. AEI$)

Chiqutta. One of the most cheerful restaurants in town, and – at least where Mexican food is concerned – one of the best. Tex-Mex has never been Chiquita’s forte, but they serve some sensational specialties, like an excellent tortilla soup and fabulous chicken sour cream enchiladas In their new location they’ve stopped serving complimentary cups of bean soup, so order some – it may be the best this side of the border Always crowded, but always delightful (3810 Congress, off Oak Lawnl 521-0721IMon-Sat 11 30-11/No reservations/MC, V, AE! $)

El Taxco. No frills as far as ambience is concerned, but what they don’t spend on decor they must spend on food, for El Taxco serves some of the best Tex-Mex in town at prices low enough to cause a double-take The standard stuff is excellent but the more adventurous dishes, such as the Carne Tampiquena and the wonderfully named Tostadas a la McCaffrey, are well-seasoned, ample, and delicious Go when you feel laid back (2126 N St Paul/ 742-0747/Wed-Mon 10:30 a.m. -9 p.m . closed TueINo reservations/MCl$)

Herrara Cafe. Home-cooked Tex-Mex from two odd locations The ludicrous-looking newer version on Lemmon Avenue serves the same great food as the original adobe hole-in-the-wall on Maple But at the Lemmon location, quality is not a certainty Visit Maple for good old fat flour tortillas hot off the grill, wonderful burritos, great guacamole And the menudo is a community tradition (3902 Maple/526-9427 Weekdays 9 a.m -8 p.m.. closed Monl No reservations/No credit cards/$)

Javier’s. This warm and attractive restaurant has come into its own in its few months of operation, establishing itself as a rival for the several established Mexican restaurants that try to demonstrate the variety of Mexican cuisine. No Tex-Mex at all here Javier’s has the knack of seasoning food without overpowering it Try the Red Snapper Javier, the Garlic Shrimp Guaymas, and the Corazon de Filete (a tenderloin filet with huitlacoche crepes) For dessert have the Cajeta Crepes. They’re now serving lunch, though they haven t quite got that act together yet (4912 Cole Avel521 -4211 /Weekdays 1 1-11 .Fri & Sat tillt 11:30. closed SunlReservationslMC. AE/$$)

Raphael’s. Another old favorite in a slump, though the crowds haven’t changed On recent visits, only the chicken nachos and the rich and tangy enchiladas en mole were up to the standards this restaurant once set A little more care and a slowing down of an almost too-successful operation might cure Raphael’s ills (3701 McKinneyl 52l-9640IMon-Fn 11:30 a.m-10:30 p.m, Sal noon-10 30. closed Sun/Reservations Mon-Thur only/MC, V. AEI$$)



Greek



Greek Key. A lively longstanding favorite marked by belly dancing, customer participation, and other revelry But the kitchen is serious, doing a creditable |ob of filling the Dallas Greek food void Dolmas. pastilsa. spanakopita, moussaka (or try the combination plate) Forgo the “Grecian shrimp.’ but don’t pass up the baklava delicately seasoned with walnuts and honey, finished off by a demi-tasse of heavy Greek coffee. (2903 W Northwest Hwy/ 358-5177/Mon-Sat 11 a.m.-2 a.m., closed SunlAII credit cardslReservationsl$$)

Goldfinger. More successful as a lively, raucous nightclub than as a restaurant, but Goldtinger does provide some of the city’s best Greek food – a woefully limited aspect of Dallas’ cuisine. So, while you re clapping and singing with the Greek musicians, try the flaming saganaki. the avgolemeno soup, the shrimp and meat kostas. and the veal venetikia And the dolmas are a must (2905 Cridelle at W Northwest Hwyl350-6983IMon-Fri 11 a.m.-2 a.m.. Sat-Sun 6 pm-2 a.m./Reservations/All creditcardsl$$$)



Southern Specialties



Celebration. Some of the homestyle pride seems occasionally to be missing from the homestyle cooking since the expansion of this friendly place But still a good spot for a wholesome meal at a reasonable price Pot roast is the best of the five entrees Plus big bowls of good family-style-help-yourself vegetables Beer and wine are available now, but try the apple juice at least once – it’s great (4503 W Lovers Lnl351-5681IMon-Sat 5.30-11. Sat till 10:30/No reservations/MC. VIS)

