Restaurant Reviews

NEWCOMERS



LOVE AND WAR IN TEXAS

Texans have always bragged about their state as if it were a country. When we were annexed to the United States in 1845, the Republic of Texas rebelliously reserved the right to subdivide into live smaller states. We’ve got the size, the diverse cultures, and the varied terrain that lends itself to that patriotic kind of thinking. Hell, it’s farther from Texarkana to El Paso than it is from Chicago to New York. We’re even bigger than France.

The folks behind Love and War in Texas have designed a menu around our forefathers’ dream by separating the state into rive culinary regions. “The Border” offers Tex-Mex inspired dishes; “West Texas Plains.” steaks and potatoes; “Hill Country” spotlights the area’s uniqueness with inspired versions of venison bratwurst and roasted wild boar; “East Texas Piney Woods” showcases catfish from Caddo Lake; and “The Texas Gulf Coast,” Texas Blue crab and Baytown oysters.

To be honest, we winced when we heard about Love and War in Texas. It sounded more like a Louis Lamour paperback than a place to eat. The log cabin exterior with waving Texas flags and blaring country music made us feel like we were about to enter a cheesy roadside Texana theme park complete with caged rattlers and cashiers dressed like sheriffs. Once inside, we rolled our eyes as we passed the requisite deer heads mounted on the walls, the saddles slung about, and the cheery wait staff dressed in jeans and cowboy boots.

The appropriately named Big Tex chicken fried steak was about the size of his belt buckle with tasty tenderized bartered meat spilling over the sides of the platter covered with a lake of peppery cream gravy. The accompanying mashed potatoes had just a touch of garlic and were lumpy in all the right places. An aromatic blackened swordfish from South Padre was grilled to softness over mesquite and flaked instantly to the fork. The only gimmick that didn’t work was the roasted wild boar sandwich. The stringy meat was tough and chewy and the heap of grilled bell peppers, onions, and melted cheese on top couldn’t save it.

601 East Piano Pkwy.. 972-422-6201,$$,



SUZE

Suzie Priore stands at the front door wearing crinkled linen pedal pushers, a sleeveless white blouse, and black flip flops. Her blonde hair is haphazardly piled on top of her head, and she continuously pulls at her bangs. Customers are filing in cooing, “Hey Sue,”and “Suzie darling,” “Sooooozzie! What a marvelous place.” Air kisses, handshakes, and hugs all around. Suze the restaurant is newly opened in the former GoingGourmet location. Suze makes customers feel like they’re part of the party.

She has a knack for dealing with people- no doubt developed after 20 years of running a car repair business with her husband Joe. Idealistically, she believes that dealing with dissatisfied diners will be a walk in the park after handling all those cranky car customers. Throwing elaborate dinner parties is as close to the restaurant business as she has ever been except for some cooking classes at El Centro and a brief stint as pastry chef at Mediterraneo. But suddenly Suzie found herself following her dream of owning her own place-a venture most independent visionaries end up viewing as a nightmare.

It all happened so fast. Ettore Settembre, former owner of Going Gourmet, was apparently a better restaurateur than a driver. His numerous fender benders made him a regular in the waiting room where he would sit with Susie, who patiently listened to his woes-a chef had quit, the dishwasher didn’t show, he was fed up and ready to get out. Undaunted by his dark tales, Suzie decided to go for it and bought the restaurant on the spot. The following day she walked into Going Gourmet and announced to the staff, which didn’t have a clue the business had been sold, that she was the new owner. No one was there to cook, so she gave them the day off and made an emergency call to buddy Russell Hodges, former Americana chef, now busy teaching at AIMS Academy of Culinary Arts. He rushed over, picking up supplies on the way, and got her through the first day, then a second, and then he got hooked and the project gained momentum. Eventually, Suzie snagged former Toscana wiz Gilbert Garza, but Russell still shows up after his classes.

On our first visit we settled into a banquette against the wall. Immediately, the woman at the table next to us leaned over, pointing to her steaming plate of mushroom and shrimp ravioli and gushing, “You’ve got to try this, it’s incredible.”

The attitude is casual, sophisticated, neighborhood friendly-funky Mediterranean fare that rotates continually, making it easy to eat here several times a week. We started with Prince Edward Island mussels steamed in coconut milk, cilantro. and chipotle broth. We have been thinking about the sweet spicy aroma ever since. The seared foie gras was incredible-the edges barely crisped and the texture inside like stiff cream, served with a lied of bitter lettuce dressed with deep fruity balsamic vinegar, which played perfectly off the sweet quality of the meat.

Grilled chicken, usually our least favorite choice, is truly inspired at Suze. A delicious breast comes smothered with kalamata olives, sun dried tomatoes, and feta cheese resting on a bed of fettuccine. A double cut pork chop almost three inches thick and gently rubbed with red curry was gently seared on the outside while the center was cool pink and juicy. It was topped with a not too sweet light dried cherry sauce and topped with plump golden raisins. Excited by our discovery, we borrowed the phone to give our fellow foodies a heads-up. We felt like we’d found a secret that wouldn’t last for long,

As we left, Suzie was standing by herself across the parking lot, gazing back at her name in neon over the door. She seemed to be soaking in the fact that her dream has become a reality. Please don’t anybody pinch her.

4345 W, Northwest Highway @ Midway #270,214-350-6135,$$,



PARIS BISTROT

Sitting on the patio of Paris Bistrot, sipping champagne, and picking at a plate of coarse pate de campagne, we felt we were just a few streets off the Champs Elysée in Paris. The French invasion of Bizu. Bistal, and the wine bar Cork has gradually turned McKinney Avenue into a Dallas version of a Parisian arrondissement. Lovers walk the streets arm and ami gazing into antique shops, stopping for a glass of wine or an apple tart. Cars, honking and screeching tires, speed down the bumpy brick road. We sat for hours, calm amid the hectic race, encouraged by the European pace.

The first sign that we were in a true bistro was when we asked our French waiter Patrick what kind of champagne they served by the glass. His brows furrowed, and his chin tucked towards his neck as he gently scolded us in the gentle indignant manner of the French, “This one a sparkling wine, not a champagne.”

As comedian Steve Martin once quipped, “Oh, those French, they have a different word for everything.”

And they have a different attitude toward their food. At Paris Bistrot, owner Jean-Michel Sakouhi has opened a charming dining room offering authentic classics delicately prepared. Inside, the walls are covered with murals depicting French country scenes, the Eiffel Tower in heavy thick purple, green, and blue paint. Jean-Michel, veteran of the Mansion, Old Warsaw, the French Room and former owner of Tramontana, has a law degree, but he couldn’t stay away from the restaurant business. He gutted an antique shop, but kept the interior divided into quaint separate rooms and hired chef Emmanuel Pose whose resume includes 1717, Hotel Crescent Court, and The Mercury. “If I’m going to work twenty-four hours a day, I’m going to do something that I love.”

Every bite at Paris Bistrot is lovely.

Here you can have a civilized lunch of grilled salmon on sautéed leeks swirled with a deep red beet sauce. The plate is garnished with petite portions of whipped potatoes, delicate julienne vegetables, and tiny balls of squash. A perfect salad layers green beans, dressed greens, and chicken strips.

The kitchen isn’t skimping on any details. Roast chicken, once a delicacy but recently bastardized by the Boston Markets of the world, has been restored at Paris Bistrot. We were served the definitive version, which had obviously been highly fussed over by the chef paying constant attention to the bird during the roasting process. The final product was a half chicken, bone in and skin on. with both white and dark meat plump with clear juice. A two-inch pork medallion, covered slightly with calvados sauce, sliced easily with just a fork. There aren’t loo many kitchens in town that take the time to do what they do here: One bite of the chocolate mousse, firm with the substance of egg, not like whipped cream, and bitter with chocolate, without being too sweet, confirmed that.

2533 McKinney. 214-720-0225,$$,



BARBECUE

D BEST Peggy Sue Barbecue. Though Sonny Bryan’s still wins in the beef sandwich category, the definitive dish : when you’re talking Texas barbecue, Peggy I Sue’s beats Sonny’s by a rib in meats, side ; dishes, and sauces. And the smoked chicken quesadillas alone are worth a trip. The ribs- ! baby backs and pork short ribs-are always ; moist, tender, and free of gristle. A new ! favorite is brisket fajitas-soft flour tortillas tilled with grilled barbecued brisket, onions. and green peppers. 6600 Snider Plaza, 214-987-9188.$.

Red Hot & Blue. The music helps the whole situa-tion-lots of Elvis, Rufus Thomas, and Jerry Lee Lewis set the stage for a mind-set change. Red Hot & Blue’s version of pulled pork is the real thing: a sandwich with a pile offender pork, along with a mound of crunchy, sweet : cole slaw piled high on the sandwich. The dry ribs aren’t anything special until you add the Hoochie Coochie sauce-and spend 10 minutes ’ with your tongue immersed in a glass of ice. 9810 N. Central Expwy.. 214-368-7427. $.

