Lakeside Market, at the intersection of Preston Road and Spring Creek Parkway in Plano, is hardly a hot dining address. But the location serves Mignon well. There aren’t many steakhouses, fancy or otherwise, in this mostly residential area. And though it was born in 2000 as a concept by TGIF owner Carlson Restaurants Worldwide, Mignon has been owned since 2002 by restaurateur Nick Natour, for those who prefer indie spots.
With its arching bar, parchment lights, and colored panes of glass, it remains a handsome room, though most diners opt for the patio overlooking the man-made lake it shares with neighbor Mi Cocina.
Service dotes to the point of distraction, depending on whom you get. Better too much than not enough.
Running the kitchen is chef Celestine Pasquier, who moved here from San Francisco where she worked at, among other places, the Rubicon. Her salads were lovely, like the Bibb lettuce with candied walnuts and blue cheese. And she showed equal grace with seafood and steak. Diver scallops had the right contrast of browned edge and translucent center. Gulf shrimp was basically a pasta dish, with eight to 10 good-size shrimp over fettuccini and sliced asparagus in a creamy lobster sauce.
The menu changes quarterly but always offers steakhouse classics such as bone-in ribeye, crab cakes, creamed spinach, and the like. Warning: should you order a nightly special, ask how much. Save yourself the heart attack when you discover that the unique filet mignon with bone still attached (and not all that much meat) costs—gasp!—$50. Ask also about prices on wine, as a glass of Merryvale Cabernet will set you back $18.
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