Dixie House. Good food, amiable service, and great drinks The style is comfortable and casual – a great place fora lunch break, but not if you re dieting, since the cuisine is calorie-loaded Southern style The meat loaf, the pot roast, and the pork chops are standouts. The fried chicken is a specialty,’ but not to all tastes. The catfish is variable, and sometimes the French fries are a bit fishy Try the beer-batter-fned onion rings Another McKinney Avenue restoration – comfortable and low-keyed, without ersatz nostalgia. (2822 McKinney/823-007’1i’Mon-Thur U-11.Fri &.Sat till midnight, Sun noon-11INo reser-vationslMC, V. AEI$$)

Sonny Bryan’s. Best barbecue in town’ You’ll never get a consensus, but this one gets a lot of votes Juicy, juicy stuff in a funky, funky little smokehouse No tables – you eat on individual school desk tops Beer, no bar (2202 Inwoodl357-7120/Mon-Sat 6 a.m -6 p m.. Sun 11-2/No reservations/No credit cards/$)



Indian



India House. The only one in town, so its nice that this Indian restaurant is as good as it is. and that the staff is eager to introduce you to the delights of its cuisine. The Shahi House dinner will give you a bit of everything, but if you want to experiment, try the Mulligatawney soup, the Parantha Ahu (sort of like a puffed taco), the Tandoori dinner (a bright orange chicken dish), or the Bhunna dinner (lamb and rice pilau). The varieties of bread and the chutneys must be sampled A restaurant that has improved, added pungency to its offerings over the past year (5422 E Mockingbird/832-1000/Lunch:daily 11:30-2:30. Dinner: 5-10. Fri & Sat until 11/Reservations/All credit cardsl$$)



Natural Foods



Health Nut Dallas original full-scale natural foods restaurant – and still a unique institution – is comfortably settled now in its airy and attractive Lovers Lane location, crowned by a lovely sun-terrace room upstairs Good sandwiches, light and imaginative soups, and wonderful salads – a fresh vegetable salad with tahini dressing or, even better, a fresh fruit salad in a delicious lemon-honey dressing. A special steamed meal daily (Tuesday is Mexican and Wednesday is Oriental) And. or course, smoothies. (4356 W Lovers Lnl692-1411lMon-Sat 11 a.m.-9 p.m.INo reservationslMCI$)



Delicatessens



Kuby’s. Busy and bustling Excellent homemade sausages (served with hot potato salad or sauerkraut), thick sandwiches (try the pastrami), great pastries, and a soup of the day which is a lunchtime bargain (80￠) A congenial spot with a German accent. (6601 Snider Plaza/363-2231/Mon-Sat 8:30-2:30, sandwiches till 5:30/No reser-vations/MC – $15 minmum/$)

Wall’s. A small deli with a whiff – but only a faint one – of the New York style it emulates. Fortunately, the Kosher delicacies are good, but stick to them – other items, like quiche Lorraine, are inferior. The gefilte fish is good, and the chopped liver on superlative rye bread is excellent. The cabbage soup is hearty, weil-seasoned and served piping hot, and the cheese blintzes are delectable. Unfortunately, the service is alternately pushy and martyred (10749 Preston Rd/691-4444/Daiiy 7:30 a.m.-7.30 p.m./ No reservations/MC. Vl$$)



Seafood



S & D Oyster Company. Excellent oysters and shrimp and a few broiled fish – usually snapper or trout – when they re available. They wisely avoid the fancier stuff – crab or lobster or clams – that has to be shipped in frozen Simplicity of preparation is the key to this restaurant’s well-deserved success For lunch, oyster loaf – fried oysters on a French roll with tartar sauce – is a good choice For dinner, have some boiled shrimp for starters and finish off with their home-made pie A bit noisy, but the place is for eaters as opposed to diners. Beer and wine only (2701 McKinney near Routhl823-6350IMon-Thur 11 a.m.-10 p.m.. Fri Sat till 11. closed Sun/No reservationslMCI$$)



Steaks, Burgers, Etc.



Chill’s. Terrific enormous hamburgers, great spicy chili, and wonderful French fries at wonderful prices The Terlin-gua special, embellished with everything in the house, shows you what they can do If you’re feeling more conservative, have the Old Timer You’ll have to wait, day or night, but it’s worth it, and once you re inside, the service is speedy (7567 Greenville Ave at Meadow Rd/361-4371 /Daily 11 am.-midnight. Fri & Sat till 2 a.m./No res-ervationslMCl$)

Houlihan’s. With a menu ranging from a hot dog to roast duck and touching on most everything in between, there are no great expectations Which is why Houlihan’s is usually a pleasant surprise – despite the scope, there are lots of hits and few misses Very good omelettes, burgers, quiche, nice salads and several more ambitious options (stuffed shrimp, baked trout, etc ) A host of rich and gooey desserts and cappuccino – a good spot for midnight munchies (4 NorthPark East/ 361 -9426/Daily 11 a.m-1 30 a.m /No reservationslMC, V. AE. DCI$$)