Sammy’s Barbecue. Barbecue for the banking I crowd at bankers’ hours. Everyday at lunch, Sammy’s is full of white-collar types, ties : thrown over their shoulders, chowing on great red-stripe brisket, ribs, and homemade Mom-style pie. No, really-Sammy’s is a family-run enterprise, and all the Pritchards pitch in. 2126 Leonard St., 214-880-9064, $.



BAKERY/SANDWICHES

Corner Bakery. Dallas has a number of excellent bakeries now, but the Corner Bakery holds its own. Country loaves are crusty, and the sweet stuff is all excellent. And the Bakery has a cafe side, serving pizza, tomato-sauced pasta, and sandwiches. 13350 N. Dallas Pkwy., Ste. 2443, 972-934-7001; multiple locations. $.

Harry’s Old Fashioned Hot Dogs. Harry’s serves real Chicago dogs, topped with onions, mustard, peppers, and the authentic neon-green relish-he also serves them smothered with Texas chili, sauerkraut, and pretty much everything else. You have to have custard after a Harry’s dog–even if you’re too full. It’s smoother than crème brulée ever thought about being, and every day there’s a different selection of flavors. This is the kind of place that gives you hope for American culture. 3113 Knox St., 214-520-3113. $.

Highland Park Pharmacy. We can only describe the Pharmacy atmosphere as reassuring. Some people love the Palm Beach (pimiento cheese to you) .sandwich or the tuna salad with cherry cokes. For us. the grilled cheese is the only thing-the American slices melted to glue, the bread buttery and crisp. Chips are extra: sodas and milkshakes are priceless. Lunch only. 3229 Knox St., 214-521-2126. $.



BREW PUBS

D BEST Routh Street Brewery. This place has thrived because the food is as good as the beer. The food, with a German-Texas accent, complements beer and wine equally well. The pork chop is big, juicy, and pink; ale-steamed mussels are plentiful and aromatic; and the vegetable Reuben (ask for it- it’s not on the menu) is a brilliant invention- carroway-seented sauerkraut with melted Swiss on dark pumpernickel. 3011 Routh St.. 214-922-8835.$$.



BURGERS

Angry Dog. The menu is standard bar cuisine, including some great burgers, nachos. and sandwiches, but it extends to include some inspiring options. The Angry Dog-a grilled, all-beef hot dog split and served open-faced, covered with grilled onions, chili, and cheese-is truly fantastic and a bargain at $4.50. For serious beer drinkers, there are 120 beers to choose from. 2726 Commerce St., 214-741-4406.$.

Chip’s Old-Fashioned Hamburgers. Perhaps Dallas’ best rendition of the all-American hamburger is served at Chip’s. Both locations have an atmosphere as wholesome as a Beach Boys song, and the food is fast and fresh, too. A return to a lime of innocence, when a good time could be fueled by nothing more than fries and a shake. The skinny onion rings, rich pig sandwich, and hoi dogs are just lagniappe. 4501 Cole Ave., 214-526-1092; 4530 Lovers Ln., 214-691-2447.$.

D BEST The Prince of Hamburgers. The crispy-edged, toasty bun. the slim but beefy-tasting, just-cooked patty, and the simple but fresh garnitures combine to make the quintessential American sandwich. Prince sticks to the classic accompaniments: thick shakes, incredibly frosty root beer, fries, and fabulous onion rings, all brought to you by a real live person. 5200 Lemmon Ave., 214-526-9081.$.

Purple Cow. This burger-and-shake diner uses Blue Bell icecream and features 10 flavors of milkshakes, including the signature Purple Cow and the Peanut Butter and Jelly. The Blue-Cheeseburger is a great variation on standard soda-shop fare, dripping with rich, creamy blue cheese. But the reason we’ll go back is the grilled Palm Beach-a hot pimiento cheese sandwich that oozes down your arms. It’s worth the price of the dry cleaning bill. 110 Preston Royal Village, 214-373-0037 $.



CHINESE

Arc-En-Ciel. The kitchen employs separate cooks for the Chinese and Vietnamese fare, but everyone really goes there to eat Vietnamese. Our last meal we ordered in a leisurely way, a few dishes at a time-pristine Imperial rolls; shrimp pounded and molded on sugarcane; grilled pork to roll in rice paper with rice noodles, cilantro, mint, lettuce, and sprouts-each dish delightful, fresh, excellent. 3555 W. Walnut St., Garland, 972-272-2188, $-$$.

Cafe Panda. If you can’t find what you’re hungry for on the menu at Cafe Panda, you’ll have to go to China. Usually, you have to know 24 hours ahead that you Lire in the mood for this Mandarin delicacy, but at Cafe Panda, Peking duck can be an impulse buy. The downside: Fire Cracker Shrimp, billed as a hot dish-“buckle your seat belt, this shrimp will bring one bumpy night,” warns the meni>-is anything but spicy. The Kung Pao Chicken could use some more fire as well. 7979 lnwood Rd, 214-902-9500. $$.

Jenny Ho’s Szechwan Pavilion. After 20 years of trying, Jenny Ho’s is serving some of the best Chinese in town. We never eat here (or take out) without a plate of twice-cooked pork-paper thin squares of pork stir fried in black bean sauce with thick cuts of carrots and crisp vegetables. If you are lucky enough to live nearby, they’ll deliver. 8409 Preston Rd., 214-368-4303.

Taiwan. Taiwan has had the same chef, owner, and location for 18 years, so it must be doing something right. The Princess Beef-delicate strips of beef with crunchy celery cubes and peanuts in a hot, spicy brown sauce-tastes as good as it looks. And the hot and sour soup is delicious, with fresh shrimp and pork, and mercifully lacking in that disconcerting, jiggly cornstarch texture that so often makes us push our bowl away. 4980 Belt Line Rd., Addison. 972-387-2333. $-$$.

Uncle Tai’s Hunan Yuan. Not much has changed here over the past 15 years. Bow-tie clad waiters still formally dish out classic hot Hunan specialties tableside. Past favorites still shine, including the Crispy Beef with broccoli sizzling in spicy orange sauce and Uncle Tai’s Chicken flamed with jalapenos lightly coated with black bean sauce served on a bed of slightly willed watercress, m the Galleria, 13350 Dallas Pkwy. at LBJ, 972-934-9998. $$.



DELI

Dell News. This plainly authentic deli has continued to demonstrate that you don’t have to be from New York to know the Real Thing when you taste it. Hot cabbage borscht, potato pancakes, and rye-wrapped pastrami are all wonderful. 4805 Frankford. 972-733-3354. $-$$.

Gilbert’s. All you Yankees pining for the comforts of the Carnegie Deli, stop whining. The Gilbert family has been dishing out potato knishes. stuffed derma, and kasha varnishkas as good as any in the Big Apple for more than a decade. They also have a decent plate of spaghetti and meatballs for the shiksa in your group. 11661 Preston Rd? 214-373-3333. $.



EASTERN EUROPEAN

Athenée Cafe, Dallas’ only Rumanian restaurant-are you surprised? Stuffed mountain cabbage is a fabulous signature dish-meatball-size beef rolls oven-roasted in delicate cabbage leaves with a red wine sauce, just like Grandma in Transylvania used to make. Other highlights: Rumanian sausage and veal chop. The wine list is adequate. 5365 Spring Valley Rd.. Ste. 150, 972-239-8060. $$.



ECLECTIC

Bistro A. Peripatetic chef Avner Samuel’s latest venture is his best yet, and better yet. Bistro A looks like it’s going to be around awhile. Dishes with Middle Eastern influences are especially good, but the chef does equally well with simple steak fries, and casserole-roasted chicken could be the best bird in town. Beware of spotty service. 6815 Snider Plaza, 214-373-9911.$$-$$$.

Cork. The list of wines by the glass, ports, sherries, and champagnes is staggering considering the small space. The food is simple but perfectly matched to the concept. Pick your wines, then customize a cheese plaie to match. Lovely patés and olive mixes also make more substantial meals, and you can linger long, foregoing dinner. 2709 McKinney Ave., 214-303-0302. $.

D REVISITS Firehouse. warning: Do not eat the garnish at Firehouse. A yellow habanero pepper may be pleasing to I the eye, but it will scorch your taste buds beyond repair. Of course, we learned the hard way. Our friend Jean, who consistently orders extra jalapenos on her nachos or squirts half a cup of chili paste on her Hunan beef, was ready to challenge the kitchen. After she placed her order, she commanded the waiter to “kick it up a notch.” We watched her go down in flames after I she casually picked up the habanero and popped it in her mouth. Waiters came scurrying with milk to cut the heat, but she stubbornly sat there with her tongue submerged in a glass of chardonnay. Meanwhile, we were having little trouble with new chef Bill Lewis’ version of International Hot and Spicy Cuisine. He has refined the menu, including some less complicated specialties like a boneless chicken thigh stuffed with mushrooms and peppers. A tamarind-soy marinated center cut pork chop was delivered with a juicy center and a heat ! soothing mango salsa. Surprisingly, our favorite dish of the evening wasn’t spicy at all-the warm chocolate devil’s food cake surrounded by Milwaukee Joe’s vanilla ice cream with a huge chunk of homemade pistachio brittle cooled our jets. 1928 Greenville, 214-826-2468.$$.

