RESTAURANTS & BARS

RECIPE

POLLO CON GARLIC is one of the Tog-nis’ favorite recipes. Combine 3 tablespoons olive oil; 1 large fryer chicken, disjointed; 2 large garlic cloves; 1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary; 1/2 cup vinegar, divided; salt and pepper. In deep skillet, heat oil and brown chicken over high heat, turning until crisp on ell sides. Sprinkle garlic and rosemary over chicken. Stir in 1/4 cup vinegar, cover, and simmer approximately 10 minutes over medium heat. Remove cover, add remaining 1/4 cup vinegar, and turn to high heat until done. Add salt and pepper to taste.



A MOVEABLE FEAST

PEOPLE The Tognis don’t dinequite like ordinary families. A viewfrom their linen-spread table couldinclude a glimpse of the door to theirgourmet kitchen-which happens tobe inside a white Mercedes truck.Or you might see a cage in whichthree adolescent tigers nap behindbars. Your host would be FlavioTogni, fourth-generation scion ofEurope’s premier circus family and,at 30, Ringling Brothers-Barnum &Bailey’s newest superstar animal trainer/showman. He, his wife, and a half-dozen otherperforming Tognis travel with an array oftrained elephants, horses, and tigers, even awhite rhino. Their animals are well fed, and soare the Tognis, whose kitchen on wheels is aunique perk; while everyone else eats in thecompany cafeteria, Flavio and wife, Adela,scour markets in every town they play, seekingingredients for the simple, hearty dishes thattaste of their native Italy. -Betty Cook

Catch Flavio Togni and Ringling Brothers in action at Tarrant County Convention Center in Fort Worth, July 9-14, and Reunion Arena in Dallas, July 16-28.

Sushi, Texas Style



ON THE ROAD You might not believe it if you chanced upon it-a Japanese restaurant in deep South Dallas? Nowhere near the Asian centers of the Metroplex? Doing brisk business as a popular hangout of the area’s casual shorts-and-sneakers family trade, sushi and all? The answer is yes, yes, and yes-during the four years since it opened its strip-center doors on the border of Red Bird Mall. Toshio’s Taste of Japan clearly has won a favored position. The name hints at the reason: Toshio’s tempers its offerings to Western tastes. Some of its sushi is cooked-one Texas sushi, for instance, involves roast beef. Delectably fresh, too, if the seaweed-wrapped tuna and scallop versions we sampled are typical. The rest of the menu’s not foreign at all to Texas tongues: Chicken flame-broiled and sauce-glazed is barbecue, even if it’s sliced thin, threaded on skewers, and called Yakitori. Giant shrimp and vegetables dipped in fine batter and deep-fried are down-home familiar, too, whether you’ve ever heard of tempura or not. And prices here translate as bargains in any language-whole dinners range downward from $8, 95.

3917 W. Camp Wisdom Road, Suite103. 298-0390, -Betty Cook

The Chill is On



TREATS Sno-balls in July-the coldest snack we know. You can only get a cool-down like this at Bobby’s Sno-Ball Dessert and News Stand in Snider Plaza; unless you’ve (foolishly) spent time in New Orleans in the summertime, where they’re a street corner tradition, chances are you’ve tasted nothing like them.

A cup of powdered ice is soaked in sweet, neon-bright syrups-finer than Sno-Kones, more intense than ice cream, Sno-balls come in 25 flavors-everything from grape and best-selling chocolate to a mystery mix called nectar cream. If you’re feeling extravagant, top it with cream or sweetened condensed milk. (If you don’t, the 8 oz. treat only costs you 100 calories. ) On midsummer days, the line-mostly kids with money clutched in their hot hands-stretches from the little counter out to the street.

Owner Bobby Martin has a real line on what kids like-he was an 18-year-old high-school graduate when he started the business two years ago. But the shop has grown with its owner-this year Martin added a newsstand, a selection of coffees and cappuccinos, and Ben & Jerry’s all-natural, politically correct ice cream, including the “Peace Pop, ” a chocolate-covered bar of “Cherry Garcia” ice cream. Very cool.

Bobby’s Sno-Ball Dessert and News Stand. 3400 Rosedale and Hillcrest in Snider Plaza. 696-0607.

-Mary Brown Malouf

CHEAP EATS



VIVA MARGARITAS!

Sno-Kone loving kids grow up Into adults who favor frozen margaritas-naturally enough, when you consider that both kinds of frosty slush are among Nature’s nicest ways to air-condition your Innards in the good ol’ summertime. Get yours here:

Blue Mesa Grill, true to its name, serves a version of ounces of cerulean splendor that owe their hue to blue curacao, their kick to tequila. 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy., Addison. $4. 95.

Javier’s top-shelf triumph sets an unlmwith fresh lime and Cuervo Gold heaped, as it deserves, in an elegant tall-stemmed 12-ounce goblet. For serious margarita drinkers only. 4912 Cole. $4. 75.

Snuffer’s slakes the food fans with the Meltdown, a heady lowed with Grand Marnier and served in a heavy frosted mug. 3526 Greenville Ave. and 14910 Midway Road, Addison. $4. 95.

The Library at the Melrose Hotel charges more than most, but delivers quality to match-the FM here is fresh-blended to order, as smooth as the setting and the vocals of pianist W. T. Grier, evenings here. 3O15 Oak Lawn. $5. 75.

Mariano’s, where the whole summer notion of frozen margaritas started 20 years ago, offers half-a-dozen variations, up (or down) to a fruit-whizzed dessert-smoothie version. We’ll take the Original, made, as they all are here, with gold tequila. 5500 Greenville Ave. $3. 25.

-Betty Cook

NEW RESTAURANTS



Son of Sonny Bryan’s

SONNY BRYAN’S SMOKEHOUSE Heresy! Abomination! Anathema! Everybody knows Sonny Bryan’s isn’t supposed to be open past 2: 30 in the afternoon! To serve barbecued chicken or (shudder!) baked potatoes! To be comfortable, clean, and even mildly attractive! To accept credit cards! And, to top off this desecration of a Dallas civic monument, it certainly isn’t supposed to be located in the touristy West End! One might be forced to conclude that the folks who bought out Sonny Bryan’s business and good name have gone and sold out.

But consider that, in its early months at least, the food is better at the West End Sonny Bryan’s than it has been for years at the funky original Inwood location. The big, meaty, hickory-rich ribs are definitive barbecue, and the brisket equals the stuff sold in all those semilegendary markets in tiny towns in Central Texas that nobody can ever find. The new barbecued chicken tops any you will have encountered previously in a commercial setting, and the sauce remains the treasured, vinegary original that Sonny Bryan’s has always been known for.

And, rest assured, this new Sonny’s, for us aging wimps who have become fatigued with the rigors of worshipping the great god Barbecue at the old place, really hasn’t gone completely soft. It isn’t too fancy. If there was anybody like an interior decorator involved in designing it, his or her efforts don’t really show. In fact, if you come at a not-too-busy time and take a tour of the beautiful mechanized smoker in the basement, you will notice that the downstairs private party room is downright, well, funky. (And clean. True-blue Sonny’s aficionados will miss the napkins and sandwich bags on the floor. They might be placated, however, by the school desks-like the only seating at the original location-that you find in the patio entryway to the new restaurant. )

We confess that we altogether like the new Sonny’s. The barbecue is great. The onion rings and fried pies are good enough. Now, if only someone could persuade the new powers that be around here to cook their own pinto beans instead of ineffectually doctoring up canned ones, and if they could learn to make a really good potato salad, Sonny Bryan’s could take its rightful place as the greatest barbecue restaurant in creation and a genuine populist shrine of Texas culture. 302 N. Market. 744-1610. Mon. -Thur. 11 a. m. -10 p. m., Fri. -Sat. 11 a. m. -11 p. m., Sun. noon-8 p. m. All credit cards. Inexpensive.