Ichabod’s. Slick in the Greenville Avenue tradition, but Ichabod’s is nevertheless a very pleasant and dependable place The key to their success is a limited menu of steaks and seafood with nothing so elaborate that the kitchen staff can’t handle it A nice dining area with its own entrance to separate it from the teeming swingles bar (Old Town. 5500 Greenvillel691-2646ILunch. Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. Dinner: daily 6-11INo reservations/All credit cardsl$S)

Kirby’s. Simply astonishing steaks at prices that will please if not astonish you Kirby’s is the only place to think of if all you want is a steak It has some other things going for it great baked potatoes, a battery of motherly waitresses, and a Fifties-style decor that’s funky without trying to be But the main thing here is the beef. (3775 Greenville/ 823-7296ITue-Sun 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat till midnight/ Reservations/All credit cardsl$$)

Stoneleigh P. An Oak Lawn favorite and eclectic hangout A restoration of what was long a pharmacy – clever but not cutesy Provolone cheeseburgers on pumpernickel are the favorite among many goodies. Great magazine rack (browsing encouraged) and fabulous juke box (from Bach to Stones) (2926 Maplel741-0824IMon-Thur 11:15-midmght, Fri & Sat till 1:30 a.m.. Sun 12-12: bar daily till 1 a.m.. Fri & Sat till/2INo reservations/No credit cardsI$)



D REVISITS

Strictly Ta-Bu. Word had been given to us that Ta-Bu had, in recent months, really polished the act in its kitchen and that things were revamped and revitalized. Actually, it seems pretty much like the same old place to us – and there’s really nothing wrong with that. The only problem here anyway has been erratic performance and on recent visits there have been no pitfalls The thing to remember about Ta-Bu is that it is old and it is intentionally tacky. Your entrance is as likely to be greeted with the smell of stale beer as fresh pizza. And if pink flamingos or ragged carpet bother you. don’t bother. What you get here is a dark, cozy, neighborhood bar with live jazz and fair to excellent food The pizza has always been good (unless it sits cooling on the counter) and as meaty as they come – try a double cheese, hamburger, mushroom, and onion for a beefy, all-Amencan pizza. The only complaint is that they’re small and expensive. Good hamburgers, or, for a change, the Ta-Bu special is a fat hot sandwich of ham, turkey, bacon, and cheese, sauced with thousand island on a rye bun The dinner specials aren’t stunning, but they re a nice touch for a bar. a dry but decent red snapper, an overdone but decent butterfly pork chop, a small but decent filet. The soup of the day seems as often as not to be mushroom, but it’s quite good Just a friendly, funky place, an easy place for an easy meal. (4111 Lomo Altol526-9325IMon-Fri 5 p.m.-2 a.m.. Sat 6 p.m.-1 a.m.INo reservationslMC. V/$$)



T.G.I, Friday’s. This may be Dallas’ junk food paradise – if junk food means luscious hamburgers (still among the best in town), a munchy concoction called “nacholupas, the biggest salad you’ll ever see. and even rhubarb pie Good steak bargains, much-improved omelettes, and the half chicken is a superb meal The place is lively as ever, with lots of swingles and a little of everything else. (Old Town. 5500 Greenvillei363-5353I Daily 11.30 a.m. -2 a.m.INo reservations/MC, V, AE/$$)



Mainly For Lunch



The Bronx. A warm and funky little place with few pretensions ana some terntic rood coming from its kitchen Nothing fancy, just great omelettes (served with a side of Italian sausage and a toasted bagel), sausage sandwiches. mushroom meatloaf. and a hot pastrami on toasted rye that ranks with the best. By all means have dessert homemade pies and cheesecake and a chocolate mousse thai will bring you to your knees Lunch seems to be in general a better bet than dinner Beer and wine only, but a great selection of that, and a friendly, casual atmosphere. (3835 Cedar Springs near Oak Lawn/521-5821/ Daily 11:30-12 30 a.m, bar till 2/No reservations/ MC/$$)

Ciro’s. Great Sicilian-style pizza and an attractive array of elaborate sandwiches in an airy, old-time corner store at McKinney and Hall. The “wine bar” serves tine wines by the glass, the beers include some nice imports, and there’s a great hard apple cider with a real kick (3237 McKinney at Halt/745-9464/Mon-Wed 11 30 a.m -3p m., Thur & Fri till midnight, Sat till 1 a.m., closed Sun/No reservations/MC/$$)