Genghis Grill. You get a stainless steel howl from the stack and choose your ingredients from a cafeteria line on ice: bins of meat and vegetables, along with your choice of oils and sea-sonings. Then you give your bowl to the grill-master, who losses it on a giant round griddle, cooks it quick, then serves it back to you in the bowl. And Genghis Grill provides basic recipes for people who don’t know the difference beiween tamarind and teriyaki. 191? Greenville Ave., 214-841-9990. $-$$.

D BEST The Grape. The secret is that Dallas’ oldest and best wine bar is really one of its oldest and best restaurants- dim and atmospheric, with a blackboard menu that remains interesting and enticing (no matter how often the chef changes) and the tiniest, most romantic bar in town. 2808 Greenville Ave., 214-828-1981.$$.

D BEST The Green Room. This ’90s bistro continues to dish out some or the most inventive cuisine to be found between New York and L.A. The menu is eclectically uptown, and the decor is strictly downtown rock “n” roll. The contrast between them is cool. At $36, the fixed-price, four-course, “Feed Me” menu is the best deal in town. 2715 Elm St., 214-748-7666.$$-$$$.

Soho. The imaginative one-world-on-a-plate concept isn’t as complicated as it sounds. The Mahi Mahi is the dish that would lure us back to pseudo-Soho: its light ginger and lemon-grass crust, grilled to tender, bedded on nutty red wehani rice and encircled with a soy-lemon sauce. An armagnac poached pear with toasted walnut and rice mascarpone cheese is simple elegance done well. 5290 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 972-490-8686. $$.

D BEST Tarantino’s. The overall ambience-a dark, New York cafe-shaped space dominated by a long bar-is best at night, when the slight scruffiness is hidden by dim light and the place looks avant instead of under-financed. The food goes back to the basics of Italian and Spanish cuisine, served tapas-style. The take on traditional osso buco. based on a rich, gamy lamb shank instead of veal, is food you lust after. 3611 Parry Ave.. 214-821-2224. Dinner only. $$.

Tin Star. Tex-Mex meets the world under the “Salsa, Smoke, and Sizzle” style. Stick to thin-crusted pizza topped with a smoky-sweet barbecue sauce and dotted with chunks of grilled chicken and onions. Soft tacos filled with tempura shrimp, fruit pico de gallo, bacon, and cilantro is a bizarre combination that somehow works. But the restaurant may lose you with the cheeseburger taco-a big cheese-topped patty wrapped in a flour tortilla. We’re Texans; we agree that that almost everything tastes better wrapped in a tortilla. Almost. 2626 Howell St. (across from the Quadrangle). 214-999-0059. $.



FRENCH/CONTINENTAL

Addison Cafe. It’s called “Le French Bistro,” but in reality, Addison Cafe is a restaurant serving classically prepared French and New American dishes, which has kept them in business for 15 years. Tournedos of beef are cooked medium-rare and served in a textbook bordelaise sauce. And dark chocolate mousse is worth every hip-hugging calorie. 5290 Bell Line Rd., Ste. 108 at Montfort Dr.. Addison, 972-991-8824. $$-$$$.

D REVISITS Barclays. December 22,1999, will be a dark day for Dallas diners. Nick Barclay has decided to close his successful restaurant and move back to England with his wife Kelli and daughter Hannah to open a small hotel in the West Country where he grew up. But where shall we find our bubble and squeak after his departure? What restaurateur will ever replace Nick’s warmth and charm as a host and talent in the kitchen. Before we had gotten the news, we were sitting on the patio discussing the civility of his food. On one plate was a filet of roasted salmon cooked the old fashioned way-firm medium pink-and beautifully studded with peppercorns and chives. The sauce was a delicate red wine glaze, but the fish would have been perfect on its own. His British spin on a grilled chicken placed the breast on a cloud of whipped potatoes surrounded by broad beans and English peas sauced with a hint of white wine and tarragon. Nick stopped by the table and joined us for champagne and told us the details of his family’s new dream.

We were happy for him, but sad for Dallas. We raised our glasses to toast his 17 years of culinary magic, commemorating the moment with Nick’s trademark salute: Cheers!2917 Fairmount St., 214-855-0700. $$-$$$.



Blstral. If anyone could make a destination dining spot on crumbled McKinney Avenue is should be super-chef David Holben. But early returns from his neighborhood bistro and bakery have all been negative. Our last visit we were served a pan roasted garlic chicken soaking in garlic vinaigrette by a server that didn’t know a Sancerre from a Chardonnay. 2900 McKinney Ave., 214-320-1202.$$.

The Bistro. The list of small plates at this tapas bistro has been pared down to 14 from 30 selections, but they’re all exciting, and the wine list is one of the most extensive and inexpensive in town. That means the Bistro caters to you-you can drop in for a few small plates and a bottle of wine or settle in for a full-course meal at a reasonable price. 5405 W. Lovers Ln. at Inwood Rd., 214-352-1997.$-$$.

Bizú. This is the beginning of the Gallic flood we’ve been predicting. It’s a bistro-you can order omelettes for lunch (we like the tomato-basil one}, steak tartare. ma pommes frites. The patés, including a smooth-as-cream chicken liver mousse and a coarse country meat loaf, are fragrant and spicy, a great lunch with the Bizú salad: a toss of pear slivers, mature spinach leaves, feta, and raspberry vinaigrette. 2504 McKinney Ave., 214-303-1002. $$.

Clair De Lune. Tucked behind some trees in the corner of a small strip of shops in Preston Royal, this cozy French country restaurant delights with delicious food and impeccable service. A classic house-made pork paté is served with diced onion, French cornichons, and mustard. Poitrine de canard, a splendidly moist duck breast, is served with a delicate port wine sauce. 5934 Royal Ln. at Preston Road. 214-987-2028. $$-$$$.

French Room. This is the prettiest dining room in Dallas. The rococo-style, cherub-flown ceiling, Versailles-length drapes, and candlelight make it the kind of place that doesn’t mesh with the modem world, it’s only natural to expect perfect food that matches the fairy-tale room. Sweetbread schnitzel is perfect, placed on a bed of asparagus ragout. Lamb ribeye is precisely matched with rosemary goat cheese polenta and tomato confit with basil. combining every Mediterranean high note in a single dish. Hotel Adolphus, 1321 Commerce St., 214-742-8200.$$$.

D BEST L’Ancestral. Let L’ Ancestral remind you of traditional delights: The civilized dining room is softly lit. tables are draped in starchy white, and the menu is stubbornly, traditionally French. Begin your meal with a bowl of onion soup, about as recherché as you can get, but some ideas need no improvement. The onion tart is just as subtly good. Lamb is cooked perfectly medium rare, and steak au poivre comes with the the best, yes. French fries in town. 4514 Travis St., 214-528-1081.5$-$$$.

Old Warsaw. Once inside you are transported back to a time when ’’Feelings” was an appropriate love song and Crepes Suzette flamed tableside followed dinner. This granddaddy of Dallas dining hasn’t mad many changes over the last 50 years of serving continental classics like steak tartare, Sole de Douvres and Chateaubriand. A Grand Marnier souffle and a fresh red rose with the bill-that’s something more than feelings. 2610 Maple Ave., 214-528-0032. $$$.

The Pyramid Room. The table d’hote menu is a good deal-$68 for four courses with wine, $44 without. Cream of carrot soup with celery root and gorgonzola croutons is good, hot. and thick, with a spicy nose. As for the main courses, a fan of rare duck slices with a wonderful apple-pineapple wild rice goes perfectly with an Indigo Hills pinot noir, the food and the wine forming a perfect circle on the palate. Faimiont Hotel, 1717 N. Akard St., 214-720-5249. $$$.



GOURMET TO GO

City Cafe To Go. Does anybody cook from scratch anymore? According to the servers at City Cafe To Go, most people don’t even know how to use a regular oven to reheat the precooked food they buy there. They all want microwave instructions. But for those of you who can handle it. most of the dishes (for instance, a thickly sliced rare leg of lamb with charred, sun-dried tomatoes) are tasty and reheat beautifully. 5757 Lovers Ln., 214-351 -3366. $-$$.

Eatzi’s. Eatzi’s definitely lives up to its circus hype. Hear the strains of opera and waltz through the crowds collecting the already cooked makings of a gourmet dinner-down to the imported beer, fresh bread, and flowers. Or choose salads or sandwiches made to order. Checkout lines are infamously long. 3403 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-526-1515. $.

Marty’s Cafe TuGogh. Marty’s latest version of its wine bar has changed everything but the name. And the food-there was never a problem with that. At night, when the blond, light-filled Cafe TuGogh features full table service, it’s on its way to becoming one of the best little bistros in town. 3316 Oak Lawn Ave.. 214-526-4070. $-$$.



GREEK

Kostas Cafe. The food is simply Greek and simply good. Appetizer do’s: saganaki and dolmas (musts, really). Entrée don’t: souvlaki (tough and chewy). 4914 Greenville Ave.. 214-987-3225. $$.

D BEST Ziziki’s. You can hardly get a prime-time table at this contemporary Greek cafe, and they don’t take reservations, except for large parties. Bui the herbed lamb souvlaki. folded in thick warm pita and sauced with tart yogurt, is worth a wail. Ziziki’s menu has featured the same idiosyncratic version of Mediterranean food since it opened-it’s a good thing when some things don’t change. 4514Travis St., Ste. 122,214-521-2233.$$.



