TASTING THE TOWN
Big Food, Small Prices
Still reeling from the big bite Big Brother took from your take-home last month? Here’s a quick solution. At these places, for a single surprisingly modest price, you get as much as you want of what you is want. Your only challenge is choosing the type of prodigal spread-native or ethnic-you prefer.
Cajun Catfish. Who needs a trip to the beach, when you can watch the suu set on Lake Ray Hubbard as ; ou stuff yourself on fried catfish with all the trimmings? 1 his place claims “the best catfish in the coun-try,” and keeps it coining, fried in lightly spiced cornmeal, whole or fillets. With fries, hush puppies, cole slaw and tomato relish, the whole-cat meal is $8.95, the fillet dinner, $10.95. Interstate 30 at FM740, Rockwall. 771-9898.
Casita Lupe. This family-run Oak Cliff emporium fills a former Polai^ Bear Ice Cream igloo with spicy aromas and happy patrons for lunch buffets featuring all the old Tex-Mex favorites. Enchiladas and tamales, beer-filled tacos and burritos, beef tips, smoky refried beans, rice and super fresh guacamole are all homemade here. Total tab for the fab feed is $4.19 plus tax. 1207 N. Zang Blvd. 946-6041.
Cici’s Pizza. Brace yourself for this bargain-Cici’s Pizzas all over town feature both lunch and dinner buffets for less than you’ve paid some places for a single mixed drink. What you get is a salad bar, thin-crust and deep-dish New York-style pizza, plus pasta, garlic bread, pizza rolls and a cinnamon-stick dessert, all for $2.99. We’re partial to the location at 3611 14th St. in Piano, 423-0240.
McKay’s Family Steakhouse. No dietary deprivation here- this country-style establishment runs the home-cooking gamut daily with never fewer than four entrees, plus vegetables, soups, salads and desserts. Featured main-dish specials range from roast beef on Sunday to ribs and brisket on Thursday. For dessert, you’ve got cobbler, cakes, frozen yogurt, fresh fruit, muffins and more, all included at lunch for $4.49 or at dinner for $5.49. Check it out at 1102 Northwest Highway, Garland. 613-3096.
Royal 88. Asian hospitality reaches some kind of zenith in this seafood-focused all-you-can-eat emporium-even sushi is among the delights set out on the cold seafood table, which also offers shrimp and on-the-shell oysters. That’s at dinner only, but both noon and night buffets satisfy hearty appetites with a salad bar as well as a hot-food line. Desserts, including pastries and fresh fruit, are included. $6.50 for lunch. $12.50 for dinner. 400 Greenville Ave.. Richardson. 907-8868.
As he saunters past booths filled with late-lunchers on a Friday afternoon at 8.0, handshakes go out to him in sync with greetings of, “Hey, Mark! How’s it goin’?”
Ex-8.0 doorman Mark Cotton is back, now as manager. Cotton, who stands 6 feet 6 inches tall, is like a lone, long-fingered cactus in the desert-he’s hard to miss. Of course, it’s also hard to miss his pompadour, an amazing creation that would put Elvis to shame. “I’m 7-foot-l, with boots and hair,” he says, lightly touching his moussed brown do.
Cotton just returned to Dallas from the 8.0 restaurant and bar in Houston, where he served as manager for two years. The ex-briefcase carrying employee for Ford Motor Company’s consumer affairs department says that he was hired by Shan non Wynne in 1989 while he was sitting in a Deep Ellum bar. doing his trademark “Rockabilly Hollers.” ’i think I was doing a number 7,” he says, “which is a more elaborate version of my number 6, sort of a hooo-ray. Shannon asked me if I wanted a job, and I thought, sounds good, what the hell?” Cotton has no regrets about leaving the corporate world and says he loves everything about his jot)-including the 5 p.m. to 5 a.m. hours. “It’s like a carnival every night, and I’m still finding out how to better run the carnival, I think I’ll stay for a while.” -Ellise Pierce
ON THE ROAD
Back to the Future in Frisco
Taking the historic Preston Road northward to Frisco on any spring day, 1993, is like going on an archaeological expedition in reverse-instead of digging through layers of civilization to reach the bedrock past, you can see the country’s rural bones in the process of being overlaid by deveropment before your very eyes. It’s in Frisco itself though, that inner-city food lovers will find the most rewarding back-to-the-future experience. Remember the yummy designer pizzas and other fresh Italian fare we used to savor at Acapella on Maple Avenue? When owner Edgar Watson lost his lease and closed the place, some of us thought we’d never enjoy them again. Now, they’re back in full flavor, in Watson’s new restaurant. He calls this one Adagio, but the menu’s virtually the same as Acapella’s, and the food is fine as ever, from richly flavored herbed potato soup to robust Caesar salad to my favorite pizza, a zippy medley of fresh salmon, goat cheese, onions and capers on stone oven-crisped crust. Take Preston Road 17 miles beyond LBJ, then look for the sign on your left at 9741 Preston Road. 335-2234. -B.C.
The People’s Choice
POPOLOS CAFE Normally I wait at least a month to review a new restaurant-1 try to give new places a grace period to get the kinks out. But word of mouth about Popolos, a hot new Italian cafe and bakery in Preston Royal, was already doing my work for me, so I had lunch there only a week after its opening, Since owner Maury Jaf-fer named the new restaurant after his favorite place in Rome, Piazza da Popolo, it seems appropriate that the public would review it by acclamation. On both my visits, the place was packed with people waiting at the door. And, it seems that if there had ever bean any kinks at Popolos, they were gone by the time I got there.
The interior of the restaurant has been lightened and opened since its brief incarnation as Pecan Grill. The wood has been bleached, the seating rearranged and colorful contemporary art hung on the white walls. A wood-fired oven, surrounded by tiles and stone, is the focal point of the open kitchen. Under the direction of executive chef Mark Gonzales, it dominates the restaurant as it deserves to.
Crust is the soul of pizza-it doesn’t matter what you put on top as long as the crust is right. In fact, good pizza crust is tasty without any topping. And Popolos’ is superior-light and crisp with a fresh, fragrant bite. The choice of pizzas is irresistible. For lunch we tried one with turkey sausage sparked with fennel; for dinner, my friend and I split a pizza topped with goat cheese and juicy oven-roasted tomatoes as an appetizer.
For lunch, there’s a list of pastas with your choice of sauce, a selection of grilled items with your choice of basting sauce, some salads and sandwiches. We sampled a little of everything-firm penne with a spicy arrabiatta tomato and pepper sauce, pungent Caesar salad, half a juicy roasted chicken with rosemary and wonderful grilled vegetables-long slices of zucchini, pepper, skinny eggplant and onion.