Gallery Buffet. An expertly catered buffet table at the Dallas Museum of Fine Arts, featuring hearty soups, salads, homemade breads, and desserts for only $3. Wine extra (DMFA, Fair Parkl421-4I87/Tue-Fri 1130 am-130 p m.INo reservations/No credit cards/S)

The Magic Pan. Yes. it’s a chain restaurant, and sometimes it shows Fortunately, the crepes themselves are very good, even if the soups and salads that precede and/or accompany them are thoroughly ordinary. Try the creamed chicken crêpes with a sprinkling of parmesan. And for dessert, have the Chantilly – banana slices in a stunning sauce topped with real whipped cream and toasted almond slivers That alone explains why there’s always a line halfway down NorthPark Mall (NorthPark – New Malll692-7574IMon-Thur 11 a.m. -midnight, Fri till 1 a m , Sat 10 a.m. -1 a.m. Sun 10 a m.-midnighl/No res-ervationslMC, V. AE, DCI$$)

The Zodiac Room. A local institution that has begun to lack luster, though loyalists still flock there Lunch is better than the Thursday buffet When things are going right, the hot popovers. the cream of spinach soup, the sea and garden salad, and the vanilla ice cream ball with phenomenal hot fudge sauce are stunning But things don’t always go right, so you’ll have to decide for yourself whether the Zodiac is a tradition worth observing (Nei-man-Marcus, downtown/741-6911IMon-Sat 10:30 am -2:30 p.m.; teatimedaily 3-5 p.m except Thur 2.30-3:30; Thur dinner 5-7 p.m. IReservationslNeiman-Marcus charge card only, checks acceptedI$$)



Fort Worth Restaurants



Angelo’s. A name that’s known across the state as one of Texas’ premiere barbecue pits And it is Great beef, rich spicy sauce, big sandwiches, cold draught, and a setting that fits – West Texas rustic and sawdust floors And overlooking the proceedings is a monstrous stuffed bear – a landmark himself (2533 White Settlement Rdl(817)332-0357IMon-Sat 11-10INo reservations/No creditcardsI$)

The Balcony. Perched in the second story of a shopping center. The Balcony serves well-prepared but not extraordinary food Standouts are the onion soup, a red snapper prepared with crab, lobster, and a subtle mushroom sauce; and a pleasant veal dish served with Wisconsin cheese (6100 Camp Bowie Blvdl(817)731-3719ILunch Mon-Fn 11 30-2, Dinner Daily 6-1 1/P.eservationslMC.V AEI$$$)

Le Bistro. French style in Fort Worth, a stones throw from the Kimbell An impressive wine rack, subtle Gallic decor, but sometimes rather routine work in the kitchen Good assorted hors d oeuvres and an authentic French onion soup, a real treat Take your chances with the entrees, however – the French on the menu is better than the French in the food (3322 Camp Bowiel(817) 332-51021 Brunch Tue-Fri 11.30-2.Dinner Tue-Sat530-930/fies-ervationslMC. Vl$$$)

Carriage House. Remodeling has helped this restaurants atmosphere but they need to remodel the kitchen staff too What a restaurant this would be if every dish were as good as some of the beef dishes especially the excellent Chateaubriand or the fork-tender lilet mignon A lack of linesse mars everything else, especially the seafood and the desserts The service is unassuming and expert – too bad its professionalism isn’t found in the kitchen. (5236 Camp Bomel(817) 732-2873/Lunch Sun-Fri 11-2.Dinner Daily 6-11 IReservationslMC.V AEI$$$)

Cattleman’s. A famous Texas name that still delivers, and still from its original location right in the heart of the stockyards The steaks are the thing here and they re terrific – you can watch them being cooked on the grills at the end of each dining room Lots of other options, ranging from calf fries (Mountain Oysters”) to lobster and spaghetti (2458 N Main(817) 624-3945/Mon-Fri 11 am -10.45 p m , Sat4 -10:45 p.m. , closed SunlReserva-tions/AII credit cardsl$$)

Old Swiss House. Dependable but not dazzling The veal dishes, though on the heavy side, are the recommended house specialties The veau Zunchoise. for instance, is tasty but immobilizing. The veau aux champignons is simpler and more delicate Excellent filet mignon and good fish dishes, including a lovely Nova Scotia salmon appetizer It’s a Fort Worth institution, but it’s also rather stuffy, though the fresh flowers and the slice of lime in each glass give the place a gracious air The extensive wine list is strong in Californias and the service is quick and polished (5412 Camp Bowiel817-738-8091IMon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat till 10:30, closed SunlReservationsI MC. V, DC. AEI$$$)