-W. L. Taitte

Pasta Perfect



MI PIACI Introductory hoopla regarding Mi Piaci pushed every one of my cynic buttons: an authentic ristorante Italiano without a single Italian name in its management group? Oh, come on.

Oh, well, do. Two visits later, I can unreservedly describe Mi Piaci as one of the more delightful additions to this city’s upscale dining scene since the heydays of the Eighties. And if my second visit’s Italian-traveled companion can be believed, the fare is not only fine but authentic as claimed.

Make that mostly fine-a few glitches crept in. Tapenade-spread toast points served with elegant smoked salmon carpaccio were shingle-stiff, either over-ovened or too-long prepared. The bouquet of vegetables served with entrées was fresh and pretty one visit, tired and overcooked the next. Polenta, both grilled with Gorgonzola cheese as an appetizer (from the bar menu) and in a fruit-garnished cake as dessert, was dry and tasteless- although, to be fair, our alert waiter was quick to remove the latter from table and check after inquiring as to why it hadn’t been eaten.

Two fresh, house-made pastas we tried were educational experiences in themselves. Tonnarelli, described as square-cut noodles, was spaghettilike and pleasant, complemented with endive, radicchio, and smoked bacon; but the serving was modest, and its entrée-level price ($12. 95) misled a first-visit companion into ordering it as a main dish and ending the meal hungry. Fettuccine al limone, exquisitely lemon-zested, truly a pasta perfect, cost just over half as much- but asking to share it as a side dish for two added three dollars to the check. Conclusions: Pasta courses here are exactly that, and not main dishes; and sharing an order costs less if you do it yourself.

For all that, both dinners’ high points outweighed flaws. Grilled cremini mushrooms struck an earthy balance against delicately bitter mixed greens flung with mellow Romano shavings. Tender rounds of buffalo mozzarella and ripe tomato, interlaced with vast basil leaves, were poetry on plate and palate. Risotto with shrimp, clams, and calamari was a divine infusion of slow-simmered flavors.

Meat portions were huge-roast pork loin, all the homier for being stratified with fat, was moist and hearty; ditto the lean lamb shank, wine-braised and laid on a true-to-the-provinces bed of chickpeas. Beef filet was a transcendent piece of work, a perfect cut, rosy-hearted and scented with wine and fennel seeds.

Tiramisu was beautiful but bland, its liqueur and espresso accents undetectable; best dessert was a fresh-as-sunshine scoop of tart lemon ice, a Sicilian classic. Espresso was bracing, and Mi Piaci is to be commended for serving it correctly, sans the tacky little lemon curl with which so many places insult the brew.

Commendable, too, is the setting-a multilevel arrangement of spaces subtly lit by opalescent globes floating among sinuously sculpted columns. Plaster walls are warmed with tawny Old Country photographs; an arching expanse of glass overlooks a placid pond. Tables are wittily centered with crystal vases, each holding a single perfect leek-“our Italian orchid, ” our waiter called it. The same waiter comped us after dinner with tiny glasses of grappa to atone for the dry polenta dessert; the fiery liquor was an astonishingly effective digestive, and several varieties are included on the all-Italian wine list, which is stellar but shockingly pricey.

About the non-Italian management mentioned earlier: Mi Piaci is the brainchild of Terntable Restaurant Management, Inc.The principals are Janet Colgin, JeffBarker, Jimmy Fell, and chef PaulBlackerby, all Dakota’s alumni whose firstItalian venture was Veni Vidi Vici inAtlanta. The authenticity here, as there, isowed to the influence of Marcella Hazan,Italian cookbook author and consultant,whose recipes are replicated by Mi Piacichef Helmut Weseman. Faithfully, it seemedto me. 14854 Montfort. 934-8424. LunchMon. -Fri. 11: 30-2: 30; dinner Mon. -Sat. 5-11,Sun. 5-10. All credit cards. Moderate toexpensive. -Betty Cook



A New Boite in Town

Blind lemon All Deep Ellum boites by definition strive for hipness, but this self-proclaimed “urban bar and bistro” strikes further into the neighborhood scene than any of the other ambitious restaurants thereabouts. Bikers stare aggressively from one table, while at another shaven-headed aesthetes consort with those who ought to be models (if they aren’t in fact). Let’s face it, unless you are young or New Wave or both, you probably won’t feel as though you fit in.

The decor looks as though it might hang on the wall of one of our farther-out avant-garde art galleries (or be one of them). It’s basically your urban bombed-out look. The industrial light fixtures cast a dim florescent glare that no doubt inspired the restaurant’s name: The light is a sick-looking lemon yellow, and it’s dusky enough to drive anyone blind after a while.

For those to whom the setting appeals, the food so far-a vaguely Mediterranean combination of Italian and French-is promising but spotty. The French onion soup stands out among local versions of this classic, and the chickory frisee salad, adorned with lots of bits of what seemed to be genuine Roquefort, manages to be both tasty and original. All three pizzette-with spinach and Gorgonzola, with mushrooms, and with mozzarella and pesto-are scrumptuous, and bargains at $5.

Pastas (ravioli in an interesting broth-based Roma tomato en Brodo and tagliatelle with tomato and ricotta) stand out among the main dishes. Recipes for the fish and flesh dishes seem enterprising enough; the problem is in the execution. Roasted chicken with garlic and lemon thyme, steak au poivre, a daily special of fresh tuna in a buttery sauce with capers, even a cheeseburger all arrived at the table dry and overcooked. Perhaps with time the kitchen will manage the actual cooking better. Desserts bring similarly mixed results. The flourless chocolate cake with raspberry sauce is a superb choice for those who like their chocolate assertive, almostbitter, and their fruit sauces tangy. But theapple tart, though its center tasted of firm,lush fruit, suffered from a chewy, tastelesscrust. 2805 Main. 939-0202. Mon. -Thur. 11a. m. -2 a. m., Fri. -Sat. 11 a. m, -4 a. m. Allcredit cards. Moderate. -W. L. T.



A Thief of Hearts

ALI BABA As my friends (or anyone who reads these reviews) knows, I take a special interest in Middle Eastern cooking; Lebanese food is the comfort food of my married family-what Mom made when you were coming home for a visit-and I’ve adopted it as an alternative to my own mother’s homecoming meal of roast lamb and potatoes. No one makes it like Mama can, but Ali Baba, a pocket-sized cafe recently opened next to World Wide Food on lower Greenville, comes close.

With a light retsina wine, the thyme pie-rounds of soft pita with sesame seeds and thyme-provided food for thought while perusing the menu. (Over the course of several visits, I’ve sampled nearly everything on the menu, so at this point, the perusal is just an excuse to order more thyme pie. )

Without exception, this is the best hummus I’ve had outside the family-garlicky and smooth and rich with olive oil. The traditional maza plate held several kinds of olives, baba ganough (a roast eggplant dip), soft rice-filled grape leaves, and tangy tabouleh that was mostly parsley. Half a salt-crusted, golden roast chicken was folded inside a pita and served with “garlic mashed potatoes’-actually a scoop of nearly pure puréed garlic. The eye-watering spread also came with a delicious chicken sandwich filled with lettuce, tumeric-coated chicken chunks, onions, and tomatoes. A gyros sandwich was thinly sliced, lightly spiced, and sided with the same garnishes. Kibbi-a big fried tennis ball of meat and wheat filled with sautéed onions, almonds, and pine nuts-was especially good with a squeeze of lemon. Kebob shish, ground beef spiced with onions and thyme, was rolled into a hot dog served on pita with mixed rice and vermicelli on the side; falafel was formed into fried doughnuts and came with ultramild tahini (sesame) sauce as well as more pita.

