Tuesday, May 28, 2024 May 28, 2024
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Restaurant Review: Twisted Root Burger Co.

Their fancy burgers aren't worth the calories.
photography by Kevin Marple

This quirky burger joint was one of the first players in the battle of gourmet burgers in Dallas. It was certainly the first spot to feature a menu written by three chefs, one of them a pastry chef. Almost seven years have passed since Twisted Root opened its first location in Deep Ellum. During that time, the once-small category of fancy burgers in Dallas has been flooded with options. Five of us entered the Bedford location on a crowded Saturday afternoon. There were places to sit, but the tables were covered with trash and half-eaten food left by previous diners. We waited in line for 15 minutes to place our order and returned to the dining room to find the same unbussed spaces. We cleaned our own spot and sat down. Nothing we tried was worth the calories. The build-your-own half-pound burger was so charred and dry that even our addition of house-made chipotle ranch dressing and bacon couldn’t save it. The turkey burger had no detectable spices, but beer-sautéed onions and a healthy dose of guacamole made it palatable. The vegetarian burger made with black beans had the consistency of a Sloppy Joe. As the juice-soaked bun disintegrated, big blobs of smashed beans landed, thankfully, on our makeshift place mats. The thick and greasy batter on the fried pickles and green beans thoroughly dashed any hope of tasting either one. And even though the menu offers venison, elk, lamb, ostrich, kangaroo, and alligator, the “subject to availability” disclaimers make me think it’s just another part of the restaurant’s annoying kitschy shtick.

For more information about Twisted Root Burger Co., visit our online restaurant guide.