Dinner was also a sell-out. But the staff, under the direction of general manager Ron Corcoran, handled the crowds well,
The dinner menu is virtually the same as the lunch menu, sans sandwiches but with the addition of two risottos and two specialties-veal piccatta and beef. We tried a fettuccine with smoked chicken whose smoky taste permeated the dish a bit too strongly, and a special fish dish, grilled Alaskan halibut with rosemary butter, which came with the same vegetables we had enjoyed at lunch. For dessert, we tried an apple tart, flaky, fruity and not too sweet-with a cup of perfect cappuccino. Preston Royal Shopping Center. 692-5497. Sun.-Fri. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri-Sat. 11 a.m.-11 p.m. All credit cards. Moderate. -Mary Brown Malouf
CAYSE Those same friendly folks who brought us Eduardo’s Aca y Alla, Maggie and Eduardo Greene, have hit the bull’s-eye again. This time, they’ve aimed at corralling all the Bubbas and wannabes in the territory, and you can tell they’re dead on target because the stampede’s already started in the direction of the old Crazy Crab location on Oak Lawn. Cayuse is what old-time cowhands called their horse; in this case they’d have to turn theirs over to the valet out front, but small matter: Once you’re inside, you might as well be in a real Western saloon.
Well, maybe not quite. True, the long front bar goes on forever, with plenty of bellying-up-to space, but the mementos shadowboxed on strewn gravel under the bar’s glass top are more artfully evocative than authentic. The booths that line me facing wall and continue back through the vast dining area are too slick to cuddle a cowboy, although their wall-hung jukebox terminals call up genuine country tunes, from way back to current favorites. If your eyes get past the curiously elongated bucking bronco and rider hung from the ceiling, they’ll take in a vast movie-cowboy mural painted by artists Teel Lawler and Janie Hughes that surrounds a massive stone fireplace on the back wall.
Feasting is pretty much what you do here, on prodigal servings at near-pittance prices for everything except the grilled steaks, which can run up there if you order the two-pound cuts. Most of the menu, though, is made up of Southwestern dishes that are almost, but not really, down-home in style.
The best of those we tried on two visits were shockingly wonderful. Appetizers were big enough to share or make do as small main dishes-particularly mile-high Cheddar cheese biscuits swathed in cream gravy under whiskey-smoked turkey strips, and a sausage sampler with andouille, venison and Italian sausage cuts in red-eye gravy sided with cumin-kissed white beans,
Grilled wild mushrooms were succulent-ly exciting in a heady herb and garlic gravy ; corn chowder with jalapeno cream would have done justice to the most upscale joint in town. Tombstone turkey chili was a potent success, so rich-tasting my chilihead companion refused to believe the meat came off some sissy bird rather than a cow.
Cole slaw claimed to be right from Grandma’s recipe book, and might have been-certainly it was fresh and creamy-mild enough, The house salad, a mighty toss of field greens and spinach with red wine vinaigrette, filled a vast plate with fresh crispness.
My first-visit companion indulged himself shamelessly on a full-pound rib-eye (steaks come in 10-ounce to 2-pound sizes) that was grilled as close to perfection as I’ve ever known the cut to be. My Maggie’s meat loaf, hearty and nicely mushroom-sauced with its garlic mashed potatoes and grilled vegetables, more than quelled my appetite.
The second trip’s “’blanket” pot pie was less interesting, its crust more biscuit than pastry-like, its seasoning bland; but my companion’s pan-seared calf’s liver with roasted apples and caramelized onions was deep-flavored poetry.
Dessert-wise, I challenged anyone to find room for any, but those we tried were estimable-a fine, dark, flourless chocolate cake and warmed-to-order pecan pie over filled us gratifyingly. Service was warm, prompt and accommodating, despite the crowd. 3211 Oak Lawn. 521-0114. Man.- Thur. 9 a.m.-10:30 p.m.; Fri. 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sat. 9 a.m.-2 p.m. (breakfast) and 4 p.m.-midnight; Sun. 9 a.m.-2 p.m. (break fast) and 4 p.m.-10:30 p.m. Inexpensive to moderate. -Betty Cook
Gimmickry Run Amok on McKinney
ORLEANS PASTA KITCHEN This is a charming old house just off McKinney with lots of windows and a big patio furnished with cast-iron garden furniture and a wooden porch swing. It’s a remarkably pleasant location for a restaurant. Unfortunately, despite the declaration on the menu that “the food is the concept,” the kitchen seems to concentrate more on cleverness than on flavor. Orleans has as many gimmicks as menu items.
The menu is a list of “wood-fired” pizzas and pastas with a few salads. At the risk of sounding grumpy, 1 was put off right away by the gimmicky garnish sprinkled on the wide rims of the pasta plates-one came with chopped parsley, one with grated cheese, etc. I’ve always disliked this style of garnish since it seems to me the rim serves as a barrier between you and the food.
Still, the pastas were the best dishes we tried at Orleans since die wood fire seemed invariably to turn out a crust like cardboard, especially a problem on a pie like the delicious-sounding roast garlic pizza. Topped with nutty-sweet, roasted whole cloves of garlic, crumbles of salty feta cheese, chewy bits of sun-dried tomatoes and mounds of fresh spinach, this cheese-less pizza needed something to meld the flavors and textures together, and that something should have been the crust. On the other hand, under a traditional topping like pepperoni and cheese (huge 4″ wide slices of sausage and lots of mozzarella), the crust just fell apart. When served alone, as an appetizer called “bomba” bread, the pizza crust really had no taste at all.
The list of pastas, subtitled “flavors of the world,” featured global ideas about noodles-pasta of all shapes topped with jambalaya, paella, barbecued chicken and Mexican tequila chicken, to name a few. There’s even a version of macaroni and cheese. We tried Thai-style pasta, which has become popular on several menus around town; this version mixed shrimp, chicken and shiitake mushrooms with bean sprouts, cilantro and carrots on angel hair noodles with a sweet and hot peanut sauce that became a little cloying. Pasta Mykonos was a Greek-flavored dish with purple calamata olives, scallops, peppers and feta in a spicy sauce. The strong New York pasta was my favorite-with Italian sausage, wilted peppers and onions and chunks of tomato in a marinara sauce.
For silly gimmickry, the “Messy Sundae” takes the cake. The footed sundae glass had been dipped in chocolate sauce so the outside was a sticky, gooey mess, filled with frozen yogurt and an unpleasant chocolate sauce with the bitter powdery taste of too much cocoa powder. Not a good idea. 2704 Worthington. 871-0808. Sun.- Thur. 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 11 am..-midnight. AE, CB, DC, MC, V Inexpensive to moderate. -M.B.M
NATALIE’S Natalie’s is not the best place I’ve eaten this month, but it has by far the best story. Are you ready for this: The principal of Hyer Elementary School had a running, semi-serious joke with his cafeteria manager about opening a restaurant. And one day, they did it-they found a little spot in Preston Royal and called it ’’Natalie’s” after the cafeteria manager. The principal works at night with his wife or daughter-in-law and Natalie is there during the day. The result is a comfortable, friendly place that is endearingly unprofessional-you could as soon kick a puppy as pan it.
