TUXEDO JUNCTION

There it is again at the bottom of the invitation: “black tie.” Yes, men, it’s decision time. Do you belly up to the clothes counter and buy a tux this time or do you throw another $60 into the black hole of tuxedo rental? There are two good reasons for a man to rent a tuxedo: if the only time he’ll ever wear it is to his best friend’s wedding; or if he is constantly losing and gaining weight and changing sizes. Otherwise, he should break down and buy a tux. In Dallas, even a socially inactive man may go to one or two black-tie occasions a year. Party circuit regulars frequently wear a tux once a week during the heavy social season (just after summer till just after Christmas) and twice a month out of season. If it’s worn only a few times a year, a good tuxedo can last indefinitely. Worn frequently, a good tux should last at least five years and even longer with proper care.

Starting at the cheap end, most tuxedo rental shops sell good, used tuxedos. You can get into a gently worn, 100 percent wool tux for between $150 and S175. Throw in $50 for a shirt and $25 for basic studs and cuff links and you’re there.

Moving up a level, Neiman-Marcus offers a basic tuxedo under the Neiman-Marcus label for $325 and an excellent selection of middle-range tuxedos. Giorgio Armani is a good middle-range tux that fits most men well and is available at Saks Fifth Avenue for $695. For those wanting the best, Nei-man’s offers a tuxedo by Oxxford. The Oxx-ford is a very fine, long-lasting tux made in Chicago. Local black-tie party habitue George Lancaster still wears his grandfather’s Oxxford tux bought in the Fifties. Says Lancaster, “People love it. It’s got this ancient Neiman’s label sewn on the inside. It’s in great shape. The lapels are showing no signs of wear. I just take good care of it.”

Men can show off their personal flair with the shoes, tie, and cummerbund. The standard tux shoe is made of black, shiny patent leather, either slip-on or lace-up. But in Dallas, tux shoes are almost the exception rather than the rule. Says Harold Bell of Mister Tuxedo in Snider Plaza, “The shiny patent leather shoe isn’t a necessity. Many men prefer to wear plain-toe black shoes. Which is fine, just no tassles and no wing-tips.” The standard tie and cummerbund are black, of course, but for more festive gents, the choice of patterns is infinite. Silk tie and cummerbund sets start at $40.

-Alan Peppard