HOME COOKING



Celebration. Bring your appetite to this longtime mecca for Dallas home-cooking purists. Entrées run the gamut from broiled fresh fish to pot roast to fried chicken, all accompanied by an endless supply of vegetables. Don’t worry if your entrée seems small-you can reorder as often as you wish. 4503 W. Lovers Ln., 214-351-5681.$-$$.



Mecca. The place is sunny, cheerfully decorated with flowers in Spam and Manwich cans. The pro waitresses keep the coffee cups filled and call the customers “hon.” Ridiculously large plates of banana pancakes, thick-cut bacon, eggs over easy, great big biscuits, and reassuring hash browns, served at an appropriate morning pace, add up to an eye-blinkingly low tab. Good morning. 10422 Harry Hines, 214-352-0051. $.



Natalie’s. It’s the ultimate neighborhood spot: The portions are large, and the prices are small. The meatloaf is a popular choice: For $7.95, you get an 8-by-3-inch slab of finely ground meat with a light tomato sauce on lop. mixed crisp steamed vegetables, and a hunk of mashed potatoes. But the secret to Natalie’s success is the cinnamon rolls. We always order extra to take home for (he next morning. 5944 Royal Ln., 214-739-0362.$.



INDIAN



India Palace. Delicate spices imbue truly fine Indian cuisine. And, similar to a fine perfume, too much is an assault on the senses, too little and there’s no magic. India Palace has kept the proper balance for nearly a decade and shows no signs of slowing down. 12817 Preston Rd., Ste. 105,972-392-0190.$-$$.

ITALIAN

Alfonso’s. If you don’t live in east Dallas, it’s time to load the kids in the car and take a round trip for dinner. Basic Italian favorites are cooked the old-fashioned way-heavy on the garlic and butter. Chicken Francese and the hot homemade garlic (and we mean garlic) rolls are alone worth the trip. Lake Highland Village, 718 N. Buckner Blvd. at Northcliff Dr., 214-327-7777.$.



Arcodoro. The bar’s always loud and crowded, and if you want to pick up pizza instead of people, you’ll be an anomaly here. It’s too bad because the food is quite good. The salads are nicely dressed, the pizzas are thin with big bubbling brown crusts, and the special, a pork chop with sage, is good, too. The only problem is, the prices seem steep for bar food. And that’s what Arcodoro feels like. 2520 Cedar Springs, 214-871-1924. $$.



Avanti Avanti has maintained the feel of a small, intimate neighborhood cafe in spite of every obstacle. The fried caiamari with tomato and basil sauce is greaseless, and the crunchy batter is light and tasty. We’re slightly disappointed with the grilled veal medallions, but the Italian sausage seasoned with lots of fennel and sautéed with onions and bell peppers on top of angel hair pasta covered in a light marinara is gutsier. 2720 McKinney Ave., 214-871-4955,$$.

Cafe Cipriani. This is one of the best Italian restaurants in town. Owner Salvino Zannetti doesn’t compromise on his ingredients; he orders his cheese from a deli in New York-as close to Italy as you can get in Dallas. And the lasagna is the real standout-layers of homemade noodles, with just enough ground veal to give the dish substance without making it too heavy. 220 Las Colinas Blvd., Irving. 972-869-0713. $$.

III Sorrento. Who wouldn’t love the over-the-top, chichi atmosphere at II Sorrento-the canopy of plastic grapevines, the fortune-teller in her niche? It’s completely winning. But the food doesn’t always match the extravagant spirit of the decor. The salad plates still come chilled, but the lettuce is tossed in a pint of Golden Goddess dressing. Housemade gnocchi is plump and perfectly cooked, but the marinara sauce is the victim of a salt murderer in the kitchen. 8616 Turtle Creek Blvd., 214-352-8759. $$.

Ml Piaci. Housemade is a term Mi Piaci doesn’t take lightly-the kitchen makes its own pastas and cures its own meats. Every other ingredient is either imported or hand-picked. A bow] of the Tuscan classic ribollita could be enough for a meal. But don’t neglect the spicy penne all’ arrabbiata, the three thin scallops of veal perched on a pile of portobello mushrooms, or the asparagus and cheese tortellini with a fragile Marsala sauce. 14854 Montfort, 972-943-8424. $$-$$$.

D BEST Modo Mio. Here is a “labor of love restaurant that has overcome the obstacle of doing business in an ugly strip mall by serving some of the best Italian food in town. Chef/owner Rino Brigliadori turns out deliriously plump gnocchi lightly coated in tomato sauce, and his simple seafood specials are always perfectly prepared. 18352 Dallas Pkwy., Ste. 112,972-671-6636.$$.

Patrizio’s. Move over, Campisi’s. Patrizio’s signature crab claws just took first place in the crab claws competition. Soft and delicate, they slip off the exoskeleton and melt in your mouth like, well, butter. Oh, yes-you should eat dinner, too: there’s the chicken and mushroom lasagna (good, but rich) and the baked ziti (we had leftovers for breakfast). The prices aren’t what you’d expect with Escada and Calvin Klein just a kiss away. Highland Park Village, Mockingbird at Preston, 214-522-7878. $$.

Toscana. Toscana has survived the exodus of executive chef David Holben-the menu is the same, the room is still beautiful, and the food is still elegantly prepared Tuscan comfort food. Pizza made on crispy lavosh sprinkled with layers of gently smoked chicken, red onion and fontina cheese is a perfect appetizer for two or a light pre-theater dinner. Sweet potato ravioli cooked al dente come lightly coated with a rich rosemary sauce. 4900 McKinney Ave., 214-521-2244.$$.



JAPANESE

Chaya Sushi. The tuna roll is lean, deep red, and fresh. From the robata bar, try the char-grilled sirloin-thinly sliced, bite-sized morsels of rare tenderloin dipped in ponzu sauce. Gulf shrimp, sautéed in a light ginger sauce, is fragrant and firm. And our all-time favorite dish-simple to make, but hard to make well-is the miso soup. We believe this hot, nourishing version has healing properties, like a global chicken soup. 101 Preston Royal Shopping Center, 214-361-0220. $$.

D BEST Nakamoto. Service tends to D best range from sublime to abrupt at this stylish, roomy Piano institution, but cuisine (tempura, sushi, and Sashimi) remains uniformly excellent. 3309 N. Central Expwy. at Parker Rd., Piano, 972-881-0328. $$.

Royal Tokyo. It’s a hibachi steak room, it’s a sushi bar (Dallas’ first), and it’s a show palace. You can leave your shoes at the door and eat in one of their Tamati Rooms or sit around grill tables where Japanese chefs perform slice and dice like Samurai warriors. It’s a great way to get kids to eat their vegetables. 7525 Greenville Ave., 214-368-3304. $$.

Tel Tei. We still haven’t tasted the kobe beef (which comes from cattle fed with beer and massaged with sake), but Tei Tei is a destination restaurant anyway. The “kinki fish” is a whole fish (snapper), slashed to the bone so the flesh lifts out easily with chopsticks. To eat the soft-shell crab, abandon the Eastern eating utensils and resort to the god-given: fingers. 2906 N. Henderson Ave., 214-828-2400. $$-$$$.

D BEST Teppo. Our only yakitori bar is also one of the city s most exciting sushi bars and a favorite weekend date destination. High-energy atmosphere, highly chic modem decor, and high-quality food make this one of Dallas’ best Japanese restaurants, even though the menu is mostly skewers and sushi. Be sure to try the specials. 2014 Greenville Ave., 214-826-8989. $$-$$$.

LATIN AMERICAN

Caribbean Grill. Jumbo shrimp marinated in coconut milk, lightly fried and rolled in coconut shreds, is one of the best appetizers we’ve had all year. Jerk chicken is moist inside, with a thin crusty coating of spices, and the dipping sauce is a killer honey-mustard concoction spiced with hot relish (chow) from Trinidad. Slay busy with their large selection of bottled hot sauces, and soothe your burning tongues with homemade key lime pie. 3068 Forest Ln., 972-241-9113. $-$$.

Fogo de Chao. This is not a place tor the faint of heart. Or the not-very-hungry. Once you’ve signaled “go” by turning your ordering chip from red to green, you are immediately barraged by gaucho-clad waiters waving huge skewers of assorted meats. The “Lombo”-pork loin crusted with parmesan-can be dry, but the Frallinha (bottom sirloin) is tender, and the Picanha (rump steak with lots of garlic) will make you send the other waiters away. The centerpiece of the restaurant is the beautiful salad bar-vegetarians who can get past the carnivorous atmosphere will find nirvana in the form of big bowls of steamed asparagus, mozzarella cheese balls, fejoada, rice, marinated red peppers, hearts of palm, and sun-dried tomatoes. 4300 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 972-503-7300. $$.