I understand that some people get nostalgic about school cafeteria food-I was a confirmed brown-bagger myself so it’s hard for me to relate. I do know there were good days and bad days in the line-sometimes you filled your tray, other days you filled up on rolls. Our visits to Natalie’s were a little like that. Salads were mostly iceberg; the Caesar had a powdered garlic taste. Pot roast slices under deep brown gravy were slightly tough with that steamed-and-holding taste of line food; they came with yellow mashed potatoes and carrots. Chicken-fried steak had been run through the tenderizer once too often but the crust was crunchy; it was topped with yellowish gravy with more mashed potatoes on the side. However, the enchilada plate was terrific with its beans and rice and homestyle enchiladas covered with thick meaty chili, lots of cheese and onions.
No beer or wine is sold, but you’re offered complimentary wine with your meal and we were most happy with a bottomless glass of real-not flavored-iced tea (I’m so tired of taking that first sip only to be shocked by the taste of mangoes or raspberries). There’s a case of pies and rolls in the back; the aroma of cinnamon rolls from another table was too enticing to ignore, so we ate one for dessert and took a dozen home.
Natalie’s is not for snobs. By the way, be warned-since Natalie’s doesn’t serve alcohol, it’s not required to have a public restroom. 5944 Royal. 739-0362. AE, DS, MC. V. Inexpensive. -M.B.M.
GOING GOURMET When Oona and Ettore Settembre opened their tiny emporium in a corner of the shopping center at Northwest Highway and Midway, they must have thought their trade would be more takeout than eat-in-they provided seating for no more than 20 at a handful of tiny round tables more suiable for coffee and quick-snucking than serious dining.
Silly them. Food like Oona’s (she was a chef at Hofstter’s) couldn’t go undiscovered for long, and even Ettore’s house-managing competence (he was a captain at The Mansion i was hard put to shoehorn in die avid urbanites who quickly thronged the space. Lucky diem, though; the space next door became available and, by me time you read this, will have made room for another I ) or so tables.
Which still won’t be enough, I predict. Going Gournet is a comer in all respects-the takeout business is a-boom, offering a variety of ready-to-heat Italian and Southwestern casseroles, luxury staples for home cooks (prosciutto, exotic mushrooms, coffees, teas), as well as anything from the day’s blackboard menu boxed to go. But it’s the restaurant side of the operation that’s taken hold of discoverers’ hearts: The cozy ambiance of the place is irresistible and the food-well, I’d bet Oona Settembre could make doorknobs taste wonderful.
Witness our two visits’ appetizers. A whole artichoke “farcita” was stuffed with herbs, garlic and Parmesan, each leaf a teasing thrill Steamed mussels were bathed in herbed white wine, tomato dice, a splash of cream-and lavishly heaped in a broad pink bowl. A melt of baked Brie was accompanied by roasted pepper strips and a head of buttery roasted garlic; duck liver, crisped in a light gilding of flour, lay on a succulent bed of vinaigrette-dressed, warm mixed salad greens.
Entrees were as memorable. Sautéed veal liver Veneziana shone in a robust oregano-spiked wine sauce with onions; creamy risotto held pork bits, spinach and onion under a crown of grated fresh Parmesan. Sesame-crusted duck breast with ginger in wine sauce filled its plate with rosy, tender slices; sautéed baby lamb chops, also vine-sauced, were arranged around a wedge of cheesy sautéed polenta, creamy centered and crisp-skinned-the best I’ve encountered in several years.
We had little room left for desserts, but shared two, a lovely pillow of tender tiramisu, and a formidably thick cut of bread pudding I found rather dry despite its caramelized sugar sauce. Coffee is a must-try art form here-whatever blend you choose (from 20) is brewed and served in a French coffee press, with espresso and cappuccino offered as delectable alternates. Wines are a bring-your-own affair (50 cents per person corkage); even so, prices were shockingly low-our dinners-for-two came to less than dinner-for-one at most places of comparable quality. Service was attentive and warm, and patrons both lights we were there seemed enchanted with their luck at having access to such a pleasant dining experience. Count us among them, 4345 W. Northwest Hwy., Suite 270. 351-6773. Mon.-Thur. 10 a.m.-9 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 10 a.m.-9:30a.rn.-9:30 p.m. AE, CB, OS. MC, V. Inexpensive. -B.C.
D REVISITS EZ’s. When we take the family to EZ’s, we let the kids have a separate table next to us so they can enjoy a parallel evening. Perhaps because this is truly a family restaurant and has pro vided for everyone, it’s a good compromise: We can eat something besides burgers and pizza while the kids eat burgers and pizza; they get milkshakes or refillable soft drinks, we drink red wine. The rosemary chicken is juicy and lender and the crack er-like foccacia is sprinkled with cheese. There are individual, thick-crusted pizzas so each person can have their own, the burgers are thick and cooked to order and the fries are crisp and fresh. And of course, we all have hot fudge sundaes for dessert. 6833 W. Northwest Hwy., 750-6677. AE. MC, V. Inexpensive. -M.B.M.
D REVISITS Good Eats Cafe. You get the feeling Good Eats is poised on the brink of being a cross-country chain-the same silly clock tower marks nearly every location and inside you find standardized decor instead of the eclectic stuff that we used to see. It all adds up to a Kip’s Big Boy for the ’90s. The food seems to be settling into the same predictable mediocrity. There’s no “home” in this home cooking. One evening’s special of thin tenderloin slices, cooked all the way through, came in a dark brown gravylike sauce; chicken-fried steak was hard-crusted and bland. Overcooked green beans and lumpy mashed potatoes were the vegetables of choice: the salad dressing on basic lettuce was incredibly sweet. Fried chicken was the best thing we tried-juicy but crisp and golden. 3888 Oak Lawn. 522-3287. All credit cards. Inex pensive. -M.B.M.
D REVISITS Clair de Lune. There are no sur prises here-every recipe is a classic-except the unexpected excellence. Clair de Lune has the feel of a civilized dining room with a lamp and side board against one wall. This style of neighborhood French food should he more common than it is. We started with a savory, coarse-textured house terrine with plenty of fat running through il, cornichons and a relish of onion, garlic and tomato (like a French pico de gallo) with toast points. Brie soup is sort of an old chestnut (remember when it was die height of luxury?) but seemed luxuriously smooth and rich, especially in these days of fat-conscious ness. Entrees were equally lovely-from the “light” side of the menu, we tried a wonderful thick piece of salmon over steamed lettuce with gently steamed vegetables. Four lamb chops provencal grilled in rosemary sauce were rosy inside and came with roast potatoes; a special veal chop was served in Madeira sauce. For dessert we had a perfect crème caramel and ethereal soufflés, the chocolate one so dark the bottom was almost cakelike. Service throughout our meal was good but we had to wait an inordinately long time for our check. At that point we were ready to nap on the table. 5934 Royal, Suite 120. 987-2028. All credit cards. Mod erate to expensive. -M. B. M.
