Restaurant Review: Hibiscus

While many of Graham Dodds’ peers, such as Matt McCallister (FT33) and Omar Flores (Casa Rubia), have garnered national accolades, the equally talented Dodds has stealthily opened Bolsa, the farm-to-fork restaurant that led the North Oak Cliff dining renaissance, and transformed Central 214 from a floundering hotel restaurant into a culinary gem. Dodds recently moved on to Hibiscus, the cornerstone of Henderson Avenue’s dining scene, and the quiet chef is making the kitchen his own. What was once a dependable menu of steaks and seafood now feels refreshed and modern. Dodds’ love for local produce is evident in the memorable toy box tomato salad, with creamy Blue Roan cheese from Waco-based Caprino Royale, house-made bacon, and peppery radicchio. Dodds has retained the spirit of Hibiscus’ wood-grilled past. But now, alongside the Colorado lamb saddle, you’ll find shaved fennel and rhubarb. Spicy bison sausage steals the spotlight from its bison flank steak companion. And wagyu oxtail with crispy gnocchi is a welcome crossover from Dodds’ Central 214 days. The chef plans to eventually overhaul Hibiscus’ dessert menu. But until then, Dodds will continue to do what he does best: cook some of the finest modern American cuisine in the city. He’ll just be quiet about it.