Sara the intern just returned from a hunt for Spanish cheese at Scardello. She files this report: (Sara, put on your helmet, here come the blue meanies.)
With the rise in popularity of Spanish wines, foodies (sorry, Nancy) will naturally turn to that most perfect of accompaniments, cheese. Manchego is available at most stores these days, but there are tons of other flavorful, artisan Spanish cheeses with interesting flavors, shapes, and back stories.
In Spain, cheese plates typically come with whatever is regional and available, but Dallas some great sources for cheese from all over the world. I just checked out Scardello on Oak Lawn where owner Rich Rogers walked me through a free Spanish cheese lesson. (They’ve got wine too.) Here are the notes from my “tour.”
“I think Spanish cheeses are a good value, and the tough part is finding cheeses that aren’t factory-produced,” said Rogers. “The good news is, with a bunch of these, there is only one producer, like Monte Enebro.”
Here are just a few of the Spanish cheeses at Scardello:
Leonora: a fluffy, lemony goat cheese that goes perfectly with sweeter white wines. I had never tried this one, and Rich cut me a nice hunk (Cheese shops really are the best thing in the world.)
Monte Enebro: technically a blue goat, because of the Roquefort mold covering, with a creamy, snow-white middle and strong flavor. Made by one man and his daughter in Avila, it’s expensive but worth it if you can find it.
Zamorano: “I try to steer people who come in asking for Manchego towards Zamorano,” said Rogers. “It’s a bit more flavorful and complex.” This sheep’s cheese has been made for centuries and goes well with Zinfandels.
Cabrales: “This is a really big blue,” said Rogers. “I wouldn’t eat it alone, but put it with a grilled steak and it goes perfectly.” This is my personal favorite blue; it’s ashy and grayish-purple and cave-aged. In Asturias, where it’s made, sidra is a popular match—it’s an alcoholic apple cider served in sidrerias (cider houses), and the acidity and sweetness of the fruit cuts the strong flavor perfectly.
Torta del Casar: I was surprised to see this at Scardello, and will have to go back and buy a chunk before it’s gone. This is a great sheep cheese for a party, because of the way it’s typically served; it’s a small round cake, and when it’s ripe you slice off the top and can eat it almost like a dip, because the inside is creamy and runny. Toast some baguettes or slice up veggies and you’ve got a five-minute app. Scardello will cut you a piece to order, but I would get the whole thing. Trust me, it’s worth it.
Tetilla: Didn’t see this at Scardello, but I have seen it recently at Whole Foods. The name basically refers to its shape: it means “from the tit of the cow.” It’s creamy and buttery and melts really well; make a grilled Serrano ham sandwich with this.