Gloria’s. Everyone’s favorite Oak Cliff restaurant has opened yet another branch, this time on already overloaded Greenville. There’s die inevitable streetside al fresco scene with mar-garitas and nachos on every table, but the glory of Gloria’s was, is now. and ever shall be its Salvadoran menu, available at every location. Don’t miss the pupusas (cheese-stuffed com tortillas) or the banana leaf tamales. 3715 Greenville Ave., 214-874-0088; multiple locations. $-$$.



Texas be Brazil. No need for menus here-it’s one price fits all. Skewer-swagging waiters slice varied cuts of slow-roasted (and extremely flavorful) filet, picanha, rack of lamb, top sirloin, and pork loin from their swords right onto your plate. The salad bar features 30 hefty items besides salad, including tabbouleh and marinated mushrooms, and the required feijoa-da (the national dish of Brazil). 15101 Addison Rd., 972-385-1000. $$$.



MEDITERRANEAN



Adelmo’s. Some go for the food, some go for the intimacy, but almost everybody finds a reason to go back to this well-hidden gem. Service is unhurried and patient, and the wine list is varied and reasonable. Entrées and appetizers alike feature creatively bold sauces that will hold your attention long after the main ingredients of the dishes have been devoured. 4537 Cole Ave., 214-559-0325. $$.



D BEST The Riviera. We knew the moment an airy avocado cream horsd’oeuvre passed our lips that we were doomed, once again, to a near-flawless dining experience. Each dish seems to outdo another. Food credits here mostly belong to Chef de Cuisine Frank Harris, one assumes, with input from David Holben, now executive chef at sibling restaurants Mediterraneo and Toscana. 7709 Inwood Rd.. 214-351-0094.$$$.



MEXICAN

Acnamia’s. The basics-cheese enchiladas, cheese tacos, guacamole, and beef tacos-are all above average, the surprise being the usually boring beef taco full of chili powder-spiced beef. Shrimp comes wafting the scent of lime, covered with nuggets of sautéed garlic, on a bed of sautéed celery, zucchini, carrots, mushrooms, and jalapenos. For two bucks, you can get an order of sopapillas–a platter of three gold puffs sent from heaven with a little honey. 600 E. Sandy Lake Rd., Coppell. 972-304-0321. $. 5 Margaritas.

D REVISITS Avila’s. It’s nor chalupa, and it’s not really a nacho; in fact, it’s not even on the menu. But if you’re real nice to Ricky Avila-and that’s easy because he’s so nice-he’ll fix you a plate of his “special nachos.” Com tostadas are replaced with lightly fried flour tortilla chips lightly covered in flavorful refried beans. Instead of pounds of greasy melted cheddar, Ricky piles a handful of fresh chopped lettuce, tomato, fresh jalapeno. and grated cheddar on top. The result is all the flavors of Mexican food without feeling like you just ingested a sack of cement. That leaves plenty of room for the chili relleno gently roasted and stuffed with cheese or meat and covered in a light ranchera sauce. At Avila’s, it’s actually possible to taste die poblano pepper, and you don’t have to deal with a messy batter that disintegrates into scrambled eggs after it hits liquid. 4714 Maple Ave., 214-520-2700.$.

Gasa Navarro. This little cafe in a former 7-Eleven specializes in the same unpretentious, cheesy fare we used to love before Tex-Mex became chic. The beer is bring-your-own, and on Wednesdays the enchilada plate is $3.75 all day long. Sopapillas, once die darling dessert at every Tex-Mex joint, are still handmade, light, and greaseless, such a surprisingly elegant finish to the meal that we wished we’d brought our demitasse, too. 11742-A Marsh Lane at Forest, 972-357-0141.$.

El Norte. The decor varies from the authentic look of specials painted directly on the walls to cheesy plastic flamingos in the flower boxes, but some solidly good food comes out of the kitchen. This is a great family spot with a reasonable, all-you-can-eat special. 2205 W. Parker Rd., Piano, 972-596-6783. $. Margaritas.

Javier’s Gourmet Mexlcano. Javier’s hook is Mexico City Mexican food, and the atmosphere isn’t Tex-Mex kitschy but sophisticated. Salsa is nicely warmed, and margaritas are the real thing. Filete Cantinflas may look like a fried puck, but inside the stiff crust is a cheese-stuffed filet mignon with a brick-colored chile sauce-it’s too rich to eat and too good not to try. 4912Cole Ave., 214-521-211.$$.

La Cale Doce. Far from slicker Belt Line and Greenville Avenue eateries, mis old house is home to some seriously good Mexican-style seafood. Sit on the porch and dine on a spicy gazpacho-like octopus cocktail served in huge goblets or shrimp, stuffed with crabmeat, covered with chili con queso and tasting much better than it sounds. 415 W. 12th St., 214-941-4304. $-$$.

Mario’s Chiquita. A Dallas classic, this restaurant eschews velvet paintings and kitsch in favor of a pretty, casual decor and offers upscale Mexico City-style fare, as well as some of the best Tex-Mex combinations in town. 221 W. Parker Rd.,Ste. 400, Piano, 972-423-2977.$-$$.

Martin’s Cocina. The kitchen here does magic things with seafood (shrimp especially) and offers a listing of entrees that weigh in at less than 1,000 calories each, including the four chiles rellenos. But only skimp if you want to-the most basic combination plate starts with a lettuce-lopped chalupa, its toasty tortilla thickly spread with guacamole. 7726 Ferguson Rd., 214-319-8834.$-$$.

D BEST Matt’s Rancho Martinez. The place is filled with the faithful at every meal because the flautas are the best in Dallas, the chile relleno is food for the gods. and even a combination plate satisfies, if you don’t mind processed cheese. 6332 La Vista Dr.,2l4-823-5517.$-$$.

D BEST Monica tea Y Alla. This cool place has been around long enough to be a tradition in these days of restaurants that open and close-especially in Deep Ellum. The ambitious menu offers intriguing Southwestern-inspired options as well as more standard Tex-Mex, in a hip and hopping ambience. Best lunch deals in town. 2914 Main St., 214-748-7140.$-$$.

Nuevo Leon. Nuevo Leon has the uncanny knack of blending perfectly with a neighborhood while serving the same menu at every location. Somehow, the carnitas al pastor are hearty, country fare in Farmers Branch (the original location), fiesta party fare on Greenville Avenue, and mod-Mex in the latest location on Oak Lawn. Service is slick, and the food is excellent-fat enchiladas, avocado like cold cream, thick tortillas. So far, this is a winning formula. 3211 Oak Lawn, 214-522-3331 ; multiple locations. $-$$.

Pape & Mito’s. The vivid wails and bright lights mean this cafe looks noisy even though it’s not usually crowded. It should be-chips worth mentioning (thick, warm, slightly overcooked), cilantro-laced salsa, and standards like nachos and enchiladas are excellent. Tamales are utterly remarkable, and chicken and beef taquitos are still some of the best in town. 2935 Elm St., 214-741-1901. $.Margaritas.

Sol’s. The goal here seems to be to offer pretty good Mexican food in a pretty comfortable place to folks who live pretty close. Sol’s has found a niche where old-fashioned combination plates-oozing enchiladas, rich chili gravy, deep fried flautas. and lush guacamole-are all that’s required. Nachos come with a pile of sliced jalapenos, margaritas have plenty of tequila, and the set is tuned to Mexican TV. Really, what more do you want on a Sunday evening? 6434 Mockingbird Ln.. 214 821-7911. $-$$.

Taco Diner. The name sounds slightly retro. But the tacos at the Diner are real Mexican soft tacos, not drive-through, crunchy. greasy Tex-Mex mutations. The com tortillas are the star here; no matter what you wrap them around, the result is good-chicken with cojita cheese. grilled pork, and meaty mushrooms are all complemented by the fragrant masa tortillas. Service is hit-or-miss.40l! Villanova, 214-696-4944.$. Margaritas.



MIDDLE EASTERN

AI Baba. Order hummus and you get a bowl swirled with the garlicky purée, pooled with yellow olive oil, dusted with parsley and adorned with slick olives. That and a stack of hot pita could do you, but the grilled chicken is irresistible, and the tabbouleh, mostly chopped parsley with bits of bulghur and tomato, is a perfect counterpoint to (he unctuous chickpea mash. 1905 Greenville Ave.. 214-823-8235.$-$$.

Basha. Basha was one of the first in the wave ! of Middle Eastern restaurants that have opened : in Dallas in the last few years. And it remains ; one of the best of a good lot. The menu is less predictable than many of Dallas’ Lebanese restaurants, offering dishes outside the usual selection of hummus, baba ghanoush. rice, and grilled everything. Breast of chicken breaded in crushed pistachios is an excellent idea -so is fragrant lamb shank, cooked till it is stew on the bone. OK, hummus is good, too. 2217 Greenville Ave.,214-824-7794.$$.

Cafe Izmir. This remains one of the best little ; restaurants in Dallas. The space is small, the : service is friendly, and the choices are sim-: pie-all you have to say is “meat” or “veg,” : and the food starts coming. The me7,es plat-ter-hummus, baba ghanoush, and Russian chicken salad, all designed to spread on warm : pita bread -is a regular. Wash it down with a I bottle of the Boutari and you’ll be happy. 3711 Greenville Ave.,214-826-7788. $$.