Travel posters on the wall and Middle Eastern brass on the bar are the only decorative touches to this plain cafe, but belly dancers on video and snake charmer’s music add what action the views of lively lower Greenville lack, and the food itself is all the atmosphere you need. 1905 Greenville Ave. 823-8235. Lunch, Mon. -Sat. 11-4; dinner, Mon. -Thur. 5: 30-10, Fri. – Sat.5: 30-11; open Sunday 11-9. All credit cards.Inexpensive. -Mary Brown Malouf



Southern Italian Style



LA PIAZZA Fort Worth’s uptown “in” crowd is in love en masse with Vito Ciraci’s new West Side restaurant. And with good reason: In opening his own place, the former Fort Worth Club general manager has combined his experience, his resources, and his Southern Italian roots to offer a dining experience in which small, happy shocks of discovery enlarge upon major satisfaction.

In common with most chic Italian eateries, for instance, patrons are greeted with fine bread (Massimo da Milano’s, in this case) and virgin olive oil in which to dip it. Ciraci one-ups the others, though: His olive oil, served in little squat cruets, is headily infused with fresh peppers, garlic, and herbs, and is brought with a bowl of pungently marinated Sicilian olives for irresistible nibbling.

Again. La Piazza’s menu is a plainly stated listing of familiar Italian dishes, but, as executed by chef Salvo Pampallona (formerly with Chianti in Dallas), hardly a dish we sampled failed to deliver some deliciously subtle permutation. One day’s soup, for example, stracciatella alla Fiorentina, swirled fresh spinach leaves among egg threads and pasta strands in chicken broth to deliver a delicately enhanced version of the classic zuppa. When another day’s vegetable with entrees was fennel bulb, succulently roasted and bathed in cream sauce, the fennel greens were incorporated in a special appetizer involving a small spoon-shaped pasta, black olives, and basil, with a muted anchovy presence. The resulting dish, a near-religious experience, was not the prettiest pasta presentation I’ve ever seen-just the best I can remember tasting lately.

The thrift that paid off so well in that instance became parsimony in carpaccio alla Toscana: Not only were the ribbons of raw beef so thin they had to be literally scraped from the plate, but their parmigiano garnish was limited to four rather leathery shavings of the cheese-a disappointment. The only other notable failure, a seafood risotto, was undercooked, awash in a soupy broth that tasted more of tomato than of the expected fish stock.

Stellar delights included slim penne pasta tubes with walnuts in a richly creamy Gorgonzola sauce, centered with a heap of chopped tomato; an enormous veal chop, barely overgrilled but splendidly complemented with nutty porcini mushrooms; red snapper Livornese, a tender fillet topped with a blanket of tomato, onion, capers, parsley, and basil that looked heavy but tasted marvelous.

Best desserts were a tiramisu of transcendent delicacy and zabaglione with Grand Marnier (for two), an outrageously frothy wonder we spooned from stemmed flutes feeling like children reveling in a grown-up sin. Service makes you feel a little childlike, too-Ciraci runs his place with a certain patriarchal sternness, and his staff’s warm vigilance knows no bounds. But the ambience is sunny and the decor so inviting, with its pale walls, deep teal carpet, black chairs, and snowy linens, that I felt more comfortably cosseted than confined by such constant attention. 3431 West Seventh, Fort Worth. (817) 334-0000. Lunch Mon. -Fri. 11: 30-2: 30; dinner Mon. -Thur. 5: 30-10, Fri. -Sat. 5: 30-11. MC, V. Moderate to expensive. -B. C.



D REVISITS



BURGERS



D Revisits 8. 0. The 8. 0 is a fun place to go, whether you sit out on Che patio by the fountain or in the restaurant by the Rizzie And, if you go early in the evening and order from the blackboard, you’ll be very happy with your food. Not that the basic 8. 0 burger isn’t good-it is, and we especially like the cross-cut, house-made potato chips-but sometimes this very cool hangout can seem like a greasy spoon (with canola oil instead of grease) unless you try the specials dreamed up by the joint’s new corporate chef. Shaun Harper (in charge of both the Houston and Dallas locations). Smoked chicken tamales with roast tomato salsa were excellent, the masa mixed with chipotle for extra-hot smoke flavor, and white strips of smoked chicken laid over the top as garnish. The shrimp roll was one of the best I’ve had, in or out of an Oriental eatery, and makes a meal when orderedwith the Thai-style crab salad, a semicomposed plate of crabmeal and greens with a cinnamon-basil vinaigrette. Now, ifthe cute but dingbat service could be shaped up, the 8. 0would be a real restaurant instead of just a bar with food.2800 Routh St., 979-0880. Inexpensive. -M. B. M.



CHINESE



D Revisits First Chinese BBQ. On a recent visit, the stir-fried dishes didn’t seem quite as outstanding as usual. But the Chinese barbecue is still the best in town. Try ordering a split platter mixing the roast duck with either the roast pork or the chicken. The meat arrives at the table glistening with a last-minute splash of soy-based sauce and little clusters of the fennel-tasting spice star anise. Noodle dishes are bound to please here, too. The fresh shrimp wonton in broth would be hard to duplicate at another Chinese restaurant, and the stir-fried rice noodles Cantonese-style toss the pasta strands with shreds of ail sorts of flavorful things. III S. Greenville Ave., Richardson. 680-8216. Inexpensive.

-W. L. T.



FRENCH/CONTINENTAL



D Revisits Cafe Le Jardin. This former conveniencestore has been dolled up with a floral, impressionistic in-terior in pinky peach, teal, and green with lots of plants andMonet-style murals (“by Monica”) to carry out the Frenchgarden theme. The result is a pleasant, convenient place,serving uninspired but fair French fare. The really outstanding feature of our visit was the terrific piano player, RobertSanders, who played jazzy versions of almost everythingwith lots of style. Caesar salad was robust with a hint ofhorseradish in the garlicky dressing: the house salad ofmixed lettuce with a honey-sweetened dressing was alsogood. A special of sauteed sole topped with three firmshrimp was nearly drowned in a lemony, too-thick sauce andcame with angel hair pasta lopped with tomato sauce. Anicely rare ribeye was also swimming in sauce-a darkbrown mustard-brandy with mushrooms. Creme caramelbits of candied orange peel and red grapes on top wasa good dessert. Service was generally helpful and thoughtful, until the end when it took forever to get our check-butthere was a table of 10 all ordering flaming desserts so theone weeknight waiter was overloaded. 4900 McKinney Ave. 526-0570. Moderate. -M. B. M.



HOME COOKING



D Revisits Original Market Diner. Actually, thisisn’t quite the original, but a spiffed-up reissue of the placeowners Sam and Kathy Vergos used to run at the same loca-tion a decade ago. Very clean and dinert ike with its black-and-white decor and quasi-deco chrome, the cafe offersfresh home-cooked standards of the usual meat-and-two-vegvariety. The house specialty, a ribeye steak, delivered morequality than I’d have expected for its paltry $5. 25 tag-thewas thin, but tender and juicy, grilled to the requestedmedium rare rosiness. My companion’s grilled scrod wassurprisingly well cooked, moist and flaky, and the oversizedcup of homemade vegetable soup that preceded it was aproper melange of assorted seasonal produce. Blueberrycobbler was hot, crusty, and not too sweet under a meltingmantle of good vanilla ice cream; a Rocky Road cake ofwhich our waitress was especially proud was indeed a cutabove most diner fare-chopped pecans and baby marsh-mallows topped the dark chocolate richness of satin mousselayered on a stratum of tender cake. Iced tea was the realthing. a sturdy brew, and service was as homey as the foodthat attracts a steady crowd of breakfast-to-lunch regulars.4434 Harry Hines. 521-0992. Inexpensive. -B. C.



