Sunday, April 21, 2024 Apr 21, 2024
51° F Dallas, TX
Advertisement
Publications

Review: Chaparral Club

Who goes to Chaparral at the Adams Mark Hotel? Locals not so much—and that’s part of the magic.
|

Beachfront property? Sorry, no. But one thing Dallas does have is hotel sky-high dining. Ring-bearing suitors like the spinning Antares in the Hilton Tower. Foodies favor Nana at the Anatole. But who goes to Chaparral at the Adams Mark Hotel? Locals not so much—and that’s part of the magic. It’s like you’ve entered some foreign urban village.
The view at 38 floors up is a stunner: downtown skyline on one side and I-75 on the other, the proverbial pulsing vein of light. Gazing down at those puny ants, it’s fun to play the role of swaggering oil baron, if only for a night. Which means, yes, steak, whether a juicy 22-ounce, bone-in ribeye or a tuna steak, cooked as rare and red as beef.

Nearly everything about the meal felt on top of the world: rustic breads served warm. Crisp raw vegetables, cut fancy to show the knife skills, and served on ice. A crab cake appetizer, so puffed up with authentic, delicious crab—what filler?—that it nearly burst through its crunchy crust. Bright green asparagus drizzled with butter, the spears trimmed as precisely as an English garden. A lemon-pistachio cake fashioned into a cylinder with laser-sharp edges and a powdery dusting of confectioner’s sugar.

Service, while attentive, lacked the fine polish of the stemware, but the semi-casual attitude and uniforms ended up being a bit of a relief. The air does get thin up there after a while. 400 Olive St. 214-777-6539. $$-$$$.

Update: The Chaparral Club has closed.

Related Articles

Image
Home & Garden

A Look Into the Life of Bowie House’s Jo Ellard

Bowie House owner Jo Ellard has amassed an impressive assemblage of accolades and occupations. Her latest endeavor showcases another prized collection: her art.
Image
Dallas History

D Magazine’s 50 Greatest Stories: Cullen Davis Finds God as the ‘Evangelical New Right’ Rises

The richest man to be tried for murder falls in with a new clique of ambitious Tarrant County evangelicals.
Image
Home & Garden

The One Thing Bryan Yates Would Save in a Fire

We asked Bryan Yates of Yates Desygn: Aside from people and pictures, what’s the one thing you’d save in a fire?
Advertisement