MOROCCAN

D BEST Marrakesh. Just what is Moroccan cuisine, and what is it doing in Dallas? It is lamb and couscous and ; fresh vegetables spiced with mysterious combinations of nutmeg, paprika, and cumin – wonderful. The Moroccan Feast-a sample of almost everything on the menu -is a bargain at $26.95 per person. Vibrant Middle-Eastern music accompanies a veiled belly dancer in a purple bra who gyrates and finger-eymbales her way around the room. 5207 W. Lovers Ln., 214-357-4104.$$.



NEW AMERICAN

Airfares. The Hyatt Regency’s sky-high, revolv-ing restaurant appears to be finding its wings at last. Huge sea scallops were sparked with chile-peanut dressing; grilled beefsteak tomatoes and shiitake mushroom caps wore dollops of melted queso fresco in a roasted shallot vinaigrette. Reunion Tower, 300 Reunion Blvd., 214-651-1234. $$-$$$.

Beau Hash. The beautiful dining room is aging gracefully, and the light-sparkled, romantic Conservatory at night remains one of the delights of Dallas dining. The Cobb salad and smoked chicken corn chowder still win Best of Kind, and desserts are a dream-try the rich pillow of mocha mousse sandwiched between two dark chocolate cake slices. Hotel Crescent Court. 2215 Cedar Springs Rd., 214-871-3240. $$-$$$.

Chaparral Club. The ancho-rubbed chicken (with bones!) can be a little salty, but the creamy goat-cheese stuffing guarantees moist meat. The bone-in filet, along with truffled mashed potatoes and cubed root vegetables sautéed together, make a plate that satisfies all senses. Don’t miss The Perfect Dessert: a satiny sphere of white chocolate split and filled with fresh blueberries and raspberries sliding around in a pool of Crème Anglaise. Adam’s Mark Hotel, 400 N. Olive St.. 214-922-8000. $$-$$$.



City Cafe .This California-inspired, mostly family-run cafe opened over a dozen years ago but remains in the top tier of Dallas restaurants. The charming but dim dining room is furnished with cottage antiques, and the food is classic, with a wake-up flash of invention. Fresh tomato basil soup is famous. The service is confident and careful, and the American wine list is one of the best. 5757 W. Lovers Ln.. 214-351-2233.$$.



D BEST Laurels. Rising star executive chef and general manager Danielle Custer brings her cutting-edge cuisine to Westin Park Central’s 20th floor. Incomprehensible dishes like pear soup with plum wine crème fraiche don’t make sense until you put them in your mouth. You have to trust Custer: She thinks with her palate, and the results are brilliant. Westin Park Central, 12720 Merit Dr., 972-385-3000. $$-$$$.



The Mansion on Turtle Creek. This isn’t dinner, it’s a dining experience. A dramatic, country club-like, members-only dining experience. The Grande Dame of Dallas dining continues to live up to its legend-the atmosphere is inimitably posh, and the food is predictably innovative. The price? If you have to ask, you can’t afford it. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd.. 214-526-2121.$$$.



The Mercury. Though we still think the place is too chic for a neighborhood restaurant, the food has improved since the opening months. The swordfish, perfectly marked from the grill. is balanced by a warm artichoke salad and a corn relish. The grilled shrimp with avocado and a “gazpacho” sauce is equally lovely to look at. though you won’t look at it for long. 1418 Preston Forest Sq., 972-960-7774. $$.



Nana Grill .The new menu broadens Nana’s focus from Southwestern to Regional American. Service is supremely suave and caring, the accoutrements define luxe, and the ambience is as comfortably refined as always in this upscale establishment. Wyndham Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Frwy., 214-761-7479. $$-$$$.



Rooster: The room is as easily gracious as a family dining room. And the staff offers naturally Southern-style hospitality. The traditional Senate bean soup is authentic-substantial and scented with smoky ham-and the breadbasket is filled with corn muffins and bacon biscuits. The catfish, thick and white as cake, is crusted with molasses and pecans, then sauced with brown butter. 3521 Oak Grove Ave., 214-521-1234.$$.

Sevy’s. The thoroughly American Prairie-style interior perfectly complements chef-owner Jim Severson”s hearty American cuisine. The plates here present classic ideas with imaginative updates. The menu is varied, but beef is a reliable choice-the tenderloin is slightly hickory smoked. The marinated mushroom appetizer is the best portobello in town. 8201 Preston Rd., 214-265-7389.$$.



SEAFOOD

D BEST AquaKnox. Stephan Pyles’ swanky seafood spot has commanded national attention, and the swell decor and meticulous food mostly merit it. Luscious red : snapper in red curry masa is an example of the global approach to seafood. The rich and the wannabes are eating from a simpler menu thai includes platters of fresh shrimp, oysters, clams, and small-plate versions of the dinner entrees, an excellent option for those who warn a taste of the high life without the high tab. 3214 Knox St., 214-219-2782. $$-$$$.



Cafe Pacific. Cafe Pacific continues to delight as one of Dallas’ most reliable luncheon and dinner restaurants, as well as the place to witness the social structure of Dallas’ power people in action. Menu favorites like calamari. clam chowder, Caesar salad, salmon, and red snapper are superbly prepared and presented by an experienced staff. 24 Highland Park Village, 214-526-1170. $$-$$$.



Daddy Jack’s. With pricey lobsters the rage all over town, Jack Chaplin brings the delicacy back to realistic prices. Mark your calendars: Weekdays, a one-pounder is only $10.95: weekends, they’re still a bargain (they come with baked potato and com). Sunday and Mondays it’s all you can eat for $34.95. 5940 Royal Ln., 214-378-6767 J916 Greenville Ave., 214-826-4910. $$.



Fishmonger’s. Over the years, we’ve had good and bad experiences at Fishmonger’s, but never great ones. The Crawfish Etoufee’s only resemblance to Cajun cuisine is the fact that it looks like the muddy Mississippi. Tuna Fajitas, a weird diversion from the mostly Cajun-themed menu, are tasteless strips of grilled tuna rolled in tortillas and served with a tortilla soup made with shrimp. But seafood gumbo is surprisingly well-flavored and filled with loads of okra, tomato, and baby shrimp. 1915 N. Central Expwy., 972-423-3699. $-$$.



D BEST Lombard! Hare. The stylishly polished interior is a real mind-blower, and so is the food. Feast on five types of farm-fresh oysters, steamed mussels, and lobster. A polenta-crusted salmon served with red cabbage was a perfect meal. If we had to choose one place to entertain an out-of-town-er, Lombardi Mare would be our choice. 5100 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 972-503-1233. $$.



Newport’s. Enjoy an imaginative seafood menu that we classify loosely as New England seafood with Asian and Cajun influences. Grilled tilapia is imaginatively served with a side of sautéed apples, cilantro, and toasted pecans. And the tuna is a three-inch pan-seared hunk served in a bowl of rice and covered with sautéed portobellos and roasted peppers- almost wonderful, except for the lake of teriyaki sauce drowning the rice. 703 McKinney Ave.. 214-954-0220.$$-$$$.



Rockfish. Rockfish is cozy and uncontrived; even the cute stuff, like the tin-pail light fixtures, and the out-of-place ambience, like the rock fireplace on the patio overlooking the parking lot. feels comfortable. You can get an oversized platter filled with more than a pound of fresh crab, about 30 medium boiled shrimp, two ears of corn, several new potatoes, and a foot of sausage for $22.99, Our main problem with Rockfish is that it’s a neighborhood restaurant, but it’s not in our neighborhood. 7639 Campbell Rd. (at Coil), 972-267-8979, $-$$.

S&D Oyster Company. S & D can do anything with shrimp, and they have been doing it for longer than we care to remember (or admit we do). The fried shrimp is so delicately breaded you can still see the pink-skinned flesh through the crust. Then it’s butterflied, lightly fried, and served with a dollop of tartar sauce-heavy on the pickle. And no meal here would be complete without a slice of the famous key lime pie. 2701 McKinney Ave., 214-880-0111.$$.

Truluck’s Steak & Stone Crab. Stone crabs are a new delicacy in Dallas, and they’re sweet and rich. They’re also easy to eat; the kitchen cracks them for you so all you have to do is break in and fish for the meat. You can eat other stuff with your crab (mediocre salad, onion rings, cole slaw, creamed spinach) but all you’ll remember is the claws and cake-four layers of dark chocolate cake covered with a whipped milk-chocolate icing. 5001 Bell Line Rd.. Addison, 972-503-3079; 2401 McKinney Ave., 214-220-2401. $$-$$$.

Vincent’s. This place hasn’t conformed to any current low-fat or global-spice trends; the signature Red Snapper a la Vincent’s is still a deli-ciously rich filet, lightly breaded, sautéed in loads of lemon butter, and topped with a huge clump of fresh crab.There is a lighter side: A lovely broiled halibut was sauced with about half the snapper’s butter. The whole experience is completely unhip and therefore completely comforting. 3004 N. Northwest Hwy., 214-352-2692; 2432 Preston at Park, Piano, 972-612-6208.5$-$$$.