IRISH



D Revisits Tipperary Inn. The sign over the bar says “Faille go Tiobraid Arann”-Gaelic for “Welcome to Tip-perary. ” And both staff and ambience in this very real publike place certainly make you feel that way-service is T-shirt casual but prompt and willing; the bartender takes the time to draw your ordered brew properly, allowing the head to subside repeatedly until the authentic straight-sided tumbler is filled. While food here is secondary to the Celtic music that’s usually on the entertainment menu, a brief bill of fare offers satisfying succor to anyone nostalgic for Old Country food-Guinness beef stew is a hearty bowl of long-simmered beef tips, potato, and carrots, deeply flavorful. Its accompanying soda bread is rib-sticking stuff, dense little rolls that offer a chewy base for butter. Shepherd’s pie was lighter on the potatoes than other versions I’ve had, but itsbasic ground beef was moistly cooked, nicely seasoned, andsubstantial enough that we hadn’t room left for the Irishwhiskey cake we longed to try. Ah. well-next time. 2818Greenville Ave. 823-7167. Inexpensive. -B. C.



ITALIAN



D Revisits Pomodoro. In this brightly cacophonoussetting for celebrity sightings and fashion statements, onewould hardly expect to find some of this city’s most memorable Italian cuisine. One does, though, all the same-onour visit, bresaola con pompelmo was especially fine, therazored slices of sun-dried cured beef nicely gentled by thetender tartness of fresh grapefruit sections. Carpaccio exerted gentling influence in a marriage of uncooked beeftenderloin with a virile pizzaiola topping of fresh tomato,oregano, and ripe olives in olive oil. Risotto’s potential wasfully realized in a version accenting the delicately chewy ricewith creamy Gorgonzola and radicchio ribbons, and a Sardinian specialty called gnocchetti played slender twists ofpasta against robust sausage. Ossobuco. a day’s special entree, was undercooked to not-quite-tenderness, but the veal’sbath of sauce and vegetables was richly seasoned. And wewere never once allowed to run short of the great hot breadand herb-spiked chop of ripe tomato and olives that thisplace was among the first to introduce to Dallas diners. Thenoise level inside is as high as ever, but on cool evenings thepatio tables offer as serene a refuge as one could wish to find. 2520 Cedar Springs. 871-1924. Moderate. -B. C.



JAPANESE



D Revisits Shogun of Japan. Language difficultiescan be a problem here-especially if you’re trying to ferretout descriptions of dishes you haven’t tried. Our lust to sample authentic appetizers from Shogun’s lengthy list led us tosome surprises as well as rewards-baby whitefish on grateddaikon radish, for instance, was less delightful to our Occidental palates than a steamed crab dumpling of uncommondelicacy. Raw tuna diced on grated Japanese yam was pleasant, as much because of as in spite of the potato’s glutinousconsistency; but we had to admit we found the tuna moretoothsome on a sushi round of rice. Gyoza, though, werewonderful as ever. Japanese-style scallops were triumphantly sautéed in butter; fried soft-shell crabs were tiny treasuresof crispness, and huge cubes of silken tofu barely gilded withcrisp batter were celestial. We shouldn’t have tried all thisand dinners, too, but we did, and found a grilled salmon fillettoothsome and moist, its shrimp and vegetables tempuraproperly lacy-crisp. The beef strips in a Japanese box dinner were lean, rare, and nicely marinated, and another compartment’s raw fish assortment was immaculately fresh. Amix-up in ordering, owed to that pesky language barrier,caused our waitress to bring us two box dinners instead ofone. and in the confusion she somehow never delivered ourmiso soup. Still and all, the attitude of courtesy here is soprofound, and the food so prettily presented, Shogun is stillone of the city’s most simpatico settings for Japanese dining. 5738 Cedar Springs. 351-2281. Moderate. -B. C



MEXICAN



D Revisits Desperados. This maze of dining rooms,done up in the best old-fashioned Mexican style, with fauxadobe walls and strolling mariachis. has been a Dallasfavorite for more than a decade and still serves some excellent Mexican food with inventive and inexpensive variations. Regular Tex-Mex type dinners are good, but do try thespecial starred items-the same familiar flavors, only a little different. Desperado tacos were a kind of cross betweenchimichangas and tacos al carbon-the puffy fried flour tortillas filled with white cheese and folded over grilled beefwere a huge serving for one. A fiery stew of beef chunks wassimmered in a sauce of chipotle-a chili alternative cooledby the famous house margarita. 4818 Greenville Ave,363-1850. Inexpensive. -M. B. M.



NEW AMERICAN



D Revisits Nana Grill. This eagle’s loft atop the Loews Anatole has always offered Dallas’s most glorious restaurant view, and a genuinely cultivated peripatetic string quartet adds to the glamour, but only recently, under chef Ronald Rosenbaum, has the food matched the setting. The original New American/Southwestern concept has finally been fulfilled in dishes like the baked oysters with cilantro pesto- on the menu from the beginning, hut only now a triumph of subtly combined but assertive flavors to equal the original oysters Rockefeller at the best spots in New Orleans and tosurpass any other cooked oyster dish in Dallas. Other standouts are an appetizer of a chile relleno cooked with lobsterand goat cheese and a beef filet with a pancetta sauce. If yourentree doesn’t come with the garlic mashed potatoes, orderthem as a side dish-they’re as splendid as they are unusual.Superb, light-as-beignet apple fritters with maple walnut icecream and vanilla bean sauce end a meal on another giddyhigh note. Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Frwy.761-7470. Expensive la very expensive. -W. L. T.



SOUTHWESTERN



D Revisits Cisco Grill. This link café. serving mostly Snider Plaza customers and proprietors and the immediateneighborhood, is better than it has to be. It could probablydo a decent business serving a good grilled cheese sandwich; instead it serves some of the best, inexpensive foodaround, including probably my favorite grilled chicken sandwich in town (toasty bun, succulent breast meat, thick honeymustard), great gratin dishes of enchiladas, and wonderfulchicken tacos rolled in soft flour tortillas. The trio ofsalads-Mexican-style chicken, com, and guacamole-makes a surprisingly sophisticated plate of food in a placewhere you expect the best choices to be burgers and fries(both excellent here). Service is fast and friendly, too. 6630Snider Plaza. Inexpensive. -M. B. M.



SPANISH



D Revisits Cafe Madrid. This slim nook-a stand-upbar and a single line of tables-is the first Dallas spot tomake a go of offering tapas, the Spanish “small plates” thatcan do triple duty as either accompaniments for drinks, appetizers, or (in sufficient quantity) a whole meal. CafeMadrid lists a wide variety on its blackboards daily, ranging from unique Spanish victuals like Serrano ham or man-chego cheese to dolled-up canned goods like marinatedartichokes or white asparagus. Renowned Spanish specialties also appear at low prices as tapas here: tortilla espanola(a cold potato omelet), lomo adobado (roast pork loin),superbly juicy grilled quail. The blackboard spells out onespecial main dish daily. On our visit it was paella, in a goldenversion well flavored with pork and chorizo and laden withseafood, but also slightly oily and with rice cooked moresoftly than in the best versions of the dish. The service issomewhat distant, perhaps because of the language barrier,and can be haphazard-the Upas come out when they areready, not in any rational order, so unless you plan to stayawhile you might order only a few at a time. 4501 Travis.528-1731. Inexpensive to moderate. -W. L. T.



STEAKS



D Revisits Old San Francisco Steakhouse. The niche between the big chain steakhouses and the prestigiousones (hat offer heavy aged beef at heavy prices has alwaysbeen a precarious one for restaurants. Old San Francisco hassurvived by offering quality enough and a few gimmicksbesides. The beautiful young woman who swings higher andhigher until she kicks a bell isn’t likely to thrill anybodyolder than 10, but the piano duo who serenade are surprisingly subtle and musical. Obviously, the steaks are the thingto order here-they didn’t even have the stuffed lobster whenwe visited, and the chipped beefsteak was nothing special.The best hunk of beef is the Old San Francisco sirloin.massive and flavorful. For a single price, it is preceded bya bigger hunk of Swiss cheese and freshly baked bread, thena choice of salads (including a rather bland Caesar), and itarrives accompanied by an equally massive baked potato.fluffy and loaded up with additional cholesterol in the formof butter, cheese, sour cream, and real bacon. 10965 Composite. 357-0484. Moderate to expensive. -W. L. T.