D REVISITS Massimo da Milamo. Unlike other establishments with aspirations to multiply, this one doesn’t clone look-alikes in its new restaurant locations-as witness the Addison offspring, which is much larger than the Lovers Lane original and does a somewhat less confusing turn on cafeteria-style service. The sleek neo-Italian black-and-white decor is similar, though, and so is the food. With one major difference: The new place boasts a head-of-the-line station that prepares the day’s featured hoi dish to order-an improvement that made the meal memorable on our visit. The entree of note, called Pasta Americana, involved big ridged tubes with plum tomatoes, chopped scallions and intensely rich-flavored bacon in a spicy red sauce that was truly outstanding-even after it cooled on our tray as we chose the rest of the meal’s items. Minestrone was standard issue, cooked to mush and hardly seasoned; navy bean soup, also undersea-soned, was nonetheless homey and warming. A pasta salad with carrot strips, snow peas, red bell peppers and other pretty vegetables was beautiful but-like so many of Massimo’s pasta salads-bland, dressed little if at all. Another salad of quartered ripe tomatoes tossed with hearts of palm was luckier-the pale palm ribbons added tart pickle flavor. Caesar salad, though, shot through with long Parmesan strands and vividly dressed, put them both to shame. I’d like to take issue with the new owner’s redesign of the breadsticks I’ve always loved: No longer hand-formed beauties, they’ve been reduced to half-length or less, and look machine-cut. Ah. well, that too is progress, I suppose. Village on the Parkway 5100 Belt Line Road, Addison. 661-5255. AE, MC, V. Moderate. -B.C.
D REVISITS Mise En Place. I was so excited when this tiny takeout pizza place opened. Wisely. the focus was on pizza and salad exclusively and both were some of the best thai could be found any where. The wide variety of top-quality toppings and the just-chewy-enough homemade bread crust crisped on the bottom made the pizzas something extra-special. A recent revisit confirmed my first impression of the pizzas-piled with an imagina- tive assortment of mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, pesto and smoked chicken, each pie we tasted was as wonderful as we remembered. Those fondly remembered salads, though, were a major disap pointment. The Greek salad was no more than mar inated iceberg lettuce with crumbled feta cheese and olives, and I suppose they either forgot to dress the Caesar salad or include it with our order because it was nothing more than shredded lettuce and a few croutons. I’m hoping this was just a glitch and that those salad days will return. 7011 Lomo Alto. 520- 2424. No credit cards. Inexpensive. -M.B.M.
D REVISITS Tupinamba. Years ago, soft tor tillas were part of the table setting in a Tex-Mex restaurant. I”m not exactly an old-timer, but even I can recall when, like bread and butter, tortillas were served with everything-sensibly, since it’s almost impossible to eat a messy Mexican meal without tortillas to hold things together. These days, it seems like you have to ask for them except in older Tex-Mex establishments like Tupi’s. This old favorite moved from seedy West Northwest High way out to the cusp of North Dallas at Midway and LBJ. The setting is a little sterile, but the food is sat isfying. Handmade tacos are fried after filling so you have to pry them open like turtle beaks to insert a little lettuce for relief from the creamy rich bean and meat stuffing. 12801 Midway, Suite 503. 243- 2355. All credit cards. Moderate. -M.B.M.
D REVISITS Cafe Brazil. Just a year ago in this space, we were talking about the tiny, near- secret Cafe Brazil that had crept shyly into a comer of Lakewood. Comes now its offshoot sibling, a new Cafe Brazil that is to the first as a lusty tree is to a potted plant-that is to say, bigger, louder, not at all shy, and already a thronged hangout in its North Central/University Drive neighborhood. Oddly enough, despite its much larger space, the new arrival pretty much duplicates the original’s ambiance, in laid-back attitude if not intimacy, and both the menu and the no-smoking-anywhere poli cy are identical. Open 24 hours daily, the new Cafe Brazil is a fine, social place to run into people you know over heavy breakfasts or light other meals at all hours. We felt splendidly decadent ordering breakfast dishes at noon, and found the Brazilian combo of basted eggs, a sturdy chicken empanada with tomatillo sauce, rosemary potatoes and home made bread a more-than-ample feed. Ditto break fast tacos with spicy chorizo, Cheddar and feta cheeses, and red peppers. A build-your-own omelette with Asiago cheese and chunky portobello mushrooms was the lightest dish we sampled, and that, too, proved more than the grown man who ordered it could put away. As in the original loca tion, soups here are served in a hollowed bread loaf; sandwiches are great slablike constructions of many components; and coffee comes in a variety of flavors, all transcendentally fresh and bracing. As for prices, the steepest on the menu is a whole muf- faletta for $8.75; most items are around half that. 6420 N. Central at Fondren. 691-7791. AE. MC, V. Inexpensive. -B.C.
D REVISITS Thai Lanna. This inner-city pioneer brought us Thai before Thai was trendy, so it was with something approaching dismay that we heard it had changed hands. Would some of our favorite dishes be altered along with the ownership? Not noticeably, on the limited supper sampling our apprehensive visit provided. I say limited-Thai Lanna is one of those big-serving places that’s most fun if you take several companions, order many dishes and share them all. Two people can barely scratch its menu’s surface, but we did what we could, demolishing an appetizer platter of mee-grob (as always, better here than anywhere else I’ve had it-a mountain of sweet-sour fried noodle curls liberally studded with whole shrimp and garnished with crisp bean sprouts) and savoring the suave mildness of silken wontons with crab meat in delicate broth. For heat, spicy bamboo shoots and lean pork teamed in a green curry coconut cream that nicely balanced the peppery piquance of the dish. We’d have ordered more, if only to taste, but our spritzy and warmly attentive waitress would allow no such eyes-bigger-than-stomach nonsense; a check of the little restaurant’s immortal chicken coconut soup and spicy whole fried Fish will simply have to wait for another visit. She did allow us iced Thai coffee, though, which gave us an excuse to linger in the comfortably upholstered booth until we’d gathered strength to waddle out. Highest price on the menu here is $12 (the whole fish); most items are less than half that. 4315 Bryan Street. 827-6478. MC, V. Inexpensive. -B.C.
Arnold’s Texas Barbecue. 601 N. Haskell. 826-1234. Inexpensive.
Baker’s Ribs. 2724 Commerce. 748-5433. Inexpensive.
Billy Blues Barbecue & Grill. 2020 N. Lamar at McKinney. 87]-0661. Inexpensive to moderate.
Peggy Sue BBQ. 6600 Snider Plaza. 987-9189. Inexpensive.
Riscky’s. 1701 N. Market. Suite 104. 742-7001. Inexpensive.
R.J.’S Sho-Nuf. 3910 Maple Ave. 528-5230. Inexpensive.
Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse. 2202 Inwood. 357-7120. 302 N. Market. 744-1610. Inexpensive.
Jennivine. 3605 McKinney Ave. 528-6010. Inexpensive to moderate.
Outback Pub. 1701 N. Market, Suite 105. 761-9355. Inexpensive.
Allen Street Bar & Grill. 2900 McKinney Ave. S71 -0256. Inexpensive to moderate.
Balls Hamburgers. 3404 Rankin in Snider Plaza. 373-1717. 4343 W. Northwest Hwy. 352-2525. Inexpensive.
Chip’s. 4501 N. Central Expwy. 526-1092. Inexpensive.
8.0. 2800 Routh St. 979-0880. Inexpensive.
Gold Rush Cafe. 1913 Skillman Ave. 823-6923. Inexpensive.
The Green Elephant Bar and Grill. 5612 Yale. 750-6625. Inexpensive.