SOUTHWESTERN

Blue Mesa. Blue Mesa has wisely stuck with its original concept of Southwestern fare: The tableside guacamole is truly a marvel, with avocados as smooth as congealed cream. Adobe pie. the signature dish, is as good as ever, as is the warm salsa and yam and tortilla chips. Bui the menu at the new Lincoln Plaza location is mostly new. There’s a new churrascaria section and a number of new entrées. New Mexican-style blue corn chicken enchiladas with tomatillo sauce are richer than anything ever dreamed up in Santa Fe-they have a definite (and welcome) Texas richness and come with a com cake and gingered rice, a nice relief from the usual Spanish. 7700 W. Northwest Hwy., 214-378-8686: 5100 Belt Line Rd., 972-934-0165. $$.

No Place. Tender elk sirloin and boneless rabbit are sided with sautéed portobello mushrooms and onions. Better-than-beef chicken-fried venison comes with Matt’s famous smoked mashed poiatoes. The food is why Matt Martinez Jr. is a legend-in his own neighborhood, anyway. 6325 La Vista Dr., 214-328-9078. $$-$$$.

D BEST Star Canyon. Chef-owner Siephan Pyles has created a Dallas destination with his innovative New Texas Cuisine. An appetizer of fried green tomatoes stacked high with layers of Dallas-made mozzarella is a rare case of tall food tasting as good as it looks. And the bone-in cowboy ribeye on a bed of pinto beans, covered with a mound of shoestring onion rings dusted with red chile, should be listed in Fodor’s under Dallas’ top attractions. 3102 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-520-7827. $$-$$$.



SPANISH

Cafe Madrid. Dallas’ first tapas bar remains its : best, and everybody knows it. Even midweek, this little two-room restaurant has customers ! waiting at the bar for one of the mismatched tables in the storefront space. For those who ; insist, there is a prix-fixe, three-course dinner menu, but Cafe Madrid is a great place to linger over a succession of small dishes-an assortment of olives, oxtail stew, the potato omelette called a tortilla, braised lamb slices. 4501 Travis St., 214-528-1731.$$.



STEAKHOUSES

Bob’s Steak and Chop House. We usually forego ! filets, preferring a more flavorful cut, but the three-inch 9-ounce is beautifully marbled and cooked perfectly pink and tender. The New York strip steak is also outstanding, it’s impossible not to love the “smashed” potatoes-they’re wickedly mashed with about a stick of butter in each serving. And the slight sweet glaze on Bob’s signature whole carrots side dish is a nice contrast to the beef. The atmosphere here is as comfortable as your grandmother’s dining room, but the restaurant is crowded with the Ross Perot and Jerry Jones set. 4300 Lemmon Ave.. 214-528-9446. $$-$$$.

D BEST Chamberlain’s. Prime rib and a D BEST . , trimmed-to-lean rubeye are robustly rare and complemented with garlic | mashed potatoes. Figure in service that is, if i not clairvoyant, almost uncannily empathetic. and you’ll have some grasp of the comfortable ambience that keeps this cigar-friendly outpost I filled even on weekday evenings. 5330 Belt ; Line Rd., Addison. 972-934-2467. $$-$$$.

Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse. No complaints about the meats (and at these prices there shouldn’t be)-you could cut the porterhouse with a fork (if it weren’t two-and-a-half inches thick). But the onion rings are our favorite dish. Each three-inch ring has the perfect ratio of breading to onion, but somehow, the fry doesn’t separate from the onion-you gel batter with every bite. The lobster tail isn’t worth the price. But this is one place where you get what you pay for. 5251 Spring Valley Rd.. 972-490-9000. $$$.

Kirby’s Steakhouse. One recent dinner had six happy Yankee carnivores whistling Dixie, but more recently we were served a puck-like filet sitting alone on a parsley-less plate. And we didn’t understand what made the mashed potatoes “famous”-we tasted nothing more than potatoes whipped with lots of pepper. On the other hand, service was attentive, and the prime rib was pure retro-quality. 3525 Greenville Ave., 214-821 -2122;J408 Preston Rd., Piano, 972-867-2122.$$.

Nick & Sam’s. Nick & Sam’s is a steakhouse first, but it’s trying-and succeeding-to be more. For instance, there’s a raw bar at the far end of the building, and the lobby bar area is a wine cellar with more than 300 wines. We ate the traditional steakhouse meal-a wedge salad with creamy lumps of Maytag blue cheese. Surf ’n’Turf (snowy sweet lobster tail and soft filet), and a prime aged “cowboy steak” with sides. The most successful twist on the traditional steakhouse is the setting itself. This is not a faux men’s club- no brass, etched glass, or hunting paintings. 3008 Maple Ave., 214-871-7663, $$-$$$.

The Palm. The four-pound lobster (at $20 a pound!) is sweet and tender, but the 24-ounce New York strip tends to be overcooked. The Palm staffers are all veterans, and so are most of the customers, but don”l be intimidated by the chummy atmosphere. This is a club anyone with S80 to spare for a lobster can join. 701 Ross Ave., 214-698-0470. $$-$$$.

Sullivan’s Steakhouse. The knockout punch is a 24-ounce. bone-in ribeye coated with lots of fresh ground pepper, perfectly cooked to medium rare. Smoked pork chops are grilled and served with a side of sweet, smoked apples. The side dishes are only average; the horseradish mashed potatoes could have used a litlle more horseradish, and the doughnut-sized onion rings are heavily beer-breaded and greasy. Prices are less than you’d expect. 17795 Dallas Pkwy., 972-267-9393.$$.



THAI

Chow Thai. A strip shopping center doesn’t seem a likely spot for a Thai food epiphany, but you’ll have one here. Excellent Thai classics like vegetables in a fiery green curry and pad Thai taste clean and light. A dessert of fresh mango atop sticky rice is a spectacular ending. 5290 Belt Line Rd. at Montfort Drive, Addison, 972-960-2999. $$.

D BEST liberty. Annie Wong, the mother EST of Thai food in Dallas, still owns three all-Thai restaurants, but Liberty is where her imagination is freed. Romantically and softly lit, with beaded candleshades on each table and bamboo birdcages animated with twinkling Christmas lights, the brightly lit kitchen makes Liberty into real dinner theater, and Wong is the star. What makes her food different is what makes any chef’s food special: imagination. 5631 Alta Ave., 214-887-8795. $$.

Royal Thai. Furnished with ornate Thai antiques and traditional ans, Royal Thai is a pleasantly upscale change from the starkly serviceable interiors of so many Thai restaurants. Chicken packets are wrapped in tenderizing banana leaves. Curries are fragrant and benefit from their presentation under a little domed top. In Old Town. 5500 Greenville Ave., 214-691-3555.$-$$.

Toy’s Cafe. This hole-in-the-wall joint has all the elements of a great neighborhood “find.”The tantalizing aroma of curry and garlic is welcoming. Thai iced tea is a hit; eggplant and tofu in a Thai green curry coconut milk is perfectly prepared. Fresh squid salad with Thai herbs is fresh and tasty. 4422-B Lemmon Ave., 214-528-7233. $.



VIETNAMESE

Green Papaya. If you’re going to leam anything about pronouncing Vietnamese, learn to say pho correctly. The traditional Vietnamese bowl of broth comes thick with rice noodles and your choice of beef, chicken or meatballs. Most of the other traditional country dishes are good, but someone in the kitchen needs to adjust some of the uninspired seasonings. 3211 Oak Lawn Ave.. 214-521-4811.$.

Mai’s. Mai’s is one of those places that has lots of loyal customers. The menu is stocked with authentic Vietnamese specialties, including lots of noodle and rice entrées and the classic hot pots; exotic meats, vegetables, and spices cooked and served in clay pots. Be sure and try the legendary Vietnamese coffee with sweetened condensed milk. 4812 Bryan St.. 214-826-9887. $.

VietNam. A little bit of Southeast Asia transplanted to East Dallas, VietNam has very little Western influence to make the cultural transition easier. This is Vietnamese food designed for the Vietnamese community. But some things are universal-the appeal of hot soup, for instance. And VietNam’s hot pot, a comforting, steaming caldron of soup, noodles, and vegetables, is enough to share. 4302 Bryan St., 214-821-4542.$-$$.



TARRANT COUNTY

Angelo’s. The big, wood-paneled dance hall of a room is lined with a self-service buffet line, cold-drink coolers, and chip racks on a linoleum floor. You grab a round tray and a frosted stein of Bud and eat from styrofoam plates under antler heads mounted on the walls. The chicken, served “while it lasts,” goes fast-it’s juicy and smoked off the bone. All the usual sides-beans, cole slaw-stand up to the ribs, but we wish they’d put more punch in their thin, vinegar-based sauce. 2533 White Settlement Rd.. Fort Worth. 817-332-0357.$.

Angeluna. The patio swarms with an artsy Chanel-and-Chardonnay crowd before and after events at the Bass Performance Hall across the street. The “one-world-on-a-plate” menu features designer pizzas, pastas, and spinach and mushroom salads corralled by delicate potato rings. Who cares if it’s more about style than substance? After all, the parent company is in Aspen. 215 E. 4th St., Fort Worth. 817-334-0080.$$.