RESTAURANTS

D RECOMMENDS



BARBECUE



Austin’s Barbecue. 2321 W. Illinois. 337-2242. Inexpensive.BR>Bator’s Ribs. 2724 Commerce. 748-5433. Inexpensive.

Peggy Sue BBQ. 6600 Snider Plaza. 987-9189. Inexpensive

Riscky’s Barbeque. 1701 N. Market, Suite 104. 742-7001. Inexpensive to moderate.

Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse. 2202 lnwood. 357-7120. Inexpensive.



BRITISH

Jennlvine. 3605 McKinney Ave. 528-6010. Moderate toexpensive.



BURGERS

Ball’s Hamburgers. 3404 Rankin in Snider Plaza. 373-1717. 4343 W. Northwest Hwy. 352-2525. Inexpensive.

Cardinal Puff’s. 4615 Greenville Ave. 369-1969. Inexpensive.

Chip’s. 4501 N, Central Expwy. 526-1092. Inexpensive.

Club Schmitz. 9661 Demon Drive. 902-7990. Inexpensive

Hard Rock Cafe. 2601 McKinney Ave. 855-0007. Moderate.

Prince of Hamburgers. 5200 Lemmon Ave. 526-9081. Inexpensive.

Snuffer’s. 3526 Greenville Ave. 826-6850. 14910 Midway. Addison. 991-8811. Inexpensive.

Texas Hamburgers. 1606 Market Center Blvd. 747-2222. Inexpensive.

CAJUN

Arcadia Bar & Grill. 2114 Greenville Ave. 821-1300. Inexpensive.

Atchafalaya River Cafe, 4440 Belt Line. Addison. 960-6878. Moderate.

Cafe Margaux. 4216 Oak Lawn. 520-1985. Moderate.

Crescent City Cafe. 2730 Commerce. 745-1900. Inexpensive.

Dodie’s Seafood Cafe. 2129 Greenville Ave. 821-8890 Inexpensive

Louisiana Purchase. 2901 N. Central Expwy, at Parker Road. Piano. 423-0533. Inexpensive to moderate.

Nate’s Seafood ft Steakhouse, 14951 Midway Road. Addison. 701-9622. Moderate.

Red’s Cajun Queen. 3701 W. Northwest Hwy. 350-9777. Inexpensive to moderate.



CENTRAL/SOUTH AMERICAN

Gloria’s Restaurant. 600 W. Davis. 948-3672. 9386 LBJ Frwy, at Abrams. 690-0622. Inexpensive.

Latinatnerica Cafe. 4436 Lemmon Ave. 526-4436. Moderate.



CHINESE

August Moon. 15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. 2300 N. Central Expwy. Plano. 881-0071. Moderate.

Cafe Panda. 7979 Inwood, Suite 121. 902-9500. Moderate.

Cathy’s Wok. 4010 W. 15th. Plano. 964-0406. Inexpensive.

Canton Chinese Restaurant. 400 N Greenville Ave., Suite 25, Richardson. 238-1863. Inexpensive.

Chef Wans. 9330 N. Central Expwy., United Artists Plaza. 373-1403. Moderate to expensive.

Chu’s Restaurant. 15080 Beltway. Addison. 387-1776. Moderate.

Crystal Pagoda. 4516 McKinney Ave. 526-3355. Moderate.

Elm St. Shang-Hal. 2807 Elm St. 651-8988. Moderate.

Grand Taipei. 216 W. Campbell. Richardson. 907-1027. Moderate.

Henry Chen. 3701 W. Northwest Hwy. 956-9560. Moderate.

Hong Kong Royale. 221 W. Polk, Richardson. 238-8888. Moderate to expensive.

May Dragon. 4848 Belt Line at Inwood. 392-9998. Moderate.

Restaurant Jasmine. 4002 Belt Line. Suite 200, Addison. 991-6867. Moderate.

Szechwan Pavilion. 8411 Preston. 3684303. 1152 N. Buckner. Suite 128, Casa Linda Plaza. Garland Road at Buckner. 321-7599. Inexpensive to moderate.

Taiwan Restaurant. 4980 Belt Line. Addison. 387-2333.

Tasty China. 3514-A W. Walnut. Garland. 276-1999. Inexpensive.

Texas Jade. 3227 McKinney Ave. 871-8898. Moderate.

Tong’s. 11661 Preston. Suite 143. 361-6588. Moderate.

Tong’s House. 1910 Promenade Center. Richardson. 231-8858. Moderate.

Uncle Tai’s. 13350 Dallas Pkwy.. in the Galleria. 934-9998. Expensive.



ETHIOPIAN

Dallul. 2515 lnwood. 353-0604. Inexpensive to moderate.

River Nile. 7001 Fair Oaks 363-1128. Inexpensive to moderate.



FRENCH/CONTINENTAL

Addison Cafe. 5290 Bell Line. Addison. 991-8824. Moderate to expensive.

Chez Gerard. 4444 McKinney Ave. 522-6865. Moderate to expensive.

Clair de Lune. 5934 Royal Lane. Suite 120. 987-2028. Moderate to expensive.

Epicure Highland Park. 69 Highland Park Village, Preston at Mockingbird. 520-8501. Moderate to expensive.

Ernie’s. 5100 Belt Line. Suite 502. 233-8855. Moderate to expensive.

Ewald’s. Stoneleigh Hotel, 2927 Maple. 871-2523. Expensive.

The French Room. The Adolphus Hotel. 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Expensive.

The Grape. 2808 Greenville Ave. 828-1981. Moderate.

La Madeleine. 3072 W. Mockingbird. 696-0800. 3906 Lemmon Ave. 521-0182. NorthPark Mall. 696-2398. Inexpensive.

L’Ancestral. 4514 Travis 528-1081. Moderate.

Le Brussels. 6615 Snider Plaza. 739-1927. Moderate.

L’Entrecote. Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200 Very expensive.

Les Saisons. 165 Turtle Creek Village. 528-1102. Expensive.

The Old Warsaw. 2610 Maple. 528-0032. Very expensive.

Pierre’s By The Lake. 3430 Shorecrest. 358-2379. Moderate to expensive.

The Riviera. 7709 Inwood. 351-0094. Very expensive.

St. Martin s. 3020 Greenville Ave. 826-0940. Moderate to expensive.

Watel’s. 1923 McKinney Ave. 720-0323. Moderate to expensive.

York St. 6047 Lewis. 826-0968. Moderate to expensive.



GERMAN/EASTERN EUROPEAN



Belvedere. 4242 Lomo Alto. 528-6510. Expensive.

Bohemia. 2810 N. Henderson. 826-6209. Moderate.

Cafe Athenee. 5365 Spring Valley at Montfort, Suite 150. 239-8060. Moderate.

The Chimney. 9739 N. Central Expwy. 369-6466. Expensive.

Franki’s Li’l Europe. 362 Casa Linda Plaza. Garland Road at Buckner. 320-0426. 2515 McKinney Ave., Suite 150. 953-0426. Inexpensive to moderate.

Hofstetter’s. Plaza at Bachman Creek. 3840 W. Northwest Hwy.. Suite 400. 358-7660. Inexpensive to moderate.

Kuby’s Sausage House Inc. 6601 Snider Plaza. 363-2231. 3121 Ross. 821-3121. Inexpensive.



GREEK



Athens Cafe. 5290 Belt Line. Suite 118. Addison. 991-9185. Inexpensive to moderate.