Hard Rock Cafe. 2601 McKinney Ave. 855-0007. Moderate.
Prince of Hamburgers. 5200 Lemmon Ave. 526-9081. Inexpensive.
Snuffers. 3526 Greenville Ave. 826-6850. 14910 Midway, Addison. 991-8811. Inexpensive.
Starlight Diner. 2715 Elm. 747-STAR. Inexpensive.
State. 3611 Parry Ave. 821-9246. Inexpensive.
Texas Hamburgers. 1606 Market Center Blvd. 747-2222. Inexpensive.
Atchafalaya River Cafe. 4440 Belt Line, Addison. 960-6878. Moderate.
Cafe Margaux. 4527 Travis. 520-1985. Moderate.
Crescent City Cafe. 2730 Commerce. 7454900. inexpensive.
Dodie’s Seafood Cafe. 2129 Greenville Ave. 821-8890. Inexpensive.
Louisiana Purchase. 2901 N. Central Expwy.. Suite 101, Piano. 423-0533. Inexpensive to moderate.
Nate’s Seafood & Steakhouse. 14951 Midway Road, Addison. 701-9622. Moderate.
Pappadeaux Seafood Kitchen. 3520 Oak Lawn. 5214700. Moderate to expensive.
Tchoupitoulas. 3301 MeKinney Ave. 953-3083. Moderate.
Gloria’s Restaurant. 600 W. Davis. 948-3672. 9386 LBJ Frwy, at Abrams. 690-0622. Inexpensive.
August Moon. 15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. 2300 N. Central Expwy., Plano. 881 -0071. Moderate.
Cafe Panda. 7979 Inwood, Suite 121. 902-9500-Moderate.
Canton Chinese Restaurant. 400 N. Greenville Ave., Suite 25, Richardson. 238-1863. Inexpensive.
Cathy’s Wok. 4010 W. 15th, Piano. 964-0406. Inexpensive.
Central China. 330 Medallion Center. 363-7428. Moderate.
Chu’s Restaurant. 15080 Beltway. Addison. 387-1776. Moderate.
Crystal Pagoda. 4516 McKinney Ave. 526-3355. Moderate.
Far East. 4830 Greenville Ave. 373-6041. lnexpensive.
First Chinese Barbecue. Ill S. Greenville Ave.. Richardson, 680-8216. Inexpensive.
General China. 1920 Skillman. 827-3688. Inexpensive.
Henry Chen’s. 3701 W. Northwest Hwy. 956-9560. Moderate.
Hong Kong Royale. 221 W. Polk, Suite 200 Richardson 238-8888. Moderate to expensive.
Hunan Restaurant. 5214 Greenville Ave. 369-4578. Inexpensive to moderate.
Lovers Eggroll. 5360 W. Lovers Lane, Suite 205. 358-1318. Inexpensive.
May Dragon. 4848 Belt Line at Inwood. 392-9998. Moderate.
Restaurant Jasmine. 4002 Belt Line, Suite 200, Addison. 991-6867. Moderate.
Szechwan Pavilion. 8411 Preston. 368-4303. 1152 N. Buckner. Suite 128. Casa Linda Plaza. 321 -7599. Moderate.
Taiwan Restaurant. 49H0 Bell Line. Addison. 387-2333. Inexpensive to moderate.
Tasty China. 3512 W. Walnut, Garland, 276-1999. Inexpensive.
Texas Jade. 3232 McKinney Ave. &71-8898. Moderate.
Tong’s House. 1910 Promenade Center. Richard-son. 231-8858. Moderate.
Uncle Tai’s. 13350 Dallas Pkwy., in the Galleria. 934-9998. Expensive.
Young Shing. 3701 W. Walnut St., Garland. 487-1188. Inexpensive.
Dallul. 2515 Inwood. 353-0804, Inexpensive to moderate.
River Nile. 7001 Fair Oaks. 363-1128. Inexpensive to moderate.
Addison Cafe. 5290 Bell Line. Suite 108. 991-8824. Moderate to expensive.
Chez Gerard. 4444 McKinney Ave. 522-6865. Moderate to expensive.
Ewald’s. Stoneleigh Hotel, 2927 Maple. 871-2523. Expensive.
The French Room. The Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Very expensive.
The Grape. 2808 Greenville Ave. 828-1981. Moderate,
Highland Park Cafe. 69 Highland Park Village. Preston at Mockingbird. 521-7300. Expensive.
Juniper. 2917 Kairmount. 855-0700. Expensive.
La Madeleine. 3072 W. Mockingbird. 696-0800. 3906 Lemmon Ave. 521-0183. 628 NorthPark Center. 696-2398. 11930 Preston (at Forest). 233-6448. Galleria, at ice rink level. 991-7790. Inexpensive.
L’Ancestral. 4514 Travis. 528-1081. Moderate.
Le Caviste. 5405 W. Lovers Une. 352-6512. Moderate.
Monte Carlo. 15201 Dallas Pkwy., in the Grand Kernpinski Dallas Hotel. 386-6000. Expensive.
The Old Warsaw. 2610 Maple. 528-0032. Very expensive.
Pierre’s By The Lake. 3430 Shorecrest. 358-2379. Moderate to expensive.
The Riviera. 7709 Inwood. 351-0094. Very expensive.
St. Martins. 3020 Greenville Ave. 826-0940. Moderate to expensive.
Sweet Temptations. 9090 Skillman. 503-6007. Inexpensive to moderate.
Tony’s Wine Warehouse and Bistro. 2904 Oak Lawn. 520-9463. Inexpensive.
Watel’s. 1923 McKinney Ave.. 72(W)323. Moderate to expensive.
The Wine Press. 4217 Oak Lawn. 522-8720. Moderate to expensive.
York St. 6047 Lewis. 826-0968. Expensive.
Belvedere. 4242 Lomo Alto, in the Crest park Hotel. 528-6510. Expensive.
Cafe Athenee. 5365 Spring Valley, Suite 150. 239-8060. Moderate.
The Chimney. 9739 N. Central Expwy. 369-6466. Expensive.
Franki’s Li’l Europe. 362 Casa Linda Plaza. 320-0426. Moderate.
Hofstetter’s. Plaza at Bachman Creek, 3840 W. Northwest Hwy.. Suite 400. 358-7660. Inexpensive to moderate.
Kuby’s Sausage House Inc. 6601 Snider Plaza. 363-2231. Inexpensive.
The Russian Room. 500 Crescent Court, upstairs. 922-3333. Expensive to very expensive.
Cafe Greek. Preston Valley Shopping Center, Preston Road al LBJ. 934-9767. Moderate.
Cafe Nelu. 56 Arapaho Village (Arapaho and West-shore), Richardson. 235-5387. Inexpensive to moderate.
Goldfinger. 2905 Webb Chapel Extension. 350-6983. Moderate to expensive.
Kosta’s Cafe. 4914 Greenville Ave. 987-3225. Inexpensive,
The M Street Grill. 2014 Greenville Ave. 826-8989. Inexpensive to moderate.
