Friday, August 12, 2022 Aug 12, 2022
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Food and Drink

Review: Silver Fox

By Jennifer Chininis |
photography by Kevin Hunter Marple

The latest steakhouse to hit the Oak Lawn area has a lot of competition, with Bob’s just a spud’s toss away. Presumably Silver Fox is doing something right, because this is the fifth outpost. We were surprised at how lonely it felt in the large, clubby space—so different in vibe from the previous tenant, Star Canyon—but with few diners competing for the staff’s attention, we thought we’d be well-attended to. Not so, really. The service all night was sluggish, and the fare was simply hit-and-miss. Although the wine-by-the-glass list was long, we were unpleasantly surprised that a bottle of Estancia Meritage was $20 more than we’d seen it elsewhere; it was less expensive to buy it by the $17 glass. We were a bit bored by the ho-hum wedge covered in average-tasting blue cheese dressing and chopped tomatoes. Better was the III Fork salad, with mixed greens tossed with crumbled blue cheese and candied pecans. The USDA Prime steaks were pretty tasty, and the price ($33.95–$47.95) includes a side dish—in this case, a choice of potato. Tenderloin, available in three sizes, was a meaty, tender, fist-sized chunk of beef; bone-in rib-eye delivered on the expected marbled flavor. Delicious blackened ahi, with a cool, red center and spiced crust, came served with crunchy asparagus spears. The biggest disappointment was the mac and cheese: when it arrived it was a bit of a runny mess, and as it cooled, it developed a weird, coagulated texture. Although it has a silly name, the bananas Foxster was a solid rendition of the retro dessert, with flambeed slices of banana poured over vanilla ice cream and heavily scented with cinnamon. Honestly, though, we wonder if this location can stand up to the tough competition.

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