Augustus. 15375 Addison Road, Addison. 239-8105. Ex-pensive.

Goldfinger. 2905 Webb Chapel Extension. 350-6983. Moderate to expensive.

Greek Bistro. 2014 Greenville Ave. 826-8989. Inexpensive to moderate.

Kostas Cafe. 4914 Greenville Ave. 987-3225. lnexpensive.

Little Gus’. 1916 Greenville Ave. 8264910. Inexpensive.

Theodore’s Seafood Restaurant. The Corner Shopping Center. 8041 Walnut Hill, Suite 810. 361-1922. Moderate to expensive.



HOME COOKING



Bishop Arts Cafe. 316 W. Seventh St. 943-3565. Inex-

The Blue Onion Restaurant. 221 W. Parker Road, Suite 527. Piano. 424-2114. Inexpensive.

Celebration. 4503 W. Lovers Lane. 351-5681. Moderate.

Chubby’s. 11333 E. Northwest Hwy. 348-6065.

Farmer’s Grill. 4015 Lemmon Ave. 521-2281. Inexpensive.

Fox Hunt Pub & Grill. Manor House. 1222 Commerce at Field. 748-6686 Inexpensive to moderate.

Gennie’s Bishop Grille. 321 N. Bishop. 946-1752. Inexpensive.

Highland Park Cafeteria. 4611 Cole at Knox. 526-3801. 300 Casa Linda Plaza at Garland Road. 327-3663. Lincoln Plaza, Second Floor, 500 N. Akard. 740-2400. Inexpensive.

Highland Park Pharmacy. 3229 Knox. 521-2126, Inexpensive.

Mama’s Daughter’s Diner. 2014 Irving Blvd. 742-8646. Inexpensive.

The Mecca. 10422 Harry Hines. 352-0051, Inexpensive.

Roscoe’s Easy Way. 5420 Lemmon Ave. 528-8459. Inexpensive.

Rosemarie’s. 1411 N. Zang. 946-4142. Inexpensive.

Theo’s Diner. Ill S. Hall. 747-6936. Inexpensive.

Tolbert’s. One Dallas Center, 350 N. St. Paul & Bryan. 953-1353. 1800 N. Market. 969-0310. Inexpensive.

Vice Versa. 6065 Sherry Lane. 691-2976. Inexpensive.



INDIAN

Akbar. 2115 Promenade Center, Richardson. 235-0260. Inexpensive (lunch) to moderate (dinner).

Ashoka Indian Cuisine. 5409 Belt Line. Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center. 960-0070. Moderate.

India Palace Restaurant. 12817 Preston, Suite 105. 392-0190. Moderate to expensive.

Kebab-N-Kurry. 401 N. Central Expwy., Suite 300, Richardson. 231-5556. Inexpensive to moderate.

Kebab-N-Kurry. 2620 Walnut Hill. 350-6466. Inexpensive.

Sagar. 1492 W. Spring Valley. Richardson. 644-3577. Inexpensive to moderate.

Shalimar. 35 Richardson Heights Village. Central at Belt Line, Richardson. 437-2858. Inexpensive.

Taj Mahal Indian Restaurant. Caruth Plaza, 9100 N. Central Expwy.. Suite 179. 692-0535. Moderate.



ITALIAN

Acapella Cafe. 2508 Maple. 871-2262. Moderate.

Alessio’s. 4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585. Moderate to expensive.

Aurelio’s. 2935 Elm St. 749-0208. Inexpensive to moderale.

Cafe ltalia. 2720 Stemmons Frwy. 521-0700. Inexpensive to moderate.

Caffe Paparazzi. 8989 Forest Lane, Suite 136. 644-1323. Moderate.

Capriccio. 2616 Maple. 871-2004. Expensive.

Chianti Restaurant and Pizzeria. 9526 Webb Chapel. 350-7456. Inexpensive.

Fausto’s Oven. 300 Reunion Blvd., in the Hyatt Regency Hotel. 651-1234. Moderate.

Ferrari’s. 703 McKinney Ave., in The Brewery. 954-1112. Moderate to expensive.

Flip’s Wine Bar & Trattoria. 1520 Greenville Ave. 824-9944. Moderate.

Joey Tomato’s Atlantic City. 3232 McKinney Ave. 754-0380. Inexpensive to moderate.

La Tosca. 7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Expensive.

La Trattoria Lombardi’s. 2916 N. Hall. 954-0803. Moderate.

Lombardi’s at Travis Walk. 4514 Travis Walk. 521-1480. Moderate.

Lombardi’s Expresso. 6135 Luther Lane. 361-6984. Inexpensive to moderate.

Massimo da Milano. 5519 W. Lovers Lane. 351-1426. 2121 San Jacinto. 871-0400. 901 Main Place in the NCNB Building. 761-6350. Inexpensive to moderate.

MoMo’s Italian Specialties. 9191 Forest Lane. Suite A2. 234-6800. 2704 Elm St. 7484222. 3309 N. Central Expwy.. Suite 37. Piano. 423-1066. Moderate.

MoMo’s Pasta. 3312 Knox. 521-3009. Inexpensive

Nero’s Italian. 2104 Greenville Ave. 826-6376. Moderate.

Pasticcio’s. 4527 Travis. 528-6696. Moderate.

Patrizio. 25 Highland Park Village. 522-7878. Inexpensive to moderate.

Piccola Cucina. 1030 NorthPark Center. Suite 330. 691-0488. Moderate.

Pizzeria Uno. 2811 McKinney Ave. 855-0011. 4002 Bell Line, Addison. 991-8181. Inexpensive to moderate.

Ristorante Savino. 2929 N. Henderson. 826-7804. Moderate to expensive.

Romano’s Macaroni Grill. 4535 Belt Line. Addison. 386-3831. Moderate.

Ruggeri’s. 2911 Routh St. 871-7377. Moderate.

Scuro. 2713 Elm St. 741-0111. Inexpensive to moderate.

Sfuzzi. 2504 McKinney Ave. 871-2606. Moderate.

311 Lombardi’s. 311 Market at Ross. 747-0322. Moderate to expensive.



JAPANESE

Fuji-Ya. 13050 Coit. 690-8396. Inexpensive to moderate.

Hana Japanese Restaurant. 14865 Inwood. 991-8322. Moderate.

Hibachi-Ya Japanese Steak House. 3850 W. Northwest Hwy.. Suite 510. 350-1110. Inexpensive.

Mr. Sushi. 4860 Bell Line. Addison. 385-0168. Moderate.

Nakamoto Japanese Cuisine, Ruisseau Village. Suite 360. 3309 N. Central Expwy., Piano. 881-0328. Moderate.

Sakura Japanese Restaurant. 7402 Greenville Ave., Suite 101. 361-9282. Moderate to expensive.

Shinano Japanese Restaurant. 8830 Spring Valley. 644-1436. Moderate.



KOREAN

Kobawoo. 3109 Inwood. 351-6922. Moderate.

Koreana. Highpoint Village.

12101 Greenville Ave., #107. 437-1211. Inexpensive to moderate.



MEDITERRANEAN

Adelmo’s. 4537 Cole. 559-0325. Moderate to expensive.

Monte Carlo. 15201 Dallas Pkwy.. in the Grand Kempin-ski Dallas Hotel. 386-6000. Expensive.

Scampi’s. 2704 Worthington. 220-2115. Moderate to expensive.



MEXICAN

Anita’s Mexican Cantina. 7324 Gascon. #319. 328-9639. Inexpensive.

Blue Goose Cantina. 2905 Greenville Ave. 823-6786. Moderate.

Cantina Laredo. 4546 Belt Line, Addison. 458-0962. 8121 Walnut Hill. 987-9192. Moderate.

Casa Dominguez. 2127 Cedar Springs. 742-4945. Inexpensive to moderate.

