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Nevis, West Indies

Ward off the winter blues with walks in lush gardens, midday naps in hammocks, and scuba dives in the Caribbean.
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Sunsets are a sight to see.

WHY NOW: Because of its size—only 36 square miles—Nevis hasn’t become a tourist trap, unlike many of its less fortunate Caribbean neighbors. You won’t find duty-free haute couture or perfume outlets in the quaint capital town of Charlestown. Instead, the charming streets and the central square are lined with refurbished houses and local businesses. The vibe is low-key and welcoming. Residents, innkeepers, and cabbies exude hospitality. Just one Wednesday evening happy hour at Eddy’s Restaurant & Bar will convince you that Nevis is one of the friendliest places in the Caribbean. The summer temperature rarely tops 80, and the “winter” months are dry and warm. AH, SUGAR: In the early 1700s, Nevis produced the most sugar in the region, thus earning the nickname “Queen of the Caribbees.” Many of the island’s plantation hotels are built in and around the remains of the sugar mills. The Golden Rock Plantation Inn (www.golden-rock.com) offers a romantic windmill tower suite, while the Montpelier Plantation Inn (www.montpeliernevis.com), a 30-acre secluded estate with 17 luxury rooms, boasts gourmet dining. TO THE MOUNTAIN OR THE BEACH? Mount Nevis, the dormant volcano known as Nevis Peak, rises 3,232 feet above the white sandy shores and miles of palm-fringed beaches. The slopes of Mount Nevis and the surrounding foothills are covered with rich vegetation and house myriad wildlife, including the island’s pesky green monkeys. Accommodations range from luxurious five-star properties to quaint hillside plantation inns to small beachfront hotels. Plan for a little of each. Spend a few days relaxing in the nearly 300-year-old Great House in the center of The Hermitage (www.hermitagenevis.com), a lovely property that sits 800 feet above the coast. The pastel guest cottages are classic Nevisian colonial, some with canopy beds. Hammocks are strung randomly on porches among the mango and breadfruit trees that grow on the lush garden property. The grounds hum with the sounds of songbirds by day and tiny bellfrogs by night. After several serene days mountainside, it’s time to groove in the grove at Oualie Beach Hotel (www.oualiebeach.com), where 34 single- and two-story gingerbread cottages, some with large verandahs, line the beach. From here the sea is your playground. Scuba, snorkeling, sport fishing, windsurfing, and kayaking activity centers are just next door. The beachside restaurant serves fine local cuisine, and the outdoor bar is the spot to be at sundown. TO HIKE OR BIKE? Nevis is an outdoor adventurer’s dream. Birds (126 species) and bats (five species) greet you at every turn. Underwater you’ll find four species of sea turtles, and, with a guided tour (see “Underwater Adventure”), it’s possible to get close enough to touch a few. Hiking trails of all categories wind through the lush vegetation of Mount Nevis and the foothills. Jim and Nikki Johnson operate Walk Nevis (www.walknevis.com) and lead a variety of eco-friendly hikes. Two wheels more your speed? Contact local biking authority Winston Crooke at Wheel World (www.mountainbikenevis.com). He’ll set you up to sample the wide variety of riding that the geography of Nevis provides.

Photo: Travis Schlim

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FASTFACTS

How To Get There
Once only reachable by flying to nearby St. Kitts and taking a 45-minute ferry, Nevis now has direct flights from San Juan courtesy of American Eagle. For reservations, call 800-433-7300 or visit www.aa.com.

FACTS

How To Get There
Once only reachable by flying to nearby St. Kitts and taking a 45-minute ferry, Nevis now has direct flights from San Juan courtesy of American Eagle. For reservations, call 800-433-7300 or visit www.aa.com.

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Underwater Adventure

Barbara Whitman can save you from octopi and starfish.

Okay, so you’ve snorkeled all over the world, and you know the difference between a paradise fish and a parrotfish. But have you ever stroked a swimming sea turtle or had a conch hop on your hand? Enter marine biologist Barbara Whitman, who runs a sea-life education center on Oualie Beach called Under the Sea. She begins her Touch and Go Snorkel Trip with an upbeat, humorous presentation on the wacky world of underwater creatures before she herds her students to the aquarium for a real hands-on experience with live sea animals. Then it’s time to hit one of the island’s best snorkeling spots for a guided adventure. Along the way, Whitman points out how to spot a “cleaning station” and how to detect the telltale signs of an octopus that may be hiding inches from your mask. Your underwater experience is enriched by learning why fish have stripes or spots or blotches of color and the symbiotic relationships they have with the colorful coral. Whitman also offers advanced snorkeling day trips. 869-469-1291. www.undertheseanevis.com.

Photo: Katie Whitman

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