FOOD & DRINK

CATERING

BORN TO COOK

Richard Gussoni keeps food in the family.



IF YOU HAVEN’T HEARD OF Richard Gussoni, you have probably tasted his food at the Meyerson Symphony Center, the Belo Mansion, or attending a wedding at the Aldredge House in East Dallas. His thriving catering and restaurant management business is also responsible for feeding folks at the Stale Capitol, Love Field and many private functions. Three years ago, Culinaire, Gussoni’s catering company, opened the popular Italian restaurant Nicola’s at the Dallas Galleria.

Gussoni, 42, is a second-generation immigrant who was born into the food service industry. His great uncle Tobia was the chef to Pope Pius XII and later one of the mob’s most notorious families. His father worked at New York’s posh 21 Club and was maitre d’ of the Plaza and Berkshire hotels.

After graduating from The Citadel in 1976, Gussoni oversold himself during a job interview for a waiter’s position at a South Carolina country club. When he was tapped as maitre d’, he spent his last $40 ordering food at a fine restaurant nearby to make sure he could help deliver French service. Gussoni has been delivering ever since. His philosophy: “We believe if you take care of the customer, the business will follow,” says Gussoni.

Uncle Tobia would be proud.

-Helen Bond

soups

A Ladleful of the Best Soups in Town

OF SOUP AND LOVE, THE I first is best,” says a Spanish proverb.

Dallas residents take that to heart; they’re big soup eaters, with four clear favorites: the mushroom soup at The Grape. the tortilla soup at The Mansion on Turtle Creek and the tomato soup at La Madeleine and at City Cafe. I’ve tried them all, loved them and am ready to add my other favorites to the list, after extensive research during the past year.

The Pyramid Room ladles an exquisite bowl of lobster bisque-smooth, creamy and rich-to enjoy along with their tasty breads.

The Mainstream Fish House has a killer soup called New England Bread Pot Shrimp that combines shrimp, clam chowder and a sourdough bowl.

Both Lavendou and its parent Chez Gerard turn out a spectacular French onion soup, crowned with a tasty puff of cheese, and Going Gourmet pours a nice potato leek soup. Chamberlain’s dazzles with a Brazilian black bean soup, and Cathy’s Pacific has a not-to-be-missed bouillabaisse. Beau Nash serves a super grilled corn and smoked chicken soup, but one of my favorites is the corn and applewood-smoked bacon and Swiss chard soup dished up at Americana.

I’ve heard about more-the matzoh ball chicken soup at Gilbert’s, the coconut-shrimp soup at Tarazza, the clam chowder at Cafe Pacific-and spoon in hand, I’m still on my mission.

-Suzanne Hough

GRAPEVINE

STARRING ROLE FOR MESSINA HOF WINES

Wines from Bryan-based Messina Hof, one of Texas’ largest wineries, make their screen debut in The Evening Star, the sequel to Terms of Endearment Star features Messina Hof 1995 Barrel Reserve Chard on nay, 1994 Barrel Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and 1995 Barrel Reserve Pinot Noir in various scenes set in Houston.

The wines were selected after a Hollywood producer saw them in an article in Beverage World magazine. The wines, whose labels were created by Texas artist Emma Stark, appear in scenes set in the home of the main character Aurora [Shirley MacLaine), in the Rainbow Lodge restaurant and in the Rice Epicurean grocery store.

Messina Hof wines are consistently among the finest from Texas and, among them, the Pinot Noir is noteworthy with a good balance of acid, rich cherry and smoky hues-quite an accomplishment for Texas, whose tough cli-mate often pummels delicate, fussy wine-grapes. These wines, $9.99 to $12.99, are available at Marty’s, Sigel’s and Red Coleman (Greenville).

-Mark Stuertz