Chuy’s. 211 N. Record. 747-2838. Moderate.

El Asadero. 1516 Greenville Ave. 826-0625. Inexpensive to moderate.

El Ranchito. 610 W. Jefferson. 946-4238. Inexpensive to Moderate.

Flamingo Joe’s. 2712 Main at Crowdus. 748-6065. Inexpensive to moderate.

Grandpa Tony’s. 3130 W. Mockingbird. 357-1531. Inexpensive.

Javier’s. 4912 Cote. 521-4211. Expensive.

La Calle Doce. 415 W. 12th. 941-4304. Inexpensive to moderate.

Las Cazuelas. 4933 Columbia. 827-1889. Inexpensive.

La Suprema Tortilleria. 7630 Military Pkwy. (at Loop 12). 388-1244. Inexpensive.

Los Arcos. 3308 Ross. 826-5020. Moderate.

Mario & Alberto. LBJ Frwy., at Preston. Suite 425. 980-7296. Moderate.

Mario’s Chiquita. 4514 Travis. Suite 105. 521-0721. 221 W. Parker, Suite 400. Piano. 423-2977. Moderate.

The Martinez Cafe. 1900 Preston (Preston Park Village), Piano. 964-7898. Inexpensive.

Matt’s Rancho Martinez Mexican Restaurant. 6312 La Vista. 823-5517. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mercado Juarez. 1901 W. Northwest Hwy. 556-0796. 4050 Belt Line, Addison. 458-2145. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mia’s. 4322 Lemmon Ave. 526-1020. Inexpensive.

Mi Casa Tex Mex Restaurant. 8301 Westchester. 890-9939. Inexpensive to moderate.

Primo’s. 3309 McKinney Ave 520-3303. Inexpensive.

Uncle Julio’s. 7557 Greenville Ave. 987-9900 4125 Lemmon Ave. 520-6620. Moderate.

ZuZu. 6423 Hillcrest. 521-4456. 5940 Royal Lane. 739-1312. 3100 Independence Pkwy,. Piano. 596-6744. Inexpensive.



MIDDLE EASTERN



Hedary’s Lebanese Restaurant. Promenade Center, 15400 Coit, Suite 2500. Richardson. 669-2112. Moderate.



NATURAL



Bluebonnet Cafe & Deli. 2218 Greenville Ave. 828-0052. Inexpensive.

Dream Cafe. 2800 Routh St., Suite 170. in the Quadrangle. 954-0486. Inexpensive.



NEW AMERICAN



Aransas Pass. 2912 N. Henderson. 827-8650. Moderate

Aristocrat Hotel Bar A Grill. 1933 Main. 741-7700. Moderate to expensive.

Beau Nash. 400 Crescent Court in the Hotel Crescent Court. 871-3200. Expensive.

Bravo. 2621 McKinney. 871-2786. Moderate.

The Bronx. 3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Inexpensive to moderate.

The Buffalo Club. 2723 Elm St. 748-2400. Moderate to expensive.

By George! 2900 Greenville Ave. 821-1538. Moderate.

Chaplin’s. 1928 Greenville Ave. 823-3300. Moderate to expensive.

City Cafe. 5757 W. Lovers Lane. 351-2233. Moderate.

The Conservatory- Hotel Crescent Court. 400 Crescent Court. 871-3242. Very expensive.

Dakota’s. 600 N. Akard. 740-4001. Moderate to expensive.

Deep Ellum Cafe. 2706 Elm St. 741-9012. Moderate to expensive.

Dover’s Grille. Doubletree Hotel at Park West. 1590 LBJ Frwy. 869-4300. Moderate to expensive.

Gershwin’s. 8442 Walnut Hill at Greenville Ave. 373-7171. Moderate to expensive.

Huntington’s. Westin Hotel. Galleria, 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 851-2882. Expensive.

Kathleen’s Art Cafe. 4424 Lovers Lane. 691-2355. Moderate to expensive.

Landmark Cafe. Omni Melrose Hotel, 3015 Oak Lawn. 522-1453. Expensive.

Laurels. Sheraton Park Central Hotel. 12720 Merit Drive, off Coit near LBJ Frwy. 385-3000. Expensive.

The Mansion on Turtle Creek. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Very expensive.

Malibu Cafe. 4311 Oak Lawn. 521-2233. Moderate.

Parigi. 3311 Oak Lawn. 521-0295. Moderate to expensive.

The Promenade. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 559-2100. Moderate to expensive.

The Pyramid Room. 1717 N. Akard in the Fairmont Hotel. 720-5249. Very expensive.

Quadrangle Grille. 2800 Routh St.. Suite 180. in the Quadrangle. 979-9022. Moderate.

Routh Street Cafe. 3005 Routh St. 871-7161. Very expensive.



SEAFOOD



Atlantic Cafe Tool 14866 Montfort. Addison 960-2233. Moderate to expensive.

Aw Shucks. 3601 Greenville Ave. 821-9449. Inexpensive.

Cafe America. 4546 McKinney Ave. at Knox 559-4441. Expensive.

Cafe Pacific. 24 Highland Park Village. Preston at Mockingbird. 526-1170. Expensive.

Dinger’s Catfish Cafe. 8989 Forest Lane. 235-3251. Inexpensive.

Fishmonger’s Seafood Market and Cafe. 1915 N. Central Expwy, at Chisholm, Suite 600, Piano. 423-3699. Moderate.

Hampton’s. Preston Center. 8411 Preston. Berkshire Court. 739-3474. Moderate.

Jozef’s Seafood Restaurant. 2719 McKinney Ave. 954-0407. Moderate to expensive.

Maine Street. 6348 Gaston. 826-8264. Inexpensive to expensive.

Newport’s Seafood. 703 McKinney Ave. in the Brewery. 954-0220. Expensive.

Oyster’s. 4580 Belt Line. Addison. 386-0122 or 3874231. Inexpensive to moderate.

Rusty Pelican. 14655 N. Dallas Pkwy. 980-8950. Expensive.

S&D Oyster Company. 2701 McKinney Ave. 880-0111. Inexpensive to moderate.

Yoll’s. 9220 Skillman. Suite 124. 341-3533. Inexpensive.



SOUTHWESTERN

Baby Routh. 2708 Routh St. 871-2345. Moderate to expensive.

Blue Mesa Grill. 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy. in Sakowitz Village. Suite 500. Addison. 934-0165. Inexpensive to moderate.

Brazos. 2100 Greenville Ave., at Prospect. 821-6501. Moderate to expensive.

Loma Luna Cafe. 4131 Lomo Alto. 559-4011. 8201 Preston. Suite 100 (at Sherry Lane). 691-1552. Moderate.

Sam’s Cafe. 100 Crescent Court, Suite 140. 855-2233. Moderate to expensive.

Zuma. 2701 Stemmons Frwy. 631-3050. Moderate.

SPANISH

The White Swan. 2307 Abrams. 824-8122. Moderate.



STEAKS

Arthur’s. 8350 N. Central Expwy.. Campbell Centre, Suite M 1000. 361-8833. Expensive.

The Butcher Shop Steak house. 808 Munger. off Lamar. 720-1032. Moderate.

Del Frisco’s Double Eagle. 4300 Lemmon Ave. 526-9811. Expensive.

Lawry’s The Prime Rib. 3008 Maple. 521-7777. Moderate to expensive.

Palm Restaurant. 701 Ross. 698-0470 Very expensive.

Ruth’s Chris Steak House. 5922 Cedar Springs. 902-8080. Expensive.

Wellington. 2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Expensive.



TAKEOUT/DELI

Al’s New York Style Deli. 3301 Oak Lawn. Suite A (entrance on Hall). 522-3354. inexpensive.

Bagel Emporium. 7522 Campbell. 248-0608. Inexpensive.

