TREND: FUR
From
the traditional designs of Ralph Lauren to the rock ’n’ roll creations
of John Galliano, fur—real and fake—dominates the season. Michael Kors’
lavender fox coat, mink poncho, and funky fur hats punch up his neutral
palette and tailored designs. Sable is a basic at Chado Ralph Rucci,
with luxurious ponchos, stoles, and coats paired with suede and
cashmere. Rucci’s structured horsehair jacket—gorgeous but more
conceptual than wearable—topped a black bugle-beaded skirt. Luca
Orlandi of Luca Luca accessorized his slinky silk blouses and fitted
coats with fur cuffs and collars.
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CAROLINA HERRERA
|
MICHAEL KORS |
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| OSCAR DE LA RENTA | MARC JACOBS |
TREND: EMBELLISHMENTS
Beading,
jewels, lace, ruffles, brooches, and feathers decorated sweaters,
coats, dresses, and pants. Miuccia Prada cinched waists with grosgrain
ribbon and sparkling belts and scattered jeweled pins over full-skirted
dresses (think 1950s prom nights). Oscar de la Renta showed sweaters,
dresses, and coats adorned with jewels, beading, fur, and feathers. He
glammed up classic cashmere, silk, tweed, and chiffon with guinea
feathers and edged embroidered suits in sable.
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| LOUIS VUITTON | PETER SOM |
TREND: JACKETS
Flatteringly
fitted jackets are cropped at the waist or slide smoothly over the hip.
Jackets have unfinished hems and jewel trim. Karl Lagerfeld constantly
reinvigorates
Chanel’s iconic tweed jackets. This fall, he plays with a pastel color
palette and adds raw edges, which have already been widely copied.
Tuleh’s designer, Bryan Bradley, created tweed jackets with choppy
cuts, extended cuffs, and lapels adorned with flowers. Oscar de la
Renta jazzed up his tweed with jewels, adding a touch of elegance to a
fabric that can otherwise appear boyish. Marc Jacobs played fitted
tweed jackets off sparkly sequined skirts and blouses for the prim and
properly chic.
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| CHANEL | OSCAR DE LA RENTA |
TREND: RICH COLORS
Fall’s
earthy palette of moss, dark brown, and soft neutrals is teamed up with
jewel tones like crimson, royal purple, midnight blue, and emerald
green. Metallics and antique hues add energy to basic tweeds, chiffons,
and knits. Vibrant violets, robust reds, bright blues, kelly green, and
screaming yellow accent some of the more daring collections, such as
those from Versace, Anna Sui, and Peter Som.
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| LOUIS VUITTON | MARC JACOBS |
TREND: EVENING GOWNS
Cocktail-length
dresses have dominated late-night attire for several years, but this
season brings the return of the floor-length evening gown, made fresh
with beading, ruffles, or feathers. Show-stopping gowns with sass and
swagger poured down the runway in black lace, bright colors, and liquid
metallics. Sequined gowns in Tom Ford’s lauded farewell collection for
Gucci were memorable with acid-hued greens and blues. Donna Karan
showed a red-carpet-ready gold-sequined and black tulle gown. Derek
Lam’s silk jacquard evening dress, although cocktail-length, glittered
with a jeweled neckline. Embroidered scarves and gold accents gave
Carolina Herrera’s sleek gowns a jolt.
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| GUCCI | VALENTINO |
WHERE TO BUY: Carolina Herrera available at
Stanley Korshak; Chado Ralph Rucci, Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, Prada,
Narciso Rodriguez, Valentino, and Zac Posen all available at Neiman
Marcus; Oscar de la Renta available at Saks Fifth Avenue; Luca Luca
available at Luca Luca, Highland Park Village; Louis Vuitton available
at Louis Vuitton, Dallas Galleria; Gucci available at Gucci, Dallas
Galleria; Chanel available at Chanel, Highland Park Village; Peter Som
available at Forty Five Ten.
Photos: Herrera: Courtesy of
Carolina Herrera; Kors: Courtesy of Michael Kors; De La Renta: Courtesy
of Oscar De La Renta; Jacobs: Courtesy of Marc Jacobs; Vuitton:
Courtesy of Louis Vuitton; Som: Courtesy of Petere Som; Chanel:
Courtesy of Chanel; Gucci: Courtesy of Gucci; Valentino: Courtesy of
Valentino