Theodore’s Seafood Restaurant. The Corner Shopping Center. 8041 Walnut Hill. Suite 810. 361-1922. Moderate to expensive.
Backstreet. 212 N. Crowdus. 748-7191. Inexpensive.
Bishop Arts Cafe. 316 W. Seventh St. 943-3565. Inexpensive to moderate.
Brownie’s. 5519 East Grand. 824-2996. Inexpensive.
Celebration. 4503 W. Lovers Lane. 351-5681. Inexpensive to moderate.
Chubby’s. 11333 E. Northwest Hwy. 348-6065. Inexpensive.
Farmer’s Grill. 4015 Lemmon Ave. 521-2281. Inexpensive.
Gennie’s Bishop Grille. 321 N. Bishop. 946-1752. Inexpensive.
Highland Park Pharmacy. 3229 Knox. 521-2126, Inexpensive.
Jay’s Cafe. 2912 Elm St. 761-1811. Inexpensive.
Lucky’S. 3531 Oak Lawn. 522-3500. Inexpensive.
Mama’s Daughters’ Diner. 2014 Irving Blvd. 742-8646. 2610 Royal Lane. 241-8646. Inexpensive.
The Mecca. 10422 Harry Hines. 352-0051. Inexpensive.
Original Market Diner. 4434 Harry Hines. 521-0992. Inexpensive.
Theo’s Diner. IMS. Hall. 747-6936. Inexpensive.
Tolbert’s. One Dallas Center, 350 N. St. Paul. 953-1353. 1800 N. Market. 969-0310. Inexpensive to moderate.
Akbar. 2115 Promenade Center. Richardson. 235-0260. Inexpensive I lunch) to moderate (dinner).
Ashoka Indian Cuisine. 5409 Belt Line. Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center, 960-0070. Moderate.
Bombay Cricket Club. 2508 Maple. 871-1333. Moderate.
Curry in a Hurry- 4302 Bryan (ai Peak). 821-4542. Inexpensive.
India Palace Restaurant. 12817 Preston. Suite 105. 392-0190. Moderate to expensive.
Kebab-N-Kurry. 401 N. Central Expwy., Suite 300. Richardson. 231-5556. Inexpensive to moderate.
Kebab-N-Kurry- 2620 Walnut Hill. 350-6466. Inexpensive.
Shalimar. 35 Richardson Heights Village, Central at Bell Line, Richardson. 437-2858. Inexpensive.
Shusmi. 859 N.E. Green Oaks. Arlington. (817) 860-8728. Moderate.
Taj Mahal. Caruth Plaza, 9100 N. Central Expwy.. Suite 179. 692-0535. Moderate.
Alessio’s. 4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585. Expensive.
Amici Signature Italian. 1022 S. Broadway, Carrollton. 245-3191. Moderate to expensive.
Andiamo. 4151 Belt Line. 233-1515. Moderate to expensive.
Angelo’s. 6341 La Vista. 823-5566. Inexpensive to moderate.
Arcodoro. 2520 Cedar Springs. 871-1924. Inexpensive to moderate.
Caffe Paparazzi. 8989 Forest Lane, Suite 136. 644-1323- Moderate.
Capriccio. 2515 McKinney Ave. 871-2004. Expensive.
Chianti Restaurant and Pizzeria. 3505 W. Northwest Hwy. 350-7456. Inexpensive.
Fausto’s Oven. 300 Reunion Blvd., in the Hyatt Regency Hotel. 712-7144. Moderate.
Ferrari’s. 703 McKinney Ave., in The Brewery. 954-1112. Moderate to expensive.
Flip’s Wine Bar & Trattoria. 1520 Greenville Ave. 824-9944. Moderatc.
II Nonno’s. Hyatt Regency D/FW, East Tower. 453-8400 Moderate to expensive.
Joey Tomato’s Atlantic City. 3232 McKinney Ave. 754-0380. Inexpensive to moderate.
La Tosca. 7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Expensive.
La Trattoria Lombardi’s. 2916 N. Hall. 954-0803. Moderate.
Mi Piaci. 14854 Montfort. 934-8424. Moderate to expensive.
MoMo’s Italian Specialties. 9191 Forest Lam:. Suite A2. 231-6800. 3309 N. Central Expwy., Suite 370, Piano. 423-1066. Moderate.
MoMo’s Pasta. 3312 Knox. 521-3009. Inexpensive.
Netro’s. 2104 Greenville Ave. 826-6376. Moderate.
Osteria da Momo. 2704 Elm. 748-4222. Moderate.
Patrizio. 25 Highland Park Village. 522-7878. Inexpensive to moderate.
Piccola Cucina. NorthPark Center, Suite 330. 691-0488. Moderate.
Pizzeria Une. 2811 McKinney Ave. 855-0011. 4002 Belt Line, Addison. 991-8181. Inexpensive to mod-
Pomodoro. 2320 Cedar Springs. 871-1924. Inexpensive to moderate.
Ristorante Savino. 2929 N. Henderson. 826-7804. Moderate to expensive.
Rodolfo’s. 5916 Royal Une. 368-5039. Inexpensive to moderate.
Romano’s Macaroni Grill. 4535 Belt Line, Addison. 386-3831. 3858 Northwest Hwy. 265-0770. Moderate.
RutFfino’s. 11661 Preston, Suite 153. 890-7555. Moderate.
Rugggeri’s. 2911 Routh St. 871-7377. Moderate to expensive.
Scuro. 2713 Elm St. 741-01II. Moderate.
Sfuzzi. 2504 McKinney Ave. 871-2606. 15101 Addison Road, Addison. 960-2606. Moderate.
Sweet Basil. 7610 Midway. 733-1500. Moderate.
311 Lombardi’s. 311 Market 747-0322. Moderate to expensive.
Anzu. 4620 Mi Kinney Ave. 526-7398. Moderate to expensive.
Fuji-Ya. 13050 Coit. 690-8396. Inexpensive to moderate.
Hana Japanese Restaurant. 14865 Inwood. 991-8322. Moderate.
Hibachi-Ya Japanese Steak House. 3850 W. Northwest Hw4-, Suite 510. 350-1110. Inexpensive.
Mr. Sushi. 48
Natkamoto Japanese Cuisine. 3309 N. Central Expwy.. Suite 360, Plano. 881-0328. Moderate.
Shinano Japanese Restaurant. 8830 Spring Valley. 644-1436. Moderate.
Shogun of Japan. 5738 Cedar Springs. 351-2281. 3455 N. Belt Line, lrving. 594-6911. Moderate.
Sushi Yama. 8989 Forest Lane, Suite 112. 234-3474. Inexpensive to moderate.
Kobawoo. 3109 Inwood. 351-6922. Moderate.
Korea Hometown. 10560 Walnut. 272-9909. Inexpensive to moderate.
Adelmo’s. 4537 Cole. 559-0325. Moderate.
Blind Lemon. 2805 Main St. 939-0202. Inexpensive to moderate.
L’Entrecote. Loews Anatole Hole], 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 761-7410. Very expensive.
Main St. News. 2934 Main St. 746-2934. Inexpensive to moderate.
