Wednesday, January 26, 2022 Jan 26, 2022
41° F Dallas, TX

Leslie Brenner “Gestalt” Alert!

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Awhile back in the magazine, I drew attention to DMN critic Leslie Brenner’s favorite crutch word: “gestalt.” (Her predecessor was fond of the word “swarthy.”) Clearly I have too much time on my hands. I should take up yarn bombing or something. Anyway, I couldn’t help but notice the latest “gestalt” from Brenner, this time in a review of the Commissary. To wit:

Many of the burgers come in two sizes, 6-ounce or 8-ounce, and they arrive cut in half. I like that the 6-ounce burgers get smaller buns — proper bun-to patty-ratio is so essential to overall burger gestalt — but sliced in half, those smaller burgers fall apart when you pick them up, ruining the effect.

I also couldn’t help but notice that when I ate at Commissary last week, my burger didn’t come sliced in half.