Bagelstein’s. Northwood Hills Shopping Center. 8104 Spring Valley. 234-3787. Inexpensive to moderate.

City Cafe To Go. 5757 W. Lovers Lane. 351-3366. Moderate.

City Market. 2001 Ross. Trammell Crow Center. Suite 200. 979-2696. Inexpensive.

Crescent Gourmet. 400 Crescent Court. 871-3223. Inexpensive to moderate.

Dell News. 15775 Hillcrest. Suite 502. 392-3354. Inexpensive.

Marty’s. 3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070. Moderate.

Pat’s Park Cities. 6617 Snider Plaza. 363-7797. Inexpensive.

Polio Bueno. 3438 Samuell Blvd. 828-0645. Inexpensive.

Tommaso’s Fresh Pasta. 5365 Spring Valley, Suite 158. at Montfort 99l-4040. Inexpensive to moderate.



THAI



New Slam. 2415 Willowbrook, Suite 108 (at NorthwestHwy. and Harry Hines). 358-5679. Inexpensive to moderate.

Sala Thai. 4503 Greenville Ave. 696-3210. Moderate.

Thai Cuisine. 1915 Central Expwy, (off Park). Piano. 422-5219. Moderate.

Thai Lanna. 1490 W. Spring Valley. Richardson. 690-3637. 4315 Bryan. 827-6478. Moderate.

That Nipa. 4315 Lemmon Ave. 526-6179. Inexpensive

Thai Soon. 2018 Greenville Ave. 821-7666. Inexpensive.

Thai Taste, 4501 Cole. 521-3513. Moderate.

Thai Toy’s. 4422-B Lemmon Ave. 528-7233- Inexpensiveto moderatge.



VIETNAMESE



Arc-en Ciel. 3555 W. Walnut. Garland. 272-2188. Inexpensive In moderate.

Cafe de Saigon. 5617 Lovers Lane. 350-8767. Moderate.

East Wind. 2711 Elm St. 745-5554. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mai’s Cuisine. 4814 Greenville Ave. 739-5424. Inexpensive.

Saigon. 1731 Greenville Ave. 828-9795. Inexpensive.



LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES



Bistro Bagatelle. (French) 406 W. Abrams, Arlington. Metro 817-261-0488. Moderate io expensive.

Cacharel. (French) Brookhollow Two, 2221 E. Lamar. Suite 900. Arlington. Metro 817-640-9981. Moderate.

China Terrace. (Chinese) 5435 N. MacArthur. Irving. 550-1113. Inexpensive to moderate.

Esparza’s. (Mexican) 124 E. Worth St., Grapevine. Metro 817-481-4668. Inexpensive.

Caspar’s. (New American) 150 S. Demon Tap Road, Coppell. 393-5152. Moderate.

Jinbeh. (Japanese) 301 E. Las Colinas Blvd., Suite 301. Irving. 869-4011. Moderate.

La Margarita. (Mexican) 3636 N. Belt Line. Irving. 570-1137. Inexpensive to moderate.

Shusmi. (Indian) 359 N. E. Green Oaks. Arlington. (817)860-8728. Moderate.

Tandoor. (Indian) 532 Fielder North Plaza, Arlington.Metro 817-261-6604. Moderate.

Via Real. (Mexican) 4020 N. MacArthur, Irving. 255-0064. Moderate to expensive.



PORT WORTH



Benito’s. (Mexican) 1450W. Magnolia. (817) 332-8633. Inexpensive.

Cafe Aspen. (New American) 3416 W. Seventh. (817) 877-0838. Moderate to expensive.

Ciao. (Italian) 2455 Forest Park Blvd. (817) 924-2426. Inexpensive to moderate.

Kincaid’s Grocery. (Burgers) 4901 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817)732-2881. Inexpensive.

Hedary’s. (Lebanese) 3308 FairfieId at Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-6961. Moderate.

Jon’s Grille. (Burgers) 3009 S. University. (817) 923-1909. Inexpensive.

Juanita’s. (Mexican) 115 W. Second. (817) 335-1777. Moderate.

Le Chardonnay. (French) 2443 Forest Park Blvd. (817) 926-5622. Moderate to expensive.

Papi’s. (Puerto Rican) 2239 N. Main. (817) 625-4413. Inexpensive.

Reflections. (New American) The Worthingtor Hotel, 200 Main. (817) 870-1000. Expensive.

Saint Emilion. (French) 3617 W. Seventh. (817) 737-2781. Moderate to expensive.

Seterry’s. (French) 4930 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 763-8787. Expensive.

Tejano Mexican Cuisine. (Mexican) 5716 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 737-7201. Inexpensive to moderate.

Tours Restaurant. (New American) 3500 W. Seventh. (817) 870-1672. Moderate to expensive.

Tuscany. (Italian) 4255 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 737-2971. Moderate to expensive.

Water Street Seafood. (Seafood) 1450 S. University Drive. (817) 877-3474. Moderate.



NIGHTLIFE

Angry Dog. 2726 Commerce. 741-4406.

The Art Bar. 2803 Main. 939-0077.

Arthur’s. Campbell Centre, 8350 N. Central Expwy. 361-8833.

Club Clearview; 2806 Elm St. 939-0006.

Club Dada. 2720 Elm St.. at Crowdus. 744-3232.

Dave & Buster’s. 10727 Composite, near Walnut Hill at Stemmons Frwy. 353-0649. 8021 Walnut Hill (at North Central Expwy. ). 361-5553.

Dave’s Art Pawn Shop. 2544 Elm St. 748-7111.

Dick’s Last Resort. Corner of Record and Ross. 747-0001.

Exodus. 210 N. Crowdus. 748-7871.

Froggy Bottoms. Part of Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace. 2019 N. Lamar. 988-0581.

Gator’s Croc & Roc. 1714 N. Market. 748-0243.

Greenville Bar & Grill. 2821 Greenville Ave. 823-6691.

Industry. 2920 Canton. 748-9300.

Infinity. 70. 1 McKinney Ave. 720-1300.

Improv Comedy Club and Restaurant. 9810 N. Central Expwy.. Suite 600 (in The Corner Shopping Center). 750-5868- 4980 Belt Line at Quorum. Suite 250, Addison. 404-8503.

Joe Miller’s. 3531 McKinney Ave. 521-2261.

Knox Street Pub. 3230 Knox. 526-9476.

The Library Bar. Omni Melrose Hotel. 3015 Oak Lawn. 521-5151.

The Lion’s Den. Stoneleigh Hotel. 2927 Maple. 871-7111.

Louie’s. 1839 N Henderson. 826-0505.

The Lounge. 5460 W. Lovers Lane. 350-7834.

Netwerk. 5500 Greenville Ave.. Suite 403. 361-9517.

Memphis. Quorum Plaza. 5000 Bell Line, Suite 500. 386-9934.

Miio Butterfinger’s. 5645 Yale. 368-9212.

Mimi’s. 5111 Greenville Ave. 368-1994.

Mucky Duck. 3102 Welborn. 522-7200.

The Outback Pub. 1701 N. Market. 761-9355.

Poor David’s Pub. 1924 Greenville Ave. 821-9891.

The Rhythm Room. 5627 Dyer. 890-0944.

The Safari Bar. 10825 Composite. 351-3262.

Stan’s Blue Note. 2908 Greenville Ave. 824-9653.

State. 3611 Parry. 821-9246.

Stoneleigh P. 2926 Maple. 871-2346.

Studebaker’s. NorthPark East. 8788 N. Central Expwy. 696-2475.

Take Five. Dallas Alley in the West End MarketPlace, 2019 N. Lamar. 988-0581.

Trees. 2709 Elm St. 748-5009.

2826. 2826 Elm St. 741-2826.

Video Bar. 2610 Elm St. 939-9113.

White Rock Yacht Club. 7324 Gaston, Suite 301. 328-3866.