Sambuca. 2618 Elm St. 744-0820. Moderate.
Avili, s. 4714 Maple. 520-2700. Inexpensive.
Balderas Tex Mex Restaurant. 3851 Cedar Springs, #A. 526-2180. Inexpensive to moderate.
Blue Goose Cantina. 2905 Greenville Ave. 823-6786. Moderate.
Caliente. 6881 Greenville Ave. 369-8600. Moderate.
Cantina Laredo. 4546 Belt Line. Addison. 458-0962. 8121 Walnut Hill. 987-9192. Moderate.
Chuy’s. 211 N. Record. 747-2838. Moderate.
Cuquita’s. 2326 N. Henderson. 823-1859. Inexpensive to moderate.
Desperados. 4818 Greenville Ave. 363-1850. Inexpensive to moderate.
Eduardo’s Aca y Alla. 2914 Main. 748-7140. Moderate.
El Arroyo. 7402 Greenville Ave., Suite 202. 363-4464, Inexpensive.
El Ranchito. 610 W. Jefferson. 946-4238. Inexpensive to moderate.
Flamingo Joe’s. 2712 Main. 748-6065. Inexpensive to moderate.
Javier’s. 4912 Cole. 521 -4211. Expensive.
La Calle Doce. 415 W. 12th. 941-4304. Inexpensive to moderate.
Las Cazuelas. 4933 Columbia. 827-1889. Inexpensive.
La Suprema Tortilleria. 7630 Military Pkwy. (at Loop 12). 388-1244. Inexpensive.
Los Vaqueras. 6615 Snider Plaza. 361-9885. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mario & Alberto. S.W. comer of LBJ Frwy. and Preston, Suite 425. 980-7296. Moderate.
Mario’s Chiquita. 4514 Travis, Suite 105. 521-0721. 221 W. Parker, Sui(e400, Piano. 423-2977. Moderate.
The Martinez Cafe. Preston Park Village. 1900 Preston, Piano. 964-7898. Inexpensive.
Mattito’s Cafe Mexicano. 4311 Oak Lawn Ave. 526-8181. Inexpensive to moderate.
Matt’s Rancho Martinez Mexican Restaurant. 6312 La Vista. 823-5517. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mercado Juarez. 1901 W. Northwest Hwy. 556-0796. 4050 Belt Line, Addison. 458-2145. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mia’s. 4322 Lemmon Ave. 526-1020. Inexpensive.
Mi Casa Tex Mex Restaurant. 8301 Westchester. 890-9939. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mi Cocina. 11661 Preston, Suite 138. 265-7704. Inexpensive.
Primo’s. 3309 McKinney Ave. 520-3303. Inexpensive to moderate.
Uncle Julio’s. 7557 Greenville Ave. 987-9900. 4125 Lemmon. 520-6620. Moderate.
Ali Baba. 1905 Greenville Ave. 823-8235. Inexpensive.
Barry’s Sandwich Shop. 6710 Snider Plaza. 750-0330. Inexpensive.
Agnew’s Natural Grill. 3011 Routh St. 720-3900. Moderate to expensive.
Bluebonnet Cafe & Deli. 2218 Greenville Ave. 828-0052. Inexpensive.
Actuelle. 500 Crescent Court, Suite 165. 855-0440. Expensive.
Aristocrat Hotel Bar & Grill. 1933 Main. 741 7700. Moderate to expensive.
Avner’s. 2515 Mc Kinney Ave. 953-0426. Moderate.
Beau Nash. 400 Crescent Court in the Hotel Crescent Court. 871-3200. Moderate to expensive.
The Bronx. 3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Inexpensive to moderate.
Buffalo Club. 2800 Routh St., Suite 125, in the Quadrangle. 220-2465. Moderate to expensive.
By George! 2900 Greenville Ave. 821-1538. Moderate.
Cafe 450. 1802 Greenville Ave. 826-6229. Moderate.
Chaplin’s. 1928 Greenville Ave. 823-3300. Moderate to expensive.
City Cafe. 5757 Lovers Lane. 351-2233. Moderate.
The Conservatory. 400 Crescent Court in the Hotel Crescent Court. 871-3242. Very expensive.
Crockett’s. Doubletree Hotel at Lincoln Center, 5410 LBJ Frwy. 701-5160. Expensive.
Dakota’s. 600 N. Akard. 740-4001. Moderate to expensive.
Deep Blum Cafe. 2706 Elm St. 741-9012. Moderate to expensive.
Dover’s Grille. Doubletree Hotel at Park West, 1590 LBJ Frwy. 8694300. Moderate to expensive.
Dream Cafe. 2800 Routh St., Suite 170, in the Quadrangle. 954-0486. Inexpensive.
Eighteen-O-One at the Dallas World Aquarium. 1801 North Griffin. 720-2224. Moderate to expensive.
Gershwin’s. 8442 Walnut Hill at Greenville Ave. 373-7171. Moderate to expensive.
Huntington’s. 13340 Dallas Pkwy. in the Westin. 851-2882. Expensive to very expensive.
Kathleen’s Art Cafe. 4424 Lovers Lane. 691-2355. Moderate to expensive.
Landmark Cafe. Melrose Hotel, 3015 Oak Lawn. 521-5151. Expensive.
Laurels. Sheraton Park Central Hotel, 12720 Merit Drive, off Coit near LBJ Frwy. 851-2021. Expensive.
The Mansion on Turtle Creek. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 559-2100. Very expensive.
Nana Grill. Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 761-7470. Expensive to very expensive.
Natchez. 2810 N. Henderson. 821-4552. Moderate.
Parigi. 3311 Oak Lawn. 521-0295. Moderate to expensive.
The Pyramid Room. 1717 N. Akard in the Fairmont Hotel. 720-5249. Very expensive.
Quadrangle Grille. 2800 Routh St., Suite 180, in the Quadrangle. 979-9022. Moderate.
St. Michael’s Alley. Valley View Square, LBJ and Preston (northeast quadrant). 980-4567. Inexpensive.
650 North. 650 N. Pearl. 855-1708. Expensive.
Tillman’s Corner. 324 W. Seventh. 942-0988. Moderate to expensive.
Atlantic Cafe. 14866 Montfort. Addison. 960-2233. Moderate to expensive.
Aw Shucks. 3601 Greenville Ave. 821-9449. Inexpensive.
Cafe Pacific. 24 Highland Park Village. 526-1170. Expensive.
Dinger’s Catfish Cafe. 8989 Forest Lane. 235-3251. Inexpensive.
Fishmonger’s Seafood Market and Cafe. 1915 N. Central Expwy., Suite 600, Piano. 423-3699. Moderate.
Hampton’s. Preston Center. 8411 Preston, Berkshire Court. 739-3474. Moderate.
Jaxx Cafe. 14925 Midway Road at Beltway in Addison. 458-7888. Moderate.
Jozefs Seafood Restaurant. 2719 McKinney Ave. 954-0407. Moderate to expensive.
Moby Great Seafood & Grille. 4514 Travis, Suite 201 in Travis Walk. 522-6797. Inexpensive.