Benito’s. Like an old familiar friend, Benito’s appearance may be spruced up from lime to time, but some things never change–like the food. The queso flameado, with or without chorizo, is flamed tableside and served with fresh pico de gallo and hot flour or corn tortillas. Order it first, and then spend some time with the menu-everything on it is worth trying. I450W. Magnolia Ave., Fort Worth, 817-332-8633. $$.



Bistro Louisa. This gem of a bistro offers takeout now, but the staff seems curiously challenged by the idea. The famed smoked duck and stuffed lamb loin travel well, but even delicate reheating of an appetizer of Brie roasted in pastry petals fails to restore it. Savored in the sunny bistro, the cuisine works Mediterranean magic. Enjoy it there as often as possible. 2900 S. Hulen St.. Fort Worth. 817-922-9244. $$.

Cacharel. This easily tops Arlington’s dining scene, such as it is, with its French country decor and New French cuisine. The fixed-price menu ($34.50) is a great deal. A la carte menu also available. 2221 E. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 910, Arlington, metro 817-640-9981, $$$.

Cattlemen’s Steak House, Fort Worth ate cattle before cattle was cool, and Cattlemen’s is still the quintessential stockyard steakhouse. There’s not much but beef accompanied by rolls, potatoes, and iceberg lettuce salad, but the atmosphere is genuine cowboy. 2458 N. Main St.. Fort Worth, 817-624-3945. $$-$$$.



8.0. See listing in Dallas Eclectic. Ill E. 3rd, Fort Worth, 817-336-0880. $-$$.



D BEST Grape Escape. The gimmick here is education-Grape Escape is trying to do the same thing for wine that brew-pubs did for beer. So you order “flights” of the grape of your choice, and the waiter brings a four-glass tasting of say, chardonnay, from Sonoma, Napa, Australia, and New Zealand. Compare and contrast. The food is designed around the wine, so you can change direction mid-meal-start with white wine and suggested matches, finish with red wine and cheese. The selection of small plates-merguez; sausages, paté, salads, stuffed potatoes, pizzettes-adds up to a full meal that’s lots of fun. 500 Commerce St..FortWorth,8l7-336-9463.$$.

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Joe T. Garcla’s Esperanza’s Mexican Bakery.

Although not as fancy as its cousin around the corner, the chefs do an excellent job preparing all the old favorites from burritos to tamales. Breakfast is a work of art here. And on your way out, the bakery, in an alcove off the dining room, sells traditional Mexican breads, rolls, and sweet rolls. 2122 N. Main St., Fort Worth, 817-626-5770.$$.

D BEST Joe T. Garcla’s Mexican Dishes. The quintessential Fort Worth restaurant, lis location near the Stockyards is a rambling plantation that can handle the crowds for whom the restaurant’s status hovers somewhere between “institution” and “nirvana.” Wait for a spot outside by the pool, and order the enchiladas. Joe doesn’t do credit cards or reservations, either. 2201 N. Commerce St., Fort Worth, 817-626-4356. $$.

Kincaid’s. It’s organized chaos at lunch, but there isn’t a frown in the lime-green room. The burgers are worth the drive from Dallas, and so are the sides: fried okra, deviled eggs, and pimien-to cheese-stuffed jalapenos. If you can manage, have homemade banana pudding for dessert. It’s been a while since we left a restaurant this satisfied for only $5. 4901 Camp Bowie Blvd., Fort Worth, 817-732-2881. $.

D BEST Randall’s Gourmet Cheesecake Company. It’s a wonderfully romantic, candle-lit French cafe serving delightful classic specialties and more than 20 wines by the glass. Beef tenderloin medallions served with rosemary-roasted shallots come with crunchy haricots verts and garlic mashed potatoes. But the pièce de résistance is a savory cheesecake, made of parmesan and feta cheese baked with basil pesto, asparagus, mushrooms, and Kalamata olives. 907 Houston St., Fort Worth, 817-336-2253.$$.

Reata. Reata’s upscale “cowboy cuisine” includes a chicken-fried steak the size of a boot and steaks with Mexican side dishes. A special of blackened salmon is covered with a roasted com, red pepper, and cilanrro relish with small cubes of queso fresco. Sit in the north dining room and watch the sun sink in the west and the Dallas skyline twinkle in the east. 500 Throckmorton St., Fort Worth. 817-336-1009.$$-$$$. Y

Reflections. Maybe you don’t expect high romance in Fort Worth, but maybe you should. Reflections is surely among the most gracefully romantic dining settings in the Dallas-Fort Worth area. Worthington Hotel’s flagship restaurant in downtown Fort Worth offers a refined escape from high-decibel stress. Intuitive service and avant bill of fare live up to the ambience. Delicate pan-seared foie gras with sautéed apples and grilled, whiskey-sauced ostrich medallions with red lentil risotto are representative of the kitchen’s inventions. 200 Main St., Fort Worth, 8I7-882-1660or800-433-5677.$$$,

Saint Emilion. Some are surprised to see this Fort Worth restaurant on the list of top 10 restaurants in the area. But the brick-walled, country French atmosphere is charming, and the food is mostly terrific. The wine list features many vintages from the Saint Emilion region, as you might expect. 3617 W. 7th St., Fort Worth. 817-727-2781.$$$.

Sundance Market and Deli. Every neighborhood could use a Sundance Market and Deli. Urbanités can stop in for a few staples–there’s a refrigerated case with prepared meals, chilled beer and wine, fresh produce, and even a large variety of funky gifts. A cafeteria line offers specialty soups, salads, and spuds. Our favorite is the pastrami, bacon, Swiss, and tomato with spicy mustard grilled on fresh pumpernickel. 353 Throckmorton, Fort Worth, 817-335-3354. $.

Theo’s Diner

The name on the door reads “Theo’s” but the woman doing all the talking behind the counter Is Tony “Theo” Kipriotis’ wife Sybil (you want fries with that) Kipriotis. She stands center stage as the self-designated “Burger Queen” of Dallas, For 20 years they have been slaving over a hot griddle, not only perfecting “The Big Theo”-double meat dressed “all the way” and “dragged through the garden”-but their comedy routine. Theo is the perfect Greek “cheeseburger, cheeseburger” straight man to Sybil’s Paula Poundstone brand ranting. “My husband comes from such a poor family, they couldn’t afford a real middle name; they named them all Theo,” she rages at no one in particular while shoving red plastic baskets to waiting regulars. Sybil knows most of them, and she’ll tell you what they do, their approximate income, and marital status at m extra charge. A Mack and white TV is always on waiting for an “Is Elvis Alive?” update and the walls are lined with postcards from regulars sending detailed accounts of their Elvis sightings. Theo’s is probably the only burger joint in the world to have an herb garden-Theo grows his own fennel to season his addictive three-cheese lasagne. You gotta have fries with that.

111S. Kail @ Commerce, 214-747-6936, $

Bubble Rap



“There comes a time in every woman’s life when the only thing that helps is a glass of champagne.” That famous Bette Davis line now applies to men and women or anyone looking for the perfect gift for this year’s millennium celebration. Wendy Donohue’s gift bags wrap a bottle of bubbly in see-through gold organza or velvet just in time for the ball. And you don’t have to worry about finding the scotch tape. Available at major liquor stores for $10 and under. Or call 214-943-7821, sewwhatR-



NEIGHBORHOOD FIND

Nero’s

It takes a couple of minutes for your eyes to adjust to the darkness of the dining room, but we’ve always believed that the harder it is to see in an Italian restaurant, the better the food. The red lights swagged across the ceiling cast a red glow that makes anyone look good. The music ranges from Italian opera to Nat King Cole. The place to sit is In one of the high backed black booths along the side wall lit by little lamps with griffins and cherubs. Nero’s claims to be the place that put Caesar salad on the dining map of Dallas. When they opened 15 years ago, waiters used to mix them tableside rushing around like lunatics trying to keep up with the demand. Finally chef Luigi Lama decided to toss them In the kitchen to cut down on the madness and keep the quality under control. We started our meal with Nero’s pink garlic bread made from butter pureed with sun-dried tomatoes and garlic. We found it uninspiring, perhaps because we have spent the last few years eating real bruschetta. However, the Caesar is still worth the trip and Luigi isn’t about to detail the 19 ingredients in his recipe. Linguine Fra Diavlo is the house specialty- a steaming plate of sea scallops, gulf shrimp, and mushrooms in spicy marinara sauce. But no meal at Nero’s is complete without a bowl of Luigl’s homemade white chocolate ice cream. He has customers from Arlington who drive in two or three times a month just for dessert. 2104 Greenville, 214-826-6376, $$,

Fancy Food Show



Put away your epicurean mail order catalogs. Cookworks, the Santa Fe-based retailer of fine kitchen equipment, gourmet foods, and distinctive tableware, has finally opened in Galleria North. (That’s just north of the Mall.) Besides stocking Petrossian caviar from Paris, Teuscher chocolates from Switzerland, and Cipriani sauces from Venice, they’re importing national chefs to teach cooking classes in a fancy sit-down dinner atmosphere. The high tech demonstration kitchen has replaced the traditional slanted overhead mirrors, and cooking details are shown on closed circuit monitors. 5213 Alpha Road, 972-960-2665.