Friday, May 24, 2024 May 24, 2024
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Restaurant Review: Lazaranda Modern Kitchen and Tequila

Try the Ultimate Ceviche and a Sol-a-rita on a warm summer night.
Photography by Kevin Marple

The modern Mexican food trend continues to spread. Co-owners Mario Letayf and Antonio Marquez know what they’re doing. They’ve spent 20 years running restaurants in Monterrey, Mexico. Skip the farm-raised tilapia dishes and head straight to the brilliant Ultimate Ceviche, a house specialty of salmon, tuna, and scallops hit with a touch of serrano oil, tamarind, cilantro, red onion, and soy sauce. It’s offered as an appetizer, but the generous portion, served on three round corn tostadas, easily makes a meal. Bolo’s Mahi is an entrée I could eat once or twice a week. The fish is grilled, served on flavorful white rice, and covered with at least a whole chopped avocado lightly tossed in olive oil, fresh garlic, jalapeños, and chile oil. A blue crab enchilada ($6.95) is covered with a guajillo pepper sauce and topped with panela cheese, which almost masked the flavor of the crab. The staff is friendly and efficient, and chef Marquez’s gentle demeanor and infectious smile light up the rather large dining room. The bar features 35 tequilas, and they turn out nice margaritas made with freshly squeezed lime juice and house-made simple syrup. I ordered a Sol-a-rita, a frozen margarita served with a mini bottle of Sol beer inverted in a frosty goblet, and I sipped on it for an hour. It’s a great way to pass time on a hot summer night.

For more information about Lazaranda Modern Kitchen & Tequila, visit our online restaurant guide.