Newport’s Seafood. 703 McKinney Ave. in The Brewery. 954-0220. Expensive.
S&D Oyster Company. 270! McKinney Ave. 880-01J J. Inexpensive to moderate.
Yoli’s. 9220 Skillman, Suite 124. 341-3533. Inexpensive
Aransas Pass. 2912 Henderson. 827-8650. Moderate to expensive.
Baby Rout h. 2708 Routh St. 871-2345. Moderate to expensive.
Blue Mesa Grill. 5100 Bell Line at Dallas Parkway in Sakowitz Village, Suite 500. 934-0165. Inexpensive to moderate.
Cafe Society. 4514 Travis, Suite 133.528-6543. Inexpensive to moderate.
Cisco Grill. 6630 Snider Plaza. 363-9506. Inexpensive.
Loma Luna Cafe. 820! Preston, Suite 100 (al Sherry Lane). 691-1552. Moderate.
The Promenade. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. in The Mansion on Turtle Creek. 559-2100. Moderate to expensive.
Sam’s Cafe. 100 Crescent Court, Suite 100. 855-2233. Moderate to expensive.
Zuma. 2701 Stemmons Frwy. 631-3050. Moderate.
Cafe Madrid. 4501 Travis. 528-1731. Inexpensive to moderate.
White Swan Cafe. 2307 Abrams. 824-8122. Moderate.
Arthur’s. 8350 N. Central Expwy., Campbell Centre. Suite M 1000. 361-8833. Expensive.
The Butcher Shop Steakhouse. 808 Munger, off Lamar. 720-1032. Moderate.
Del Frisco’s. 4300 Lemmon Ave. 526-9811. Expensive.
Lawry’s The Prime Rib. 3008 Maple. 521-7777. Moderate to expensive.
Morton’s of Chicago. 501 Elm. 741-2277. Expensive.
Old San Francisco Steakhouse. 10965 Composite (off Walnut Hill, east of 1-35). 357-0484. Moderate to expensive.
The Palm. 701 Ross. 698-0470. Very expensive.
Ruth’s Chris Steak House. 5922 Cedar Springs. 902-8080. Expensive.
Al’s New York Style Deli. 3301 Oak Lawn, Suite A (entrance on Hall). 522-3354. Inexpensive.
Bagel Emporium. 7522 Campbell. 248-0608. Inexpensive.
Bagelstein’s. 8104 Spring Valley. 234-3787. Inexpensive to moderate.
City Cafe To Go. 5757 W. Lovers Lane. 351-3366. Moderate.
City Market. 2001 Ross, Trammell Crow Center. Suite 200. 979-2696. Inexpensive.
Crescent Gourmet. 400 Crescent Court. 871-3223. Inexpensive to moderate.
Dell-News. 500 Crescent Court. 922-DEL1. 15775 Hillcrest. 392-DELI. Inexpensive to moderate.
The Deli Planet. 4514 Travis. No. 122.520-0630. Inexpensive.
Gilbert’s New York Delicatessen. 127 Preston Forest Village. 373-3333. Inexpensive to moderate.
Henk’s European Deli. 5811 Blackwell Street. 987-9090. Inexpensive to moderate.
Marty’s. 3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070. Moderate.
Pizza House. 4130 Gaston. 827-8808. Inexpensive.
Polio Bueno. 3438 Samuel) Blvd. 828-0645. Inexpensive.
Preizler’s Delicatessen. 116 Preston Valley Shopping Center at LBJ. 458-8896. Inexpensive to moderate.
Tommaso’s Fresh Pasta. 5365 Spring Valley, Suite 158, at Montfort. 991-4040. Inexpensive to moderate
Bangkok City. 4301 Bryan at Peak. S24-6200. Inexpensive to moderate.
Royal Thai. 5500 Greenville Ave., #802 in Old Town. 691-3555. Moderate.
Thai Lanna. 1490 W. Spring Valley. Richardson. 690-3637. Moderate.
Thai Lotus. 3851-D Cedar Springs. 520-9385, Inexpensive.
Thai Nipa. 4315 Lemmon Ave. 526-6179. Inexpensive
Thai Siam. 9560 Skillman. 341-5835. Inexpensive.
Thai Soon. 2018 Greenville Ave. 821-7666. Inexpensive.
Thai Taste. 4501 Cole. 521-3513. Moderate.
Thai-Thai. 1731 Greenville Ave. 828-9795. Inexpensive.
Toy’s Cafe. 4422-B Lemmon Ave. 528-7233. Inexpensive to moderate.
Arc en Ciel. 3555 W. Walnut, Garland. 272-2188. inexpensive to moderate.
East Wind. 2711 Elm St. 745-5554. Inexpensive to moderate.
Pearl of the Orient. 500 Crescent Court, Suite 148. 220-9110. Expensive,
LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES
Bistro Bagatelle. (French) 406 W. Abrams. Arlington. Metro 817-261-0488. Moderate to expensive.
Cacharel. (French) Brookhollow Two. 2221 E. Lamar, Suite 910, Arlington. Metro 817-640-9981, Expensive.
China Terrace. (Chinese) 5435 N. Mac-Arthur, Irving. 550-1113. Inexpensive to moderate.
Esparza’s. (Mexican) 124 E. Worth St.. Grapevine. Metro 817-48 ! -4668. Inexpensive.
Caspar’s. (New American) 150 S. Denton Tap Road, Coppell. 393-5152. Expensive.
Jinbeh. (Japanese) 301 E. Lax Colinas Blvd., Suite 301, Irving. 869-4011. Moderate.
La Margarita. (Mexican) 3636 N. Belt Line, Irving. 570-1137. Inexpensive to moderate.
La Suprema. (Mexican) 6311 N. O’Connor, Irving. 506-0988. Moderate.
Via Real. (Mexican) 4020 N. MacArthur, Irving. 255-0064. Moderate to expensive.
Benito’s. (Mexican) 1450 W. Magnolia. (817) 332-8633. Inexpensive.
Byblos. (Middle Eastern) 1406 North Main. (817) 625-9667. Inexpensive to moderate.
Cafe Aspen. (New American) 3416 W. Seventh. (817) 877-0838. Moderate to expensive.
Kincaid’s. (Burgers) 4901 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 732-2881. Inexpensive.
Hedary’s. (Lebanese) 3308 Fairfield off Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-6961. Moderate.
Le Chardonnay. (French) 2443 Forest Park Blvd. (817) 926-5622. Moderate to expensive.
Michaels. (New American) 3413 W. Seventh. (817) 877-3413. Moderate to expensive.
Reflections. (New American) The Worthington Hotel. 200 Main. (817) 870-1000. Expensive.
Ristorante La Piazza. (Italian) 3431 W. Seventh. (817) 334-0000. Moderate to expensive.
Saint Emilion. (French) 3617 W. Seventh. (817) 737-2781. Moderate to expensive.
Tejano Mexican Cuisine. (Mexican) 5716 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 737-7201. Inexpensive to moderate.
Tours Restaurant. (New American) 3500 W. Seventh. (817) 870-1672. Moderate to expensive.
TASTING THE TOWN